My First Leaf Discoloration

spiritwave7

Active Member


Hello.

I think my first plant grow is going well overall, but I just noticed the plant on the left (Cheese) has a tan spot on it.

Damage at the tip occurred when I swapped light bulbs and one fell on the plant (lesson learned: move plant out of case prior to switching bulbs btw), but that spot is new.

The first pic shows the closeup, while the second pic shows both plants overall.

Any advice provided is truly appreciated.
 
Welcome -

The spots look like early sign of Calcium deficiency to me.

It would be helpful to know what your are growing in - Soil or CoCo and also what your PH of your nutrients are and what the PH of the run off is. Good chance you are locking out the calcium with your PH.
 
Welcome -

The spots look like early sign of Calcium deficiency to me.

It would be helpful to know what your are growing in - Soil or CoCo and also what your PH of your nutrients are and what the PH of the run off is. Good chance you are locking out the calcium with your PH.

I'm growing in Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.

The company who sold me my grow box (pcgrowcase.com) said that I don't need added nutrients, because that soil should already have enough nutrients in this case (because the grow cycle is shorter due to micro-growing -- i.e. only 2 week veg).

As far as PH, I'm only testing the water, which is always between 6-7.
 
fwiw:

I changed my water schedule from once a day to twice daily.

The goal of watering is still the same (balance the soil to proper moisture between completely dry and soaking wet), but I assume that two "waterings" smooths out that moisture maintenance for better nutrient uptake.

I don't have complete control over temperature and humidity, if that matters here.

Using a cool product called SensorPush, my phone has an app that informs and alerts me regarding temperature and humidity in the grow case, so I'm able to keep those variables typically in a healthy place (between 65-80F and 40-50% respectively during flowering) by opening a window for cooling and adjusting my humidifier as best as I can.
 
fwiw:

I changed my water schedule from once a day to twice daily.

The goal of watering is still the same (balance the soil to proper moisture between completely dry and soaking wet), but I assume that two "waterings" smooths out that moisture maintenance for better nutrient uptake.

I don't have complete control over temperature and humidity, if that matters here.

Using a cool product called SensorPush, my phone has an app that informs and alerts me regarding temperature and humidity in the grow case, so I'm able to keep those variables typically in a healthy place (between 65-80F and 40-50% respectively during flowering) by opening a window for cooling and adjusting my humidifier as best as I can.


2x watering a day works really well with CoCo where it is almost impossible to over water. I would be cautious with your growing soil. Soil/Moss mixtures are very susceptible to overwatering and root rot.
 
2x watering a day works really well with CoCo where it is almost impossible to over water. I would be cautious with your growing soil. Soil/Moss mixtures are very susceptible to overwatering and root rot.

I am being as cautious as I can be by working to achieve the proper soil moisture level with each watering to avoid over or under watering.

Instead of cluelessly doubling the amount of water, I am simply spreading about the same amount of water (maybe a little bit more) twice daily to avoid giving a lot of water once daily.

Spreading out one day's watering to more times daily should better maintain the right soil moisture balance (e.g. avoid drier soil right before watering, and wetter soil right after watering), logically speaking.
 
After doing some more research, I pulled back on the watering to once daily again.

It's a challenge for this new grower to get a feel for the healthiest watering method, but I can already feel a comfort level growing on this front.

Thanks again, all. :Namaste:
 
I think the healthiest is to mimic nature. I like to let mine dry out a little in between watering. The finger test works well if you don't have a meter. Just stick you finger I the soil down about an inch if it is damp your ok. Your plants will let you know if they are thirsty by bowing their leaves - I never go that low.

The amount the plants need will vary with humidity, temperature, grow medium and maturity of plants. When plants get to maturity they can often suck up a couple liters a day and may need multiple drinks while a young plant can go for a day or more. Main thing you want make sure you don't get root rot - caused by the root zone being too wet.
 

Following up on this issue, the bottom leaves are now fully yellow/brown and dry (as seen in the image above taken today), and I don't understand why.

When reading about common growing problems, it seems odd to me that the top of the plants look healthy.

Are the plants missing something, or do they have too much of something?

I'm on a once-daily watering schedule between 6-7ph (Brita filtered water sometimes with ph up/down as needed), generally have humidity between 40-50% (although it does drop into 30s and goes above 50 during the day at times), keep temperature between 65-80F (although it goes beyond those boundaries at times).

As indicated earlier in this thread, but repeating here for your convenience, there are no additional nutrients added to the Fox Farm Ocean Forest soil.

They are both about one month away from their estimated harvest time.

Why are the bottom leaves unhealthy?

Is there something more I should do here?
 
I recently read that you can be more scientific about watering; if you have a scale. Weigh your pots after a thorough watering. When the weight drops to 50% then it is time to water again. For example, if your pot watered weighs 4.5 lbs the next complete watering would be when the weight is 2.25 lbs. Use a moisture meter to check for dry spots after transplanting. Plants should never sit in wet bases or be flushed for more than 15 minutes.
 
Your scientific method of watering would be great but would be quite time consuming. I think you will be amazed at how accurate you can be by just feeling your pots weight ... amazing how in tune you can get with your girls.
 
I appreciate either school of thought on the pot weight front, although saving time works big time in my case.

As it pertains to my issue here, I was only checking and watering once daily (going with my gut in terms of how much water to use), and I think that's my problem.

I just checked them, and the soil was rather dry, so I think this is a case of under watering.

Going forward, I will check the soil three times daily until my gut is righteously tuned in with the plants' watering needs.
 
I've found with even great organic bagged soil you can run out of nutrients if the plant fills the container with roots. Fox Forest Ocean soil will run out of nutrients, I've found in my experience.

In my case, I've been told that since these are dwarf plants only requiring about two weeks of veg stage, there should be enough nutrients to last the entire grow.

As Troy01 said above, Ocean Forest is pretty hot on the nutrient front, and I'm concerned that could be an issue here too.
 
I think you will find the watering schedule is really dependent on your grow media (coco or soil). In CoCo it is almost impossible to over water. I sometimes water my girls in CoCo 2-3 times a day and they love it.

Soil is a different story and will depend o the size of the plant, temperature, humidity and amount of light. You really want the soil to go on the dry side before watering again. My last grow in soil I could go 1-3 days without watering and they produced a jumbo root ball.
 
I think you will find the watering schedule is really dependent on your grow media (coco or soil). In CoCo it is almost impossible to over water. I sometimes water my girls in CoCo 2-3 times a day and they love it.

Soil is a different story and will depend o the size of the plant, temperature, humidity and amount of light. You really want the soil to go on the dry side before watering again. My last grow in soil I could go 1-3 days without watering and they produced a jumbo root ball.

Sounds good, but I'm trying to get a grip on whether or not I'm over or under watering my plants.

When you look at the following image, what do you think?

 
As I have two completed grows in FFOF soil, I can definitely attest to the fact that a plant which is veg for one month, will run shy of nutrients by about 2 weeks. Since you have only vegged for 2 weeks, I can't see there being a problem with the nutrient side of the soil. That being said, by watering every day, you are ultimately washing the nutrients into your plant as they become more readily available more easily to the root system.
I am on board whenever somebody says check pH. In fact if you knew what exactly was going in, you could check your runoff water and get a darn good approximation of what PH your soil is at.
I also have a funny feeling that your water that you have been using, is the source of your problem. When you give us a range of 6-7, that doesn't really tell us very much. If the pH is 6, that will stop the uptake of certain nutrients like calcium or magnesium or.....Whatever. Your lower leaves should definitely not look like that so if my best piece of advice would be to invest in a pH pen for now. Dial in your ph and stop watering every day if they dont need it.

Also check out this chart, it gives the basic rundown of what minerals and nutrients are available to your plant in soil and in Hydro. This is what I'm talking about when I see pH is key.
Hope this helps.....lets get some close ups!?
 
Also, if the very tips of your leaves are curling downwards at all, that is also a sign of over-watering..... If yours are not doing that, I would say you have a pH problem.
 
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