SpeesCees
Well-Known Member
No Mercy Supply 12/12 hour system
Sometimes I can’t understand that growers still stick to old growing techniques.
One of these old growing techniques is to work with cuttings. With those cuttings you have to rely on what the market has to offer you.
Apart from that, you have to ask yourself if you really got what they told you they should give.
Also you often get spider mites and/or thrips for free.
And on top of that the price of cuttings has gone up dramatically over the last years.
And then…….. you have to hope they “catch on” immediately.
Most of the time this is not the case and you see them “catch on” only after about a week to 10 days.
Years ago I wrote: we are returning to seed culture instead of cuttings.
And see… I’ve seen signs left and right that I was telling the truth back then.
GO AND WORK WITH SEED!
It’s cheaper, easier, anonymous and legal, no more waiting and carrying around suspicious wet boxes, no more spider mite/thrips. Your growing rooms don’t stay empty unnessarily, and for sure you harvest more than from cuttings. And if you do it right, you can harvest 7x a year, etc, etc, etc.
How?
Just by using the tricks of Mother Nature!
Assume that seed in cold ground needs 5 to 10 weeks before it chooses its sex.
With 12 hours of light you can force them to choose there sex right away.
Mount a preferably in height-adjustable light fixture with 4-5 fluorescent lights over your seedlings in your flowering room.
The best fluorescent lights are 3x Philips cool white 33 ( NOT "deluxe") and 2x Philips 83 or 84 !
Your “lighting store” knows exactly what you mean and they are not expensive.
Have the tubes run on the same 12 hours as your flowering space by using a timer.
This way you prevent bad light and getting herma`s.
Use pots size 9x9 cm or 10x10 cm in which you put 1 seed.
Sow 3 seeds for every 2 females you need, 20 days before you harvest. Use good sowing/cutting soil with clay in it!
Be sure your medium isn’t overfed. An EC of 0.5-0.7 is ok, and in this figure I include the ballast from the tapwater.
With the fluorescent lights right above their heads you’ll be amazed how well the seedlings will develop on 12/12 hours….. and directly choose to be male or female.
That’s why you can weed out the males on the 16-17th day. After 20 days even the biggest noob can recognize the males and get them out.
Don’t be afraid of pollination… females are always receptive a bit later than the males to release their pollen. In the worst case there can grow just one seed in a node of the plant through pollination of a female that chose sex.
They always show their sex in the node by creating one female flower. (Apparently there is a reason for this)
After you have harvested your flowering room… you can put the female seedlings right from under the fluorescents into the 12/12 flowering regi me the same day, so you don’t lose any time.
Because the new “batch” of females are already flowering for 2,5 weeks… you only have 7 weeks to go to your next harvest!
In the meantime (20 days before harvesting) you have again sown seeds and the process repeats.
The result: You get more compact plants without all the lateral branches that take lots of space, take away light and cause a lot of cutting work.
A seedling which is put on 12/12 straight away will only make one big bud of 50-70 cm without lateral branches.
SO…you can put more plants on a square meter because they don’t stand in each others way!
If you start realizing that 85% of the weight comes from the main bud… you’ll understand this system and will seriously consider using it.
Bigger growers can always make a deal about the price of the seed. (Think about that)
Resuming this story: harvesting 7x a year without spider mites/thrips and all that trouble, a much better end result and a lot less bud cleaning to do.
Don’t forget that seedlings have a taproot by nature… and that makes a big difference.
There will be questions about this… we will see.
If you are one of the naughty boys that puts 6 instead of 5 plants make an appointment and get yourself some info.
Sometimes I can’t understand that growers still stick to old growing techniques.
One of these old growing techniques is to work with cuttings. With those cuttings you have to rely on what the market has to offer you.
Apart from that, you have to ask yourself if you really got what they told you they should give.
Also you often get spider mites and/or thrips for free.
And on top of that the price of cuttings has gone up dramatically over the last years.
And then…….. you have to hope they “catch on” immediately.
Most of the time this is not the case and you see them “catch on” only after about a week to 10 days.
Years ago I wrote: we are returning to seed culture instead of cuttings.
And see… I’ve seen signs left and right that I was telling the truth back then.
GO AND WORK WITH SEED!
It’s cheaper, easier, anonymous and legal, no more waiting and carrying around suspicious wet boxes, no more spider mite/thrips. Your growing rooms don’t stay empty unnessarily, and for sure you harvest more than from cuttings. And if you do it right, you can harvest 7x a year, etc, etc, etc.
How?
Just by using the tricks of Mother Nature!
Assume that seed in cold ground needs 5 to 10 weeks before it chooses its sex.
With 12 hours of light you can force them to choose there sex right away.
Mount a preferably in height-adjustable light fixture with 4-5 fluorescent lights over your seedlings in your flowering room.
The best fluorescent lights are 3x Philips cool white 33 ( NOT "deluxe") and 2x Philips 83 or 84 !
Your “lighting store” knows exactly what you mean and they are not expensive.
Have the tubes run on the same 12 hours as your flowering space by using a timer.
This way you prevent bad light and getting herma`s.
Use pots size 9x9 cm or 10x10 cm in which you put 1 seed.
Sow 3 seeds for every 2 females you need, 20 days before you harvest. Use good sowing/cutting soil with clay in it!
Be sure your medium isn’t overfed. An EC of 0.5-0.7 is ok, and in this figure I include the ballast from the tapwater.
With the fluorescent lights right above their heads you’ll be amazed how well the seedlings will develop on 12/12 hours….. and directly choose to be male or female.
That’s why you can weed out the males on the 16-17th day. After 20 days even the biggest noob can recognize the males and get them out.
Don’t be afraid of pollination… females are always receptive a bit later than the males to release their pollen. In the worst case there can grow just one seed in a node of the plant through pollination of a female that chose sex.
They always show their sex in the node by creating one female flower. (Apparently there is a reason for this)
After you have harvested your flowering room… you can put the female seedlings right from under the fluorescents into the 12/12 flowering regi me the same day, so you don’t lose any time.
Because the new “batch” of females are already flowering for 2,5 weeks… you only have 7 weeks to go to your next harvest!
In the meantime (20 days before harvesting) you have again sown seeds and the process repeats.
The result: You get more compact plants without all the lateral branches that take lots of space, take away light and cause a lot of cutting work.
A seedling which is put on 12/12 straight away will only make one big bud of 50-70 cm without lateral branches.
SO…you can put more plants on a square meter because they don’t stand in each others way!
If you start realizing that 85% of the weight comes from the main bud… you’ll understand this system and will seriously consider using it.
Bigger growers can always make a deal about the price of the seed. (Think about that)
Resuming this story: harvesting 7x a year without spider mites/thrips and all that trouble, a much better end result and a lot less bud cleaning to do.
Don’t forget that seedlings have a taproot by nature… and that makes a big difference.
There will be questions about this… we will see.
If you are one of the naughty boys that puts 6 instead of 5 plants make an appointment and get yourself some info.
