Newbie Grower, Carmen Auto x Diva, Outdoors

Oh, OK. Good.

The fish water ferments (Jadam style) are applied at a rate of 1:100 up to 1:1,000.

They are stronger than the plant extracts that often start out at 1:20 and so need to be diluted more.
Perfect. Thanks!
 
Good question... I'm guessing those seed-to-harvest specs aren't set in stone. Surely autos can throw different phenotypes, so that may account for variation.
Hahaha, yeah, but 93 days?? Hahaha.
I wrote to Barney's Farm. We will see what (and if) they say.
 
Hahaha! No, sorry!
We can buy trout when we go into the small town here. They sell three farmed trout for like $4 USD, and it is a nice change from eggs and fish (and the beef is like shoe leather here--serious mountain cows), so the trout makes a nice change.
So we can get some next week, and then I can put all three heads and guts in liter jars, and just put a teaspoon of wc in each one, cover with water that has set out for 24 hours, and then cap her, and put her in the shade for six months.
Then each time we do fish (maybe once a month or two?) we can start a new jar, and set it aside for six months. But it would be great to know the application rate (1:200??), so I can mark the jar at the time the ferment is made.
So are there recommended ratios for application?
Sorry, I was scrolling back to look and see if you already gave me the ratio. I am not real sure how to work the advanced search.
I should also mention that with fish you should use more water than you do with plant matter.

2:1 water:fish, vs 1:1 for plant matter.

Plus the microbes of course.
 
I should also mention that with fish you should use more water than you do with plant matter.

2:1 water:fish, vs 1:1 for plant matter.

Plus the microbes of course.
Hmmm......
Thank you very much for telling me. I was thinking that that panela (cane sugar) syrup was pretty thick as it was, and I was wondering if that might not need some more water.
In that case, I should probably move this fish+panela-cognac batch to a larger jar and add more water--and actually, we just got some granulated organic brown sugar today.
For the sugar cap, do I just sprinkle the crumbled brown sugar on top, 1/2" thick, and it should float enough to form a crusty wet layer? Or is there a trick to getting it to stay up and form a layer?
 
I think you should just let that experiment ride and start a new batch using the recommended strategy. I have no idea what effect a sugary syrup will have or whether it will even work.

Save your brown sugar for the next time you get fish and set it up right. No sense in throwing more resources at something that's a long shot to begin with when you're close enough time wise to do it right.
 
Yeah.
I guess my thought was to rinse the whole thing, and put the fish back in the jar with just 2:1 water and a tsp of wc, and then do the brown sugar routine for any future plantas.
I am thinking that that way I might have something that at least will be usable, as opposed to not knowing if this fishwine-brandy-cognac will even work...

But maybe you are right, just leave it, and check it in six months as a data point (and hope I don't kill whatever I test it on)???
 
The native Americans taught the settlers how they buried whole fish underneath their corn seed to help feed the plant through its growth cycle.


same for guerilla grows.

used to dig a hole, bury a pile of fish guts and plant over top. we'd start with well established plants. bears were a real and present danger, both hiking in and out, plus they'd dig the plant up to get to the fish guts if they got there fast enough.


super old way to go about it.




 
same for guerilla grows.

used to dig a hole, bury a pile of fish guts and plant over top. we'd start with well established plants. bears were a real and present danger, both hiking in and out, plus they'd dig the plant up to get to the fish guts if they got there fast enough.


super old way to go about it.

Yeah, when the locals tell me to do things a certain way, I try to listen to them, if for no other reason than they probably stumbled across something good and cheap and effective, that has survived from generation to generation, by virtue of the fact that it is good and cheap and effective.

Of course we can do better nowadays, but the old ways are still effective.
 
I have 2 Barney's Farm LSDAutos that will need to be watered in maybe 1-2 days.
They went into flower early (21 days and 25 days), so I cannot HST.
I bent them over (best I can do at this point).
Will they be big enough to uppot in a day or two? I need extra space for the training hoops.
It seems like a good time to uppot, when the soil is dry enough that it clings together. If I miss this time, then the next time to uppot will be like another week, and I think they will want a larger pot before that. However, I am a newbie, and don't know.
So, what say you all? Is it time to uppot in a day or two? Or wait another week?
Thanks.

Also, is that still a CalMag deficiency on the lower leaves? Or is the plant just cannibalizing itself normally?
Also, there is some tip discoloration on the fans of #2 (the upper girl).
Please let me know if more or other photos would be helpful.

uppot.jpg
 
I'd go ahead and up-pot it. And it looks like a nitrogen deficiency, not cal-mag, to me.

With a calcium deficiency you'll usually get little rust looking spots on the leaves. With nitrogen def, it's a generally yellowing of the lowers since nitrogen is a mobile element that the plant can move around. Starts out as a generally pale green of the lowers and moves to yellow as the plant sucks the nitrogen from them to support the new growth at the top.
 
Yeah.
I guess my thought was to rinse the whole thing, and put the fish back in the jar with just 2:1 water and a tsp of wc, and then do the brown sugar routine for any future plantas.
I am thinking that that way I might have something that at least will be usable, as opposed to not knowing if this fishwine-brandy-cognac will even work...

But maybe you are right, just leave it, and check it in six months as a data point (and hope I don't kill whatever I test it on)???
The thing about rising the fish and starting over is that initially they attract the microbes that decompose that particular organic, so rinsing them off means you'll also have to start from scratch there as well.

Might have better luck luck though with some fresh castings after rinsing as I'm not very hopeful about that syrupy mess you've got going now.
 
I'd go ahead and up-pot it. And it looks like a nitrogen deficiency, not cal-mag, to me.

With a calcium deficiency you'll usually get little rust looking spots on the leaves. With nitrogen def, it's a generally yellowing of the lowers since nitrogen is a mobile element that the plant can move around. Starts out as a generally pale green of the lowers and moves to yellow as the plant sucks the nitrogen from them to support the new growth at the top.
Ok, cool, thank you!
Ok, thank you for your earlier advice to cover the worm castings. Those particular Solo cups do not have a lot of room, and I am so busy right now, I don't really have time to mess with it.
I am hoping to straight mix in 15-20% in from now on.

Coot's website is broken right now, but I was on it yesterday, and I think I remember Coot uses 1/3rd worm castings in his base. (And then he adds other things, if I recall.)
Coot's is also one part cspm, and the other part I forget what. Only, while I was letting my first batch of subcool ferment, I tried straight Coots. If I am not mistaken, I believe it was 1/3 wc.
I remember that the flavor experience was so much richer and better than with the chemical nutes I had been using! And it was such a better experience that I was sold on the organic path from then on.
Then the next batch was Subcool in the bottom 1/3 to 1/2 of a 7G cloth pot, with Coot's over the top of that. And I just remember that yeah, it took a while to mix and ferment, but now all you do is add water and you get rich, chocolate-y, frosty buds. And I could not believe the difference in flavor!
I never forgot that.
So I guess if Coots is maybe just less than 1/3 worm castings (if memory serves me correctly), and the upper 1/2 to 2/3 (but usually 2/3) of the pot was filled with Coot's, then is that like 1/3wc x 2/3 = 22.22222%?
So round that down a little, and you get like 20% worm castings for those early pots.
And once we get to our final destination, worm castings should be cheap.
So that is my thinking at the moment, for whatever that is worth.
I think you said you use a much smaller amount, like 5%. Would you want to share your reasoning behind using a much smaller amount (5%)? I am sure you have a lot of other things going on also, but I kind of equate the wc with the rich chocolate-y flavor--is that a mistake?
Or is there better?
('Cuz I know that you know a lot of stuff.)
Thanks.
 
The thing about rising the fish and starting over is that initially they attract the microbes that decompose that particular organic, so rinsing them off means you'll also have to start from scratch there as well.

Might have better luck luck though with some fresh castings after rinsing as I'm not very hopeful about that syrupy mess you've got going now.
Ok, yeah.
We are on another sprint right now, but if this is helpful, I think my thought was to rinse the fish reasonably well, and then cover it with different water that has set out for 24 hours, 2:1, and also throw in a teaspoon of worm castings for microbes, skip the brown sugar on this first one, and let it set for 6 months.
My understanding is that the point of a tsp of wc is to get the microbes, is that right?
So, I was not going to leave the fish out in the air for any length appreciable length of time (to catch pollen or bacteria, or whatever), but I was just going to rinse it and the jar real good, and then stuff the fish guts right back in the same jar, put 2:1 water on it, add 1 tsp wc, cap it, and then leave it for six months.

And then the next time we do fish (probably next week), I will try the other recipe, matching fish guts 1:1 with granulated organic brown sugar, and then use 2:1 water that has set out for 24 hours, and then cover that with a 1/2" organic brown granulated sugar cap, and let that sit for six months.
We used to use an Alaska Fish Fertilizer when I was a child. It stunk, but it really worked well!
If we can take lake trout and turn them into 1:1000 fertilizer just by eating trout, and stuffing the guts in jars with some brown sugar, then I am in!
Haha.
 
Coot's website is broken right now, but I was on it yesterday, and I think I remember Coot uses 1/3rd worm castings in his base. (And then he adds other things, if I recall.)
I didn't even know he had a website. I know Build A Soil did a bunch of work with him.

His mix is 1/3 CSPM, 1/3 compost (part of which can be castings and depending on the quality of the castings) and 1/3 aeration.

I think you said you use a much smaller amount, like 5%. Would you want to share your reasoning behind using a much smaller amount (5%)? I am sure you have a lot of other things going on also, but I kind of equate the wc with the rich chocolate-y flavor--is that a mistake?
The castings bring in microbes which go to work on the organic matter in your mix. I'm going to run an experiment soon to see if they bring a ton of nutrients on their own to the table or if it is mainly the microbes. If it's the latter and there is not much for them to eat and breakdown then the mix will run out of gas a lot sooner.

Plus I you've ever dissolved fresh castings in water you'll see they dissolve readily so I would imagine in your mix they don't last all that long. But don't really know so if you've had good results with higher amounts, then more power to you.

And my 6.25% is the amount in my mix. I also top dress with a nice thick layer of an inch or so and cover that with mulch (leaf mold in my case).

And then the next time we do fish (probably next week), I will try the other recipe, matching fish guts 1:1 with granulated organic brown sugar, and then use 2:1 water that has set out for 24 hours, and then cover that with a 1/2" organic brown granulated sugar cap, and let that sit for six months.
If you go the sugar route the formula is equal parts fish and brown sugar by weight, mixed thoroughly so the fish is well coated with the sugar, a small amount of microbes (leaf mold, castings, LAB, etc) and that's it. No water. Cover and let sit for 6 months or so. You can actually start using it sooner (like a month or two in) but it gets better with age. That's the KNF version. 1:1,000 dilution.

The Jadam version is the 2:1 water:fish, a bit of microbes, cover and let sit. 1:100 minimum dilution.

And if you are getting whole fish throw in the heads, tails, fins, bones, guts. Everything. Although I assume you'll eat the filets. ;)
 
Haha, you assume correctly!
Thank you very much. There is a lot to chew on there. I am on a run right now at work, so I will have to get back tomorrow or the next day. I have several questions but I want to get time to reflect on them first.

Ahh, thanks for the reminder on his mix! But I want to get time to look up his additive recommendations again (to compare them to Subcool's).
Coot's nutes website is here. Not sure if it is working yet or not.
Or simply:
It think it should be ok to share. A lot of people use his recipe.
I have not had time to explore his website, but hope to some day.
 
Dunno if you are still interested, but here are a couple CBD auto regular seed, from one of the sponsors, Coffee Shop.
Thanks!
Yeah, I like to support the sponsors. I appreciate what they do.
I ordered a test order of some CBD photo regulars from CoffeeShop. I have some unusual shipping difficulties here in Colombia. Most packages take 2-3 months, and some never make it. I am still waiting a normal wait time for the CoffeeShop test order. I am still hopeful that it will complete without incident.
(So far my experience with CS has been pleasant. If the order comes through alright, I would order from them again.)

About those particular seeds, thanks! I already purchased those from another seller when I was scouting for regular CBD autos. (I did not know that CS had them.)
I am still waiting on the Kush VanStitch, and I would plant them today if they were here.
The TopTao genetics seem very interesting. They sent me the Big Auto Tao and the Blueberry Tao, and also two batches of frees, one auto mix, and one regular mix.
I would plant them now, except they are 3-4 month plants, and I am in an almost-out-of-bud situation.
I got lots of bad advice, and did all the wrong things at the start, and Azimuth and Em and some others helped me get straight.
I met a friend who spotted me 1/3 of his medicine (!) at a fair price, which was very cool.
He also sold me some concentrates, so right now I am smoking concentrates with a lighter and a screen. (It hits hard, and I am thankful for what I have been given! Only... I miss my green bud!).

My plan is to run a bunch of 60-70 day autos right now (my limits is 20), to stuff some jars (and Malawi-cob-ferment-bags) full of bud---and then when I am all good and stocked up maybe two grows from now, I can try the 3-4 month regulars.
And I can't wait! A 5% CBD blueberry sativa sounds good!!
 
Thanks again for the seeds.
But just to say it, the one that really got me excited was the one @bluter sent.
400-450 grams a plant!!
I would buy it right now, but WSE said that they won't ship to Colombia (because they have had too many issues).
I can understand it---but how can I get those seeds?
(I begged them. No dice.)

Also, there were some other plants on Amazon that I wanted (Comfrey, Mugwort, Jiaogulan, etc.), but Amazon won't ship the seeds to Colombia.
So I made the mistake of sending them to my Texas reshipper, but they also will not ship the seeds without clearance through customs (because it is a customs issue).
So, now I am wondering how to get some CBD Express and my other companion plants (Comfrey, Mugwort, Jiaogulan, etc.) here in Colombia legally (so I don't get busted, because we are in a visa process, and I don't want anything to scuttle it).
 
Back
Top Bottom