Purple Kush Auto - 150W HPS - First Grow

[mrunwrthy]

Decided last year I wanted to grow my own, for sport and getting to smoke strains I've never heard of. After research and many questions, here we go

Strain - Purple Kush Auto from Buddha Seeds, ordered thru The Vault. Arrived 4/20.

Setup - 2x2x5 grow tent, 150w HPS, 6 inch inline fan for exhaust, 6 inch carbon filter, passive intake with fan blowing in cool air and one circulating air.

Temp - 80 to 85

Humidity - 30% to 50%, seen it as high as 60%, average around 40%

Medium - Humboldt Organic, flushed with 6 gallons of water, crab and kelp meal, and dolomite lime

Nutrients : Neptune Harvest fish, kelp and seaweed / fish, ordering their veg and flower nutes soon, Alaska Fish Emulsion 5-1-1, and Epsom salt if needed.

I have the lights set on 12/1. I've read 12 hours were bad for autos, I just have to try it.

Planted 4/21. Popped up 4/25. There were 2, second never came up. Still mist the pot in hope.

Stretched, I know. Light was originally 2 feet away, it's at a foot now.

More pics to come. New to this entire process, so learning as I go.

Planning on not giving nutes until they show signs, wanna test the soil.

Any suggestions or more any more info needed, feel free to ask, I'm here to learn a new hobby. I'm all ears.


Thank you

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[Canna Montana]

Hi there. Nice looking baby you have there. 2 days ago we planted our first auto. I was a little worried this morning when it hadn't popped out of the soil yet. Quite disappointed actually. It makes me feel better to see yours took 4 days to arrive. There is still hope. Thank goodness. Anyway. Have a great day.

 

[Nismo12]

Purple kush auto....I'm in since we have witnessed the photo version preform quite well.

 

[mrunwrthy]

Hi there. Nice looking baby you have there. 2 days ago we planted our first auto. I was a little worried this morning when it hadn't popped out of the soil yet. Quite disappointed actually. It makes me feel better to see yours took 4 days to arrive. There is still hope. Thank goodness. Anyway. Have a great day.

What an epic name Canna lol.

Longest for days ever. I placed the seed in water with about a tablespoon of NH seaweed and fish. After about 8 hours it didn't sink, so I added another one. The second sank in less than a couple hours. What's crazy to me is the second had a tap root when moved to pots and never came up.

Thank you for stopping by .

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[mrunwrthy]

Purple kush auto....I'm in since we have witnessed the photo version preform quite well.

Thank you nismo.

I ordered a few different strains. NL auto, WW auto, Sour Diesel auto, Sour Diesel Haze auto ( was supposed to be a free seed, ended up with three ), Purple Kush Auto, and Buddha mixed seed pack.

Also have a free Quick one auto, Royal AK auto and Critical + auto.

Decided on Pk because of the awesome pics and journals online.

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[mrunwrthy]

My setup. A little crowded. I'm straightening things up today or tomorrow. Inline fan runs on medium, high sounds like a jet plane.

Pic of my lady PK. Added a bit of dirt, mist the top soil. The humidity raised to about 45 after the mist. I have a pot of wet perlite in the tent for humidity. Trying hard not to have to buy an humidifier. Tried a cabinet grow first, way too hot for the Hps. So I'm way over budget so far, no complaints.

First seed planted. Had a root but never showed. I still mist the pot a couple times a day with hope. No telling how long I'll keep it there.



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[juststarting]

Hello good luck

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[mrunwrthy]

Hello good luck

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Thank you juststarting .

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[Canna Montana]

What an epic name Canna lol.

Longest for days ever. I placed the seed in water with about a tablespoon of NH seaweed and fish. After about 8 hours it didn't sink, so I added another one. The second sank in less than a couple hours. What's crazy to me is the second had a tap root when moved to pots and never came up.

Thank you for stopping by .

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Thanks for the comp on the name. It was almost canna Marie, but out of the blue, I put it in and it hadn't been taken. How sweet is that?

The first seed we planted had a nice taproot. Never came out though. This second one had a longer taproot. I was super discouraged this morning until I saw this post. Thanks for the bit of hope. Have a great day.

 

[mrunwrthy]

I've read some could take a week, maybe longer. Genetics I guess. Hope yours come up soon.

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[mrunwrthy]

Day 3

Added a bit more dirt last night during its one hour on. It's starting to lose that purple tint it popped up with.

Should be close to needing water in the next day or two. I have a moisture meter which checks ph, light per m/2, and moisture. I'm using it as a reference point to lifting the pot. Just a light mist a couple times a day for now.

I've never seen a journal where someone used Humboldt soil. Eventually I want to go organic, or hempy, as long as I can use NH line both ways. Anybody with experience using Humboldt soil, or NH with hempy grows? any knowledge would be appreciated.

Thank you

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[Nismo12]

No idea on the soil, but she is looking happy. Oh and those moisture meters don't lie. We have one as well.

 

[mrunwrthy]

I flushed the soil with 6 gallons of water a day before I planted. Added very little amount of crab and kelp meal and dolomite lime.

All and all it seems pretty good. But eventually medium will change

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[mrunwrthy]

Took a couple pics outside the tent. Also added a 6 inch booster fan for intake and closed a passive vent. Heat stays around 79. Humidity when up to 45.

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[mrunwrthy]

Day 4

Third set of leaves starting to grow. I plan on starting lst early, most likely when the third set of leaves come up.

Cleaned up a bit. Lowered the light down to 8 inches.

The thermometer and probe always reads at least 5 degrees apart from each other. I think it's because the probe is next to the seedling and the white fan blows on it. I'll check again midday.

I've been researching lst and scrog for autos. I'm leaving more towards lst, trying to train it into a circular pattern.



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[mrunwrthy]

Day 5

I have a few off days, what better way to spend them then stalking my baby. I notice something different everyday.

Watered for the first time yesterday. Looks like she liked it. New growth seems like it doubled.

According to my meter, soil ph is around 8, and it worries me. Question is, do I just go with it and see what happens, or is there anything I can do now to avoid further problems?

Thanks in advance

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[Prepper420]

Hey Mr. unworthy! Sounds like you have some really cool cultivars lined up! Just a few things I thought might help you:

Lighting for Auto Flowers should be 20/4 for the whole life of the plant. Do not place into the flowering room on a 12/12 light cycle, you will lose a lot in yield. Do not top/FIM or transplant (start the seed in final pot size). LST (Low Stress Training) only. You don't want to do anything to shock it and kill it/hermi/ or reduce yield.

Mulching
Mulch is not dug in - it stays on top of the soil. Using mulch conserves water by reducing surface evaporation; mulch also greatly reduces the need for weeding (outside). The mulch will gradually incorporate into the soil, adding nutrients and preserving loose soil texture. The mulch will need to be 'topped up' from time to time. I use the dead leaves from my plants and chop up stems and leaves from harvested plants as mulch, lots of nutrients left in those that will return to the soil and feed the next plant. This way there is zero waste. Reuse everything you can. A thick layer of mulch will prevent pests, like fungus gnats from laying their eggs or allowing the larva to reach the surface.

Plant Watering
When you start adding organic material to your garden soil and begin using compost and mulch you will use MUCH less water because of the water holding capacity and efficient use by the soil itself. That being said, watering is important and you should follow some basics for best results.

1. Water before sunrise or in the early morning. Indoors this means before the lights come on, or just after. This will allow the plants to have moisture for the hot day. Watering at night can cause humidity issues based on your environment and should be avoided unless they have to have the water.


2. Water with Clean water. Use rain water or use tap water that has been aerated for 24hrs. Adding citric acid or a small amount of organic material will break the chemical bonds of Chlorine or it's various other forms so it will evaporate out of the water and so you aren't doing damage to your microbial life. Or use a basic Filter for your water, just do something to have the best water you can afford to use for the garden.

3. Water at a temperature that isn't extreme. Don't use ice cold water or hot water if at all possible. I've used a seedling heat mat under a bucket to take the chill out of the water during the winter or a fish tank heater.

4. Make sure you have proper drainage and water till a little barely comes out the bottom of your container or until the garden is properly moist but not flooded. Over watering is a common mistake for many gardeners.

5. Don't aim for wet and dry cycles. Aim for Consistency of time of watering and also for a good moisture level in the soil. Keeping the soil moist will keep all the soil microbes alive and well. Drying out the soil will kill much of the soil life.


You can use dechlorinated water the whole plant's life or you can incorporate Nutritional and/or Sprouted Seed Tea's for a treatment or boost. If for whatever reason your plants look unhealthy and develop a nutrient deficiency you can brew an Aerated Tea. Watering your plants with that to restore them to health again. Teas can be brewed in a food grade 5gal bucket with an air stone to make it bubble. The stronger the air pump the better! The slurry left at the bottom of the bucket should be applied to the soil also to feed the life within. If you have a lot of leftover Tea, can strain out the slurry in the bottom and feed the solids to your worm farm or dilute and use on outside garden beds. Dilute by at least 50% before using on house plants, it will burn them.

Flushing
Chlorophyll b is the 'type' found in plants as we're defining it. Other structures are found in algae, cyanobacteria, et al.

Here is the molecular formula - C55H70O6N4Mg so we're looking at 55 Carbon ions, 70 Hydrogen ions, 6 Oxygen ions, 4 Nitrogen ions and 1 Magnesium ion. All 6 forms of chlorophyll have one consistent dynamic, i.e. a single Magnesium ion. Not two, not three - one. So much for the mythology about magnesium-hungry plants or worse in the wacky weed world where specific 'strains' can be magnesium-hungry. Looking at just chlorophyll b a better myth would be carbon-hungry or hydrogen-hungry and maybe even oxygen-hungry and nothing to do with magnesium.

My understanding of this worst example of "stoner science" is that by dumping copious amounts of water through a pot that somehow water with it's simple H2O formula is able to reach up from the root zone then into a plant's vascular system and deconstruct a fairly complex molecule - that must be some really unique water indeed!

In a dynamic called translocation plants can and do move materials from leaves to other tissues - that is established botany. Plants produce carbohydrates (sugars) in the leaves by photosynthesis but non-photysynthetic parts of the plant also require carbohydrates and other organic and nonorganic materials. It's for this reason that nutrients are translocated from sources (regions of excess carbohydrates, primarily matures leaves) to what are called sinks.

Some important sinks are roots, flowers, fruits, stems and developing leaves. Leaves are particularly interesting in the translocation process because they are sinks when they are young and become sources later when they are about half-grown.

Carbohydrates are simple Carbon, Hydrogen and Oxygen molecules, i.e. simple sugars.

So let's say for sake of silliness that flushing can trigger translocation which must be a real threat for rice plants, where are the chlorophyll ions going? They can't be destroyed because they're elements which cannot be destroyed or changed unless of course we're talking about cannabis which has special properties that negate almost every law of botany, biology, chemistry, physics imaginable.

Even if water could deconstruct and force translocation of elements doesn't that defeat the purpose in the first place which is claimed that flushing will remove the nasties causing us to not have dank! If the mature leaves are the repository, why would you want to move these ions to the buds which you plan on consuming?

Here is a link you a gardening info playlist on my YouTube channel, lots and lots of info that explains so much about the soil food web and how it works along with composting videos on free stuff you can grab and compost to top dress your plants with! Gardening Info
- YouTube

Happy to answer any questions!

 

[Prepper420]

Also, Don't waste your time PH adjusting or checking it lol. The microbiology and the roots themselves constantly change the PH in the soil to unlock and absorb different elements within the soil. So you will always have different readings and be like a dog chasing it's tail. Organics is real easy if you just setup the proper envoriment and let nature do the work for you . I haven't used a PH meter since 2012 lol

 

[mrunwrthy]

Thank you prepper. I really appreciate it.

I decided for 12/1 light cycle. Next time will be 20/4. I'm losing yield according to what I've read, but being my first grow I'm not too worried about it. My main focus now is growing a healthy lady.

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[knotspeeds88]

And is how you grow sweet organic cannabis! I am alone for the ride, those are some pretty little babes you have there.