Reverse osmosis float valve

[silverrocksta]

I currently have a 6 stage r/o system that has a 3.5 gallon tank a tap on it. I have seen the systems hooked up to a 45 gallon drum with a float valve, but don't know what I need or how to hook them up. Could anyone assist me with this. Thanks everyone

 

[silverrocksta]

 

[GreatLife4All]

I have a similar system. My house R/O water is hooked into a 66 gallon storage tank. I then pump from there into my growing system (RDWC).

The biggest problem with hooking an R/O filter up to a tank is the fact that you can destroy the membrane in the R/O system. This membrane is not designed to have a large amount of pressure on one side - and zero pressure on the other side. Repeated use to fill a large reservoir will eventually destroy the membrane in the R/O system.

You can get around this by using a special kit. I looked thru the sponsors and could not find anyone that has this type of float valve. The only one that I know of is available via Amazon. You can do a search for "Aqua FX Auto Shut-off Kit w/ Float valve' on amazon to get an idea of the parts to this system. In addition to the float valve, it includes a backcheck valve and an automatic shutoff valve to protect the system.

It is too complicated to explain how this hooks up - but the kit on Amazon includes instructions and it is fairly easy.

 

[silverrocksta]

Thanks +Rep

 

[silverrocksta]

My system already has an auto shutoff do I need another one

 

[oldman60]

"The biggest problem with hooking an R/O filter up to a tank is the fact that you can destroy the membrane in the R/O system. This membrane is not designed to have a large amount of pressure on one side - and zero pressure on the other side. Repeated use to fill a large reservoir will eventually destroy the membrane in the R/O system."

That hasn't been my experience. I've been using a 6 stage ro system for years and have never had a problem.
All I have done is replace the cartridges when recommended. Hooking a simple float valve after the pressure
tank will not effect the system any more than the shut off valve on ice an machine. If you are in an area that uses
swamp coolers you can use the same float valves they use. If they don't stock them in your area you can order
them online from most any home improvement store. 10-20 bucks

 

[silverrocksta]

So then I should install a float valve on the hose where my tap is now and to let the water run through the 3 gallon tank and then to my barrel?

 

[silverrocksta]

So then I should install a float valve on the hose where my tap is now and to let the water run through the 3 gallon tank and then to my barrel?

 

[silverrocksta]

Sorry bout double post

 

[GreatLife4All]

My information came from the manufacturer.

You are voiding your warranty if you do anything else.

I ran mine for about a month without this installed - with no problems.

So I will not go against your anecdotal evidence - only state that an expert informed me that this is required.

"The biggest problem with hooking an R/O filter up to a tank is the fact that you can destroy the membrane in the R/O system. This membrane is not designed to have a large amount of pressure on one side - and zero pressure on the other side. Repeated use to fill a large reservoir will eventually destroy the membrane in the R/O system."

That hasn't been my experience. I've been using a 6 stage ro system for years and have never had a problem.
All I have done is replace the cartridges when recommended. Hooking a simple float valve after the pressure
tank will not effect the system any more than the shut off valve on ice an machine. If you are in an area that uses
swamp coolers you can use the same float valves they use. If they don't stock them in your area you can order
them online from most any home improvement store. 10-20 bucks

 

[oldman60]

You can believe your "expert" if you want. I looked over the warranty, installation and maintenance
instructions and there was nothing in there about needing to install an automatic shutoff.
It does recommend a check valve to insure there is no back flow, but with my set up running from the
pressure tank to a storage barrel with a float valve to shut it off when full there is no possibility of back flow.


"So then I should install a float valve on the hose where my tap is now and to let the water run through the 3 gallon tank and then to my barrel?"

That is the way mine is.

 

[GreatLife4All]

You can believe your "expert" if you want. I looked over the warranty, installation and maintenance
instructions and there was nothing in there about needing to install an automatic shutoff.

Yes, I will believe the guy who does system installation over some random person on the internet on any given day. Wouldn't you?

Here is the page from my manual... had to find it on the internet and copy / paste:

FACTORS THAT AFFECT THE OPERATION AND THE USEFUL LIFE OF THE MEMBRANE:
There are five main factors that affect a reverse osmosis membrane:
1. PRESSURE: Excessive pressure tends to deform or compact the membrane. The compaction causes the
membrane to become less porous, thus decreasing the amount of product water.
2. HYDROLYSIS: Hydrolysis is the effect of chemicals in the feed water on the membrane. In general, this
happens when the water temperature is high and the pH is below 2.5 or above 7. For optimum life of the
membrane, the pH should be between 5 and 6.
3. BACTERIA: Bacteria, if allowed to grow on the membrane, will digest the top layer of the membrane and
reduce the ability of the membrane to reject salt.
4. TEMPERATURE: Temperatures above 95ºF are generally avoided because of the problems in the
membrane support structures and the accelerated compaction and hydrolysis rates. Membrane production
rates will go up with higher temperatures and down with lower temperatures.
5. SURFACE COATING OR FOULING: Surface Coating or Fouling is one of the most common problems with
reverse osmosis. It is the salts (calcium carbonate, etc.) that precipitate on the membrane. These salts plug
the pores and channels, reducing the water production rate.
​

Point number 1 - if you note - is pressure. Where does the pressure on the membrane come from? Only one of two places - excessive pressure from the pump, or excessive pressure from flow (or lack thereof) if you will. When you open one side of the membrane - as you do when you run all the water out of the R/O water storage system - you have 60 lbs of pressure on one side and zero on the other... An automatic shutoff valve keeps the pressure on the output side within 60% of the input side - thus eliminating this issue.

And I will state this, no need to be nasty. I am only passing information that I received from an expert. I also agreed that my anecdotal experience was EXACTLY the same as yours. i did not state that you need to change anything... I realize that many times manufacturers are overly cautious in manuals and installation instructions. So cool your jets my friend.

Best practice requires the use of an auto-shutoff valve. You may do as you please.

 

[silverrocksta]

Okay but my system already has a shut off. So if I go your way greatlife do I still need the new one as well

 

[oldman60]

"Yes, I will believe the guy who does system installation over some random person on the internet on any given day. Wouldn't you?"

No, I never put much weight on what salesmen or installers say. I prefer to follow the manufacturers recommendations and instructions.

Mine speaks of excess inlet pressure causing the cartridges to deform. It even gives the maximum and minimum inlet pressure for best results but nothing about outlet pressure. The only thing it suggested on the outlet was the check valve to prevent possible contamination from back flow.

I know Im not the only one here that simple changes the cartridges every 6 months or so and have had no
problems without an automatic shutoff.

If your system calls for one you should use it. The manufacturers generally knows much more than anyone
else about their product.