Light distance question
- Thread starter 4me2kn0
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Never mind what people say my friend, your plant looks like it's perfectly happy
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Right now your plant looks virtually perfect, I wouldn't change a damn thing.
But to get the most accurate assessment of where your lights should be i would get a light meter.
Can get a decent one for about $30.
Getting a good LUX reading is good enough to get you pretty darn close.
As long as you're using white LEDs.
Or a PAR meter like a "SpotOn" for about $325.
But to get the most accurate assessment of where your lights should be i would get a light meter.
Can get a decent one for about $30.
Getting a good LUX reading is good enough to get you pretty darn close.
As long as you're using white LEDs.
Or a PAR meter like a "SpotOn" for about $325.
Goes by stage as closer when in Flower than when you in Veg it is farther away. If you found someone with that exact light they could give you a ballpark idea, but it can vary by Strain or by plant even so just move slowly closer until it don't like it if you were looking to do that but I wouldn't personally. As other post said it looks happy so can keep with that or go up a bit until Flower as it will stretch more if that what you looking for, as it goes to the light. I ran different lights but all LED from blurple to more modern LED, but seemed I was always 12"-15" in Flower and 18"-24" in Veg that I recall.
Delps8
Well-Known Member
Check the manufacturer's web site for recommendations and you'll see that you're at the recommended height. After you hit that link, scroll about ⅔ down the page to "Flexible Dimming Knob" and you'll see the manufacturer's recommendations.
Delps8
Well-Known Member
Things will turn out pretty well, light-wise, using the manufacturer's recommended hang height and dimmer settings.
I agree your plant looks great and, dollars to doughnuts, it would do better with more light. With LED's, it's not easy to give a plant too much light, assuming that your grow environment is squared away. Many grow lights, especially the smaller ones, don't generate enough light across the canopy to raise the light level to hit the "light saturation point" for cannabis.
If you spend the $35 or so on a light meter, you can adjust the hang height and dimmer setting to get your plants to LST. In cannabis, the LST is 800-1000µmols (micro moles).
Plant quality, plant yield, crop quality, and crop yield increase as light levels increase. Research has shown that it is almost a linear relationship. If you're looking to compare the increased cost of electricity vs increased value of the crop, the extra cost of electricity is less than the value of the increase in value of the crop.
To get your plants to the light saturation point you can use a meter and set your lights to ≈900µmols and then "adjust fire" or use the manufacturer's recommended setting and adjust fire or just turn it up to what looks good and adjust it in.
My recommendation is to use a meter. I use a PAR meter but I have tested a Uni-T lux meter on a variety of lights and the conversion factor of 0.015 is accurate. That is, if your light meter indicates 1000 lux, that's a PPFD of 150±µmols. A PAR meter is very accurate and will cost you >=$300. A light meter is very accurate and will cost you $35.
In short, your plant looks great, check out the manufacturer's recommendations re. hang height and dimmer setting, and a PAR meter or lux meter will "remove all doubt".
I agree your plant looks great and, dollars to doughnuts, it would do better with more light. With LED's, it's not easy to give a plant too much light, assuming that your grow environment is squared away. Many grow lights, especially the smaller ones, don't generate enough light across the canopy to raise the light level to hit the "light saturation point" for cannabis.
If you spend the $35 or so on a light meter, you can adjust the hang height and dimmer setting to get your plants to LST. In cannabis, the LST is 800-1000µmols (micro moles).
Plant quality, plant yield, crop quality, and crop yield increase as light levels increase. Research has shown that it is almost a linear relationship. If you're looking to compare the increased cost of electricity vs increased value of the crop, the extra cost of electricity is less than the value of the increase in value of the crop.
To get your plants to the light saturation point you can use a meter and set your lights to ≈900µmols and then "adjust fire" or use the manufacturer's recommended setting and adjust fire or just turn it up to what looks good and adjust it in.
My recommendation is to use a meter. I use a PAR meter but I have tested a Uni-T lux meter on a variety of lights and the conversion factor of 0.015 is accurate. That is, if your light meter indicates 1000 lux, that's a PPFD of 150±µmols. A PAR meter is very accurate and will cost you >=$300. A light meter is very accurate and will cost you $35.
In short, your plant looks great, check out the manufacturer's recommendations re. hang height and dimmer setting, and a PAR meter or lux meter will "remove all doubt".
Nunyabiz
Well-Known Member
Configuration of the LED also has an effect on hanging height.
Mine is a strip light and I can run 1200+PAR at just 6" from canopy in mid to late flower no problem.
Where a Quantum board at that much PAR would most likely roast it and probably need to be at least 12" or more.
Mine is a strip light and I can run 1200+PAR at just 6" from canopy in mid to late flower no problem.
Where a Quantum board at that much PAR would most likely roast it and probably need to be at least 12" or more.
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