Please help persistent issue

Dragoond2

Dragoond2

Well-Known Member
So first time grower using mars hydro 300w LED and a 2x2x4 grow tent cheap soil and all purpose miracle grow food on the big plant and fox farm soil on the small one. I was lazy and not checking ph of my tap water but even tho I have been it's still having trouble. Its having slow growth as well as leaves turning light in color and drying up starting at the tip. Any help would be greatly appreciated
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What have you done to check what it could be?.
Lights? Burning tips from heat?
Nutrients? Something missing or too much?.
Bugs? Always check for bugs....
Top pic... Space in pots?
It is a bit difficult to get an accurate idea with the purple light..
 
I'm pretty sure that's the same issue I had with maricle grow (soil) in my first grow. Problem with MG is when deficiencies pop up its much harder to fix as the mg nutrients aren't easy like say fox farms or general hydroponics that have feeding schedules.
If they were mine I'd order GH nutrients and flush the shit outta that soil then give the late veg feeding or early flowering if you've flipped to flowering.

Ph your water in at 6.5 then read/post what the water out ph and ppm are at.
 
I know a few months back I over feed with MG so I flushed it now that I went flower I have given it some bloom nutrients but from what I could find seemed like zinc or iron but recommended fix is ph water or add zinc or iron. Which I have fix the ph of the water I give it. Is the larger plant a lost cause just seems to get more damaged leaves everyday. No pests that I could find. Temps doesn't go over 80 and rh is between 30 and 50. The large one is in a 4qt pot I think. Could dense soil cause issues?
Thanks for the replies
 
your only real option is to order a dual pack TDS/pH meter for $20 on amazon, as well as some real nutrients thats not winging it like MG :p
Your plant can survive this if you act fast. Once you have some real nutrients (i recommend General Hydroponics trio or Fox Farms trio) then you can begin on the road to recovery as well as insure your future grows for success.

Step 1: Purchase TDS/pH meter, if you have 1 but not the other, get the other.
Step 2: Purchase nutrient basic line (3 parts/bottles), ive had good success with GH and use only that now.
Step 3: All items on hand, start flushing the problem plant. I take mine outside and let the hose on low do its work for 10 minutes. This will flush all the nutrients out of that plant so we can refill it with nutrients where we know its getting correct levels of each type. When done , turn off hose and let plant sit somewhere where it can drain for 15 minutes.
Step 4: Get 1 gallons of water and ph it to 6.5
Step 5: Pour the gallon of that ph corrected water into the problem plant, this is to push out any remaining non ph'd hose water. Let sit for an additional 15 minutes to drain.
Step 6: fill up another 1 gallon jug and use the GH nutrient feeding charts early flowering measurements to mix with the 1 gallon of water. The chart for GH soil during early flowering reads 4ml/1ml/5ml per gallon of water. After you added the nutrients, pH it to 6.5. Feed this to your plant and you should see any and all problems no longer occurring on new growth. (EDIT: Actually id give the first new feeding a 4/4/4 instead of 4/1/5, then u can do 4/1/5 next feeding)


Hopefully the leaves aren't too far gone for you by this point cause in flowering, you dont gain anymore new growth. Its important to have the tools you need on standby, as well as a good feeding schedule + nutrients. Using those steps you can almost always fix any and all deficiency and toxicity problems, assuming thats really the issue at hand.
 
First pic leaf tips burnt. Likely from the nutrients in the soil too strong.

You mentioned "flushing" soil at early age. Not sure what you're trying to accomplish.

Flushing is not a thing. It's been proven to do absolutely nothing to your soil or your plants other than drown the micro-organisms and roots.

Ok?

What running a bunch of water thru the soil to run-off tho likely is not going to hurt anything specially if you let the water sit in the tray the plants sitting it and she drinks that extra water back up.

THE only thing running extra water thru soil will sometimes do is wash out extra Nitrogen that has not been able to be adsorbed thru Cation Exchange. This is what is called leachate. Running water thru soil is not an effective way to "remove" nutrients extra or otherwise.

Re:Cation Exchange Capacity

Here's a quick read on it:
Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity | Fact Sheets | soilquality.org.au

Minerals are adsorbed by SOM (soil organic matter) thru a chemical process. No amount of water can un-do that chemical bond. It already took place water wont "rinse" it off.

That said, your plants look pretty good specially the 2nd pic. The first pic looks "to me" like your water you're using is not optimal.. maybe too much of something or PH is WAY off.

My advice is to think about how you want to grow and what style is best for your needs and life style. Do you like to fuss with your plants an hour or more every day? OR do you wanna plant water and leave them alone??

IF you like to fuss, get all the gear and chemicals and what have you and have at it.

If you want to let the plants do their thing with little input, check out organic soil growing.

Cannabis is a weed. It will grow with very little if any human intervention.

Nothing we can do to replace genetics. So don't expect stellar results from bag seed..unless of course that bag was full of good weed.
 
Dunno what nonsense about flushing doesn't do anything you're going on about
It absolutely does something. It washes out existing salts (nutes). Unless a ppm meter is magically going down after a flush, on its own, flushing absolutely washes away excess nutrients. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you

I'll give that article a read later today when I wake up, always interesting to learn more.
 
vyserage said:
Dunno what nonsense about flushing doesn't do anything you're going on about
It absolutely does something. It washes out existing salts (nutes). Unless a ppm meter is magically going down after a flush, on its own, flushing absolutely washes away excess nutrients. Maybe I'm just misunderstanding you

I'll give that article a read later today when I wake up, always interesting to learn more.
Click to expand...

Here's some science:


"Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity


Key Points

  • Cation exchange capacity (CEC) is the total capacity of a soil to hold exchangeable cations.
  • CEC is an inherent soil characteristic and is difficult to alter significantly.
  • It influences the soil’s ability to hold onto essential nutrients and provides a buffer against soil acidification."

This is why flushing is nothing but watering.

You output will be excess Nitrogen IF there is any. Has no effect on plant growth/health.



Excess Nitrogen is also known as "Leachate" - food for thought (think of the fish)
that's your excess salts. Even when there are excess nutrients in the soil, the plants will uptake only what they need and leave the rest behind.

Washing the soil is a thing, but it's not what you think it is.

Interesting thought: outcome of washing soil by mother nature = clay deposits.
Clay is most important in Cation Exchange Capacity. World turns.

Cations and Cation Exchange Capacity | Fact Sheets | soilquality.org.au
 
It looks like a magnesium deficiency to me... and again I will insist that in soil, adjusting pH to 6.5 is not always optimal in a soil that is buffered to drift upwards... I will always advise to pH to the low end of the 6.3-6.8 scale.
 
Sometimes leaves down low just die. Its not the end of the world unless the whole plant looks like that.

Post a pic of the whole plant.

Plant isn't very large that I can tell so hard to have deficit in soil with small plants unless the soil is mainly peat moss.
 
bobrown14 said:
Sometimes leaves down low just die.
Click to expand...
Not without a reason they don't. Most of us would like to know that reason so even if we can't correct it this time, we can avoid the whole situation the next time. Sorry Bob, but the peat moss comment is simply not true... it is very easy to get deficiencies in our plants, by not supplying additional magnesium and by not having the pH correctly adjusted every time we add fluids to our plants, or simply by not feeding them correctly. Peat, especially after it starts breaking down in late flower or with re-used soil can drive the pH down to the floor, but that is just one of the many known problems that can occur in a grow.
 
Dragoond2 said:
So just noticed fungal gnats in my soil any advice? And could that have cuz all my issues?
Click to expand...
if it were a fungus gnat infestation you would know... they are a common problem, but until their larvae get down into your soil and start eating your roots they are mostly just a nuisance, but they do need to be dealt with because eventually they can infest your buds. There are many ways to trap them and you can use neem oil to discourage them... but proper drying out between waterings helps a lot as well as keeping runoff water out of the tent. Your issues do not seem this big... you appear to only have a very common magnesium deficiency.
 
Dragoond2 said:
I have upped the mag but never seems to get better could it just be a bad seed
Click to expand...
You are still expecting instant results. Give it 3 wet/dry cycles.
 

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