Is this a calcium issue?

[gazmufc]

Hey folks

Im just starting week 5 of flower. I've 5 purple kush in LOS, under marshydro6500e in a 4x4.
All have looked healthy until abiut 1 day ago I noticed the biggest one starting to get small brown spots, along with paling of the leaf, patchy paling, not all paling at once. . I've noticed this on the fan leaves from top to bottom. Not on the newer smaller leaves.

I have been making some changes to the tent in the last week or so, increasing Par, and also started extracting the heat from my dehumidifier.
Before this the temps in the tent were 30/32c, so figured it was good time to reduce the temps as I am in week 5 now. I don't want to cook off the trichome heads.

I gave this plant a banana tea about 5 days ago, and wondering has that effected it in a negative way. The leaves are also bowing downwards. So she's defo not a happy camper!! We like happy campers around don't we

Current temps 25c, rh is 55/60.. Ph of the soil is 7.0..and I'm currently on about 1100 par. (measuring with phone app, so probably not the most accurate)

I've a notion it's calicum deficiency but that's going by the charts. Would be curious what ya'll think. I've noticed as well since I started extracting the heat out of the tent all of em are drinking as much.. But this is the only one showing a problem, so I don't think it's a environmental issue. Cud be wrong, il go with what yous experienced growing think before my own reasoning lol..
I'm got a tea cooking up at the moment with worm casting. I don't have any cal/mag to supplement at the moment.

Hope the pictures are clear enough.

 

[zigzagman1960]

Your problem will most likely go away if you get the lights on temps back up. LEDs require 84f for proper nutrient uptake. So 30c ( maybe 29) is where you need to be.

 

[gazmufc]

Your problem will most likely go away if you get the lights on temps back up. LEDs require 84f for proper nutrient uptake. So 30c ( maybe 29) is where you need to be.

Thanks zig for taking the time to comment.. Ahh I'm stumped man, all other 4 plants not showing the same as the biggest one. I'm just curious if it was environmental, should it not be affecting them all?

It's getting worse on the biggest one as well. I haven't been using pH down on any of them, so thinking it can't be PH lockout otherwise it should be affecting them all. Temps are back up today to 28c and RH is at 50.
Would u give her a tea in this state.?

 

[Keffka]

Thanks zig for taking the time to comment.. Ahh I'm stumped man, all other 4 plants not showing the same as the biggest one. I'm just curious if it was environmental, should it not be affecting them all?

It's getting worse on the biggest one as well. I haven't been using pH down on any of them, so thinking it can't be PH lockout otherwise it should be affecting them all. Temps are back up today to 28c and RH is at 50.
Would u give her a tea in this state.?

It depends on what’s actually wrong. How big is this plant and how big is its container? It looks like P, K, and calcium in places. When it’s multiple issues like that, it’s oftentimes a lack of carbon in the soil from plants being too large for their pot, especially if it’s only one plant doing it out of multiple

If you have to go into rescue mode don’t give a tea any more than once every 10-14 days

 

[gazmufc]

It depends on what’s actually wrong. How big is this plant and how big is its container? It looks like P, K, and calcium in places. When it’s multiple issues like that, it’s oftentimes a lack of carbon in the soil from plants being too large for their pot, especially if it’s only one plant doing it out of multiple

If you have to go into rescue mode don’t give a tea any more than once every 10-14 days

Thank you for commenting Keffka.
The plant is just under2ft in a 20lt Sips.. I've been low stress training her around the bucket from early on. She was doing fine until about 3 days ago.

Have only gave her 2 teas so far.. 1 before flip, after defoliation at end of week 3 of flower I gave a banana tea for some extra potassium. Issues started with her then shortly after when I began to extract the heat from The dehumidifier outside the tent. Thinking I needed to get the temps a bit lower for last few weeks of flower.

Ah it's a real learning curve this game. It can definitely test you're patience. Lol.. What wud u do in my situation now? It's just this one plant, the rest are all healthy looking. smallish nugs, but at least their leaves are the right colour.

pot doesn't seem light enough to give her anything today. I'm afraid of overwatering her and causing more issues.. But I doubt the tea I'm brewing will be any good tomorrow. Thanks for any feedback. I appreciate it..

 

[Keffka]

Thank you for commenting Keffka.
The plant is just under2ft in a 20lt Sips.. I've been low stress training her around the bucket from early on. She was doing fine until about 3 days ago.

Have only gave her 2 teas so far.. 1 before flip, after defoliation at end of week 3 of flower I gave a banana tea for some extra potassium. Issues started with her then shortly after when I began to extract the heat from The dehumidifier outside the tent. Thinking I needed to get the temps a bit lower for last few weeks of flower.

Ah it's a real learning curve this game. It can definitely test you're patience. Lol.. What wud u do in my situation now? It's just this one plant, the rest are all healthy looking. smallish nugs, but at least their leaves are the right colour.

pot doesn't seem light enough to give her anything today. I'm afraid of overwatering her and causing more issues.. But I doubt the tea I'm brewing will be any good tomorrow. Thanks for any feedback. I appreciate it..

2 feet in 5 gallons shouldn’t give you carbon issues so I’m willing to set that idea on the back burner for now.

Is this plant the closest to your extractor? Or closest to a source of cool air? It could just be in an unfortunate spot.

@zigzagman1960 is correct about bumping your temps toward 85F even in flower when you’re under LED. I run at 84ish until the last 10-14 days of flower then I’ll bring it down slightly. Those temperatures are just as important for the soil and soil biology as the plant. Think about where cannabis thrives near the equator. Temperatures don’t cool off that much there and the product is amazing. However, being at 78f in week 5 really shouldn’t be showing this much.

What’s your myco situation? When growing organically in containers, myco is almost a must. It will provide as much as 50% of the P to your plants on its own but it needs to be established during germination to be able to keep up especially because the plant likes to accumulate nutrients during veg for flower

If it was an issue across multiple plants I would say it was medium related but since it’s just one we’ll try and narrow what’s going on with that one.

Any thoughts here @Gee64

 

[Gee64]

2 feet in 5 gallons shouldn’t give you carbon issues so I’m willing to set that idea on the back burner for now.

Is this plant the closest to your extractor? Or closest to a source of cool air? It could just be in an unfortunate spot.

@zigzagman1960 is correct about bumping your temps toward 85F even in flower when you’re under LED. I run at 84ish until the last 10-14 days of flower then I’ll bring it down slightly. Those temperatures are just as important for the soil and soil biology as the plant. Think about where cannabis thrives near the equator. Temperatures don’t cool off that much there and the product is amazing. However, being at 78f in week 5 really shouldn’t be showing this much.

What’s your myco situation? When growing organically in containers, myco is almost a must. It will provide as much as 50% of the P to your plants on its own but it needs to be established during germination to be able to keep up especially because the plant likes to accumulate nutrients during veg for flower

If it was an issue across multiple plants I would say it was medium related but since it’s just one we’ll try and narrow what’s going on with that one.

Any thoughts here @Gee64

Its LOS in a SIP. Chances are you need CalMag in the reservoir. @StoneOtter is a pro at this. Stone what calcium ratios would you use in the reservoir. Also check your PPFD. Yellow up top after turning your light up could be light burn. You may have 2 problems here.

 

[Porky82]

2nd pic look like it has bug damage.
Have a look under the leaves

 

[Porky82]

Your problem will most likely go away if you get the lights on temps back up. LEDs require 84f for proper nutrient uptake. So 30c ( maybe 29) is where you need to be.

Do they?

 

[gazmufc]

2 feet in 5 gallons shouldn’t give you carbon issues so I’m willing to set that idea on the back burner for now.

Is this plant the closest to your extractor? Or closest to a source of cool air? It could just be in an unfortunate spot.

@zigzagman1960 is correct about bumping your temps toward 85F even in flower when you’re under LED. I run at 84ish until the last 10-14 days of flower then I’ll bring it down slightly. Those temperatures are just as important for the soil and soil biology as the plant. Think about where cannabis thrives near the equator. Temperatures don’t cool off that much there and the product is amazing. However, being at 78f in week 5 really shouldn’t be showing this much.

What’s your myco situation? When growing organically in containers, myco is almost a must. It will provide as much as 50% of the P to your plants on its own but it needs to be established during germination to be able to keep up especially because the plant likes to accumulate nutrients during veg for flower

If it was an issue across multiple plants I would say it was medium related but since it’s just one we’ll try and narrow what’s going on with that one.

Any thoughts here @Gee64

I did inoculate with dynomyco at germination, and then again when I transplanted into the SIP,. But I haven't added any of that product since. Just been top dressing amendments every 2 weeks to the manufacturer guidance.
This plant is kinda in the middle. It was the biggest, the rest much smaller so it was the best fit. Wud the banana tea have messed them up do ya think?
Ianit good idea to have a ppm meter to test run off in organics and get an idea of the TDS of the medium?

These are expert seeds. I'm not very impressed with them Tbh, I'm not a seasoned grower.. But next round il defo be using different genetics. But what's that's saying, trades man should never blame the tools lol..

 

[gazmufc]

2nd pic look like it has bug damage.
Have a look under the leaves

Yes Porky you're correct, I've had thrips throughout this run. Have kept them undercontol tho. I introduced nematodes to the soil which eat the larve, and then I added predator mites satches to the plants. They done an amazing job tracking down the little fuckers that munch of the leaves and eating them. No, they haven't totally eradicated them. But defo have kept them under control. I have a large hedge row close to my back window.. It's impossible to keep these cunts outa my garden

 

[Porky82]

Yes Porky you're correct, I've had thrips throughout this run. Have kept them undercontol tho. I introduced nematodes to the soil which eat the larve, and then I added predator mites satches to the plants. They done an amazing job tracking down the little fuckers that munch of the leaves and eating them. No, they haven't totally eradicated them. But defo have kept them under control. I have a large hedge row close to my back window.. It's impossible to keep these cunts outa my garden

Yeah that would be a pissoff!!

 

[gazmufc]

Its LOS in a SIP. Chances are you need CalMag in the reservoir. @StoneOtter is a pro at this. Stone what calcium ratios would you use in the reservoir. Also check your PPFD. Yellow up top after turning your light up could be light burn. You may have 2 problems here.

Hey Gee

Thanks for dropping in and commenting.
Yikes man, I didn't think my par was as high as it was.. I'm only at 40% of my light and getting 1400 in the centre ..i know that's a bit much and have now dialed it back a bit. I don't have any cal/mag at the moment. But I've a wormcast tea brewing. It has cal/mag in it right? Or maybe not enough.
Wud bio buzz cal/mag be worth getting? I can get it local and wud be here by Monday.
Did you Ever have that grow were you're just like " meh let's get this over with already so I can move on to the next" that's kinda were I'm at right now..

 

[Gee64]

Hey Gee

Thanks for dropping in and commenting.
Yikes man, I didn't think my par was as high as it was.. I'm only at 40% of my light and getting 1400 in the centre ..i know that's a bit much and have now dialed it back a bit. I don't have any cal/mag at the moment. But I've a wormcast tea brewing. It has cal/mag in it right? Or maybe not enough.
Wud bio buzz cal/mag be worth getting? I can get it local and wud be here by Monday.
Did you Ever have that grow were you're just like " meh let's get this over with already so I can move on to the next" that's kinda were I'm at right now..

Im not an expert on using or brands of calmag, and yes EWC has calcium in it, but I find its only enough to maintain calcium, not recover from a deficiency.

Calcium, when added to the top of a pot needs to be top watered in so it can sink down.

I messed with SWICK's which are similar to SIPS, and without top watering I had all sorts of calcium issues.

Stoneotter uses SIPS with calmag in the reservoir and has fantastic success with it.

 

[zigzagman1960]

Do they?

With LEDs, you’ll save a lot on your cooling bill because you can and should keep your ambient temperature higher.​

Grow rooms that use HPS have to stay cooler because of how much the HPS infrared radiation heats up the plants. If they let the room heat up too much their plants will become damaged and inefficient. For instance, if a grow room is 85oF/29oC and a HPS heats up your plant’s leaves by another 7 degrees or more, then your plants have now reached into the 90’s F / upper 30’s C. The effects of this can dramatically affect your bottom line of harvest.

With LEDs, you can and should keep your plants at between 83 and 85oF. This saves you on your cooling bill and optimizes your plant’s growth. At this range of temperatures, the chemical reactions involved in photosynthesis take place faster and more effectively.

As you begin to keep your ambient temperature higher and you primarily accomplish that through reduced ventilation, you will want to pay attention to three related environmental parameters – humidity, CO2 concentration, and the difference between your daytime and nighttime temperatures.

Higher ambient temperatures have the ability to both hold more water and evaporate more water. This can be fine within a certain range, but if the humidity gets too high then plant fungal infections can become an issue. To combat that, it may be wise to dehumidify and/or ventilate more.

This topic can become acutely important when you have an excessive range of temperatures between your day and night times. If during the day you have very warm conditions with high relative humidity followed by a very cool night, then the likelihood of dew forming on your plant becomes high. This can quickly become fungal heaven.

There are many ways to tackle this complex subject and keep your plants within optimal ranges, but one is to run a heat-producing CO2 generator, such as a propane or a natural gas CO2 generator, at night. This will elevate your night temperatures to prevent condensation from forming and store up CO2 in the air for daytime photosynthesis. An important bonus for keeping your day and night times similar (within 5 degrees) is that you will reduce stretching and increase branching. The difference between the average daytime and nighttime temperatures is referred to as DIF and is an area of active research.

 

[StoneOtter]

Its LOS in a SIP. Chances are you need CalMag in the reservoir. @StoneOtter is a pro at this. Stone what calcium ratios would you use in the reservoir. Also check your PPFD. Yellow up top after turning your light up could be light burn. You may have 2 problems here.

I use 4 ml in a gallon of ro water. That gives me 60+ ppm of the cal/mag I'm using every rez top off. Or with auto watering, 4 ml a day down the rez.

5 out of 5 plants grown in SIP needed this in my LOS. I'm going to add a huge amount of dolomite lime to my mix next one and see how it goes.

 

[gazmufc]

With LEDs, you’ll save a lot on your cooling bill because you can and should keep your ambient temperature higher.​

Grow rooms that use HPS have to stay cooler because of how much the HPS infrared radiation heats up the plants. If they let the room heat up too much their plants will become damaged and inefficient. For instance, if a grow room is 85oF/29oC and a HPS heats up your plant’s leaves by another 7 degrees or more, then your plants have now reached into the 90’s F / upper 30’s C. The effects of this can dramatically affect your bottom line of harvest.

With LEDs, you can and should keep your plants at between 83 and 85oF. This saves you on your cooling bill and optimizes your plant’s growth. At this range of temperatures, the chemical reactions involved in photosynthesis take place faster and more effectively.

As you begin to keep your ambient temperature higher and you primarily accomplish that through reduced ventilation, you will want to pay attention to three related environmental parameters – humidity, CO2 concentration, and the difference between your daytime and nighttime temperatures.

Higher ambient temperatures have the ability to both hold more water and evaporate more water. This can be fine within a certain range, but if the humidity gets too high then plant fungal infections can become an issue. To combat that, it may be wise to dehumidify and/or ventilate more.

This topic can become acutely important when you have an excessive range of temperatures between your day and night times. If during the day you have very warm conditions with high relative humidity followed by a very cool night, then the likelihood of dew forming on your plant becomes high. This can quickly become fungal heaven.

There are many ways to tackle this complex subject and keep your plants within optimal ranges, but one is to run a heat-producing CO2 generator, such as a propane or a natural gas CO2 generator, at night. This will elevate your night temperatures to prevent condensation from forming and store up CO2 in the air for daytime photosynthesis. An important bonus for keeping your day and night times similar (within 5 degrees) is that you will reduce stretching and increase branching. The difference between the average daytime and nighttime temperatures is referred to as DIF and is an area of active research.

Interesting that zig it all makes sense.. Yeah there's not a big swing in my day nte time temps compared to lights on. Defo under the 5c u mention. Keeping my dehumidifier on now to keep the heat up to see what happens.. Appreciate the feedback bud..

I use 4 ml in a gallon of ro water. That gives me 60+ ppm of the cal/mag I'm using every rez top off. Or with auto watering, 4 ml a day down the rez.

5 out of 5 plants grown in SIP needed this in my LOS. I'm going to add a huge amount of dolomite lime to my mix next one and see how it goes.

Thanks for dropping by and commenting Stoner. The guys I got my amendments from told me I shouldn't need to add cal/mag. Il Defo be taking you're advice over theres lol
Gonna order some today. I guess then to interpret the other 4 plans not showing the same signs is probably down to biggest one out of the 5 being more hungry for it than the others and showing it first. I've seen here few times people discussing using synthetic with organics.. Idk man I just don't seem to get anywhere near the results others do with organics. Ders a channel on YT, "home growntv". His method is 70% coco 30% worm castings adding a little minerals. He mixies the same then for transplantation From solo to bigger container, with the same mixes, and then after few weeks of the plants being in bugger containers he starts feeding them with synthetics nutes.. His results are amazing, he has won like awards at cannabis cups in Colombia. I can't seem to get the balences right using dry amendments. It's my 4th run and once again it's messed up lol.. Think I might go down the coco route next run, I don't know what to do. What wud be you're advice?

 

[Gee64]

Interesting that zig it all makes sense.. Yeah there's not a big swing in my day nte time temps compared to lights on. Defo under the 5c u mention. Keeping my dehumidifier on now to keep the heat up to see what happens.. Appreciate the feedback bud..

Thanks for dropping by and commenting Stoner. The guys I got my amendments from told me I shouldn't need to add cal/mag. Il Defo be taking you're advice over theres lol
Gonna order some today. I guess then to interpret the other 4 plans not showing the same signs is probably down to biggest one out of the 5 being more hungry for it than the others and showing it first. I've seen here few times people discussing using synthetic with organics.. Idk man I just don't seem to get anywhere near the results others do with organics. Ders a channel on YT, "home growntv". His method is 70% coco 30% worm castings adding a little minerals. He mixies the same then for transplantation From solo to bigger container, with the same mixes, and then after few weeks of the plants being in bugger containers he starts feeding them with synthetics nutes.. His results are amazing, he has won like awards at cannabis cups in Colombia. I can't seem to get the balences right using dry amendments. It's my 4th run and once again it's messed up lol.. Think I might go down the coco route next run, I don't know what to do. What wud be you're advice?

Are all your plants in SIPS? Were the 4 previous failed runs in Sips? Sips are different than normal pots.

 

[Keffka]

With LEDs, you’ll save a lot on your cooling bill because you can and should keep your ambient temperature higher.​

Grow rooms that use HPS have to stay cooler because of how much the HPS infrared radiation heats up the plants. If they let the room heat up too much their plants will become damaged and inefficient. For instance, if a grow room is 85oF/29oC and a HPS heats up your plant’s leaves by another 7 degrees or more, then your plants have now reached into the 90’s F / upper 30’s C. The effects of this can dramatically affect your bottom line of harvest.

With LEDs, you can and should keep your plants at between 83 and 85oF. This saves you on your cooling bill and optimizes your plant’s growth. At this range of temperatures, the chemical reactions involved in photosynthesis take place faster and more effectively.

As you begin to keep your ambient temperature higher and you primarily accomplish that through reduced ventilation, you will want to pay attention to three related environmental parameters – humidity, CO2 concentration, and the difference between your daytime and nighttime temperatures.

Higher ambient temperatures have the ability to both hold more water and evaporate more water. This can be fine within a certain range, but if the humidity gets too high then plant fungal infections can become an issue. To combat that, it may be wise to dehumidify and/or ventilate more.

This topic can become acutely important when you have an excessive range of temperatures between your day and night times. If during the day you have very warm conditions with high relative humidity followed by a very cool night, then the likelihood of dew forming on your plant becomes high. This can quickly become fungal heaven.

There are many ways to tackle this complex subject and keep your plants within optimal ranges, but one is to run a heat-producing CO2 generator, such as a propane or a natural gas CO2 generator, at night. This will elevate your night temperatures to prevent condensation from forming and store up CO2 in the air for daytime photosynthesis. An important bonus for keeping your day and night times similar (within 5 degrees) is that you will reduce stretching and increase branching. The difference between the average daytime and nighttime temperatures is referred to as DIF and is an area of active research.

So I’ve read in quite a few places you want a 10-15 degree temperature difference between lights on and off. This is especially true if you’re trying to pull colors like purple out of the plant, I’ve read.

However, this is something I typically cannot achieve since I run lights on at night now. This would also explain why even though my plants are in stretch, they’re not running as high as I’d expected and are branching far more. My temperatures are typically similar or separated only by a few degrees. This is my first time running at night and I’ve already seen many bonuses to it when I thought it was gonna be a real problem

This is a fascinating little tidbit of information. Off to google, thanks!

 

[gazmufc]

Are all your plants in SIPS? Were the 4 previous failed runs in Sips? Sips are different than normal pots.

Na, this run only 3 are in Sips and 2 in pots... 1 fabric, and 1 plastic.. Bit of a miss match lol.. I've been giving them, water /feed/water way as to not overload them with to much salt build up.

Water then liquid seasweed usually that wud be a full week. Then
Water/ silca next week
Then Water /fish shit, and then back to plain water.

Previous runs where in fabric pots. They were autos, panty punch from seedstockers. Real nice autos imo.. The the grow it's self wasn't bad in terms of how the buds came out, had little issues throughout the grow. Real frosty nice terps, smallest buds but I didn't mind that at all. It was the drying and curing that messed up. It took 15 days to get the snapping of the branches.

Then I cured for abiut 5 weeks until I sampled some, they smelled amazing but real black ash, and was horrible to smoke.. Was still a bit to much moisture inside the buds. I tired leaving them out to burp a little longer, but cud never get the harsh taste out of them.

I done a lot of reading up here and other places trying to figure out what if done wrong. I was a little greedy, and paid for it. I only have 1 decent extraction fan, I should of used my tent for drying which had the food a infinity extractor. I didn't wanna wait the 2 weeks, was to impetient to get the next grow started. Made the awful decision to dry in down stairs bathroom thinking the little outlet in the ceiling wud be enough for venting.

I learned that if u don't extarct that mostuire from the plants early on in the dry, the mostuire can go back into the buds and apparently it fks up for good then.
It was soo harsh to smoke it wasn't even funny. It wasn't all bad tho, I had a few friends who actually bloody didn't mind smoking it, so ended up selling most of it, and then going and buying some street weed.
Frustrating, but it wasn't a total waste in the end.

I ain't giving up that's one bloody thing for sure. Il keep trying until I get this right. Think next run il go back to Autos. Have some nice fastbuds seeds in excited to try.. Strawberry cookies, apricot.. 2 very highly recommended strains. Might try coco next with Athena or dutch pro nutrients. I've got everything bar the coco and nutrients, so it's not a big start up cost. I'm x
Defo getting a incest screen for my bedroom as well.

Have u got a grow going at the moment gee? If so can u gimme a link plz so I can come in and grab a seat.