OK So I have decided to jump into DWC for my next grow and have this coming from @Mars Hydro. From what I can gather it looks to be a continuous feed system? Am i reading this correctly?
Mars Hydro 5-Gallon DWC Hydroponic System - Continuous Feed?
- Thread starter Ke0ncp
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What do you mean by continuous feed? In DWC the roots stay in the water and air is always bubbling. You will need to check ppm & pH and adjust accordingly.
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- #3
They use the airpump to drive whatever is in the reservoir to kind of spit out across the media. I always thought that a submerged water pump would drive the feed on a schedule.
So with this the system is continuously feeding or circulating through the system.
My plan is to dump/clean/sanitize the reservoirs weekly. Then refill with that weeks target for nutes. I’ve read that some people top with ph’d RO water through the week and others top with nutes. It sounds like there can be a build up of salts with the later.
What I do not want to have to do is meter the water daily and make adjustments, so I am really hoping I can get away with that.
I’m hoping this is the “lazy man’s” set up HAHA
I need a lazy grow after the last 2 that I’ve had haha
How is it going @Ke0ncp
Dripping into DWC I see. When I started out growing I started with DWC, and have enjoyed it ever since. I just like how the plant responds with accelerated growth. Once she in veg, she will look different everyday, unlike soil where it is very gradual. I will follow along if you don't mine? I just finished a DWC grow.
If you have any questions or problems feel free to tag me.
Also, to answer your question about the buildup on the root. I flush my plants in DWC three times. On mid veg, second time is when I flip the light schedule, and the third time mid flower.
A question for you, will you be using Hydro-Guard to treat your water?
Stay safe and grow well my friend,
Tok..
edit: When I flush I use RO water ph'd to 5.8 with 300 ppms of cal-mag. Then I let it run that way for an hour or two after, which I do my solution change.
Dripping into DWC I see. When I started out growing I started with DWC, and have enjoyed it ever since. I just like how the plant responds with accelerated growth. Once she in veg, she will look different everyday, unlike soil where it is very gradual. I will follow along if you don't mine? I just finished a DWC grow.
If you have any questions or problems feel free to tag me.
Also, to answer your question about the buildup on the root. I flush my plants in DWC three times. On mid veg, second time is when I flip the light schedule, and the third time mid flower.
A question for you, will you be using Hydro-Guard to treat your water?
Stay safe and grow well my friend,
Tok..
edit: When I flush I use RO water ph'd to 5.8 with 300 ppms of cal-mag. Then I let it run that way for an hour or two after, which I do my solution change.
I will follow along, if you don't mind.
Like @Tokin Roll , I have been growing in hydro for a few years. I am using DWC, RDWC, and top feed (drip, more of a flow). I differ in the fact that I am growing sterile.
Just a couple of comments:
I checked out your system and guess they are planning on feeding the drip ring using the water inlet fitting as a venturi. This would also explain the need for check valves. I have a submerged aquarium pump feeding mine, as you suspected would feed yours. I am interested how this works since mine is a non-aerated supply that I run twice daily for fifteen minutes each time.
My reservoir is always between 76° and 82° F. If you ARE NOT relying on beneficial bacteria I would suggest the following product, one in each bucket. It is a slow release of 3% peroxide. I have had ZERO root issues and it lasts for a month before needing refilling. It also adds additional oxygen to the root system.I use one in my 20 gallon reservoir. Worry free!
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- #6
Of course! I have added it to my notes to tag you when I start the journal for this.
So your only doing a full flush 3 times a grow?
So you top with your nutes at whatever strength they call for at that particular point in the grow?
Are you measuring ppm and ph of the reservoir before topping?
How often do you find yourself toping/making water adjustments? I realize that smaller volumes of water can swing wildly and fast, know this from having aquariums all my life
Ohh yes! I have seen this mentioned in my readings so far and don’t look into it yet but I am assuming that I will be to help keep down on the funk in the water
Good to know. So you’re really doing a good wash on the root structure as well.
5.8 ph is your goal through the grow? This was the number is was thinking too. I’ve read that 5.5 - 6.3 is ok but that seems like a big swing in PH so I was just going to target the middle
Thanks for the info it is greatly appreciated!
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- #7
I have added you to the note as well of who to tag when I start the journal. Will be 1 week after I pull my PGC from the tent to go into Grove Bags. I’m in the second week of flower mow so will be a bit
Thanks a ton for the recommendation on that product
Will add that to the list as well!
Very interesting @Hafta
I may look into this method my next DWC.
Thank you.
1. check bucket ppm's, ph, and level.
2.When the ppm's and ph goes up and the water level goes down the plant is just drinking water, add water. If this continues you may need to pull back a little on your nutrients.
3. If the water level, ppm's and ph drop, she is feeding normal.
Silica can help stabilize the ph swings.
It may even have a readout of the solution temperature, but I am not familiar with these new grow boxes coming out. So, I do not know what they are capable of.
Tok..
I may look into this method my next DWC.
Thank you.
You can do in as often as you like, but three time work for me.
Topping off solution
1. check bucket ppm's, ph, and level.
2.When the ppm's and ph goes up and the water level goes down the plant is just drinking water, add water. If this continues you may need to pull back a little on your nutrients.
3. If the water level, ppm's and ph drop, she is feeding normal.
Silica can help stabilize the ph swings.
Yes.
Solution level and temperature normally causes ph swing.
Your setup should have some kind of indicator to tell your what the solution level is.How often do you find yourself toping/making water adjustments? I realize that smaller volumes of water can swing wildly and fast, know this from having aquariums all my life
It may even have a readout of the solution temperature, but I am not familiar with these new grow boxes coming out. So, I do not know what they are capable of.
Tok..
- Thread starter
- #9
Good to know
I like that hahaGood info! I will be adding silica as part of my normal additions to MC along with Epsom, ammonium Sulfate and potassium chloride.
The only indication is a site tube to see water levels in the res. Is there gadget out there that I can use to see ppm/ph without having to open the bucket and use separate meters? And maybe 1 device that has 2 sensors or the ability to test more than one source at a time?
Sorry for all of the questions. I just want to make sure I understand what I’m getting myself into LOL
I am sure there is, but it would probably be costly to go completely automatic.
I just use meters to check results.
TR
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- #11
Fair enough! Thanks.
I got a nice two-probe pH/ppm meter. When I was using DWC I mounted the probes on the end of a long bbq fork. That way I could easily stick it down in the bucket.
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- #13
Hey now this is a great idea. I’m going to see if I can find a plug in meter that displays both ppm and ph at the same time and alligator clip on some wires to the probes
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
I change my res around every 30 days. As long as the readings are good there is no reason to do it more often. Just top up with water or food based on the readings. PH will get unruly when you are due for a change. Are you running organic or sterile synthetic? Tag me when you start. Looking forward to seeing your new toy.
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- #15
That’s pretty much what I’m thinking after reading some more and everyone’s input here
Sterile synthetic. MegaCrop with some additions
Will do added you to the note
Thanks for everyone’s input it’s been super helpful!
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- #16
I found this on the Zon that looks interesting. Cheap enough to grab one of them to start with and see how it works. I guess. Then I can see if I can mod one of my TDS meters for PPM, I am assuming it is anything that will carry a current and non corrosive? PH will still have to be checked manually in that bucket unless I decide that the 5 in 1 monitor works well enough.
Ramblinrose1965
Well-Known Member
You mean roachclip.....lol
You know why their not called potholders? Cause that name was already taken.
Sativa1970
Well-Known Member
I drilled a small hole in the lid and used a wooden dowel as a dip stick to check water level. A small garden pump on a switch would pump a sample out into a cup to check PH and TDS. That lasted for two grows. Roots grew into the pump and blocked the dip stick, giving false readings. Adding and draining the res was still a pain.
I cut a six inch hole in the lid and an eight inch lid to cover it. I can look through the hole to see the roots, drop an extraction pump in for res change, dump water in, and reach in with a cup to get a sample. Reading samples at the sink is easier than balled up under a bush. Some times simple is better.
I cut a six inch hole in the lid and an eight inch lid to cover it. I can look through the hole to see the roots, drop an extraction pump in for res change, dump water in, and reach in with a cup to get a sample. Reading samples at the sink is easier than balled up under a bush. Some times simple is better.
Nice find. I have a bluelab Guardian monitor that does the same for only five times the price. For seventy bucks you could put one in each bucket. Buy some calibration fluid (4.0 pH and 7.0 pH). I calibrate mine once a month.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
I've run regular unscented bleach(sodium hypochlorite) for decades in hydro as a sterilizer, preventative and cleaning agent. It's safer and more affordable to use than products based on hydrogen peroxide. The application rate is less frequent and the residual effect longer. Chlorine is a softer and weaker oxidizer than H2O2.
You have commercial chlorine based products based on hypochlorous acid but those have shorter shelf life and residual effect compared to regular hypochlorite.
See dosages and recommendations in my signature for running residual chlorine as a sterilizing agent using sodium hypochlorite in hydro. 3-5ppm is recommended for DWC.
Just DM or PM if you run in to any problem or have any questions like water level, amount of aeration and how to properly start a seed and transplant in DWC?
All the best of luck!
Cheers!
You have commercial chlorine based products based on hypochlorous acid but those have shorter shelf life and residual effect compared to regular hypochlorite.
See dosages and recommendations in my signature for running residual chlorine as a sterilizing agent using sodium hypochlorite in hydro. 3-5ppm is recommended for DWC.
Just DM or PM if you run in to any problem or have any questions like water level, amount of aeration and how to properly start a seed and transplant in DWC?
All the best of luck!
Cheers!
