Nutrient Deficiency?

garrywithtwors

420 Member
Not sure what's goin on with this plant. I encountered the same issue on my last grow but MUCH later, like around week 10/11. Now it's only week 3/4 and some of my leaves are lookin like trash. It's already got cal mag in it. I've been usin the GH trio. PPM is around 675 and PH hovers between 5.8 and 6. Lights are about 24-30 inches above the plant. Temp hovers between 75-80 and rh stays between 50-60%. Any ideas?

tree2.jpeg


tree1.jpeg
 
Kick it up to 800 and monitor closely. What does the nute line say?
You may be right. Even on a light feed it says I'm supposed to be between 700-900 ppm. Last grow I was using tap. This time I'm experimenting with RO. I was feedin the same amount of nutes to both but obviously this one is gonna need more. I neglected lookin at the actual feedin chart though as I had written my own down. Gonna follow this more closely next time

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Handy picture I snagged from @EZCalyx

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I've looked at this picture for so long now it makes me crosseyed 😂 It hella looks somewhere between Calcium, Magnesium, and Manganese. It's appearing on older leaves primarily so I was leaning toward CalMag, but the fact that I've been putting proper amounts of CalMag in the res leaves me confused. Like maybe somethin else is hindering the uptake of CalMag?
 
Septoria is bad news.

Septoria cannabis is a species of plant pathogen from the genus Septoria that causes the disease commonly known as Septoria leaf spot. Early symptoms of infection are concentric white lesions on the vegetative leaves of cannabis plants, followed by chlorosis and necrosis of the leaf until it is ultimately overcome by disease and all living cells are then killed. Septoria, which is an ascomycete and pycnidia producing fungus, has been well known to attack Solanaceae and Cucurbitaceae species as well as many tree species. This genus is known to comprise over 1,000 species of pathogens, each infecting a specific and unique host.

The management associated with Septoria of tomato is very similar to that of Septoria cannabis. To avoid this disease, you must eliminate survival structures which are dead and decaying leaves or organic matter around the area which you are growing.[7] Sanitation of your growing area can make all of the difference when battling diseases of any nature. Many diseases like Septoria thrive in an area that provides excess decaying material, by removing dead leaves you are leaving the disease with less survival structures. Since Septoria relies on the proximity of suitable hosts, increasing the spacing of your cannabis plants and rotating crops annually will decrease the likelihood that the disease will move next door.[7] The use of fungicides (Bordeaux Mixture, or Daconil 2787)[6] are also applicable when the disease has infected your plants. Good practices such as avoiding overhead irrigation, especially before dusk, will decrease the amount of stagnant water on your leaves that can trap windblown conidia spores. Eliminating survival structures that ascospores rely on is the most important aspect in disease control for Septoria and this can be accomplished by covering your growing area in mulch or burying/disposing plant debris.
 
Other areas I poke around


 
Septoria is bad news.

Septoria cannabis is a species of plant pathogen from the genus Septoria that causes the disease commonly known as Septoria leaf spot. Early symptoms of infection are concentric white lesions on the vegetative leaves of cannabis plants, followed by chlorosis and necrosis of the leaf until it is ultimately overcome by disease and all living cells are then killed. Septoria, which is an ascomycete and pycnidia producing fungus, has been well known to attack Solanaceae and Cucurbitaceae species as well as many tree species. This genus is known to comprise over 1,000 species of pathogens, each infecting a specific and unique host.

The management associated with Septoria of tomato is very similar to that of Septoria cannabis. To avoid this disease, you must eliminate survival structures which are dead and decaying leaves or organic matter around the area which you are growing.[7] Sanitation of your growing area can make all of the difference when battling diseases of any nature. Many diseases like Septoria thrive in an area that provides excess decaying material, by removing dead leaves you are leaving the disease with less survival structures. Since Septoria relies on the proximity of suitable hosts, increasing the spacing of your cannabis plants and rotating crops annually will decrease the likelihood that the disease will move next door.[7] The use of fungicides (Bordeaux Mixture, or Daconil 2787)[6] are also applicable when the disease has infected your plants. Good practices such as avoiding overhead irrigation, especially before dusk, will decrease the amount of stagnant water on your leaves that can trap windblown conidia spores. Eliminating survival structures that ascospores rely on is the most important aspect in disease control for Septoria and this can be accomplished by covering your growing area in mulch or burying/disposing plant debris.
See the more I read about septoria the less I think it's that. Nothing about this was white from the beginning. IF anything, it started off as a super dark blue/black and then began to lighten up to brown/tan/yellow
 
See the more I read about septoria the less I think it's that. Nothing about this was white from the beginning. IF anything, it started off as a super dark blue/black and then began to lighten up to brown/tan/yellow
I would go the nute route first and see what happens. Make sure to strip those leafs to see if the prob reoccurs
 
I would go the nute route first and see what happens. Make sure to strip those leafs to see if the prob reoccurs
I would leave some of the yellow leaves, if it’s a nute problem (too little) the leaves may start to green up, and you’ll know you’re winning should happen quickly. I’d go 900 ppm’s or more if the nute line says 700-900 is light feeding.
 
I would leave some of the yellow leaves, if it’s a nute problem (too little) the leaves may start to green up, and you’ll know you’re winning should happen quickly. I’d go 900 ppm’s or more if the nute line says 700-900 is light feeding.
Fa sho! I'm bout to kick it up a notch and do the exact measurements on the line. I'll update yall next week!
 
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