Impulsive LED purchase

Sgt Blotter

420 Member
A friend from work gave me some OG Kush and I was just sitting here getting high and browsing Ebay and Bought some LED strips/boards. I also ordered a HLG-120H-C1400B. I really wasn't thinking about buying a new light today, but It should be an improvement of my Growstar 300w UFO with the little cob in the middle. Those blurple lights are not pleasant.
Any way, I had a question for you fine people. The seller says you can run 3 of them on the same driver mentioned earlier without heatsinks. What say you? I've seen nothing about these particular strips anywhere. I have noticed the spacing of the diodes is more dense than the Quantum boards that don't use a heatsink. You guys think 30mm angle aluminum be sufficient for cooling?
Also I'm blaming the OG Kush for the impulsive buy because self responsibility is dead nowdays :)
 
I linked the Ebay listing in the OP. ssb44.jpg
 
Depends how hard you run your boards. With the B version driver you have a built in dimmer. When the board are run at the tested volts and amperage you tend to not need a heatsink. When you edge closer to 75% its advisable. Either way using the U channel aluminum or L aluminum, provides a solid surface to use when hanging your lights. PCBs tend to bend a bit.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I found some cheap U channel on Ebay that should be perfect. I'm getting excited about this now. I may put away my pop rivet gun and braze it. Naw. I'm lazy and don't have anyone to impress :)
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I found some cheap U channel on Ebay that should be perfect. I'm getting excited about this now. I may put away my pop rivet gun and braze it. Naw. I'm lazy and don't have anyone to impress :)
Do it up! There's nothing like stepping back when you finish one of these builds and taking in all the its beauty.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I think I found some cheap U channel on Ebay that should be perfect. I'm getting excited about this now. I may put away my pop rivet gun and braze it. Naw. I'm lazy and don't have anyone to impress :)

It's not hard to do, but preparation is key.
 
The only thing I'm concerned with is the current. Your lights say 700 to 900 mA which is .7 to .9 amps. And it says one row of the 2 rows takes that amount of current. So 2 rows would take 1.4 to 1.8 amps. But your driver will only supply a maximum of 1.4 amps.
 
The only thing I'm concerned with is the current. Your lights say 700 to 900 mA which is .7 to .9 amps. And it says one row of the 2 rows takes that amount of current. So 2 rows would take 1.4 to 1.8 amps. But your driver will only supply a maximum of 1.4 amps.
That was my first concern, but the ad claims 1400mA is enough. Other options are the HLG-120H=24, or HLG-240H-C1750B. I prefer the HLG-240H-C1750B. It will handle from three to six of these strips in series (71-143V).
 
Gosh, you guys got me nervous now. I ordered that driver on the sellers recommendation and since he wasn't selling any I took it for good advice.
 
If you put the proper DC amp meter in series with a DC power supply. You should be able see what current is being used at the maximum voltage of the LEDS. Or whatever voltage you choose to use. I'm not an expert on matching drivers though.

My COB's run at only half power (voltage) when the drivers potentiometer is turned up all the way. This is done for maximum efficiency.
 
I was only expecting 120w from the driver. I didn't know it was rated for 150. If i get close to that I'll be happy. My cabinet is 24x18 so i should get plenty of light above 100w.
 
I was only expecting 120w from the driver. I didn't know it was rated for 150. If i get close to that I'll be happy. My cabinet is 24x18 so i should get plenty of light above 100w.

90 or more is great!
 
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