Root Lock Out

[Aweedtec]

Ok,
The reason I am making this post is because there is no post like it anywhere AGAIN.

My issue is this(not that I have an issue per say).... I have recently read many articles on fertilizers and what is in them. You can get a lot of different fertilizers specifically made for Cannabis. Problem is, none of them have the same nutrients.
I have a strain that has constantly yellowed and even though it was loaded with Worm Castings and now Wiggle Worm was placed on top of the soil it is still yellowing. The entire plant. Same strain I have written about before.
I have given it Bud doublin but stupidly Bud doublin has TWO different schedules. One on the bottle and one you can find online. They differ greatly on how much to give the plant. And nowhere does it tell you per container size. So you have to assume.

I only bring up Bud Doublin because it is the one I am currently using. But I am going to give my plants some of the Dr Earth and also have some Gia Green coming in.

When I read things like "If you have too much of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up Nitrogen." Or, "If your plant has to little of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up such and such nutrient and if it has too much of such and such nutrient it wont pick up such and such nutrient." WHAT DA FUQ? How can that happen if these companies are taylor making products for your plants to thrive? The ONLY thing I add is worm castings and or cal mag occasionally if I see a calcium deficiency or magnesium deficiency. Which by the way... is rare and most times the plant looks like its doing two contradictory things. Which makes me throw my hands up and say die if you must fker.

I mean, What in the hell causes plants to do mostly fine outside in the ground? Are the roots able to just keep stretching for however long it takes to find nutrients? And how is it that they never seem to create a plant that yellows outside in the ground? At least I have never saw it from the little I have messed around with. The worst issue I have seen from people growing outside is small yields. But the plant looks healthy. Even with people who have no clue what theyare doing... like me!

This issue is a big deal and causes me occasionally to have to flush plants. I am tired of that happening.

So is it as simple as a "Hey dummy, stop using those nutes you use and get something else?" Because tried that.
Everything is fine until the flower cycle. Then the issues come. You can not follow a nutrient schedule if you can not water your plant every two days or so and can only water the plant once a week to once every week and a half.


At this moment I am considering putting some 4-4-4 All Purpose Dr Earth nutes on my plants that are starting to bloom because I dont think the nitrogen I put on top is activated as of yet because we only poured a 1/4 bottle of water through them since they came in from Amazon, OF COURSE, after I watered the plants that only get water once a week or so. But I had JUST watered them when it came in so I put a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of wiggle worm on top and the bag called for an INCH of wiggle worm. Maybe I should have did what the bag stated because We did flush 10 gallons through the plants when we brought them down off the roof when they were having issues.

So now I am at the place where I am thinking, "Its missing some nutes or doesn't have enough" OR, "Its locked out from having too much of something or too little of something." But when its evenly yellowing(which this damn strain does this every time to varying degrees) knowing what it needs is a crap shoot. In fact, Its all a crap shoot it seems to me.

I have had people here tell me nobody can help me because I am not using fertilizer they know about. Well, the numbers you know about. NPK you know about. And thier rates of application. I cant even follow the rates of application because on nute day the plant has only been watered on the last nute day. A week prior. SO I have to stretch out Nutes. This can not be a good thing.

 

[013]

never heard of root lock out but that’s ok too.

dude forget you ever heard about flushing….it’s not helping anything. Generally speaking there is no reason to flush, but you take it upon yourself to do this extra step. I’m dirt guy and have never really needed to flush anything other than the crapper.

A real biggie is the do it yourself buckets, you do not have nearly enough drainage & air holes. Yep I see the extra ones drilled on the sides too. Flip a 5 gallon bucket, see the rim on the bottom?. Right now zero air gets to the center unless your buckets are placed up on a grate…which they aren’t… Put it on a grate and get a fan moving air under there… look at the drainage holes on some real nursery pots, Get a bigger drill bit and go big or go home… lack of oxygen to the root zone is the issue. It’s why your containers are not drying out. So drill baby drill or just buy cloth pots. This changes your wet dry cycle to force it to move faster.

The reason we steer peeps towards cannabis specific nutes is that most follow a pattern like 2 part solution such as A + B with cal mag as an add on. They are a known quantity whereas don’t think many have heard of Bud Dublin.

There’s molders chart of antagonism… it’s over my head but here’s the deal, you went hard on casting and that’s ok but castings alone does not solve all of the NPK cal mag puzzle…castings gets you N & calcium but where’s the extra P & K and mag? NPK cal and mag are all intertwined and yep too much or too little of one can bump into another.

For now I’d stick with a known entity like the Gaia Green, but I’d suggest moving to Geoflora organic dry mix if you can get it.. there’s 2 bags a veg formula and a flower formula… weed needs high N but lower PK for veg but for flower cycle weed needs some N but more PK… this is why we advocate cannabis specific nutes… the ratios are different

Forget about outdoors or your buddies plants… let’s get you fixed up and heck with the others. For your current grow maybe just mag alone (epsoms) since mag helps unlock chlorophyll which greens up the plant… any way you slice it yellow leaves tell us the plant is hungry the answer is to bump nutes for that stage of growth Veg nutes for a vegging plant- flower nutes for a flowering plant .. also once you hit flower it’s ok to water more frequently..

you will do just fine in the long run.. hang in there!!!

 

[Bill284]

Ok,
The reason I am making this post is because there is no post like it anywhere AGAIN.

My issue is this(not that I have an issue per say).... I have recently read many articles on fertilizers and what is in them. You can get a lot of different fertilizers specifically made for Cannabis. Problem is, none of them have the same nutrients.
I have a strain that has constantly yellowed and even though it was loaded with Worm Castings and now Wiggle Worm was placed on top of the soil it is still yellowing. The entire plant. Same strain I have written about before.
I have given it Bud doublin but stupidly Bud doublin has TWO different schedules. One on the bottle and one you can find online. They differ greatly on how much to give the plant. And nowhere does it tell you per container size. So you have to assume.

I only bring up Bud Doublin because it is the one I am currently using. But I am going to give my plants some of the Dr Earth and also have some Gia Green coming in.

When I read things like "If you have too much of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up Nitrogen." Or, "If your plant has to little of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up such and such nutrient and if it has too much of such and such nutrient it wont pick up such and such nutrient." WHAT DA FUQ? How can that happen if these companies are taylor making products for your plants to thrive? The ONLY thing I add is worm castings and or cal mag occasionally if I see a calcium deficiency or magnesium deficiency. Which by the way... is rare and most times the plant looks like its doing two contradictory things. Which makes me throw my hands up and say die if you must fker.

I mean, What in the hell causes plants to do mostly fine outside in the ground? Are the roots able to just keep stretching for however long it takes to find nutrients? And how is it that they never seem to create a plant that yellows outside in the ground? At least I have never saw it from the little I have messed around with. The worst issue I have seen from people growing outside is small yields. But the plant looks healthy. Even with people who have no clue what theyare doing... like me!

This issue is a big deal and causes me occasionally to have to flush plants. I am tired of that happening.

So is it as simple as a "Hey dummy, stop using those nutes you use and get something else?" Because tried that.
Everything is fine until the flower cycle. Then the issues come. You can not follow a nutrient schedule if you can not water your plant every two days or so and can only water the plant once a week to once every week and a half.


At this moment I am considering putting some 4-4-4 All Purpose Dr Earth nutes on my plants that are starting to bloom because I dont think the nitrogen I put on top is activated as of yet because we only poured a 1/4 bottle of water through them since they came in from Amazon, OF COURSE, after I watered the plants that only get water once a week or so. But I had JUST watered them when it came in so I put a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of wiggle worm on top and the bag called for an INCH of wiggle worm. Maybe I should have did what the bag stated because We did flush 10 gallons through the plants when we brought them down off the roof when they were having issues.

So now I am at the place where I am thinking, "Its missing some nutes or doesn't have enough" OR, "Its locked out from having too much of something or too little of something." But when its evenly yellowing(which this damn strain does this every time to varying degrees) knowing what it needs is a crap shoot. In fact, Its all a crap shoot it seems to me.

I have had people here tell me nobody can help me because I am not using fertilizer they know about. Well, the numbers you know about. NPK you know about. And thier rates of application. I cant even follow the rates of application because on nute day the plant has only been watered on the last nute day. A week prior. SO I have to stretch out Nutes. This can not be a good thing.

Sorry about your issues my friend.
Have you ever tried coco?
Simple to use and promotes rapid growth.
I never have deficiency or nutrition issues.
It's fast fun and freeken easy, seriously no deficiency headaches.
If you can find time to feed daily you will love it.
Just 2 cents.
Take care.


Stay safe
Bill284

 

[Aweedtec]

Sorry about your issues my friend.
Have you ever tried coco?
Simple to use and promotes rapid growth.
I never have deficiency or nutrition issues.
It's fast fun and freeken easy, seriously no deficiency headaches.
If you can find time to feed daily you will love it.
Just 2 cents.
Take care.


Stay safe
Bill284

My roommate just bought a big bag of coco.

I used organic pro mix 50 percent and promix Bx 50 percent and I used the perlite layers. Like you suggested and as far as compaction of roots...not happening.

But I read an article that talked about roots not being able to pick up certain nutrients if it has too much of a certain nutrient. I guess I just need to use geoflora. Or something people here know about.
I'm switching between bud doublin and Dr earth. Not really switching between them but sort of using both. Just low dosing when they look dark. But this one strain I have...I wish I could send you a few seeds to grow this strain. I am so curious what you can do with it. The colas are always huge. But the plant is always yellowy.

Good to see you Bill!

 

[seaofgreen18]

Ok,
The reason I am making this post is because there is no post like it anywhere AGAIN.

My issue is this(not that I have an issue per say).... I have recently read many articles on fertilizers and what is in them. You can get a lot of different fertilizers specifically made for Cannabis. Problem is, none of them have the same nutrients.
I have a strain that has constantly yellowed and even though it was loaded with Worm Castings and now Wiggle Worm was placed on top of the soil it is still yellowing. The entire plant. Same strain I have written about before.
I have given it Bud doublin but stupidly Bud doublin has TWO different schedules. One on the bottle and one you can find online. They differ greatly on how much to give the plant. And nowhere does it tell you per container size. So you have to assume.

I only bring up Bud Doublin because it is the one I am currently using. But I am going to give my plants some of the Dr Earth and also have some Gia Green coming in.

When I read things like "If you have too much of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up Nitrogen." Or, "If your plant has to little of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up such and such nutrient and if it has too much of such and such nutrient it wont pick up such and such nutrient." WHAT DA FUQ? How can that happen if these companies are taylor making products for your plants to thrive? The ONLY thing I add is worm castings and or cal mag occasionally if I see a calcium deficiency or magnesium deficiency. Which by the way... is rare and most times the plant looks like its doing two contradictory things. Which makes me throw my hands up and say die if you must fker.

I mean, What in the hell causes plants to do mostly fine outside in the ground? Are the roots able to just keep stretching for however long it takes to find nutrients? And how is it that they never seem to create a plant that yellows outside in the ground? At least I have never saw it from the little I have messed around with. The worst issue I have seen from people growing outside is small yields. But the plant looks healthy. Even with people who have no clue what theyare doing... like me!

This issue is a big deal and causes me occasionally to have to flush plants. I am tired of that happening.

So is it as simple as a "Hey dummy, stop using those nutes you use and get something else?" Because tried that.
Everything is fine until the flower cycle. Then the issues come. You can not follow a nutrient schedule if you can not water your plant every two days or so and can only water the plant once a week to once every week and a half.


At this moment I am considering putting some 4-4-4 All Purpose Dr Earth nutes on my plants that are starting to bloom because I dont think the nitrogen I put on top is activated as of yet because we only poured a 1/4 bottle of water through them since they came in from Amazon, OF COURSE, after I watered the plants that only get water once a week or so. But I had JUST watered them when it came in so I put a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of wiggle worm on top and the bag called for an INCH of wiggle worm. Maybe I should have did what the bag stated because We did flush 10 gallons through the plants when we brought them down off the roof when they were having issues.

So now I am at the place where I am thinking, "Its missing some nutes or doesn't have enough" OR, "Its locked out from having too much of something or too little of something." But when its evenly yellowing(which this damn strain does this every time to varying degrees) knowing what it needs is a crap shoot. In fact, Its all a crap shoot it seems to me.

I have had people here tell me nobody can help me because I am not using fertilizer they know about. Well, the numbers you know about. NPK you know about. And thier rates of application. I cant even follow the rates of application because on nute day the plant has only been watered on the last nute day. A week prior. SO I have to stretch out Nutes. This can not be a good thing.

Good afternoon,if you're calm now, have you ever thought of ph?? That causes lock out as well and it sounds to me as if you might be misdiagnosing the problems you are having its a lot harder than ppl think to properly diagnose weed issues!
Maybe take some time and research a little more about how that all works on nuit lock out and such and as far as the nuitrent companies go, they are in it to make money so take that for what its worth!
But you might want to try checking soil ph and or water ph when mixing your nutrients and only use 1/2 the recommended dose if you're feeding them castings and dry amendment I personally think you are defeating the purpose of adding microbiology and dry organic amendment by putting salt on it!

Hope this helps a little and here's A picture of my Jack Herar in organic soil with proper soil ph and NO salt fertilizer only compost and dry amendment,Good luck my friend

 

[Aweedtec]

Good afternoon,if you're calm now, have you ever thought of ph?? That causes lock out as well and it sounds to me as if you might be misdiagnosing the problems you are having its a lot harder than ppl think to properly diagnose weed issues!
Maybe take some time and research a little more about how that all works on nuit lock out and such and as far as the nuitrent companies go, they are in it to make money so take that for what its worth!
But you might want to try checking soil ph and or water ph when mixing your nutrients and only use 1/2 the recommended dose if you're feeding them castings and dry amendment I personally think you are defeating the purpose of adding microbiology and dry organic amendment by putting salt on it!

Hope this helps a little and here's A picture of my Jack Herar in organic soil with proper soil ph and NO salt fertilizer only compost and dry amendment,Good luck my friend

I change the PH and filter every bit of water my plants get because it comes out at 8.5.

So I get it between a 5.5 and 6.8 with Humboldts secret. I only use the phosphoric acid. Not the base because It takes so little.

I'm not adding nutrients to it to fix it other than cal mag to a plant that for the first time since growing is showing clear calcium deficiency. Usually my plants shoe multiple issues which makes it impossible to tell what's going on.


I am only giving half nutes and even if I used the two systems I only alternated to see if it would make a difference and come to find out in two plants it did.


Part of the issue is even my felt pots stay heavy. Even with layers of perlite between soil. I think it's the coco in the organic pro mix. Its the only difference from my other grows. I watered my last grows a lot. But this grow....even when it's time for nutes it's still too heavy to water. So it throws the schedule off. So I have to water to massive run off if considering I use to water twice between weeks and it would dry out in two days. At some points it takes ten days to dry out and that means the nute schedule has to be adjusted.

I think the issue is clear ....always trying new grow medium makes it very difficult to have a system down that works well.

I was only concerned with one plant out of the many I am growing.

The one in the plastic bucket seems to never dry out but I drilled a shit ton more holes in it and it may be dry by tomorrow . Other than the nutrient burn it got just on the tips of leaves(they turned yellow and curled but never lost their pliability.) I think because it could t handle the worm castings we put in it. But the other plants did and they had the same amout of worm castings in them.

And any plant I grow outside gets eaten alive by leafhoppers and spiders.
So inside is my only way.


What is a salt fertilizer? I think all my fertilizers are super low in salts. Unless I am mistaking what you mean.

Jack herer is my roommates nephews favorite grow.

 

[seaofgreen18]

if you overwater it might be root issues as well as all the nitrogen evaporates off into the atmosphere maybe if you are adding to much compost or worm casting to your mix ,don't use as much and maybe try some pumice or gypsum or crushed oyster shells for aeration and bugs ? have you scoped for bugs? What's your IPM system?

 

[Aweedtec]

if you overwater it might be root issues as well as all the nitrogen evaporates off into the atmosphere maybe if you are adding to much compost or worm casting to your mix ,don't use as much and maybe try some pumice or gypsum or crushed oyster shells for aeration and bugs ? have you scoped for bugs? What's your IPM system?

I used Bills method of layering perlite. There is only three layers though and some perlite in the bottom so water doesn't sit there. Maybe only a half inch each layer though and I made sure to put a good 4 inches of soil on top then 4 inches then 3 inches then 3 inches..with half inches perlite layers between them. It has stopped me from compacting the roots for sure.

But I water to run off and then don't water till its light weight.


As far as pests ..lemon haze auto doesn't get pests for some reason. But I'm sure I'm going to have to let some lady bugs loose for aphids when I make the switch to 12/12 and buds show up on other plants. I had to last time..

I did see a leaf hopper. But they haven't eaten anything yet. And I only saw one inside.

I have a plant outside that I am just taking care of for the neighbor. It's got hoppers all over it. But it's doing great. It dries out much faster than the inside plants.

But also everything gets fungus gnats so I use neem oil in a captain jack spray bottle and mix my own mix with a bit of dawn. 2 tsp neem oil and 1/4 tsp dawn dish soap in 32 ounces. I will spray the whole plant before the light goes out but once it buds I will only spray the bottom third of the plant stems and the soil top. Oh and the felt bags. Those gnats love to hang on the bag too. I only spray ever other day if I see a lot but once its under control once every three or four days

 

[seaofgreen18]

Fungus gnats they are a tenacious little critter its the larvae that causes problems not the adults the adults are the breeders and the nuisance but you got to break the cycle Yellow sticky traps for monitoring and soil flushes to git rid of those so then tell me how do your roots look at ghe end when you pull them outta this pots? Nice and white and crisp to maybe a little golden brown or darker brown to deep brown and mushy ?

 

[seaofgreen18]

The adults can cause issues also so i need to amend the above statement the adults can spread diseases like PM or bud rot just like any other bug 1 oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure!
Ill tell you a story I did hydro, flood and drain for years always struggled in veg NO MATTER what i did and what or who's advice i followed where my ph was or how often or not i fed them I realized it just wasn't my forte!
I got to learn organic gardening and not saying all my problems went away but its working ALOT BETTER for me ,so maybe reconsider the way you garden!
My advice to you is DITCH the salt farming and come to the organic side, its better for you More sustainable (cheaper) , your weed tastes better and it better for the environment
KIS Organics: Organic Gardening Supplies and Soils

 

[Aweedtec]

Fungus gnats they are a tenacious little critter its the larvae that causes problems not the adults the adults are the breeders and the nuisance but you got to break the cycle Yellow sticky traps for monitoring and soil flushes to git rid of those so then tell me how do your roots look at ghe end when you pull them outta this pots? Nice and white and crisp to maybe a little golden brown or darker brown to deep brown and mushy ?

I had one plant they got to really fast and killed the roots right at bloom. I used Peroxide watering's to get it to boost buds and it did. Though they dont smell so good and didnt get very big. lol

But the rest of my plants have had strong roots. One plant that was the most standard Lemon Haze auto I ever saw had no roots running up the sides nor down the bottom. It was all just a root ball under the plant about double the size of a softball and then roots running through the pot criss crossing with not a bit of roots near the edge or bottom of the pot. And it was a felt pot.

IT was my roommates plant and it grew really nice buds. He didnt follow a water schedule. I thinks he can see what's going on in the pot like a guru. Of course its absurd. But try to tell him that. lol

 

[Aweedtec]

The adults can cause issues also so i need to amend the above statement the adults can spread diseases like PM or bud rot just like any other bug 1 oz of prevention is worth a lb of cure!
Ill tell you a story I did hydro, flood and drain for years always struggled in veg NO MATTER what i did and what or who's advice i followed where my ph was or how often or not i fed them I realized it just wasn't my forte!
I got to learn organic gardening and not saying all my problems went away but its working ALOT BETTER for me ,so maybe reconsider the way you garden!
My advice to you is DITCH the salt farming and come to the organic side, its better for you More sustainable (cheaper) , your weed tastes better and it better for the environment
KIS Organics: Organic Gardening Supplies and Soils

I only use organic stuff. Bud Doublin and Dr Earth are fully organic.
The Promix I use... well, one of them is definitely organic. But the BX? I am not so sure about that one.

 

[bluter]

get a proper line of base nutes and stick with it.

you've got parts of all kinds of garbage and don't have a single complete basic line. jumping around trying to toss a dart at the problem won't fix it with what you have.

without a complete basic nute line there isn't much anyone can help you with.

the reason you can't find an answer is everyone else uses a proper nute line and schedule. bud doublin is a minimum 3 part nute line.

 

[Aweedtec]

get a proper line of base nutes and stick with it.

you've got parts of all kinds of garbage and don't have a single complete basic line. jumping around trying to toss a dart at the problem won't fix it with what you have.

without a complete basic nute line there isn't much anyone can help you with.

the reason you can't find an answer is everyone else uses a proper nute line and schedule. bud doublin is a minimum 3 part nute line.

Now see, I dont know how that makes sense. I am not saying it doesnt. I am saying I dont know how.

If there is a problem, then the fix should be some nutrient its lacking. is that not how all the charts suggest it works?

Or are they wrong? And dont think I am saying you are wrong. I am actually asking.

You are right Bud Doublin IS baseline. But it has micro nutrients as well. But I dont believe it has all of them so that is why I keep tossing in small doses of Dr earth that I know has all of them.


I just checked my roots on the White Truffle + JR14 and they are just sticking out of the sides of the medium hitting the cloth bucket. They are also on top. I dont get how that's possible since I dont water but once a week if that.
And they are ultra white but soft. But the plant looks great.

I have Gia Green coming in within a day. Another nutrient that they said would be here fast and didnt come fast.

And I will switch to GeoFlora since everyone seems to say its good.

 

[seaofgreen18]

Sometimes its to much of a good thing as well lacking of the good thing or an imbalance of the good thing and @bluter has a GOOD POINT!
Its something to take into consideration

 

[Aweedtec]

never heard of root lock out but that’s ok too.

dude forget you ever heard about flushing….it’s not helping anything. Generally speaking there is no reason to flush, but you take it upon yourself to do this extra step. I’m dirt guy and have never really needed to flush anything other than the crapper.

A real biggie is the do it yourself buckets, you do not have nearly enough drainage & air holes. Yep I see the extra ones drilled on the sides too. Flip a 5 gallon bucket, see the rim on the bottom?. Right now zero air gets to the center unless your buckets are placed up on a grate…which they aren’t… Put it on a grate and get a fan moving air under there… look at the drainage holes on some real nursery pots, Get a bigger drill bit and go big or go home… lack of oxygen to the root zone is the issue. It’s why your containers are not drying out. So drill baby drill or just buy cloth pots. This changes your wet dry cycle to force it to move faster.

The reason we steer peeps towards cannabis specific nutes is that most follow a pattern like 2 part solution such as A + B with cal mag as an add on. They are a known quantity whereas don’t think many have heard of Bud Dublin.

There’s molders chart of antagonism… it’s over my head but here’s the deal, you went hard on casting and that’s ok but castings alone does not solve all of the NPK cal mag puzzle…castings gets you N & calcium but where’s the extra P & K and mag? NPK cal and mag are all intertwined and yep too much or too little of one can bump into another.

For now I’d stick with a known entity like the Gaia Green, but I’d suggest moving to Geoflora organic dry mix if you can get it.. there’s 2 bags a veg formula and a flower formula… weed needs high N but lower PK for veg but for flower cycle weed needs some N but more PK… this is why we advocate cannabis specific nutes… the ratios are different

Forget about outdoors or your buddies plants… let’s get you fixed up and heck with the others. For your current grow maybe just mag alone (epsoms) since mag helps unlock chlorophyll which greens up the plant… any way you slice it yellow leaves tell us the plant is hungry the answer is to bump nutes for that stage of growth Veg nutes for a vegging plant- flower nutes for a flowering plant .. also once you hit flower it’s ok to water more frequently..

you will do just fine in the long run.. hang in there!!!

So when my leaves are turning yellow, But a bright yellow with no burn and no browning, this is a lack of mag?
I can get rid of the bud doublin and just use Dr Earth. My only issue was I thought that because it has a 3 of N that maybe it was too much past 14 weeks. Everyone says to look for amber trichs on the plants.

ALSO, last time I was growing I was being told, "a few more weeks" when it appeared to have a lot of trichs and a little amber. I would have harvested but because I was hearing WEEKS I figured maybe I was off on something.
So I waited. And just gave it water. It lost its smell and its been curing for 90 days so far. But to be fair it took 180 days for my pistachio plant(which this plant is half pistachio) to finally stop smelling like Chlorophyll.

 

[seaofgreen18]

So when my leaves are turning yellow, But a bright yellow with no burn and no browning, this is a lack of mag?
I can get rid of the bud doublin and just use Dr Earth. My only issue was I thought that because it has a 3 of N that maybe it was too much past 14 weeks. Everyone says to look for amber trichs on the plants.

ALSO, last time I was growing I was being told, "a few more weeks" when it appeared to have a lot of trichs and a little amber. I would have harvested but because I was hearing WEEKS I figured maybe I was off on something.
So I waited. And just gave it water. It lost its smell and its been curing for 90 days so far. But to be fair it took 180 days for my pistachio plant(which this plant is half pistachio) to finally stop smelling like Chlorophyll.

Alot of things can happen from when you harvest through cure when talking taste,curing is a totally different animal to do it right . I do wet trim and 55%-60% humidity in complete dark @ 65f or close it takes a couple weeks to dry then i final trim it and put it in grove bags or jars and burp the jars intermittent for a few months sometimes herb isn't completely cured for several months for it to taste good!
Harvest time is when you want it i usually harvest when trics are 10 % clear to 90% milky I don't wait for amber and if the lower branches aren't ready i cut what is and leave tge rest on tge plant but amber trics gives me to much of the couch lock effect no matter what strain i like the more working awake herb, that is just what i do

 

[Aweedtec]

Alot of things can happen from when you harvest through cure when talking taste,curing is a totally different animal to do it right . I do wet trim and 55%-60% humidity in complete dark @ 65f or close it takes a couple weeks to dry then i final trim it and put it in grove bags or jars and burp the jars intermittent for a few months sometimes herb isn't completely cured for several months for it to taste good!
Harvest time is when you want it i usually harvest when trics are 10 % clear to 90% milky I don't wait for amber and if the lower branches aren't ready i cut what is and leave tge rest on tge plant but amber trics gives me to much of the couch lock effect no matter what strain i like the more working awake herb, that is just what i do

I have to agree.
I think this cure is going to go another 2 months at least.

 

[SmokingWings]

My issue is this(not that I have an issue per say).... I have recently read many articles on fertilizers and what is in them. You can get a lot of different fertilizers specifically made for Cannabis. Problem is, none of them have the same nutrients.

They all have the same nutrients. You are confusing the source of the nutrient. Nitrogen is Nitrogen and Phosphorous is Phosphorous as an example. It is how each company gets the Nitrogen or the Phosphorous into the fertilizer that is often different.

They differ greatly on how much to give the plant. And nowhere does it tell you per container size. So you have to assume.

If the company says to mix a certain amount of the fertilizer into a specific amount of water then there is no reason to know the size of the contain. Mix according to instructions and water as usual. A small container will need less water than a large container. In the end each container will end up the same ratio of fertilizers no matter the size.

If the instructions are to mix the fertilizer with soil then often it says to mix a specific amount of fertilizer to a certain amount of soil. Example being to mix 10 ml of fertilizer to 4 liters of soil. Measure out how much soil is available and mix in the fertilizer. Try to have more soil available than will be needed and mix according to the instructions. After filling the pots any extra soil can be stored for later when transplanting or if a container needs a bit more several weeks later.

When I read things like "If you have too much of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up Nitrogen." Or, "If your plant has to little of such and such nutrient your plant wont pick up such and such nutrient and if it has too much of such and such nutrient it wont pick up such and such nutrient." WHAT DA FUQ? How can that happen if these companies are taylor making products for your plants to thrive?

You ask: "How can that happen if these companies are taylor making products for your plants to thrive?" Happens a lot because the grower decides that the plants need more of one nutrient and less of another. Before long they have a custom mix of nutrients and more often than not they forget what they added or how much and sometimes they even forget why.

The fertilizer was tailor made for the specific method mentioned on the bottle or bag of fertilizer but the grower decided to change the soil mix or change the amounts.