PlumberSoCal

Well-Known Member
From aphids to spider mites to slugs/snails to mice/rats to moth larvae to PM and fungus rot, growing outside can become a smorgasbord for pests and leave us with little to show for our time and effort.

We must be careful what we use to control pests as most of us plan to ingest parts of the plant by smoking/vaping, eating or extracting and combining with food or drink so it is very important to use pesticides that won't hurt us in the process.

With all the bugs and fungus that regularly attack our plants I've found a regular regime of prophylactic sprays has helped control the bugs and helped me realize fuller harvests. Here's what I use:

Neem Oil
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I spray this weekly on all seedlings and plants in veg and up to 4 weeks after flip. Never use on plants close to harvest as it will affect the taste but as a pesticide and fungicide it's hard to beat.

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Spinosad. A bacteria grown specifically for use controlling bugs. This will even kill ants if sprayed directly on them but there is no residual action. When combating aphids and scale, ants are almost always present protecting and milking the insects for their sweet extract so controlling the ants is also important when trying to control these pests. I use this on plants in flower up to a day before harvest. I do give the plants a wash with water from the hose and then a spray of bottled water.

Bt
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Another bacteria grown for pest control of moth larvae. Jack's Dead Bug also works on some species of larvae but Bt works better than any other organic spray to control butterfly and moth larvae. All plants in flower past 4 weeks get sprayed weekly up to one day before harvest. Plants are sprayed with water before harvest.

Fungus control
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I used the Growers Ally (Citric acid active ingredient) but it doesn't seem to protect plants for more than a day so I switched to another bacteria that works very well controlling PM and Botrytis. With all the wet wether we've delt with the past few months I lost 4 plants to boteytis. First time I've ever had to deal with the problem and now use this Bacillus amyloliquefaciens to control all fungus including PM up to a day before harvest.

Slugs/snails
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Bait is the only pesticide I've found that works. I've buried containers in the yard filled with stale beer that did not work. Copper barriers will keep them away but I have far to many plants to use copper pipe or tape. I use a handful of bait the first of the month in my sm greenhouse, which is 6' x 9' and a couple handfuls in my lg greenhouse, 8' x 16' and in my garden as needed. I also add more after a rain. Slugs and snails have wiped out my seedlings several times through the years.

Mice and rats
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While it's true I want them DEAD. Their families DEAD that bastards are smart and difficult to control their numbers. While I do set traps to rid as many as possible when you raise chickens and compost kitchen scraps you'll have mice and rats. This device actually works by emitting a high frequency sound that the pests hate and keeps them from setting up shop in my greenhouses. I purchase them 4 at a time so when they do stop working I've got a replacement although it usually takes an attack to alert me the device needs replacing.

While most pests will attack weakened plants keeping them healthy is very important. This stuff
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Is a game changer. I used it for many years when planting new seeds or transplanting I've started using it twice a month to keep plants healthy.

This is basicly my current Integrated Pest Management system. I'm always researching and trying new products as needed to keep my plants healthy and producing quality bud for ME, and not for the bugs😘
 
Have you tried @Sierra Natural Science 209 systemic pest control? It works but you have to use it every watering. Directions say every other but I think it’s better with every time. CL🍀
I haven't but will look into it. Thank you for bringing it to my attention😘

I've found that most concentrates give the minimum amount to use and I've been doubling the recommended amounts like with neem oil.

I can't tell you how much bud I've lost through the years destroyed by bugs. The PM and fungus is fairly new to me. Never seen PM on cannabis until the past year plus and the Grey mold of Botrytis was just this past few months. It's always something and we need to stay on guard and adapt to those changes.
 
I haven't but will look into it. Thank you for bringing it to my attention😘

I've found that most concentrates give the minimum amount to use and I've been doubling the recommended amounts like with neem oil.

I can't tell you how much bud I've lost through the years destroyed by bugs. The PM and fungus is fairly new to me. Never seen PM on cannabis until the past year plus and the Grey mold of Botrytis was just this past few months. It's always something and we need to stay on guard and adapt to those changes.
@InTheShed has a recipe for citric acid for the PM that works pretty good. CL🍀
 
@InTheShed has a recipe for citric acid for the PM that works pretty good. CL🍀
I do make my own Citric acid w/ soap and oil that works well but this AG bacteria I'm loving. Once a week and no PM. I've been fighting it on all Peas grown and my wife loves sweet Peas so it's been a battle for years. I've tried most products as we don't eat the sweet Peas but even copper doesn't work as well. Really sold on the AG addition.
 
I do make my own Citric acid w/ soap and oil that works well but this AG bacteria I'm loving. Once a week and no PM. I've been fighting it on all Peas grown and my wife loves sweet Peas so it's been a battle for years. I've tried most products as we don't eat the sweet Peas but even copper doesn't work as well. Really sold on the AG addition.
I’m going to try it on my outdoor grow this year. Thanks CL🍀
 
Fun times
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Aphids. All were sprayed heavily with Captain Jack's Dead Bug. It takes a couple days and I'll continue to spray at dusk until their numbers dwindle. Wet years are the worst.
 
Only problem I have run into outdoors is Powdery Mildew and an attack of Bud Rot. Spraying with the citric acid mixture mentioned in message #4 on a regular basis starting in mid summer has helped a lot with that. I spray even if no signs of mildew are showing. While the mix is for mildew and not bud rot I have not had a bud rot issue outdoors or indoors since I started using it.

The occasional caterpillar shows up and chews on a leaf for a day or two and then moves on. Mites show up occasionally with spiders using them as a main course. Slugs and snails prefer wet wood that is starting to decompose so I use dry wood as part of the shelves that keep my pots of soil up off the cement patio and even under the pots that might be placed on soil. They do not like crawling on dry surfaces.

Aphids have attacked my Zinnias (in large pots) so I kept those flowers away from the patio. Interestingly, I have not found aphids on my Zinnias that were planted in the ground.

I use other herbs and flowers as a distraction to keep prying eyes from noticing the weed plants and they can also repel some of the nuisance insects. Also, some flowers and vegetables attract specific pests so those will occasionally be planted in a not so close area of the yard and the pest goes there instead of the patio.

I am a believer that if we try to rid an area of one pest the predators are also killed or they move somewhere else. That creates a situation where another pest can move in and reproduce rapidly. Solving that new problem with more sprays can kill off more predators and the cycle continues. I am growing vegetables and flowers to attract butterflies and pollinators and so far it is working.

Companion plants might help keep your pest problems under control and it could mean less time doing spraying chores and more time catching a buzz while sitting in a chair watching the world go by.;).

This thread might be of interest. Some of the members who posted in it are still around or checking in on occasion......
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/why-i-never-spray-for-pests.416323/
 
Only problem I have run into outdoors is Powdery Mildew and an attack of Bud Rot. Spraying with the citric acid mixture mentioned in message #4 on a regular basis starting in mid summer has helped a lot with that. I spray even if no signs of mildew are showing. While the mix is for mildew and not bud rot I have not had a bud rot issue outdoors or indoors since I started using it.

The occasional caterpillar shows up and chews on a leaf for a day or two and then moves on. Mites show up occasionally with spiders using them as a main course. Slugs and snails prefer wet wood that is starting to decompose so I use dry wood as part of the shelves that keep my pots of soil up off the cement patio and even under the pots that might be placed on soil. They do not like crawling on dry surfaces.

Aphids have attacked my Zinnias (in large pots) so I kept those flowers away from the patio. Interestingly, I have not found aphids on my Zinnias that were planted in the ground.

I use other herbs and flowers as a distraction to keep prying eyes from noticing the weed plants and they can also repel some of the nuisance insects. Also, some flowers and vegetables attract specific pests so those will occasionally be planted in a not so close area of the yard and the pest goes there instead of the patio.

I am a believer that if we try to rid an area of one pest the predators are also killed or they move somewhere else. That creates a situation where another pest can move in and reproduce rapidly. Solving that new problem with more sprays can kill off more predators and the cycle continues. I am growing vegetables and flowers to attract butterflies and pollinators and so far it is working.

Companion plants might help keep your pest problems under control and it could mean less time doing spraying chores and more time catching a buzz while sitting in a chair watching the world go by.;).

This thread might be of interest. Some of the members who posted in it are still around or checking in on occasion......
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/why-i-never-spray-for-pests.416323/
I tried that for years but found the predators do not produce the numbers needed to control an outbreak like my current aphid problem. I have pictures of buds covered with aphids from 2017. In the past moth larve have taken up to 90% of all flowers and their waste promotes Botrytis.

I'm no longer willing to share my bud with every Tom Dick and Harry bug that sets up camp😉
 
I paid $10.99 for a pound on Amazon
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We also use it in the kitchen.
Others have talked about using citric acid solution to control mold. The pH of aqueous citric acid is about 3, which is very acidic. I understand that mold likes an acidic environment. I tried using ascorbic acid solution, which didn't work. Then I tried potassium citrate solution... also didn't work. So, I'm still using 3% hydrogen peroxide in pure water, at a rate of 8 fl oz in 1/2 gal water.

Thanks for the tip on the AG bacteria.

My go to for bugs is a neem and soap solution: pure need oil and peppermint Bronner's soap, mixed in water, at the rate of 2 tbsp neem, 1 tbsp soap, in 1 gal water. Sometimes I also add a very small amount of pure orange oil (limonene), like 8 or 12 drops.
 
Others have talked about using citric acid solution to control mold. The pH of aqueous citric acid is about 3, which is very acidic.
I had been looking up that very idea just a couple of hours ago because of a link to a Rosenthal article on pH and mildew that was posted in someone's msg overnight.

What I found when I start looking it up shows that the mildews and molds do prefer a mild acidic leaf and soil surface. But if the surface pH drops into an acidic or very acidic level then the spores are less likely to attach and mildews/molds already started will begin to die off.

Here is the msg that sent me down that rabbit hole:
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/diagnose-buds-bud-rot-smoke-cloud-coming-from-cracked-bud.528323/post-5742013
 
I had been looking up that very idea just a couple of hours ago because of a link to a Rosenthal article on pH and mildew that was posted in someone's msg overnight.

What I found when I start looking it up shows that the mildews and molds do prefer a mild acidic leaf and soil surface. But if the surface pH drops into an acidic or very acidic level then the spores are less likely to attach and mildews/molds already started will begin to die off.

Here is the msg that sent me down that rabbit hole:
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/diagnose-buds-bud-rot-smoke-cloud-coming-from-cracked-bud.528323/post-5742013
This morning I took down a Mother's Milk that had a touch of Botrytis in one flower
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You can see the tell tale signs. More than likely this was caused by a moth larvae. Only flower affected and she's ready to come down.
 
I had been looking up that very idea just a couple of hours ago because of a link to a Rosenthal article on pH and mildew that was posted in someone's msg overnight.
By me... ha ha... my evening is everyone else's middle of the night (or early morning in Europe)... cuz I'm in Hawaii.
 
Right now, black leaf mold is my nemesis, in my outdoor grow here in Hawaii. It's happening all the time in my flower house... underside of the leaves. BUT... very strain specific. My little indica-dominant CBD pheno never gets it. This is a different scenario than bud rot... my Blue Dream hybrid is getting the black leaf mold, in a limited way compared to a new 90% sativa that I'm trying out. But the Blue Dream is very bud rot resistant – in the worst mold period of the year (recently), there was a bit of bud rot, but it was isolated and easy to trim out.
 
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