Lowryder #2 not budding

[joe2cool396]

I know there was already a post about this, but no one actually answered the question and just ended up talking about their own shit for some reason.

I have 5 LR2 plants growing, none of which have budded yet, despite the fact two have been growing for close to 45 days and the other 3 around 30-35. The lower leaves are also starting to wilt and I am becoming very concerned. This is my first time growing so I have no idea why its not working...Does anyone have an answer to this problem?

Here are some pictures

I'm using flourescents- 2 48 inch 40 watts and some stupid little thing i had that i just put there. The seeds came in official joint doctor packaging, so I'm sure they are lowryders...whats wrong?

 

[OldMedUser]

I know there was already a post about this, but no one actually answered the question and just ended up talking about their own shit for some reason.

I have 5 LR2 plants growing, none of which have budded yet, despite the fact two have been growing for close to 45 days and the other 3 around 30-35. The lower leaves are also starting to wilt and I am becoming very concerned. This is my first time growing so I have no idea why its not working...Does anyone have an answer to this problem?

I'm using flourescents- 2 48 inch 40 watts and some stupid little thing i had that i just put there. The seeds came in official joint doctor packaging, so I'm sure they are lowryders...whats wrong?

I would have to offer the option that they are not LowRyders. If so even under the lower light conditions they should show sex after four weeks.

It looks like you have lots of light for those babies as the lowest leaves are still full and green.

So, if they're LR why aren't they flowering yet?

 

[FreakNature]

I don't have an answer, but how about switching to a 12/12 light cycle for a week or two to see what happens?

 

[joe2cool396]

That would be some fuckshit if they aren't lowryder. I made the switch to 12/12 today, I have to get these babies finished by summer.

 

[L8tNightSkunk]

Isnt there another thread on here where another guy is also having problems with his lowryder plants? i think same po

 

[L8tNightSkunk]

https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/lowryder-2-plants-2.90566/

 

[Retired One]

Autoflowering strain DO NOT need a change in light schedules. The flowering is brought on by age not by a switch in light schedules. Could you get some better pics of the internodal area? Also, they look kind of sparse. My best estimation is they don't have enough light. 80w of Flouro is just not enough for flowering and could very well explain the sparse, stretchy look of those plants. What is the kelvin rating of your flouros? And putting an unknown light in there may not be the best idea either. Buy more light and I'll bet they come around. I'm growing White Dwarfs right now and I have noticed some sensitivity to varying light conditions.

 

[joe2cool396]

Ok, I realize they do not NEED to have the light cycle changed, but I did it anyway because I was sick of waiting. Now, nearly 3 weeks after the switch--the plants have started to bud, but I would think that would be expected of any plant. I have pretty much given up hope that these are indeed Lowryder II, despite the fancy packaging the seed bank sent them in. (I have since made inquiries to this particular bank, trying to blame them for sending me the wrong seeds while not admitting to growing them since apparently they cant help you if you do) Out of the 5 feminized seeds I started with, 2 ended up being male, and 1 is over 2 feet tall (which doesnt seem possible with LR2, especially since my light is far from optimal). So now I'm stuck with 3 plants of unknown strains that I started flowering too early because I thought they were LR...sweet way to start off my first grow. So here are some pictures of where I am, and if its possible to make an educated guess, it would be nice if someone could tell me how much longer I should expect before harvesting. Thanks again.

On the bright side, they seem to be pretty healthy. After a battle with those damn fungas gnats they seem to be progressing steadily. I know my light situation is not the best, but I am pretty much completely broke so a new light will probably have to wait until the government wants to pay for it (aka the next school semester starts and i get my financial aid) and finally that light on the side is not "unknown" its just a stupid little flourescent grow light i bought from walmart in my ignorance, so i dont think it can really hurt. Anyway, thanks again for any insight and for the advice given already.

 

[TorturedSoul]

If you have less-than bright lights and you don't keep them within an inch or two of the plants, then you're going to get tall plants due to them stretching towards the lights.

OTOH, even relatively dim 6500K CFLs will give you super-tight node spacing if you have the bulbs right at the plant.

 

[Retired One]

Ok, I'll try again...changing the light sched on an AF strain causes stress. Stress causes males and hermies to show up. The lack of bud developement and the stretchy sparse look of the plants indicates not enough light, and possibly the wrong spectrum. Since you didn't post the kelvin rating on your lights, I have no idea if that is a problem or not. A very knowledgable grower told me to keep my White Dwarf plants under hps from the beginning. I realize you are using flouros, and they work just fine, as long as you are using the correct spectrum.

 

[joe2cool396]

I'm not sure what the kelvin rating of the light is, but the flouros are full spectrum--I'm not sure if thats good or not. The one on the side is cool white.

 

[Retired One]

I'm not sure what the kelvin rating of the light is, but the flouros are full spectrum--I'm not sure if thats good or not. The one on the side is cool white.

I believe you should be using 2700k lights for the LRs...This rating will be posted on the bulb...as well as the box that new bulbs come in. Look on the tubes you have towards the ends and you should have a kelvin rating on them...6500k is used to veg...2700k for flower. And since all AF strains essentially skip the veg state, you need to be giving them flowering light.

Also, cool color bulbs equal blue light which is for sure the veg light. Having one bulb throwing blue light is not a bad thing, it will promote vertical growth, but you really need to be using warm lights, which put out light in the red spectrum. Get the bulbs right and drop them to within an inch of the plants and I'll bet you see a marked increase in bud formation/production.

 

[McBudz]

I believe you should be using 2700k lights for the LRs...This rating will be posted on the bulb...as well as the box that new bulbs come in. Look on the tubes you have towards the ends and you should have a kelvin rating on them...6500k is used to veg...2700k for flower. And since all AF strains essentially skip the veg state, you need to be giving them flowering light.

Also, cool color bulbs equal blue light which is for sure the veg light. Having one bulb throwing blue light is not a bad thing, it will promote vertical growth, but you really need to be using warm lights, which put out light in the red spectrum. Get the bulbs right and drop them to within an inch of the plants and I'll bet you see a marked increase in bud formation/production.

Blue does not promote vertical growth as in stretching., Blue keeps the plant tighter. I suggest for AF strains to use Blue up until buds start to form them switch to 2700K or equivalent bloom spectrum.

you need to get more light on them asap. Also what light schedule were you running prior to switching to 12/12? 18/6 is best for LR/LR2 and should stay there beginning to end. Not sure if the under lighting is hindering the AF process. But looking at your current lighting you don't have an ideal situation for any kind of strain. Look into a HO CFL lke a 125-150 watt bulb or 2 or even look at getting a 250-600 watt HPS if you really want good yield. Or if on tight budget.. go pick up about 12-15 household CFLS or more. 75% - 2700K and 25% 6500K. Place them all around the plants tops and sides within inches. Stay away from full spectrum white lights as they are useless in growing.

As with anything you will get out of it what you put into it. Use sub-par lighting you will get nothing better than sub-par results.

 

[Retired One]

Blue does not promote vertical growth as in stretching., Blue keeps the plant tighter. I suggest for AF strains to use Blue up until buds start to form them switch to 2700K or equivalent bloom spectrum.

Interesting...this is contradictory to what I've been told by a grower that has been monkeying with these strains for years. Of course there is always more than one way to defur a feline...lol.

My personal exp with AF strains is limited to my current grow, but I do know the setup used by my grower friend, and there are no blue spectrum lights in his setup and his LRs routinly put out 30g+ from an indoor soil grow.

 

[Retired One]

Ahh someone with knowledge or at least access to knowledge on AF plants.
I'm looking for knowledge on what outdoor temps they can handle both highs and lows, what ph of soil/moisture when outside. what fertilizing schedule to use and much more. I find lots of conjecture, but not much personal knowledge when I look around. I do find some good info too. mostly in general growing not AF growing.
could your friend answer some of these questions?
check out my gallery to see some of my AF types (LR2)

I'm quite certain I can get him to answer any question I ask...He's the reason I chose an AF strain to begin with. He primarily grows White Dwarfs, as I am growing now, but at one time or another, I've smoked his AK47...BlueRyder...DieselRyder...etc. He keeps a perpetual harvest going and is a goldmine of info.

On my grow, at least from an advice standpoint, he's not much help because I have "gone to the dark side" with my conversion to hydro. Send me a PM with questions so we ain't hijacking the thread and I'll get you the answers.

And you are so right about the info on AF here. I actually threw a Hail Mary on my grow journal, and suggested that a sub-forum be created in the Seeds, Clones and Strains forum to facilitate info exchange. These plants don't act like normal plants but some people are trying to treat them the same.

 

[Mr.GrowitALL]

which seed bank did you get the seeds from? did they come in the orig breeders pack??

 

[joe2cool396]

The attitude and yes they did come in the original breeders pack. I had them on a 20/4 light schedule for almost 2 months and they didnt bud, is it possible the poor lighting would hinder it that much?

 

[Mr.GrowitALL]

The attitude and yes they did come in the original breeders pack. I had them on a 20/4 light schedule for almost 2 months and they didnt bud, is it possible the poor lighting would hinder it that much?

damn so did my pick and mix lowrider #2 x ak-47. it came in a tiny ziplock with the joint drs info on it. could be bad genetics

 

[McBudz]

Interesting...this is contradictory to what I've been told by a grower that has been monkeying with these strains for years. Of course there is always more than one way to defur a feline...lol.

My personal exp with AF strains is limited to my current grow, but I do know the setup used by my grower friend, and there are no blue spectrum lights in his setup and his LRs routinly put out 30g+ from an indoor soil grow.

I'm not saying its required. Merely a suggestion since we know the blue spectrum is better for veg which the LR does see for at least a week or so. So why not give it the veg spectrum if you have it up until signs of budding, then cutover to hps. I'm sure a lot of folks may not have the seperate lights to work with and we all know many use HPS straight through the grow with great success. Some blue up front for better node density may make for a better/denser colas

 

[quantuman]

hii , i am growing 2 Lowryder #2 f and this is from day 20 from seeds with 400w mh in a week i switch to 400w hps