Need help guys

[greenhousetr]

Hello friends, i have problem with my girls, i thinks something is wrong
I need your opinions '

My girls are super lemon Haze
Flowering stage has started 1 week ago
I use advanced nutrients and i use very moderatly
I used cal - mag couple times
Temperature is about 22-23 Celsius
Humidity is around %40-50
Water is filtered and PH is 6.5-6.7
I use ec meter,
i arrange electric conductivity 0.80 ms

What do you guys think!

 

[VetSmoke85]

What medium are they in and how often are you watering?

 

[greenhousetr]

They are in soil, pot size 22 liters
I water every 4-5 days, each time 1.5 litre

 

[bluter]

also auto or photo ?

claw suggests a bit wet. only relevant in soil.

check out how to water a potted plant in my sig. then thank @Emilya


edit : looks like a fair bit of n too. unsure if it's causing an issue on it's own though.

edit again : use the cal-mag at each feed.

 

[greenhousetr]

They are photo feminized

 

[bluter]

this is good. claw says wet with some other stuff.

AN has several lines. some two-part some 3-part. you have to adjust mixes accordingly. their bottle chart is hot on both. most run at half nutes. used to run AN. not a fan anymore. the core group has split and is emerald forest now.

i see a bit of cal mag ask - slightly yellow between veins. and a bit of n tox - elongated tips, maybe a bit deep on the green. the n and cal-mag are fighting each other a little is my best guess. they work in tandem.


keep the calmag and drop back on the n ever so slightly. it doesn't need it as much in flower, only some.

also the deep serration, and ever so slight tipping on the leaf edges suggest it is asking for a higher pk content. also consistent going in to flower. that edging will look like burn in a couple days and might fool you in to thinking a tox. it isn't. it'll be a pk ask.

overall everything looks good. water better and get a tad forward on the nutes. you're only a hair behind.

 

[greenhousetr]

Thanks friend, i will increase p-k and cal-mag for sure, decrease n because as you said my investigation early showed me could be N tox. And of course apply better watering i red proper watering on your signature.
After all hopefully things will work out.

 

[TegridyGrower]

Yeah, agree with @bluter, this looks primarely like a nitrogen excess to me. Haze strains tend to dislike the high amounts of N that is common for many mineral nutrients schedules. The slight interveinal chlorosis might be an Mg deficiency, but it might also be caused by lock out effects from the high amounts of N, hence it might already recover if you just back off on the N.

Beautifull big haze leaves btw!

 

[Nunyabiz]

Nitrogen toxicity

 

[bluter]

a decrease in n will allow more calmag uptake. so less could definitely solve both.

there is still the pk ask. it isn't a fire alarm. just getting ready for the recess bell.

oh and water better a bit ..
you're doing busters. it'll be great....

 

[Emilya Green]

They are in soil, pot size 22 liters
I water every 4-5 days, each time 1.5 litre

hmm... what makes you decide that 4-5 days is the best interval, or put another way, how do you determine that it is time to water? 1.5L in a 10gal pot is not a lot of water, so I guess you are trying not to overwater. How did you determine that this was the correct amount to give the plants? The answers to these questions will determine a lot of what I say next. Lastly, I would like to know if that clawing of the leaf ends is happening all the time or just after watering, and what the pH is that you adjust all of your fluids to. Also I want to know if you are alternating plain watering and feeding. Lots of questions, I know... but I want to be accurate when I give you my answer.

 

[greenhousetr]

Hey Emily, thanks for help
yesterday, i red your article about proper watering. There are lot of things about how to do proper watering to be honest.
I use humidity determination tool that if soil dry/wet than when tool says to me 'your soil is dry' i put some water, that is about every 4-5 days pattern and also when the leaves look wilt i say right time to watering.
I put 1.5 litres for every time because you are right i don't want to overwatering.
Clawing started on one plant a week ago but now most of my plants have same problem. No i can not say clawing happens after watering. It is permanently right now

 

[Emilya Green]

And... what are you feeding them, and how often. And... what are you adjusting your pH to? When your dry/wet tool is used, how deep are you placing the probes to get this measurement?

 

[greenhousetr]

I feed them every watering (every 5days maybe 1week ), i use advenced nutrients and 1/2 ratio that companies suggestion.
I use EC meter, i adjust my water around 0.85 ms (water with nutritions)

For PH, i use Biobizz ph down, i adjust around 6.5-6.7 and also i use filtered water.

For determine soil humidity, i place probe 15-20 cm from surface

 

[Emilya Green]

The watering method is not as bad as I imagined it could be, because you are waiting a good amount of time between waterings, too long actually, for there not to be something wrong, and now that you have described everything, I think I can see what is happening here.

First, the discrepancy between the clawing that seems to indicate over feeding along with the motling seen on some of the leaves, showing some sort of deficiency needs to be evaluated. The clawing indicates a buildup in the soil of at least some of the nutrients, yet you are giving half strength. This can be explained because you are feeding every time, not realizing that soil captures some of the nutrient to be used later by the roots. Traditionally in soil, plain pH adjusted water is used between each feeding so that the soil is able to release the stored nutrients to the plant, readying the system for a new load of nutes on the next watering. Your feeding each time is overloading that system, and your clawed leaves are letting you know that this is happening.

This doesn't mean that EVERY nute is being stored and overloaded... because of the pH you are adjusting to, there are some of the nutes in that mix that are barely able to be seen by the plant because your pH started out too high. Start at the low end of the 6.2-6.8 scale, and coming in at 6.2-6.3 will allow a greater time for the nutes to be available to the plant in each watering cycle. It is my belief that this change will get rid of the slight deficiency that is being seen in the lower leaves.

Now the watering problem. Since you have read my watering method, you know that I put the most importance on the lower roots. These are your feeder roots, and where the plant gets most of its water. If the bottom of your container is not happy, neither will your plants be. Your soil must have a great water retention rate for your plants to have been able to thrive as well as they are, the way you are watering. Not to be harsh, but let me explain what is happening when you water with 1.5L of water in a 22L container. When you give that water, gravity immediately starts pulling it down to the bottom, but I doubt that much of it makes it down to the bottom roots before it is absorbed by the soil and the roots in the top and middle of the container. The roots there are not nearly as efficient as the bottom roots, so the plant is pulling slowly from the moisture that is trapped there, and of course a small amount of water eventually makes it all the way down to the bottom simply due to gravity.

Our plants are extremely adaptive to the environment they find themselves in, so in your containers, your lower roots have atrophied because of their lack of use, and as a result your plants are never able to get up the water pressure in the trunk that a healthy plant would see. This also means that your plant is getting less nutrition than it could have gotten, less water... less everything... so plants grown in this way would never be the prize winners that big strong roots would have produced, but they will still produce.... that is the point. The plant has adapted to your method as best it can.

I would recommend changing to feed/water/feed/water, adjusting the pH to the bottom of the range, and begin to water properly by watering to runoff from here on out. You can't overwater a plant by giving too much in one watering... the soil can only hold so much. This will allow so much more of that large container of soil to get into the game, and your roots should start expanding out and especially developing in the bottom of the container, when you start using that region as it is intended, instead of metering the water out in fear of drowning them. Because the lower roots have to be underdeveloped, I would water fully to saturation on one pass, and then wait the 7-10 days for the plant to use that water before fully saturating the container again. In the meantime, since your top and middle roots are used to seeing liquid ever 3-5 day, keep that up too, and that 1.5 L sounds to be about right. Then also stop treating this as a water based hydro grow, and go to a feed/water/feed/water system, even with the 3 day mini waterings.

It is my belief that this combination of adjustments will fix the problems that I see here and that you will be able to finish this grow out in great shape. Continuing in the way you are will produce bud, but not as much bud. Adapt now, as your plant has been adapting to you, and I am sure that things will go better.

 

[Emilya Green]

lastly, the water meter. Those little 3 way meters are not very accurate, and actually there is one useful thing it can do... it can tell you where the top of the water table is, or where gravity has finally forced all the water in your container to settle into. The top of the water table shows you where it is relatively dry above, and then when you dip below the surface, it is WET. WET is the only useful reading of that meter... when you stick it down slowly creeping lower until that meter pegs out over on the right side indicating that it has just found wet. When you can "see" the top of the lake of water in that soil, you know when it is time to water next. You should refrain from watering until the water table has fallen down into the last inch or two of the bottom. Down there, according to that meter, it will never dry out. By getting a measurement of where the top of the water table is each day, you can quickly determine how fast your plant is using water and when your next watering day will be.

 

[greenhousetr]

Thanks for your time Emilya, i will watering as your recommendation and i will let you know that what kind of developments going through.

 

[bobrown14]

Looks like under watering to me. I think its been covered!

GL - just put some plants that looked like that in larger containers. They were rootbound. Couldn't give them enough water. Its very difficult to over water cannabis in flower. I've not ever done it.