Is this MG deficiency?

[Bimmer85]

Can someone chime in to what this can be I want to foliar feed with some epsome salt but would love to hear some opinions

 

[wyrman]

Re: Is this MG deficiency???

HEY Bimmer, wish I could help but I am really new to growing.. I'll check back to see if any of the more experienced growers give an answer, Good luck, I may one day have to know what causes this same thing, does that even make sense,lol.

 

[JJ Bones]

Re: Is this MG deficiency???

We need more information to help you, what is the pH what soil are you using etc

Also if it's 15% humidity that's a big problem, you need to increase it at least 30%

 

[Bimmer85]

Im using 5gal buckets with a MG organic soil with ROOTS bloom and a little SUPER TEA "grow" mixed in. They are under 1000w MH and using a AN 3 part base and some Atami rootbastic for nutes. I didnt really think to test the PH or the runoff since I figured the soil would be a natural buffer. I was hoping I could get away with low RH (15%) since I have 3 5gal DWC buckets next to them as well and they are only a little behind in size (only 1 of 3 has roots out of the net pot visible in the water) but they are healthy otherwise. The space is in a garage which has a furnace running and has a turtle tank next to the setup (thought this would keep humidity levels alright but obviously not). Ill add an old humidifier I have lying around to fix the RH tomorrow morning. I really wish I knew what this could be, its so frustrating

 

[KarlJay]

1000W is huge for those plants, how far are they from the lamp? I used MG in my 1st round because the other stores weren't open. I used FFOF after that. I too made the mistake of not checking the PH on the 1st watering, it was very high and they've really bounced back since then.

Another issue might be too many nutes, you are in soil, they don't need nutes for about 2 weeks.

1. get the PH test kit and PH soil tester so you at least have some clue where the PH is.
2. stop the nutes, based on the size and them being in soil, you don't need nutes for a few weeks (I'm assuming the grow is about 1 week in soil)

3. make sure they are far from the light, maybe even just use some T5s or 100W CFLs

Check my grow, I'm using nothing but T5s and CFLs and I'm 2 weeks in on some and 3 weeks in on the others. The tall skinny ones are 2 weeks old and 17" tall. I just started nutes (GH 3 pac, micro.bloom,gro) 6 days ago (2nd watering today).

My point is that you may be overdoing it with the nutes and I can't tell about the light, but based on the temp, you're probably 36" away?

My RH was in the 70 range and I dropped it to the 40s, they seem to like what I'm doing so far...

 

[gairbud]

Can someone chime in to what this can be I want to foliar feed with some epsome salt but would love to hear some opinions

water and nute issue . and humidity as well. are those home depot pots and did ya put alot of drain holes in them. also water only around the plants about 6 inches away. dont use nutes for about 4 to 6 weeks in the soil.
get a sprayer and spray water on them. get floalicious too and use at 1/4 strenth . also if useing 1000watters keep them about 2 feet away. best to use t5 or cfl [compact floresents.]
never add nutes to soils. if going to do that use a organic compost at 1/6th strength. i almost never have a new person use nutes of anykind in a 5 gallon system. for the entire grow. if about a 4 month grow. ya dont need it. if ya want ya can add a flowering organic at 1/2 strength . but ya really got everything in the good soils that are out there and sometimes too much nutes there. what did the soil say was the nutes in it. 10/10/10 is good 20/20/20 is better if your seeds started in the soil. micro nutes and minerals can be added when needed. or use superthrive when watering it has 99% of everything ya need at 1 drop per gallon of water. cal mag and or ebson salts for mag/sulfates if needed. normally not needed till flowering stages or late veg in a soil grow.
really your problem is easy to fix. spray water on them and up the humidity do that and raise the lights before doing anything else. they need water but dont water the soil right now. spray them. 2 or 3 times per day. plants like between 40 to 60% humidity during the seedling and veg stage 50 to 70% for clones. about 30 to 50% in the flowering stage.

 

[gairbud]

also please include evrything you did from start to finish . how you germinated , did ya use cubes of some typa. did ya have roots sticking out of the cubes ect. soil grows are really cool and easy best to transplant to your soil asap as soon as they sprout up from a cube. the tap root can handle the soils diference in nutes but the roots canot handle as well if sticking out when ya did it. best to use the same soil your growing in to put cracked open germinated seedlings in. or match the ph. do not ph the water in sprays use tap or r/o. the plant uses only what it needs and directs its cycle to where it needs in your case to the roots to be able to handle the condition.

 

[gairbud]

i added a few pics so you can see and learn from it.all the charts are on this site and ya can download them. use as a guide. charts are not the strick law of growing but as a guide to get ya there.

 

[KarlJay]

Where can we get one of those nute def charts, the one with all the leaf pic on it? I can't read where it came from, I'd like to have one of my own.

 

[gairbud]

the leaf chart is in this 420 forum ill try and find where i got it.

 

[gairbud]

Plant Abuse Chart and look into faq there are tons of info and pic examples and remedies here in 420. always post your conditions in your grow journal first it may get ya a quick response. but go to faq or the search engine and type problem in .there is more info here then in the library of congress lmao. the chart is just a guide thats all. in most cases when a new grower runs into an issue it is almost always a combination of issues that led to your plants experiancing a condition. the best way to remedy a soil issue is flood the pots out if in 5 gallon pots flood 10 gallons of water thru them. then dont water for awhile . if you have wet soil already the best way is to water spray your plants till the get used to the soil they are in. then when that soil is dry you can water flush it. you dont want to damage roots by root rot. if they having problems and the soil is wet. like in your pics. they cant get water from the soil. you need to up the humidity and water spray the leaf after a few day they should start to recover and you can foilier feed them. spray feed. the recomendation is 3 sprays of water per day or when they need it and to add one spraying every other day of spray nutes [floralicious plus ] is the best out there to use and cheep as you only need to use very little of it. some of the other that have seaweed in it also work good. dont worry . we can save them for sure. i will go over with you on many other things. but i need you to give me all the info requested from start to now. the for sure way to get the right help. do not be embarest or feel like your dumb your not. your just excited to be a grower and everyone here[me too] have made many mistakes along our path to being veteran growers. even today i still run into issues but i am well equipted to solve them and have all the veterans here to pull knowledge from and this site. the more you tell us the easyer it is to help. transplant shock can show up just like your plant pics but that is only one thing. you have many issues. and we will solve them all. just spray water on the leaf for now and let the soil dry. we dont want root rot that is a harder one to fix. over nute transplant shock ect is way easyer to fix.

 

[gairbud]

the reason you will water spray is this.
they need water. let the soil dry some more. spray only the plants.

 

[gairbud]

the reason you need to feed them with water spray[nutes;floralicious plus] is this.
the nutriants in the soil[nitrogen] will draw water out of your plants cause the ratio of nutes in the soil to nutes in the plant is way to great a differeance and nitrogen is a water sponge [laymen terms] . so feeding them with a folier spray[1 time every other day] gives them nutes they will need to build up in themselfs to over come the nutes in the soil so the plant can take up water and nutes from the soil.
because you already corected the humidity issue and the lights to close issue also put your fan farther away from the plants area or put it on its own timer and only run it 1/3 the time. a 15mintue increment timer is ideal. as you can put several 15 minute time periods throughout the 24hr day.

 

[Green Knight]

Hey bimmer; I think it's unlikely to be a Mg deficiency. Mg def is very distinctive. I got it a while back and the leaves yellw and you're left with distinctive green veins:

This is very useful for diagnosing problems: Cannabis Plant and Pest Problem Solver - Pictorial

Agree with JJ; I think the first and most important thing to correct is your humidity- 15% is very very low. It's quite easy to try lots of different things to correct a problem and this can sometimes make things worse as you never get to the real cause of the symptoms, and can sometimes make them worse by adding / reducing nutes etc when this isn't the underlying cause of the problem.

Try one thing at a time and start with the most obvious. The leaves are curling up which implies too much transpiration causing the leaf edges to curl / dry out and burn. The RH is really very low and this will cause excessive transpiration, so I would be tempted in the first instance to increase the RH. I wouldn't necessarily increase nutes as they're not really showing a deficiency in my opinion.

For veg ideally you want an RH above 50%, ideal would be around 60%-70% (rooting 80-90%, flowering 40-60%). The damaged leaves are unlikely to completely recover so watch the new growth, that will tell you if the problem is resolved.

If you get the RH up (and the lights aren't too close) and there's no improvement after a few days then try and rule out the next possible cause which could be a nute toxicity - I need to look it up as I can't remember off the top of my head but I think potassium tox causes excess transpiration and leaves curling up - I'll check.

 

[Green Knight]

Right, just checked and actually it's a potassium deficiency, not toxicity, that causes the edges of leaves to curl up - it causes the internal leaf temp to rise and excessive transpiration. I would be surprised if it was a K def at this stage though (it's needed far more in flower) and you're in soil, so too low an RH is the most obvious cause (in my opinion) at this stage.

 

[Bimmer85]

Thanks for the replies With your guys advice and a little research I've narrowed it down to the low RH. I've got only one grow under my belt which was outside from aug to dec (brought the ladies inside mid September to keep them in veg and finished harvest Christmas.) the reason I'm saying this is I had them in the same space but furnace wasn't on most of the day which is high efficiency and has a condensate drain which is constantly dripping and is essentially a big dehumidifier. Anyway I've added a bucket with rags wicking moisture as well as a wet towel and got RH to 39% which they seem to like. I'm also going to drape the surrounding area around them with clear plastic drop cloths and spray them twice a day and see what that will do for the RH, and if I don't get it to at least 50-55% I'm going to dig around my basement and find a old humidifier I have. I'd add it now but trying to run avoid running electric if I can get around it. I know it's not a lot but still adds up with the 1000w running GLR. Hopefully they'll recover quickly... They seem to have just literally frozen. Not perky or really droopy. Just there. Oh well. Any other suggestions guys??? Thanks again!!!

 

[Bimmer85]

Btw I've got a tank of CO2 and have access to fill them easily. I'm going to make a big O using 1/4" black vinyle tubing I have (from pneumatic controls for those who are familiar) connet both ends to a 1/4" brass T. Then I'm make lots of tiny holes using a thumb tac. Hang it above the plants, connect it to a line running to my CO2 tank and run it with a very low flow half and hour in the morning and half and hour in the evening. I've tested this in water with air and it worked great so I'm assuming it will be good for my purposes. I've seen very similar hose kits for sale at my shop which gave my the idea. My question is how close to the plants should it be. I don't have $ now for a timer/dispenser so ill be guesstimating and doing it by hand and see how they react. How does this sound??? Suggestions or advice??

 

[Green Knight]

Sorry mate, I've got no experience of CO2 so not able to help. Jon705 and Tony Sussans are running sealed rooms with CO2 so will be able to advise (Jon's journal is generally up near the top of the Grows in Progress section as it moves pretty fast). I would think Gairbud's probably also got good knowledge around CO2 so may also be able to help

 

[Bimmer85]

Thanks GK