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Good morning my friendHi guys. This is how my plant looks in 4th week of flower. What do you guys think ? Lack of phosphorus ? Potassium ? Nitrogen ? Everything ?
I´m kinda lost. Please help me !
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Looks like a bit of everything. It is not all that unusual for an indoor plant to show some color changes towards the end of flowering but at 4 weeks in it is a bit premature. This early and the amount of color change there is a good chance that it is "everything".Lack of phosphorus ? Potassium ? Nitrogen ? Everything ?
I´m using super soil, and been feeding once a week with liquid humus (organic food waste, dry organic matter, amino acids, sugars and aerobic microorganisms) and ocean mix (Fish remains, amino acids, sugars, pyroligneous and algae extract, sugar cane molasses, vitamins, fatty acids ) and top dressed once in veg and once in flower with wormcastings. also using bokashi once every 14 days. In the last 2 waterings I used MKP to try increasing phosphorus but it only got worse.Good morning my friend
Sorry about your issue.
She is hungry for nutrients correct.
Are you in soil?
Are you giving full strength nutrients every other watering?
To run off at 6.3 ph?
Stay safe
Bill284![]()
The plant does have some nice fall colors but it is early. I try to keep the green in the leaves as long as possible with just the larger fan leaves showing signs of deficiency.
It would help pinpoint the issue if we could see the actual colors. Most of the time it is better to turn off the grow light and use a normal household light whether a ceiling light or a table lamp. The way it looks the grow light is throwing a lot of red and that is making it harder to see the shades of yellow in the leaves.
To help stop the problem the answers to Bill's questions to begin with.
What is the soil mix in the pot? What fertilizers, what dose, and the schedule that you are using?
And, is this a photo-period or an auto-flower? How long has this been going on?
Looks like a bit of everything. It is not all that unusual for an indoor plant to show some color changes towards the end of flowering but at 4 weeks in it is a bit premature. This early and the amount of color change there is a good chance that it is "everything".
It will be almost impossible to turn the plant back to green but it is possible to slow down the change enough to keep the leaves still functioning and feeding the plant. And with what you learn from this plant will help keep the next plant going strong longer into flowering.
And how big a container? Enough Supersoil should get you further than this. Did you cook it first and if so, how long?
You may be overfeeding it and causing pH issues that are locking stuff out which causes other lockouts and the problem snowballs.
Maybe because the plant didn´t stretch a lot I should have used less and by using the recomended amount I over did it ?I bought it ready to use, and used the fertilizers from the same brand of the soil, on the schedule and the amount they recomended. I did it exactly to avoid this kind of problems, because it is my first plant ever. It is a 15L pot
Do you think that it had already been cooked? Minimum 2 weeks but 4-6 is betterI bought it ready to use
Do you think that it had already been cooked? Minimum 2 weeks but 4-6 is better
And autos can be finicky to grow. I know they're marketed as a great intro to growing plant but they're anything but. If you stress it anywhere along the way it can trigger it to flower.
15L is too small to make it all the way through flower with a photo plant with adding v additional inputs but should be close to getting an auto to harvest without anything additional, and even if they are required it should only be towsrds the end of the grow.
The fact that you're feeding it as much and as often as you are has me wondering if that's your problem. The people that sold you the soil said you heeded to fertilize it in addition? That soil is packed with nutrients.
Also, Supersoil is usually only put in the bottom say third of the container with the rest a more neutral soil.
So, I think you're looking at one of two issues. Either your pH is off, or you're overfeeding it leading to issues, and I'd bet it's the latter.
That's what makes me think you're overdoing it, but I don't use your soil or your nute package. With organics you're really trying to feed the soil not the plants and you let the microbes feed the plant so if you stuff too much into your pot it usually just causes problems because everything should be balanced so anything that throws that off snowballs on you.In the last 2 waterings I used MKP to try increasing phosphorus but it only got worse.
Flower period should probably be 8-10 weeks unless it's a heavy sativa which yours doesn't look like it is.Maybe for being a bad genetic the flower period was somehow shortened ?
Mariga, can you give us the official name of the company that made the soil and the various amendments that you bought and added. Or, a photo of the front and back of the bag as long as I can see the name and a web-site to check out what the company mentions about its products.I bought it ready to use, and used the fertilizers from the same brand of the soil, on the schedule and the amount they recomended.
Am I understanding it correctly that these four items are listed as being in the super-soil that you bought? Or, are all the other ingredients already mixed in when you bought the bag of soil.Also this is the super soil composition
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30% peat, 30% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 20% wormcastings
Or, is everything on your lists of amendments included somewhere in the list of ingredients on the bag of supersoil?coconut fiber, cattle manure, chicken manure, rabbit manure, bat guano, dolomitic limestone, neem cake, cottonseed cake, fish meal, bone meal, blood, bokashi, algae extracts and amino acids.
I seems like you had a base mix of super-soil and then added 10 or more ingredients and then added even more by using this liquid humus and ocean mix. Might have gone overboard as the saying is here in the US.I´m using super soil, and been feeding once a week with liquid humus ... and ocean mix...
...earthworm humus, cattle manure, chicken manure, rabbit manure, bat guano, dolomitic limestone, neem cake, cottonseed cake, fish meal, bone meal, blood, bokashi, algae extracts and amino acids.
Emilya G. has a different watering method once the plant enters flowering and it takes reading the entire thread to find and understand what she started recommending. According to her messages in the thread, using the same watering method that she suggests for vegetating plants does not work. I believe it can be part of the cause of some of the problems new growers run into during the flowering stage.It's a pretty long thread so read the first couple of pages and then jump to the last/current page to join the discussion.
Nice colors to the plant in the natural light photo. But, those colors are weeks early so they are not a good thing to have, just that they make a colorful photo.
Probably because I look at soils and soil amendments differently than others I am noticing some comments that do not seem to fit.
Mariga, can you give us the official name of the company that made the soil and the various amendments that you bought and added. Or, a photo of the front and back of the bag as long as I can see the name and a web-site to check out what the company mentions about its products.
Am I understanding it correctly that these four items are listed as being in the super-soil that you bought? Or, are all the other ingredients already mixed in when you bought the bag of soil.
Or was it a bag of soil and in order to build a super-soil you then added all of these to the bag of soil as recommended inputs:
Or, is everything on your lists of amendments included somewhere in the list of ingredients on the bag of supersoil?
Something I am trying to figure out is "Why would the customer have to 'cook' the super-soil for several weeks and up to a month after buying it?".
And, "Why would the customer have to add amendments to a super-soil?". I know that here in the US we have Build-A-Soil which sells a complete package of soil and amendments which the gardener mixes according to instructions but so far I have not noticed any mention that this is what was happening. It reads as if the bag of soil is bought and then the gardener buys from a list of recommended supplements.
There is mentioned in msg #4 of this:
I seems like you had a base mix of super-soil and then added 10 or more ingredients and then added even more by using this liquid humus and ocean mix. Might have gone overboard as the saying is here in the US.
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I used translation software for web pages and for some words. If I had run into any real problem my wife reads, writes and speaks Italian. Italian, Portuguese and Spanish are very similar to each other so she can often help with translating.Sorry if I didn´t express myself better, I´m brazilian and also the brand of the soil is brazilian, so I don´t know if you would understand their website. The name of it is "terro", and the website lojaterro.com.br
Yeah, but Gee's thread is more of an organic growing rabbit hole collection. Kind of a hangout for that type of growing but all styles are welcomed.Emilya G. has a different watering method once the plant enters flowering and it takes reading the entire thread to find and understand what she started recommending. According to her messages in the thread, using the same watering method that she suggests for vegetating plants does not work. I believe it can be part of the cause of some of the problems new growers run into during the flowering stage.
I used translation software for web pages and for some words. If I had run into any real problem my wife reads, writes and speaks Italian. Italian, Portuguese and Spanish are very similar to each other so she can often help with translating.
The company calls their soils a kit. From what I have read so far the soil is designed for use when growing in pots. It is ready to go when you get it. It has already been aged for 90 days. For the first growing the company says it is a "water only" except for unusual cases. You should be able to go from seedling to the harvest without having to add anything to the soil for the first plant.
The grower does not have to adjust the pH of the water, in fact they write that it should not be attempted. That is very similar to the Advanced Nutrients fertilizers that are used over here. Trying to adjust water pH with chemical pH UP and pH DOWN is not recommended at all just like with the Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect. As @Azimuth mentioned earlier is good to know the pH of your water even if you are not going to adjust it.
Also, no use of non-organic types of fertilizers so they are very much against the use of MKP.
If all goes properly there is no need to replace the nutrients until the next time the soil is used. Using the liquid humus, the ocean mix and the MKP might have been too much and made the soil "hot" or stronger and the plant then ran into problems.
If the grower wants they can re-use the soil for another time. All they have to do is replace a 1/3 of the used soil with fresh soil from the company and add some supplements to replace what was used up during the previous grow.
You could try doing a flushing of the soil to remove the excess nutrients. I doubt that a flushing will correct the entire problem but it might be enough to "reset" the soil which will let the plant recover. Just watering without any nutrients might be enough to stop the change in the plant and keep it from getting worse. Up to you if you want to try a flushing but remember the plant still has another 4 to 5 weeks to go. Let's see what the others have to say about doing that.