PH problem or no?
- Thread starter ITheNorth
- Start date
Need more info bud
How to Ask for Grow Support
It is VERY hard to help diagnose plant problems if we don't have all the required information. EXTREMELY IMPORTANT The ONLY way to receive optimal feedback and support is to provide photos! Photo Gallery Guide - How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos REQUIRED READING FOR ALL NEW GROWERS! How to...
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- #3
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
What kind of info? Can you see the 5 pics I posted?
The link has the kind of info we need
Pic dosent tell yer pH, soil, nute amount, etc etc etc
Pic dosent tell yer pH, soil, nute amount, etc etc etc
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- #5
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
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- #6
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
Soil is super soil and sheep manure. Ph I have no idea. I knew my tap water was high ph so I switched
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- #7
pH is very very important
Get a pH pen, less than $20 online
Calmag is also a good addition to yer nutes
Get a pH pen, less than $20 online
Calmag is also a good addition to yer nutes
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- #9
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
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- #10
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
I thought there was a way to tell by looking at the leaves which are turning yellow from the outside in and some brown near edges. I'll see what I can find. Thanks
Looks like the start of some PK issues since yer in flower
Not always as simple as looking at a leaf, but always best to have all the info when evaluating a situation my friend
Not always as simple as looking at a leaf, but always best to have all the info when evaluating a situation my friend
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- #12
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
So what should my next step be? I just ordered a ph pen but wont arrive for 2 more days. Will it be too late then?
Better get some pH up and down too
If you don't have any PK booster The BLOOM probably has added in it, maybe up that a bit
Yellowing is normal a bit in flower, get the pH right, watch it, and she probably will be fine
The bad leaves won't get better, FYI, so watch for it to spread
If Emily pops in she will have more good info for ya
If you don't have any PK booster The BLOOM probably has added in it, maybe up that a bit
Yellowing is normal a bit in flower, get the pH right, watch it, and she probably will be fine
The bad leaves won't get better, FYI, so watch for it to spread
If Emily pops in she will have more good info for ya
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- #14
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
Thank you
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Well, we have already talked and this is why we now have a new 3 part nutrient program going, which is buffered so that pH isnt so terribly important... but yes, I do recommend getting a good meter so you can help things out a bit.
I am just sitting here watching to see if all the other advice is going to confuse the issue so badly that we get desperate to try 17 things all at once... never knowing what actually helped or killed the plants.
My advice: you know you had a deficiency and I thought we had logically isolated its cause. Through careful shopping you found the solution to this problem, proper nutrition. Now trust in those decisions, and wait to see what happens through careful application of science, instead of guesswork.
Lol
I assume you two discussed this
Emily has great advice...I'd stick with her knowledge and not muddy the waters by asking for more advice
Always more to the story
Lol
I assume you two discussed this
Emily has great advice...I'd stick with her knowledge and not muddy the waters by asking for more advice
Always more to the story
Lol
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- #17
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
Thanks for replying @Emilya. I've had some yellowing of the fan leaves for 21 days or so, which I believe is totally ok, but this yellowing is also starting on the colas which does concern me. She is in a 5 gallon pot and hasn't been watered or nutes since last Thursday. Not looking like she needs a drink either..been cool and cloudy.
I did switch to your watering method, did a 3x flush, then fed the next day with new nutes at half strength
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- #18
ITheNorth
Well-Known Member
Ph pen will be here on Thursday. Do I test the ph of the runoff water as well as the ph of the water with nutes, or will nutes neutralize my water before I feed her therefore neutralizing the soil?
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
you are following the advice of too many advisers...
ok... so you have a deficiency caused by not getting the right nutes. You figured out that you needed to supply those nutes and you went to two places in order to get the flowering nutes you needed.
Good so far...
Then, contrary to logic, you decided that your plant needed a 3x flush. Not the strongest move on the board, that. At that point, she has no nutes... zero...
tick tock... the problem is getting more pronounced....
So that overnight was rough, and some more leaves were scavenged... and she went into survival mode... metabolism down to zero and all that. A girl has to survive after all.
Then you fed with half nutes. I had to read that twice. You have a starving plant, now really starving, and you gave it half strength nutes. I am a professional chess player. In that world, we would call this move a blunder. One can recover from blunders, but it always changes the shape of the board.
So the yellowing is progressing...
That is totally logical and to be expected. Let's say that the desired nute level is 1. Before you started this you were at a -5 on nutes available to the plant that it needed. When you flushed, you went down to a -8. Half feeding, you came back up to a -3, only slightly better than you started. You are needing to play catch up. Full feeding is entirely appropriate at this point. Feeding at 150% at least once, without a flush, in the chess world would have been labeled as a brilliant move as it would have allowed the plant to catch up and get on with things, without losing any more leaves or development at the top.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Testing the ph of runoff water is like hitting yourself in the head with a stick... it tells you nothing, it is completely silly, and it can hurt if you pay attention to it.
Think of a coffee percolator. If you use less water, the pot of coffee is stronger, more water makes it weaker. Runoff is the same way... at what point is it accurate and have anything to do with anything happening in the soil, at the beginning of runoff when it is nice and thick, or after 20% runoff? It is totally arbitrary and tells you nothing.
You do not adjust the soil. Don't let anyone tell you any differently... the soil is set to a specific base pH and without totally messing it up, you can't change it... certainly not during a grow. What you can control is the pH of every fluid that hits that soil, and whether it is water or water mixed with something else, you test the pH of that fluid immediately before you pour it in the soil. In soil, you adjust that fluid to 6.3 pH, and let the soil do what it does. You are neutralizing nothing... you are carefully and scientifically adjusting the pH to a certain number that is not neutral, 7.0 pH is neutral and the desired 6.3 is slightly acidic of that point. Soil is also never neutral, and is commonly adjusted to 6-7-6.8 pH, dry.
