In trouble - Please help me

Dank1231

Active Member
I am on my second grow which makes me a newbie...I planted two bagseeds from different batches and now watch as they are flowering nicely. The problem that is bugging me is that one of the plants is forming "The Claw" but has no yellowish tint. The second plant is just about perfect. I use the same amount of nutrients on both plants same amount of light, soil, and even pots. Why is only one plant forming this problem. I use pH perfect bloom, grow, and micro 8ml for every gallon. I use (5) total cfl bulbs....(4) 2700k and (1) 4700k. 12/12 dark to light...lots of pistils growing ow and I just want the highest yield. Can someone please steer me in the right direction .....could it be over watered? And if so, why does it only affect one since they both get same amount....is it too much nutrients? If so could I start giving them straight water?:thanks:
IMG_20160303_213414.jpg
IMG_20160303_213421.jpg
IMG_20160302_142310.jpg
IMG_20160303_214553.jpg
 
Hello Dank welcome! What are the temps/rh in your flower room? At first glance it appears to be a couple of things.
1. Heat stress- clawing (I don't see a fan get some air blowing across those girls)
2- Over fed- leaf tips burnt
3- Under WATERED- droopyness.
You are in soil. I'm in 100% perlite and some coco.I'm still a noob also so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I'm sure you will get some soil pro's in here soon enough. I don't want to give you advice as to what to do because I have never grown in soil. A flush followed by some light nutes on the next watering/feed day and some air movement may be your cure. I know it wasn't much,but I hope this helps. Good luck
StayFrosty,
CanEyeBus
 
To begin with there is mad Nitrogen overdosing. The "good" plant is half a step behind and already starting to show some of the 3rd stage of signs. Don't feel bad nitrogen overdosing is the most common thing.

You also have some heat stress happening.

So the deal with that is it is a total environment compensation thing. They can handle hotter environments with more humidity.

I will put a chart below that is for hydro but just ignore the EC and pH lines...the rest is good for you. You want to stay inside the acceptable range for both temps and humidity. Also notice how it gets colder near bloom. That is becasue you want to try and simulate fall. Heat and intense light removes the THC and resin so near the end you want it cooler and dryer.

Boy I could go on and on but one step at a time.

First off you need to flush out the nitrogen or that may stunt your growth. In the worst case those clawed up leaves may yellow and fall off. That will really slow down things when you get to bloom becasue without Fan leaves nothing works.


So get yourself a 5 gallon bucket and pH it to like 6.3 then take the plants and put it in the bath tub and run the entire 5 gallons through it. That is a start. Then let it dry completely before watering again (that is standard...never water before they are dried out). I would give it probably minimum 2 weeks before going back to adding fertilizers and that is if you flushed it out clean correctly.

5 times the pot size is the rule of thumb but that is a lot of flushing and you have a minor problem not an infection. So maybe 2, 5 gallon buckets each.

In the future understand the direction on the bottle are for ideal growing conditions. Unless you have professional gear with a controlled setup or a master green thumb you are not going to be getting optimal photosynthesis. Fertilizers support photosynthesis but do not inherently help the plant grow. if you apply more fertilizers then the plant is using to keep up with the photosynthesis you get into these problems. If you had more leaves and better lights and great airflow and bla bla bla you could run as high as the bottle suggests. But you are not there so cut back...way back. Less is more and fixing a deficiency is way easier than and over dose. There is nothing you can do about those leaves. They will look sad forever now if you are lucky they will not yellow and fall off. If you are extremely lucky new fan leaves will scavenge from those instead of the soil but that is unlikely to happen.

In soil it is very easy to go all of veg without nutes. A professional grade soil program needs no nutes the entire grow.

:goodluck:


CCH2O-Recommendations-Graph-1024x743.jpg
 
Thank you everyone for the help you confirmed what I thought to be the problem and taught me much more in the process. Much appreciated
 
To begin with there is mad Nitrogen overdosing. The "good" plant is half a step behind and already starting to show some of the 3rd stage of signs. Don't feel bad nitrogen overdosing is the most common thing.

You also have some heat stress happening.

So the deal with that is it is a total environment compensation thing. They can handle hotter environments with more humidity.

I will put a chart below that is for hydro but just ignore the EC and pH lines...the rest is good for you. You want to stay inside the acceptable range for both temps and humidity. Also notice how it gets colder near bloom. That is becasue you want to try and simulate fall. Heat and intense light removes the THC and resin so near the end you want it cooler and dryer.

Boy I could go on and on but one step at a time.

First off you need to flush out the nitrogen or that may stunt your growth. In the worst case those clawed up leaves may yellow and fall off. That will really slow down things when you get to bloom becasue without Fan leaves nothing works.


So get yourself a 5 gallon bucket and pH it to like 6.3 then take the plants and put it in the bath tub and run the entire 5 gallons through it. That is a start. Then let it dry completely before watering again (that is standard...never water before they are dried out). I would give it probably minimum 2 weeks before going back to adding fertilizers and that is if you flushed it out clean correctly.

5 times the pot size is the rule of thumb but that is a lot of flushing and you have a minor problem not an infection. So maybe 2, 5 gallon buckets each.

In the future understand the direction on the bottle are for ideal growing conditions. Unless you have professional gear with a controlled setup or a master green thumb you are not going to be getting optimal photosynthesis. Fertilizers support photosynthesis but do not inherently help the plant grow. if you apply more fertilizers then the plant is using to keep up with the photosynthesis you get into these problems. If you had more leaves and better lights and great airflow and bla bla bla you could run as high as the bottle suggests. But you are not there so cut back...way back. Less is more and fixing a deficiency is way easier than and over dose. There is nothing you can do about those leaves. They will look sad forever now if you are lucky they will not yellow and fall off. If you are extremely lucky new fan leaves will scavenge from those instead of the soil but that is unlikely to happen.

In soil it is very easy to go all of veg without nutes. A professional grade soil program needs no nutes the entire grow.

:goodluck:


CCH2O-Recommendations-Graph-1024x743.jpg
Nice dude!! Super informative !!!!
 
I'd recommend following the above advice about flushing and installing a fan. A little desktop one should do given the wattage of light your using. Next grow use half strength nutrients. Far easier to correct deficiency as you just add more but with over fertilising you have to flush which is a pain blah blah blah.

A common mistake new growers make is that more nutrients mean bigger plants but this isn't so. Nutrients are the building blocks that the plant will use to build leaves, stems, roots and flowers. They are the Lego. The light however will provide the plant with the energy needed to start building. Nobody likes playing with Lego if they don't have the energy to build.

I use a different grow method to you so this isn't exact but under a 600w HPS lamp I'm using the same strength nutrient as you, added twice a week. This is just enough for me so I'd be tempted to half the strength your using now.
 
Back
Top Bottom