Organic Amare LED Grow

[Prepper420]

Hello 420Mag!! I'm Prepper420, here to share my organic LED grow!! I am vegging 6x Chemdawg, 5x Bluebell Wreck, 5 Pineapple Chunk under AMARE Technologies_High Intensity LED with Enhanced White-Light SS150 with Cree upgrade, awesome for flowering too if needed. For flower I will be using 4x SE250's in a 5'x6' closet. 6" fan/filter for exhaust. 10Gal Geopots will be the final pot size.

Seedlings

SS150

Mixing up soil over the course of a few days, so have my mix seperated up until I had everything.

Mix is:
1/3 Canadian Spaghnum Peat Moss
1/3 Quality Compost
1/3 Lava Rocks
10gals Bio-char
Amendments: Clackamas Coot Nutrient Mix with Minerals

Compost is: composted cow manure.

I think that's everything for now!

 

[Canna Montana]

Looking good over there! I hope.you don't mind me.sitting in on this grow.

 

[toxiq]

Hi there.
Just wondering would you be able to point out which seedling is the pineapple chunk? I have one about a week or two behind your's and it'd be cool to see where mine should be in a few weeks

 

[mrunwrthy]

Subbed. Just started my first grow, goal for the next is to go organic. I'm in for the ride

Sent from my 710C using 420

 

[Prepper420]

Looking good over there! I hope.you don't mind me.sitting in on this grow.

Welcome!! Happy to have you along .

 

[Prepper420]

Hi there.
Just wondering would you be able to point out which seedling is the pineapple chunk? I have one about a week or two behind your's and it'd be cool to see where mine should be in a few weeks

Welcome and it would be my pleasure, I have 5x Pineapple Chunks going, 9 days old right now.

 

[toxiq]

So pretty!!
They are 9 days from sprouting? They look great!
Do you have them on a normal veg light cycle or just keep them in brightness?

 

[Prepper420]

Subbed. Just started my first grow, goal for the next is to go organic. I'm in for the ride

Sent from my 710C using 420

Welcome Mrunworthy! Organics is very easy once you understand basics, letting the soil food web do the work of feeding your plants. I will be posting lots of organic growing info in this thread so stay tuned!! Also, things like composting, vermicomposting, charging Bio-char take weeks to be ready so you really want to plan ahead for making soil or top dressing existing pots.

 

[Prepper420]

Watering: I use plain well water throughout the week as needed.

I use Aloe Vera once a week in watering and foliar sprays.

Malted Barley Grain (MBG), ground up and top dressed, watered in once a week.

Coconut water once a week.

Will also be using a Neem cake/Kelp meal tea once a month for plant nutrition and IPM (Intergrated Pest Management)

Fermented Plant Juice (FPJ) made from Dandelion leaves and Compost Teas will made as needed.

Will post lots of info on all this later once I have internet and can use my iPad lol

 

[Prepper420]

So pretty!!
They are 9 days from sprouting? They look great!
Do you have them on a normal veg light cycle or just keep them in brightness?

9 days from popping out of the soil, lights are on 24/0 on the veg spectrum of the SS150 Cree. I keep my seedlings under their own light, having them off to the sides always stretches them out for me, and I love the tight node spacing LED provides, I like to start them off under the light at 30" and then after a few days lower it to 24".

 

[millertm]

Pulling up a chair. Let's get these beans up.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

 

[Prepper420]

Pulling up a chair. Let's get these beans up.

Cheers

Sent from my SPH-L720T using 420

Glad to have you

 

[Prepper420]

Looking so good!!

Soil mixed and loaded into 10Gal Geopots.

 

[Prepper420]

Helping my roomie with his 4'x4' Gorrila Tent, going to have 4x Solar Spec 150 Cree in here and light it up like the sun.

Plants are looking great, big enough to start IPM on!

 

[mrunwrthy]

Looking good prepper. Can't wait until my seedling takes off

Sent from my 710C using 420

 

[Prepper420]

Now that I have internet at my new place, will be dropping some knowledge bombs on this thread!! So stick around!!

Spouted Seed Tea: (SST)


Seeds have all the enzymes ready to create life and we can harness this with sprouts. Think of this as a do it yourself enzyme tea that costs pennies.


This super seed tea will change your game completely and is worth the extra time it takes. Use this weekly or at least once per month especially towards the finish of your plants.


Organic Barley Seeds, Corn Seeds, Legumes, really anything but it works best with barley because barley is cheap and also high in nutrients. Seeds are encoded by the host plant with an extensive array of enzymes including chitinase which is a big reason to use malted grain teas. A developing seedling cannot absorb (or adsorb) anything from the soil since it has no root system.


Barley Seeds contain Chitinase which deconstructs chitin. This enzyme breaks down the the insect's outer 'shell' which is made from chitin. When a plant detects chitin it produces this enzyme in huge amounts and this is one way that plants produce their own insecticides and fungicides in the soil.


Flowering plants create terpenes, terpenoids and ketones to fight off insects and fungi on the leaves and branches. Other plants (trees) create Secondary Metabolites like the compounds found in neem trees, turpentine in some pine tree cultivars (but not all), willow tree shoots (salicylic acid which some researchers are now calling a plant hormone) and the enzymes and compounds in aloe vera, kelp meal, et al.


So the benefit is from the enzyme and indirectly from the chitin itself via bacterial actions. Besides this enzyme in germinating seeds you should look at the other big 3 in germinating seeds - urease, protease and phosphatase to round out the beneficial enzymes in seeds.

Enzymes are made from Amino Acids & they are proteins. When an Enzyme is formed, it is made by stringing together between 100 & 1000 Amino Acids in a very specific & unique order. The chain of Amino Acids then fold into a unique shape. That shape allows the Enzyme to carry out specific chemical reactions. An Enzyme acts as a very efficient catalyst for a specific chemical reaction. The Enzyme also speeds that reaction up tremendously. For example, the sugar Maltose is made from two Glucose molecules bonded together. The Enzyme Maltase is shaped in such a way that it can break the bond & free the two Glucose pieces. The only thing Maltase can do is break Maltose molecules, but it can do that very rapidly & efficiently. Other types of Enzymes can put atoms & molecules together. Breaking molecules apart & putting molecules together is what Enzymes do & there is a specific Enzyme for each chemical reaction needed to make a cell work properly.

Enzymes are NOT Microbes & they are NOT alive, they are specialized Proteins!

Earthworms lack teeth & sufficient digestive Enzymes of their own. Relying instead on microorganisms to begin to rot & soften organic matter so it can be ingested. Then relying on naturally occurring Bacteria & Fungi in their gut to digest their food. In the process of taking in this biologically active predigested organic matter. The earthworm also ingests small particles of sand & soil, which lodge in their gizzard. As the organic matter & Microbial life coating it move past this gizzard they are ground against the gritty particles lodged there & fragmented into smaller pieces. Making them easier for the gut organisms to digest. Researchers now understand that it is not from the organic matter itself, but from the bodies of Microbial life rotting the organic matter that the worms derive the bulk of their most vital nutrients. Once thought to be detritus (debris) feeders, we now understand that the earthworm is actually a predator of Microbial life. Relying on microscopic Bacteria, Fungi, Protozoa & Algae as their major sources of nutrition. Thus, anything that will support Microbial activity, that is, anything that rots, is potentially suitable food for earthworms. Materials that support the greatest level of earthworm activity are those that support the greatest & most diverse populations of Microbial life. Worms actually exude specific Enzymes into the food stock to trigger specific responses
There are other specific attributes that pureed seeds can offer aside from the enzyme "boost" & its not necessarily specific to just the seeds but to the plant as a whole. You can use Corn for Cytokinins, which may just be specific to just the corn itself. Coconut water is an excellent source of Cytokinins as well. Alfalfa for Triacontanol, a PGR (Plant Growth Regulator), Fenugreek for its Nicotinic acid (insecticidal properties) & Caryophyllene which is a big part of cannabis essential oil, up to 36%!!
you would get a much larger, all around benefit from taking your sprouts, pureeing them and mixing them with water. The general amount is 2 Tablespoons of seeds per gallon of water you plan on using. Then after watering you can take the left over spent material at the bottom of your container and top dress it around the plants. As it breaks down thru Microbial action your worms will eat it and you not only get the increased Cytokinin benefit by watering with it but then your still using it like you have been as worm food.

Corn has cytokinins and barley has a-amylases and b-amylases.

Cytokinins, Auxins & Giberellins.
"Auxins:
Auxins are produced in significant quantities in the upper growth regions of plants, promoting cell elongation. It travels from the shoot tip to the base when the plant is actively growing. It plays a role in the formation of plant roots.
IAA is an auxin in it's natural state. Synthetic rooting hormones contain compounds such as IBA typically ranging in concentrations from 1000-10,000 ppm. When cuttings are taken, and dipped for rooting, here's part of what happens:
The plant stops growing stem tissue. The cells that have been developing but have not yet been dedicated to any specific type of growth (i.e. stem development) are stimulated by the auxin such as IBA to become roots. These cells are now set to grow roots, and will further multiply and develop to produce a healthy root system, which will develop hormones that influence the upper development of the plant. Synthetic auxins sprayed on tomato vines will allow fruit to develop without pollination. Auxin that is usually produced by the seeds has been replaced, so no seeds will develop. An overdose of auxin will actually inhibit cell elongation, because the plant will produce another hormone to try and balance the act. When applied to seeds, auxins also help to promote femaleness in dioecious plants (plants having females and males). The concentration of auxin is usually highest at the main growing point of the plant, surpressing lateral/side shoot growth. Growers have often pinched the tips of the plants in order to promote extensive branching and to keep plants short and sturdy. Bending and tying the growing point downwards will also have a similar effect without damaging the concentration of auxins within the plant.


Cytokinins:
Cytokinins are produced in the plant's roots and move upwards through the plant to the growing tips. As the roots system grows larger, it produces more cytokinins, which in turn, signals the plant to grow and branch more. As the plant continues to grow and branch, it produces more auxin in the growing points. Remember auxin influences root development, so the plant grows more roots, producing more cytokinin, etc. Less cytokinin with more auxin signals root growth. More cytokinin, less auxin triggers more shoot growth. Kelp meal is a natural source of cytokinins. Kelp based products contain kelp extracts in easy to apply liquids. Additions of these products at the roots during the vegetative stage will result in rapid growth and branching. It is best applied to the root zone, but a quick foiliar spray can be used to perk up growth. A fine spray in early flowering will help to build the framework for a bountiful harvest, as it plays a role in longevity of plants. Flowering might be slightly extended, adding to the quality and results. During the vegetative stage an abundance of cytokinins will help to remove dominance (due to higher concentrations of auxin) from the main growing tip, leading to bushier plants.

Applications of cytokinins can reduce aging in plants and can improve the shelf life of vegetables and cut flowers.

Giberellins:
Giberellins are produced by the roots and growing leaves. It promotes cell elongation and cell division. In seeds, it is activated by water and helps to break seed dormancy leading to germination. Some plants such as lettuce, in high temperature will "bolt" growing an upright seed stock, this can be attributed to an abundance of gibberellins.
In dioecious plant species (those types of plants having females and males) the application of giberellic acid ( typically foiliar sprays) can cause female plants to develop male flowers, thus, pollinating themselves. These plants generally turn out to be all female. So if a grower has two different or same types of a favorite specimen, they can apply giberellic acid as a spray once or twice during flowering. The plants should only be harvested for their pollen for transfer to an unsprayed and desirable female. The offspring might be more susceptible to hermaphordism (both male and female flowers on the same plant) than their parent under environmental stress such as photoperiod interruptions or being root bound."


I use Aloe Vera because it brings Salicylic Acid (SA) to the mix as well as its surfactant compounds (Saponins, freaking love Saponins!). Barley seeds contain A-Amylase & B-Amylase which are Enzymes that catalyzes the hydrolysis of starch into sugars. Malted grains contain the Enzyme Chitinase. Chitinase & SA create a pathway that increases a plants SAR (Systemic Acquired Resistance) which basically means a plants defense system against pathogenic Fungi & suppresses insect damage. Fulvic acid pushes the functions of plant Enzymes as far as possible. Beyond that once inside the plants vascular system FA triggers specific RNA responses which provides for several benefits in overall health, ion absorption & adsorption efficiencies, etc. Silica because it increases cell strength, the cell wall in plants is a substantial barrier that must be breached to gain access to the passing nutrients within. A Fungal pathogen must drill through this wall with its hyphae to be able to tap into the nutritious cell center. Once this goal is achieved, the pest has the food source that sponsors its spread, & a disease is born. When a disease begins, the plant directs all available Silicon to the attack site to strengthen the surrounding cell walls & stop or slow the spread of the pathogen. The problem is, because Silicon is immobile once incorporated into the cell wall. It must be in constant supply so the plant can utilize it at these times. On top of increased cell strength Silica increases stress resistance, boosts photosynthesis & chlorophyll content, improves drought resistance, increases salt tolerance & soil fertility & prevents lodging. Can also reduce insect pressure, frost damage & destructive disease while lowering irrigation rates, neutralizing heavy metal toxicity & countering the negative effects of excess sodium. The list could really go on and on for each of these items & there are numerous benefits!


Soap Nuts
More Saponins! Super high levels of Saponins which trigger a plants SAR, their defense system. Here are some comparisons of saponin levels in different materials.

Alfalfa - 20,000 ppm
Aloe Vera - 30,000 ppm
Yucca Extract - 40,000 ppm
Horse Chestnuts - 140,000 ppm
Soap Nuts - 240,000 ppm


Not expecting any specific visible results other than continued healthy and vigor, and naturally stronger pest resistant plants. DO NOT AERATE THIS for long than 10 mins, it's called "soap" nut powder for a reason. First time I did that, got to water my plants and mop the floor. I also use The powder to wash clothes, 1 tsp per load of clothes. 2 tsp for the really dirty clothes.


Pesticides
Having a regularly scheduled time to spray your plants is very important in the IPM program. It varies grower to grower, I would suggest every week for younger plants and outdoors. Every 2 weeks will work nicely indoors also. I stop spraying at the 4-5th week of flowering so as not to damage the buds or create mold problems.


Foiler sprays
For IPM (every 7-14 days until the 3rd/4th week of flowering.)
Per 1 gal of water add:
1 tablespoon Neem Oil
2 teaspoons Silica
1/4 cup Aloe Vera juice


Stir Neem Oil and Silica in a shot-glass with a bamboo kabob stick (the flat end) until the oil changes color and opacity. Turns a creamy color.
Mix that in 1 gallon 80F water with the Aloe Vera juice for its surfactant compounds (saponins) and stir thoroughly.
Use all of it, do not store.


For washing dust off plants
Per 1 gal of water add;
5ml Silica
1/4 cup Aloe Vera Juice
10ml fulpower fulvic acid


You need to spray as close to 'lights out' as possible. This is because both the fungicide and insecticide compounds degrade quickly in strong light. By letting the material remain on the leaves in the dark you will greatly enhance the efficiency.


If you're trying to eradicate Spider mites you must apply every 96 hours until you have completed 4 applications. 4 is the number required to break the adult-egg-larva cycle.

Neem Oil does work, but the way it works is different from other insecticides. Neem is not an instant, knock down, kill everything pesticide.
Neem oil has many complex active ingredients. Rather than being simple poisons, those ingredients are similar to the hormones that insects produce. Insects take up the neem oil ingredients just like natural hormones.
Neem enters the system and blocks the real hormones from working properly. Insects "forget" to eat, to mate, or they stop laying eggs. Some forget that they can fly. If eggs are produced they don't hatch, or the larvae don't molt.
Obviously insects that are too confused to eat or breed will not survive. The population eventually plummets, and they disappear. The cycle is broken.
How precisely it works is difficult for scientists to find out. There are too many different active substances in neem oil, and every insect species reacts differently to neem insecticide.
Neem oil does not hurt beneficial insects. Only chewing and sucking insects are affected. Neem stops insects from eating the plants.
Part of this action is due to to the hormone like action of neem oil that I explained above. Insects "forget" to eat after they've been in contact with even traces of neem oil.
But it is also the presence, the mere hint of a smell of neem oil, that seems to be enough to keep leaf eating insects away. Neem oil can be very powerful as an anti-feedant and insect repellent.
This anti-feedant property is one of the most often advertised and lauded properties of neem oil insecticide. However, the hormonal effects I described above are even stronger.
Neem oil as an insect deterrent works well against grasshoppers and leafhoppers, but all other insect pests are controlled mostly through the hormone action. The hormonal effect is where the real power of neem oil lies. It's the key to neem oil being an effective insecticide and good for the environment at the same time. It's also important to understand this effect to use neem oil insecticide correctly.
The subtlety of the hormonal effects, and the fact that they may take days or weeks to manifest, makes people overlook them. Ill informed gardeners seek instant gratification, i.e. lots of dead insects immediately, rather than a balanced environment in the long run.


Essential Oils as Green Pesticide
Essential oil constituents are primarily lipophilic compounds that act as toxins, feeding deterrents and oviposition deterrents to a wide variety of insect-pests. In fact, pesticides derived from plant essential oils do have several important benefits. Due to their volatile nature, there is a much lower level of risk to the environment than with current synthetic pesticides. Predator, parasitoid and pollinator insect populations will be less impacted because of the minimal residual activity, making essential-oil-based pesticides compatible with integrated pest management programs. There are several examples of essential oils like that of rose (Rosa damascene), patchouli (Pogostemon patchouli), sandalwood (Santalum album), lavender (Lavendula officinalis), geranium (Pelargonium graveolens), etc. that are well known in perfumery and fragrance industry. Other essential oils such as lemon grass (Cimbopogon winteriana), Eulcalyptus globulus, rosemary (Rosemarinus officinalis), vetiver (Vetiveria zizanoides), clove (Eugenia caryophyllus) and thyme (Thymus vulgaris) are known for their pest control properties. While peppermint (Mentha piperita) repels ants, flies, lice and moths; pennyroyal (Mentha pulegium) wards off fleas, ants, lice, mosquitoes, ticks and moths. Spearmint (Mentha spicata) and basil (Ocimum basilicum) are also effective in warding off flies. Similarly, essential oil bearing plants like Artemesia vulgaris, Melaleuca leucadendron, Pelargonium ros- eum, Lavandula angustifolia, Mentha piperita, and Juniperus virginiana are also effective against various insects and fungal pathogens (Kordali et al., 2005).


Citronella (Cymbopogon nardus) essential oil has been used for over fifty years both as an insect repellent and an animal repellent. Combining few drops each of citronella, lemon (Citrus limon), rose (Rosa damascena), lavender and basil essential oils with one liter of distilled water is effective to ward off indoor insect pests. The larvicidal activity of citronella oil has been mainly attributed to its major monoterpenic constituent citronellal (Zaridah et al., 2003).

 

[jaymu86]

Hello 420Mag!! I'm Prepper420, here to share my organic LED grow!! I am vegging 6x Chemdawg, 5x Bluebell Wreck, 5 Pineapple Chunk under AMARE Technologies_High Intensity LED with Enhanced White-Light SS150 with Cree upgrade, awesome for flowering too if needed. For flower I will be using 4x SE250's in a 5'x6' closet. 6" fan/filter for exhaust. 10Gal Geopots will be the final pot size.

Seedlings

SS150

Mixing up soil over the course of a few days, so have my mix seperated up until I had everything.

Mix is:
1/3 Canadian Spaghnum Peat Moss
1/3 Quality Compost
1/3 Lava Rocks
10gals Bio-char
Amendments: Clackamas Coot Nutrient Mix with Minerals

Compost is: composted cow manure.

I think that's everything for now!

It's my mf man prepper wat up dude n I see u came on to the amare family

 

[Prepper420]

It's my mf man prepper wat up dude n I see u came on to the amare family

Hey Jaymu!! How's it hanging? Been rocking the Amare's SS150's w/ Cree and they kicked ass!!

So I talked to Amare Tech about my new flower room 5'x6' and I am going to be testing their brand new SE250 (covers a 5'x2', getting 4x of them for total wall to wall coverage!) being built right now, wish I could post the pics and PAR info but I have to keep it to myself until I get the lights in a few weeks!! Lol

Amare Tech does offer Veterans a -20% off discount for their service!!

It's my mf man prepper wat up dude n I see u came on to the amare family

 

[Prepper420]

Working in my grow room, figure I can do 8 plants in 10gals and still have room to walk in and work on them. Still have to make a hole in the wall to vent my 6" fan outside and run a heavy duty extension cord into here to power everything and I'll be ready for my lights to get here in the next couple of weeks.

 

[jaymu86]

Hey Jaymu!! How's it hanging? Been rocking the Amare's SS150's w/ Cree and they kicked ass!!

So I talked to Amare Tech about my new flower room 5'x6' and I am going to be testing their brand new SE250 (covers a 5'x2', getting 4x of them for total wall to wall coverage!) being built right now, wish I could post the pics and PAR info but I have to keep it to myself until I get the lights in a few weeks!! Lol

Amare Tech does offer Veterans a -20% off discount for their service!!

Oh yeah I've Seen them n damn