Is this a nutrient burn?

[bobj]

These plants are just over a month old, no problems except for a N deficiency to which I amended using an organic 7 3 3 fertilizer, sometime around June 11th. I have not added anything to the soil since then. There have been and are tips of my plant that look yellowed, and if you look you can even see, but this spot is the worst. I have not gotten tips of my plants where it looks burnt, until now. The tips look yellowed but not burnt. Now, they look burnt.

 

[Sueet]

Not likely nute burn if you are not giving nutes. More likely, the plant is asking for food and/or an up-pot.

 

[Phytoplankton]

Agree with @Sueet. Even if it was nute burn, which is unlikely, just the tips burnt isn’t a problem, it’s just the plant saying, OK, I’ve had enough! Use the fertilizer at the strength and frequency the manufacturer recommends.

 

[bobj]

Not likely nute burn if you are not giving nutes. More likely, the plant is asking for food and/or an up-pot.

I have not yet transplanted, they can react negatively to being pushed too hard in the first container?

So you figure it's a K deficiency? That was kind of my first suspicion too.

 

[Phytoplankton]

If the nutes your using are for cannabis, that’s great! If not, I’d suggest getting a suite of organic nutes for cannabis, (one brand) and follow the directions to the letter. That said, for veg, 7-3-3 isn’t bad. What kind of soil are you using?

 

[Roy Growin]

Slightly yellow tips and dark green leaves tells you N is near the limit, you need more K for exponential root growth
^ As above, up-pot and carry on

 

[SmokingWings]

I have not yet transplanted, they can react negatively to being pushed too hard in the first container?

Who is 'they'? Are these plants one of the "auto-flower" type? Many experienced growers do recommend to do as few transplantings as possible when growing an auto-flower.

Most likely the plant is starting to experience the beginning of the combination of becoming root-bound and a nutrient deficiency just because it has been growing so nicely in a very small pot up until when the photo was taken. The plant is large enough that it is demanding more from the soil than can be provided.

So you figure it's a K deficiency? That was kind of my first suspicion too.

At this point it could be a combination of Phosphorous (P) needed to promote root and stem growth and "the beginning of flowering" if it is an 'auto-flower'. And then Potassium (K) for the overall health of the plant including the roots and everything above ground level.

 

[bobj]

Who is 'they'? Are these plants one of the "auto-flower" type? Many experienced growers do recommend to do as few transplantings as possible when growing an auto-flower.

Most likely the plant is starting to experience the beginning of the combination of becoming root-bound and a nutrient deficiency just because it has been growing so nicely in a very small pot up until when the photo was taken. The plant is large enough that it is demanding more from the soil than can be provided.


At this point it could be a combination of Phosphorous (P) needed to promote root and stem growth and "the beginning of flowering" if it is an 'auto-flower'. And then Potassium (K) for the overall health of the plant including the roots and everything above ground level.

These are photoperiod plants I'm growing. I'm only transplanting once, from seedling pot to final container.

 

[bluter]

These are photoperiod plants I'm growing. I'm only transplanting once, from seedling pot to final container.

that one looks like it's wanting the next pot.

 

[bobj]

that one looks like it's wanting the next pot.

I've never transplanted before and I feel stupid for asking.

What are the most optimal conditions I'm trying to achieve in both containers I'm using to transplant?

What I mean by this is, I've got my final container readied, the dirt is in there, nothing else. I try to clear some way using this little shovel I bought, but the earth falls back in around where I cleared. Is there a technique I can employ to sort of 'shore' the walls in so that I can place my plant? I've watered my plant as per usual routine every morning. How long do I want to wait for the water to dry up before popping the plant out?

 

[Roy Growin]

Use a an empty pot of the same size and back-fill, then just plop your plant in the hole and water in

 

[SmokingWings]

I've never transplanted before and I feel stupid for asking.

What are the most optimal conditions I'm trying to achieve in both containers I'm using to transplant?

The most optimal condition is confidence first and all the way through the transplanting. It actually is pretty easy and it is the plant that does the heavy work when it starts to grow the roots.

What I would do is put some soil in the new pot, pick up the first one and give it a squeeze around the sides to loosen it up a bit and turn it upside down with my fingers on the other hand over the dirt. With practice the plant and root mass and dirt will come out as one piece.

Put that into the new pot and judge where the new soil surface will be in relation to the old. I prefer the old surface to be a 1/2 inch or more below the new. And I plan ahead because I like the new surface to be approx 1/3 to 1/2 inch below the rim of the new pot. Then I start to put soil in around the plant filling in the gap all the way around. I very lightly tap the now soil to help it settle but I do not pack it down tight.

Up to you but I make notes when I transplant with the date. Some people make their notes on a piece of paper they keep handy and some find it convenient to write on the wall. I use a piece of blue masking tape and stick it on the side of the new pot.