Mars Hydro Grow Journal SP 3000: Blue Kush, RDWC, ScrOG

Looking good there @GoogleGenie

I agree with you about the EC, but it's not to far out.

Noticed you keep a very close eye on your ladies.

I will stop by to see how your doing.
Thanks @Tokin Roll :passitleft:

I'm actually subbed to your thread too - looking great! Your plants are beautiful and healthy.
I have not tried coco yet, but looking in to it.
Growing in Coco in DWC is a little tricky and somewhat controversial. I just love the environment that Coco provides for roots.
 

Day 3 Flower​

Ladies are showing pistils already which is nice :love:



And here they are. They're growing at a faster rate now, so will be paying close attention to the ScrOG screen.


And they're currently sat at:


PH is a little low but I'll be topping up with water later so this should bring it up without me needing to use any PH adjustment fluid.

:Namaste:
 
I also top dressed the net pots with steel wool (I do this whether growing in Coco or Hydroton in DWC). I do this as a preventative measure to contain a gnat outbreak. I use Tanlin in the res and by top dressing with steel wool, any gnats that escape will be butchered by the steel.

 
Interesting, I never thought about steel wool.

Does it happen often?
I had some gnat issues a few runs ago, which prompted me to use the steel wool. It didn’t cause any major issues other than headache, and the problem is that they can spread quickly. And I’m in a really small space. It just takes a single adult gnat to make it into another area. They’re a nuisance.

Since using steel wool I haven’t seen a single gnat. My last run I had some larvae too but fortunately caught it early with Tanlin
 
I’m In! Great journal so far! Definitely would love to see this grow In the end of It’s cycle, right before harvest.
The green on those girls looks like you’ve been taking great care of them. Awesome job!
What were you aiming for yield wide? Definetely would like to know.
Thank you @ChronicTrees

I'd be disappointed if i got anything less than 20oz/560g from all 4 of them (avg 5oz per plant).

But between me and you....i'm aiming for 30oz/840g (avg 7.5oz per plant) - my PB is 833g - that 7g off of 30oz really urks me! I always try to beat my PB.

I know - very ambition :cheesygrinsmiley: especially as I'm yet to complete a Blue Kush grow lol - my other run is half way through flowering. I hear it's a high yielder though so I'm going for it. Gotta aim highhhhh :Rasta:
 
I had a peak at the roots of one of the ladies before lights out. They are looking fierce...


At this point, the root growth will be explosive as they are now well established in the nutrient solution itself, so i expect the rootball to grow at a very rapid rate. That being said, this will probably be the last photo of the roots until harvest. I won't open up the individual nodes now unless there is a problem. Above all else, I don't want to let any unnecessary light into the res. Water + Oxygen + Light = Algae, which we most certainly do NOT want in our system.

Enjoy the rest of your evening everyone

:peace:
 
Thank you @ChronicTrees

I'd be disappointed if i got anything less than 20oz/560g from all 4 of them (avg 5oz per plant).

But between me and you....i'm aiming for 30oz/840g (avg 7.5oz per plant) - my PB is 833g - that 7g off of 30oz really urks me! I always try to beat my PB.

I know - very ambition :cheesygrinsmiley: especially as I'm yet to complete a Blue Kush grow lol - my other run is half way through flowering. I hear it's a high yielder though so I'm going for it. Gotta aim highhhhh :Rasta:
Awesome! I’m aiming for at least 4Oz each clone. I have 4 clones, that’s 16 Oz. so a whole pound. The genetics of my Runtz are supposed to be extremely potent. So I’m really wanting for harvest to be a high yielding one!
 
Awesome! I’m aiming for at least 4Oz each clone. I have 4 clones, that’s 16 Oz. so a whole pound. The genetics of my Runtz are supposed to be extremely potent. So I’m really wanting for harvest to be a high yielding one!
Awesome! I have my fingers crossed for you that everything goes well and you get a monster yield :thumb:
 
Looking great in here my brother and wow that Bluelab setup looks awesome
Thank you brother! :high-five:

A while back I started to save all of the money I would have spent on black market bud and treated myself to 2 x Bluelab Guardians, one for each system I have. It saves me a lot of time as I’d usually have to sit with a PH pen in each system’s control bucket, sometimes numerous times a day to make sure the PH was in range. And you know what those pens are like, they take 30s or so to settle on a PH. The Bluelab Guardian has saved me a lot of time, and my back is very grateful too :yummy:
 
:popcorn: :ciao: Off to a great start. Nice setup to keep on top of things.
Thanks mate :high-five:
Can I ask about the reason for the light schedule you use? I thought you could give less than 12hrs light for flower but not more?
12 of darkness is pretty much the accepted critical flowering time for marijuana. However in reality a lot of strains can commence flowering with less than 12 hours of darkness. If you think about it, it makes sense, in outdoor grows, if a plant required 12 hours of darkness to flower, they wouldn't be able to initiate flowering until October time (at least in the UK).

Jump Starting Flowering

I'm going to paraphrase my main man Ed Rosenthal:
Long periods of uninterrupted darkness are mother nature's trigger to marijuana to start flowering. This is measured chemically by phytochrome, which is deactivated by red ilght. The inactive form is referred to as Pr. In the absence of red ight, with a peak at 666nm and effects from 500-700nm. Pr drifts into it's active form Pfr, over a period of about 2 hours. This begins at dusk (or when the lights are tuned off). This transition period, during which Pfr has limited effectiveness, can be dramatically shortened.

Pr is sensitive to far-red light with a peak at 730nm and is affected in a range of about 700-750nm. It in's presence it changes almost immediately to the active form.

Indoor after the grow lamps are turned off, expose the plants to far-red light (730nm ish) which turns Pr into Pfr mich faster and induces flowering within a shorter dark period. Far-red light can also be used to restore the active form of the hormone if the dark is interrupted by red light. This may ameliorate the consequences of darkness interruption.

The plants should be exposed to far-red light each evening at the end of dusk (or after lights out). They need only a few seconds of exposure each night.

From this book:


Theoretically, if a plant has a critical flowering time of 11 hours (which is quite common) then by exposing them to far-red light in this way you could give them 9 hours of darkness, and they would react as if they were under a lighting regime of 11hours of darkness.

Hope this makes sense - it's a complex subject, but fascinating!

I expose my ladies to far-red light right after lights out for 5mins, this converts the Pr to Pfr much quicker, which is why the ladies enjoy 10.5 hours or darkness and 13.5 hours of light. This is 12.5% more light each day with which to produce sugars used for more and faster growth. In theory i could actually give them more light, but I don't know this strain too well yet so not really sure what their critical flowering time is, so i'm playing it safe with 10.5 hours of darkness.

I use a separate Philips LED for this which comes on for 5mins after lights out, it's the little one hanging in between the 2 Mars lights:


It would be a fantastic feature if there was an LED light, which could activate far-red LEDs (730nm) when the lights go out for a few seconds. It would save me having to use a separate light - hint hint @Mars Hydro ;)
 
Thanks buddy. Jogged memories of something I'd briefly read before about the far-red. Appreciate the explanation. I hadn't understood properly that you could reduce the dark hours using it like that. Very cool. I'll have to read up some more. Thanks mate.
 
Thanks buddy. Jogged memories of something I'd briefly read before about the far-red. Appreciate the explanation. I hadn't understood properly that you could reduce the dark hours using it like that. Very cool. I'll have to read up some more. Thanks mate.
No worries mate :thumb:
 
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