Nutes to Cycles

[Skybound]

Hello all, I am building what I think to be a kick ass stealth box to increase my chance of success for my very first grow. I've been studying cultivation of this plant for about a decade and finally am in position to make it all happen, but before I get in over my head, I wanted dot my I's and cross my Tee's so to speak. In the gallery you can see my plans for my box and growing environment, but the question I want to pose is this.

It is my understanding that there are 3 general cycles of a plant, a) seedling/rooting, b) vegetative, and c) flowering. I already have on my shopping list Advanced Nutrients Jungle Juice Grow and Bloom. Will either of these be good for a seedling or new clone? I think not, but don't know exactly. I've seen in other posts/threads where straight ph appropriate water is used for about the first 10 days or so then nutes are introduced @ about 200 PPM, would the Grow juice be appropriate, or is there something that would do the younglings better?

TYIA

Pt. 1 - SB Stealth Box pt 1
Pt. 2 - SB Stealth Box pt 2

 

[Coke420]

You can use the camera icon in the reply box to post pictures on the forum instead of links
Your giving to want to get something for the veg cycle

 

[Skybound]

You can use the camera icon in the reply box to post pictures on the forum instead of links
Your giving to want to get something for the veg cycle

I tried using the paste URL button, but on my screen it appeared that the links did not relay and did not want to be misunderstood.

I don't comprehend the second part, that I'm giving to want to get something from the veg cycle. Is there a miscomprehension in my understanding of cycles?

Thanks for speedy reply

 

[Coke420]

Sorry misread your post I would just give new clones and seedlings fresh water to start off

 

[GreatLife4All]

I looked at your pictures.

You will have to do a little planning to make that system work, IMO.

It is going to be a real hassle moving the rubbermaid tub that you have. Also, I don't believe that a rubber maid tub can be supported on just the two sides like you are planning - they are very weak when you get water in them.

Water weighs approximately 8.5lbs per gallon. If that is a 10 gallon tub - you are supporting 85 lbs of weight with two thin rails and cheap plastic - I predict a disaster where you come in one morning and find water everywhere.

Rubbermaid tubs MUST be kept on the floor in order to provide support for the rated capacity.

 

[GreatLife4All]

I have a different opinion than Coke420 on feeding young plants.

Clones should be started out at the same PPM as the mother after they get roots.

Seedlings, unless they are grown in soil, require nutrients within a couple of days (2 to 3 at most) or you are affecting growth. Don't believe me - take two seeds and germinate them side by side. Put nutrients into one immediately (starting at approximately 300PPMs) and just add water to the other. Wait ten days and take pictures and then post. The difference will be very obvious in hydro and very little difference (if any) in soil.

You can then increase this by 100PPMs per week initially, and eventually 200PPMs per week to a maximum of 1000-1200PPMs for veg (unless you are familiar with the strain that you are growing - stay at a max of 1000ppms).

There are many different nutrient companies - all of which have a formulation for seedlings. It is typically 1/4 to 1/2 of the rate that you would use for mature plants. Which makes sense - if you are planning on feedling the plant 1000PPMs by the end of veg, then a 1/4 rate of that same fertilizer will produce 250ppms).

 

[Skybound]

Thank you for the above replies. I did find a severe design flaw in the air purification that I had to completely revamp, however I am sticking to my guns for the time being of how to support the bucket. What I likely failed to communicate was that I am using an aeroponic system. The design originally called for a 14 gallon Rubbermaid, due to a small lid I am going to increase that to the 18 gallon. The designs I've seen of the DIY areoponic buckets call for the buckets to only be filled roughly 1/3 of the reservoir with the remaining 2/3 for misting and root aeration. 18/3=6 gallons, 6 gallons @ 8.31lbs = 49.90 lbs, 50 to round off, plus the weight of pump, air stone and 4 plants, I think will put me in a safe range. The entire bucket is supported by a single piece of 1/2" to 3/4" plywood, which is then supported by the 2 side rails. Being as though I will have the side walls spaced for ducting, the added ribbing will make them a lot more structurally sound and will be more than capable of managing that weight. To leave nothing to chance, I will do a few tests to see if I can lower the bucket in 3 inch increments starting at it's highest point and work my way to the floor. If I can practically achieve this, I will stay with the design. Research has lead me to believe that keeping the canopy as close to the light as possible will result in better quality at higher yields. Moving the light in the space of 30 square inches I believe would be a nightmare to effectively vent. I will share my findings one way or the other though.

 

[GreatLife4All]

If I can practically achieve this, I will stay with the design. Research has lead me to believe that keeping the canopy as close to the light as possible will result in better quality at higher yields. Moving the light in the space of 30 square inches I believe would be a nightmare to effectively vent. I will share my findings one way or the other though.

I honestly believe that it is far easier to move the light than the entire tub, pumps, and etc.

I would assume that you are not planning on using an air cooled reflector?

And I have run my light by moving it every day... I have also calculated the height of the light, placed it there, and never moved it during veg or flower stage. It really doesn't seem to make much difference in yield - at least that I have been able to detect. And if you get busy and don't move the light one day - you get leaf burn on the top - which decreases yield VERY signficantly.

I think moving the light to the top of the canopy is highly over-rated on HID lights. Because of the lower output of CFLs - keeping the light close is undoubtedly needed when using this as a light source.

I am very interested in your grow and build - keep us posted as you go.

 

[Skybound]

Luckily my job (on call for salary) ((not a dealer)) affords me all this time to read read read. Initially I was going with an open reflector package from discount hydro, but have since found a site called hpsgrowlightstore.com and my eyes are bright and wide. bigger selections, better package deals and waaaay cheaper. With that said, I have since changed my plan to an enclosed vented hood (that comes with MH & HPS bulbs). I am a proponent of straight line air movement when at all possible, but I will see what I can come up with. I do however, not like those aluminum slinky like ducts. I know they tear easy and create a lot of turbulence within, so I feel the need to find a good work around if I decide to move the sun instead of the earth.