Plant with deficiency, need help
- Thread starter mariga
- Start date
Good morning my friendHi guys. This is how my plant looks in 4th week of flower. What do you guys think ? Lack of phosphorus ? Potassium ? Nitrogen ? Everything ?
I´m kinda lost. Please help me !
Sorry about your issue.
She is hungry for nutrients correct.
Are you in soil?
Are you giving full strength nutrients every other watering?
To run off at 6.3 ph?
Stay safe
Bill284
The plant does have some nice fall colors but it is early. I try to keep the green in the leaves as long as possible with just the larger fan leaves showing signs of deficiency.
It would help pinpoint the issue if we could see the actual colors. Most of the time it is better to turn off the grow light and use a normal household light whether a ceiling light or a table lamp. The way it looks the grow light is throwing a lot of red and that is making it harder to see the shades of yellow in the leaves.
To help stop the problem the answers to Bill's questions to begin with.
What is the soil mix in the pot? What fertilizers, what dose, and the schedule that you are using?
And, is this a photo-period or an auto-flower? How long has this been going on?
It will be almost impossible to turn the plant back to green but it is possible to slow down the change enough to keep the leaves still functioning and feeding the plant. And with what you learn from this plant will help keep the next plant going strong longer into flowering.
It would help pinpoint the issue if we could see the actual colors. Most of the time it is better to turn off the grow light and use a normal household light whether a ceiling light or a table lamp. The way it looks the grow light is throwing a lot of red and that is making it harder to see the shades of yellow in the leaves.
To help stop the problem the answers to Bill's questions to begin with.
What is the soil mix in the pot? What fertilizers, what dose, and the schedule that you are using?
And, is this a photo-period or an auto-flower? How long has this been going on?
Looks like a bit of everything. It is not all that unusual for an indoor plant to show some color changes towards the end of flowering but at 4 weeks in it is a bit premature. This early and the amount of color change there is a good chance that it is "everything".
It will be almost impossible to turn the plant back to green but it is possible to slow down the change enough to keep the leaves still functioning and feeding the plant. And with what you learn from this plant will help keep the next plant going strong longer into flowering.
- Thread starter
- #4
I´m using super soil, and been feeding once a week with liquid humus (organic food waste, dry organic matter, amino acids, sugars and aerobic microorganisms) and ocean mix (Fish remains, amino acids, sugars, pyroligneous and algae extract, sugar cane molasses, vitamins, fatty acids ) and top dressed once in veg and once in flower with wormcastings. also using bokashi once every 14 days. In the last 2 waterings I used MKP to try increasing phosphorus but it only got worse.Good morning my friend
Sorry about your issue.
She is hungry for nutrients correct.
Are you in soil?
Are you giving full strength nutrients every other watering?
To run off at 6.3 ph?
Stay safe
Bill284
As for watering I´m doing it once every 3 days, maybe the problem is the ph because I didn´t measure it, it was working fine for the veg state and it is a super soil, so I thought it was ok.
Sorry if u don´t understand the components of the fertilizers, I´m brazilian and I just translated it on google.
- Thread starter
- #5
This is how the plant looks with normal light. This is an autoflower and the problems started in the last 2 weeks or 10 days.
- Thread starter
- #6
Also this is the super soil composition
Peat, perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, earthworm humus, cattle manure, chicken manure, rabbit manure, bat guano, dolomitic limestone, neem cake, cottonseed cake, fish meal, bone meal, blood, bokashi, algae extracts and amino acids.
30% peat, 30% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 20% wormcastings
Peat, perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, earthworm humus, cattle manure, chicken manure, rabbit manure, bat guano, dolomitic limestone, neem cake, cottonseed cake, fish meal, bone meal, blood, bokashi, algae extracts and amino acids.
30% peat, 30% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 20% wormcastings
And how big a container? Enough Supersoil should get you further than this. Did you cook it first and if so, how long?
You may be overfeeding it and causing pH issues that are locking stuff out which causes other lockouts and the problem snowballs.
You may be overfeeding it and causing pH issues that are locking stuff out which causes other lockouts and the problem snowballs.
- Thread starter
- #8
I bought it ready to use, and used the fertilizers from the same brand of the soil, on the schedule and the amount they recomended. I did it exactly to avoid this kind of problems, because it is my first plant ever. It is a 15L pot
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- #9
Maybe because the plant didn´t stretch a lot I should have used less and by using the recomended amount I over did it ?
Do you think that it had already been cooked? Minimum 2 weeks but 4-6 is better
And autos can be finicky to grow. I know they're marketed as a great intro to growing plant but they're anything but. If you stress it anywhere along the way it can trigger it to flower.
15L is too small to make it all the way through flower with a photo plant with adding v additional inputs but should be close to getting an auto to harvest without anything additional, and even if they are required it should only be towsrds the end of the grow.
The fact that you're feeding it as much and as often as you are has me wondering if that's your problem. The people that sold you the soil said you heeded to fertilize it in addition? That soil is packed with nutrients.
Also, Supersoil is usually only put in the bottom say third of the container with the rest a more neutral soil.
So, I think you're looking at one of two issues. Either your pH is off, or you're overfeeding it leading to issues, and I'd bet it's the latter.
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- #11
Yes, the soil was cooked and put to rest. The soil is a super soil for autos, so it is not as hot as a super soil for photos, because of the stress of transplanting an auto, so this soil should be used from start to finish of the cultivar, and the inputs are recomended by them because as the plant grows it consumes the nutrients so they say nutrients should be refilled. Looking at the state of the plant now, what do you think I should do ? Just water without fertilizers for a while ?
I would but once they start cannibalizing the leaves they may not get back to a nice green.
And your water pH?
Any changes you make in organics can take a couple of weeks to show up in your plant. 4th week of flowering is about half way home so another two weeks puts you close to the end.
Normally with organic fertilizers like Geoflora, the recommendation is to add amendments every couple of weeks.
So, if it were my grow I'd back off on the feedings and watch my water pH which shouldn't really matter all that much unless it's way off, but it's good to have an idea.
And your water pH?
Any changes you make in organics can take a couple of weeks to show up in your plant. 4th week of flowering is about half way home so another two weeks puts you close to the end.
Normally with organic fertilizers like Geoflora, the recommendation is to add amendments every couple of weeks.
That's what makes me think you're overdoing it, but I don't use your soil or your nute package. With organics you're really trying to feed the soil not the plants and you let the microbes feed the plant so if you stuff too much into your pot it usually just causes problems because everything should be balanced so anything that throws that off snowballs on you.
So, if it were my grow I'd back off on the feedings and watch my water pH which shouldn't really matter all that much unless it's way off, but it's good to have an idea.
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- #13
My water PH I just never checked because until flower I didn´t really have a problem, so I assumed it was ok. Since it´s organic I figured it shouldn´t matter too much. Looking back, I think I should have measured it.
As for the MKP I never intended to use non organic stuff but it was more of a desperate move because the symptons of lack of phosphorus were there and I know people that cultivate on super soil with mineral inputs, and they do this kind of thing to correct deficiencies, and I know they are great growers.
This is an unknown genetic too, I don´t know if maybe there is something to do with all of this. Maybe for being a bad genetic the flower period was somehow shortened ?
I´m really in the dark here, I think I´ll just water normally without anything until the end and hope the plant still gives me something. And next cycle I restart with a better soil and better seeds.
Thanks for helping
As for the MKP I never intended to use non organic stuff but it was more of a desperate move because the symptons of lack of phosphorus were there and I know people that cultivate on super soil with mineral inputs, and they do this kind of thing to correct deficiencies, and I know they are great growers.
This is an unknown genetic too, I don´t know if maybe there is something to do with all of this. Maybe for being a bad genetic the flower period was somehow shortened ?
I´m really in the dark here, I think I´ll just water normally without anything until the end and hope the plant still gives me something. And next cycle I restart with a better soil and better seeds.
Thanks for helping
Flower period should probably be 8-10 weeks unless it's a heavy sativa which yours doesn't look like it is.
You should come join us over in Gee's thread The GeeSpot you finally found it where a bunch of us discuss organic growing and kick around possible solutions to issues we collectively post.
It's a pretty long thread so read the first couple of pages and then jump to the last/current page to join the discussion.
Nice colors to the plant in the natural light photo. But, those colors are weeks early so they are not a good thing to have, just that they make a colorful photo.
Probably because I look at soils and soil amendments differently than others I am noticing some comments that do not seem to fit.
Or was it a bag of soil and in order to build a super-soil you then added all of these to the bag of soil as recommended inputs:
Something I am trying to figure out is "Why would the customer have to 'cook' the super-soil for several weeks and up to a month after buying it?".
And, "Why would the customer have to add amendments to a super-soil?". I know that here in the US we have Build-A-Soil which sells a complete package of soil and amendments which the gardener mixes according to instructions but so far I have not noticed any mention that this is what was happening. It reads as if the bag of soil is bought and then the gardener buys from a list of recommended supplements.
There is mentioned in msg #4 of this:
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I looked at the list of amendments and for one reason or another I do not see why they all would have to be added to a super-soil. Just for starters there are 4 manures and in addition there are two major and two minor sources of Nitrogen. Even accounting for the rates that the various amendments break-down and make the nutrients available it just reads as way to much mixed in.
Probably because I look at soils and soil amendments differently than others I am noticing some comments that do not seem to fit.
Mariga, can you give us the official name of the company that made the soil and the various amendments that you bought and added. Or, a photo of the front and back of the bag as long as I can see the name and a web-site to check out what the company mentions about its products.
Am I understanding it correctly that these four items are listed as being in the super-soil that you bought? Or, are all the other ingredients already mixed in when you bought the bag of soil.
Or was it a bag of soil and in order to build a super-soil you then added all of these to the bag of soil as recommended inputs:
Or, is everything on your lists of amendments included somewhere in the list of ingredients on the bag of supersoil?
Something I am trying to figure out is "Why would the customer have to 'cook' the super-soil for several weeks and up to a month after buying it?".
And, "Why would the customer have to add amendments to a super-soil?". I know that here in the US we have Build-A-Soil which sells a complete package of soil and amendments which the gardener mixes according to instructions but so far I have not noticed any mention that this is what was happening. It reads as if the bag of soil is bought and then the gardener buys from a list of recommended supplements.
There is mentioned in msg #4 of this:
I seems like you had a base mix of super-soil and then added 10 or more ingredients and then added even more by using this liquid humus and ocean mix. Might have gone overboard as the saying is here in the US.
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I looked at the list of amendments and for one reason or another I do not see why they all would have to be added to a super-soil. Just for starters there are 4 manures and in addition there are two major and two minor sources of Nitrogen. Even accounting for the rates that the various amendments break-down and make the nutrients available it just reads as way to much mixed in.
Emilya G. has a different watering method once the plant enters flowering and it takes reading the entire thread to find and understand what she started recommending. According to her messages in the thread, using the same watering method that she suggests for vegetating plants does not work. I believe it can be part of the cause of some of the problems new growers run into during the flowering stage.
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- #17
All the manure etc that I said was already mixed in the soil I bought with the peat, perlite, vermiculite and wormcastings. I didn´t do anything to the soil, the stuff I added was the fertilizers they recommended ( liquid humus, ocean mix and bokashi ). I didn´t have to cook the soil either, the soil was cooked and put to rest by the company that sold me. I know they did it because it is in the description of the product in the website. When I bought it, it was ready to use.
Sorry if I didn´t express myself better, I´m brazilian and also the brand of the soil is brazilian, so I don´t know if you would understand their website. The name of it is "terro", and the website lojaterro.com.br
I used translation software for web pages and for some words. If I had run into any real problem my wife reads, writes and speaks Italian. Italian, Portuguese and Spanish are very similar to each other so she can often help with translating.
The company calls their soils a kit. From what I have read so far the soil is designed for use when growing in pots. It is ready to go when you get it. It has already been aged for 90 days. For the first growing the company says it is a "water only" except for unusual cases. You should be able to go from seedling to the harvest without having to add anything to the soil for the first plant.
The grower does not have to adjust the pH of the water, in fact they write that it should not be attempted. That is very similar to the Advanced Nutrients fertilizers that are used over here. Trying to adjust water pH with chemical pH UP and pH DOWN is not recommended at all just like with the Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect. As @Azimuth mentioned earlier is good to know the pH of your water even if you are not going to adjust it.
Also, no use of non-organic types of fertilizers so they are very much against the use of MKP.
If all goes properly there is no need to replace the nutrients until the next time the soil is used. Using the liquid humus, the ocean mix and the MKP might have been too much and made the soil "hot" or stronger and the plant then ran into problems.
If the grower wants they can re-use the soil for another time. All they have to do is replace a 1/3 of the used soil with fresh soil from the company and add some supplements to replace what was used up during the previous grow.
You could try doing a flushing of the soil to remove the excess nutrients. I doubt that a flushing will correct the entire problem but it might be enough to "reset" the soil which will let the plant recover. Just watering without any nutrients might be enough to stop the change in the plant and keep it from getting worse. Up to you if you want to try a flushing but remember the plant still has another 4 to 5 weeks to go. Let's see what the others have to say about doing that.
Yeah, but Gee's thread is more of an organic growing rabbit hole collection. Kind of a hangout for that type of growing but all styles are welcomed.
Certain parts of the thread build on prior posts for a few pages and then attention turns to something else, so no need to read from start to end but there's lot's of gems in there so it's worth the full read if you can.
- Thread starter
- #20
They do recomend use of organic inputs, here is their calendar for them that I followed. Also, the MKP was used when the plant was already like this, I only used this week, so it was not the cause of the nutrient lockout.
Thanks for the effort of going out there and reading in another language ! I will just try watering normally without anything from now on.
