Leaves Shriveling - Help!!

WhiteDynomite

New Member
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Gahhh!

Some info ...

Leaf margins started turning a pasty light green and spread. Multiple nodes are affected but mostly at the lower end of the plant. These aren't even the worst pictures. There are now a few leave sets that folding inwards and look like they're about to die.

Plant is 30 days in veg. I'm now on a 4 day feeding cycle. Last feed was water only because I was showing a little nute burn throughout the plant.

I tested soil and PH yesterday (one day after I noticed problem). Phosphorous level was extremely low and Potassium was on the low end. Nitrogen was high. PH was slightly acidic - between 6.0 - 6.5 somewhere.

Called a local nursery and they said to heavy water the plant for the next two feedings instead of screwing around with nutrients.

Does that sound right??? The leaves are progressively getting worse and I'm concerned. Any advice!!???

Thanks
 
Yes looks like my last grow using salt based fertilisers. I would def give them nothing but water for awhile.
My advice is to grow in no less than 5 gallon containers in soil.
Give up the salt based nutes go with something organic and forget about phing when you have big enough containers the soil adjust its self.
This was my grow with salt based ferts
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pretty sad huh I told those plant your going on my schedule and they said screw you bro.
this is what good soil and organics can achieve no ph.
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:peace:
 
That sucks bro! Did those recover??

I'm new at this game so I don't know enough about the soil fertz, outside of the basics anyway. No clue about salt but I can buy that theory since I can't find any damn pictures of a similar problem that look like what my lil girl is having. It's not for a lack of searchin.

I'm using Black Gold organic soil 0.5/0.0/0.0 and so far I've been adding General Organics BioThrive/BioRoot and Cad Mag every feeding cept one right after I re-potted. That was right after the second set of real leaves. Now are all salt problems due to nute lock? Cause I don't think I'm pushing it and she's only a month old...

Thanks for the input. Your first pic is the closest I've seen compared to my plant.. :high-five:

I'll water it out and see what happens..



Those are some nice looking plants down below, man ...nice work.
 
That sucks bro! Did those recover??

I'm new at this game so I don't know enough about the soil fertz, outside of the basics anyway. No clue about salt but I can buy that theory since I can't find any damn pictures of a similar problem that look like what my lil girl is having. It's not for a lack of searchin.

I'm using Black Gold organic soil 0.5/0.0/0.0 and so far I've been adding General Organics BioThrive/BioRoot and Cad Mag every feeding cept one right after I re-potted. That was right after the second set of real leaves. Now are all salt problems due to nute lock? Cause I don't think I'm pushing it and she's only a month old...

Thanks for the input. Your first pic is the closest I've seen compared to my plant.. :high-five:

I'll water it out and see what happens..



Those are some nice looking plants down below, man ...nice work.

I looked into the fertilisers you are using and they should be all organics and your soil is a great brand.
Did you happen to get any fertilizer or water on the leaves this could do that to them also. the liquid on the leaves acts like a magnifing glass and will burn them. Unless it was the calmag its not organic.

My plants did recover some what but they were def stunted. Your question of salt based nutes is no, not the only problem with them you can also over feed and burn them up.

Dont get me wrong you can grow some nice looking cannabis with salt based ferts in soil but its a constant ph this ph that flush flush flush.
Its just not natural for them. The soil and microbes should feed the plant not us. Sounds crazy to me at first but its so much easier and cheaper to grow this way!

Your more than welcome to take a peak at my journals I have in my signature below! Read Docbuds journals to he is a pioneer of organic cannibis growing.
I also encourage you to start a grow journal you will get tons of help and if you let me know when its up I will be the first to subscribe.:thumb:
 
hey bro,

i could be WAY off here but it kinda looks like they are being over watered or have 'wet feet'. if so and they suffered nute burn, personally, i would have dispensed with the heavy waterings and just flushed them- letting water run through the soil mix freely for 10-15 mins ea- similar to if we burned our own hand and ran it under water for 20-30 mins... then let them recover from the nute burn for a few days-week feeding with water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil became dry.

it doesnt SEEM like a pota deficiency at all... but it COULD be a phos deficiency seeings she is still in vegetative, especially if you notice tinges of purplish discolouration, dark greenish or even yellowish tinges...

soil PH doesnt seem excessive 6-6.5 seems like an ok level for soil.. but obviously wouldnt want higher than that

while i will always support organics i dont believe there is anything wrong with chemical nutrients(inorganic salts).. plants are more than able to convert inorganic salts into organics salts as part of their anabolic processes :cheesygrinsmiley: and ive grown with them for 20 odd years now with no probs ;]

all the best!
:Namaste:
 
gittergreen said:
Did you happen to get any fertilizer or water on the leaves this could do that to them also. the liquid on the leaves acts like a magnifing glass and will burn them. Unless it was the calmag its not organic.

Nope and I understand where you're going with this. Large percentage of affected leaves aren't near water sites so I'm pretty sure I'm good there. That's not to mention that the problem has become worse..

Alkhemist said:
i could be WAY off here but it kinda looks like they are being over watered or have 'wet feet'. if so and they suffered nute burn, personally, i would have dispensed with the heavy waterings and just flushed them- letting water run through the soil mix freely for 10-15 mins ea- similar to if we burned our own hand and ran it under water for 20-30 mins... then let them recover from the nute burn for a few days-week feeding with water only when the top 1-2 inches of soil became dry.

I went ahead and flushed it 4 days ago. Ran 3 gallons of declorinated tap through the container outside and took it in later. But I'm at a bit of a loss at this point because the problem has deteriorated..

I don't believe I've been over-watering since the beginning. The Black Gold retains well but I've been doing the 3" rule when checking and that's been bringing me in at a feeding cycle of 7 days since the first pot, which doesn't seem excessive. I'll give the leaves a spray every few days and I don't foliar feed nutes.

Well, here is how she's looking now..

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1) Entire plant now seems to be affected 4 days after "flush".
2) New growth coming up with brown tips (this is the first time this has happened throughout growth)
3) Light pasty green spots are present but others are starting to turn brown
4) Quite a few old and new growth is deforming and shriveling up regardless of size

Right now I have her in a closet. Temp - 75 / rH - 70. Soil temperature has been a bit cold since the flush. Don't have a soil thermometer right now.

So it looks like I either have nute lockout (phosphorous), nute burn or both. I took a look here: Nute Lockout and I'm going to try and shock her to shit by re-flushing with a leeching agent. I'll give it another 3-4 days, water and then begin phosphorous treatment. I think I'll skip the superthrive piece of the treatment.

Questions

- I realize soil medium grows don't react quickly to change. How soon after a flushing could I expect to see a change in plant (bad or good) grown in soil?
- If it's phosphorous problem should I address that now or wait until after leeching to add nutrient? It seems to me if it's a deficiency I should take care of what might be causing the def first and then treat.
- When leeching, should I loosen up soil in the pot first or just run the agent through as the soil is now? I don't want to shock the plant any more than it has already been....

You know, I didn't realize that this little experiment of mine was going to be so challenging. It seems ridiculous compared to other indoor plants I've worked with but then again, maybe I'm approaching it with way more sensitivity and I'm doing more harm than good with over-modifying this and that. It's almost as if I'd be better off if I just threw a few seeds into a balanced fertilizing soil and just watered it for three months...

Anyway ..thanks again for sharing all that expertise.. your help is much appreciated!
 
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