Icemud's How To Make Feminized Seeds Using Colloidal Silver

Icemud

Icemud

Well-Known Member
Nug of the Month
July 2012 2 Member of the Month
June 2014
Hey Everyone!!!!

I'm back with another exciting grow, and on this journal I will be going through the process I use to create feminized seeds. I have done this only 1x before but had 100% success so I figured I would create a new journal that shows my process so all of you can follow along as I take Ogiesel and cross it with itself, as well as crossing it with 11 other strains.

Please feel free to ask questions.

Here are the grow journal details and specs:



What strain is it?

I have 2 clones of Ogiesel (SFV OG x Chemdawg x Mass Super Skunk), one of the clones will be sprayed with colloidal silver and forced to produce pollen, the other will be kept female and pollenated to make feminized ogiesel seeds.

All of the following strains will be crossed using the Ogiesel Pollen
Black Diamond OG lineage: Blackberry kush x Diamond OG (supposedly its a indica dominant offspring of OG Kush, 70% indica)


Tangie Lineage: California Orange (Cali O) x [Skunk #1 x Unknown] Sativa Dominiant
***I will be running my 2 favorite phentypes from my pheno hunt a few grows back, pheno 5 and 3

Harlequin Lineage: Columbian Gold 70s x Thailand x Swizerland x Nepal

Black Cherry Soda: (nobody really knows the exact lineage of this strain as far as I know, but I was hinted towards it being possibly Airborne G13 X Ortega x C99 x Blackberry x Cherry AK-47 — 20% Indica/80% Sativa")

Grand Daddy Purple (kens): Purple Urkle x Big Bud (commonly known as, however Kens description of the lineage is different.

Candyland (kens): Bay Platinum Cookies x GDP

Mendo Grape Kush: Mendo Purps x O.G. Kush x Grapefruit

Trainwreck: Mexican (Sativa), Thai (Sativa), Afghani (Indica)

Gorilla Glue #4: Sour Dubb x Chem Sis x Chocolate Diesel

Race Fuel OG: High Octane OG x Face Off OG (BX)



Is it in Veg or Flower stage?
Currently this grow is in early veg. I am still awaiting my black diamond og cutting to root and be added to the tent. All others are rooted and potted in 3 gallon plastic pots.


If in Veg... For how long?
I don't count the veg days but I would estimate about 15 days.


Indoor or outdoor?
Indoors.


Grow Area Description and equipment
Each grow tent is a Hydrohut silver edition 2x4' tent. Actual measurements are larger and each tent measures approx 2.5'x5'x7'. Each tent is equipped with a large carbon filter (Can-filter), 6" fan on a manual variable speed controller. Intake air is sucked into the tent by the negative pressure and let in the lower portion of the tent on each side. Also the flowering tent is equipped with 2 circulation fans...one on an intake hose at ground level, and the other on the roof of the tent blowing downwards. The lights are by Budmaster and I am running 1x GOD 8 and 1x GOD 4 LED grow light, each on 1/2 power for most of veg.


Here are the videos showing the 2 Budmaster Lights I am using in full detail:






Is it aircooled?
The lights are cooled by individual fans to disperse the heat given off by the lights. A pin style heat sink is used on each module. The case has plenty of holes and openings for ventilation.

The tent is cooled by a 6" hydrofarm fan hooked to a large carbon scrubber mounted at the top of my grow tent.


Soil or Hydro?
Soil.... recycled and reused soil. Soil is approximately 2-3 years old, and it is re-amended each cycle after being dumped into a large bin. All of my leaves are composted back into the soil.


If soil... what is in your mix?
The basic ingredients/additives are below


The Base Soil Mix:

ProMix HP
Worm Castings
Volcanic Pumice
Alaskan Forest Humus

The Amendments:
Azomite (trace minerals and micronutrients)
Calcium Carbonate Powder 97%
Soft Rock Phosphate (Collidal Clay with high phosphorus and CEC value)
Gypsum (Calcium Sulfate)
Crab Shell Meal 2-3-0 23% calcium(also a P source and source of chitin a hormone/growth regulator)
Fish Bone meal. (3-18-0) 24% Calcium
Lava Sand (adds trace minerals and supposedly adds paramagnetic value to the soil)
Kelp Meal (also has growth hormones and PGR's, plus trace minerals)
Alfalfa Meal. (2-0-3) (contains Trichontinol which aids in plant growth and health)
Powdered Humic Acid (Adds Carbons to the soil as well as trace minerals and aids in chelation of minerals)
Humboldt Myco's Maximum (Beneficial Bacteria and Mycorrizae Fungus)
Epsom Salts (Magnesium Sulfate)
Greensand (0-0-3) (Trace Minerals)
Dry Molasses (1-0-3) (Energy for the Microbes)


If soil... What size pot?
For this grow I will be keeping the plants in 3 gallon round pots for the entire grow, which means I will have to water frequently and heavily bottle feed.

Temp of Room/cab?
usually my ambient temps stay between 75F-85F (during the current summer months the upper portion of the tent can reach 93F while the canopy stays roughly 85F.

RH of Room/cab?
my RH typically stays right around 50% but sometimes (rarely) the winds come off the desert and dry the RH down to 10% or less. Usually in the winter months of October, November, December and January we see a lot of offshore breezes and low humidity.

PH of media or res?
I don't check PH of the soil, and usually don't check the feedings either, but sometimes I will verify its around 6-6.5.

Any Pests ?
No pests at all :)

I do use a few preventative measures to make sure it stays this way..
I grow high brix, so typically pests don't go for high brix plants.
I spray in veg with spinosad which pretty much prevents any pests from wanting to breed
I use yucca extract in soil and foliar sprays which also seems to be a great pest deterrent.


How often are you watering?
This depends on the portion of the cycle I am in, but typically I water about 1x per week in early veg, in late veg about 1x every 3-4 days, In early flowering about 1x every 3-4 days, late flowering about 1x per 5-6 days.


Type and strength of ferts used?
All nutrients and pest products used are 100% certified OMRI organic with the exception of my silicone additives (armor SI and bulletproof SI)

My main nutrients (bottled): (all organic/natural)
Earthjuice: Grow, Bloom, Meta K, Microblast, Catalyst
Humboldt nutrients: bloom, equilibrium, humic acid, deuce deuce
Thrive alive B1 organic
Terpenator (potassium in mid/late flowering)
Yucca Extract



Other nutrients on hand include and may be used:
occasional additive:
Advanced Nutrients: carboload, organic b, fulvic acid
General Organics: hydrolyzed squid, florablend tea,
Bonide: liquid fish 2-4-0...love this stuff!
Armor SI (potassium silicate) (non organic)
Bulletproof SI (silicone dioxide) (non organic)



I hope you all can join along, have fun, learn and enjoy this seed project as we create tons of new strains and have fun with growing!

Just a reminder that this is a sponsored Budmaster Journal, so I will not discuss other LED brands here :)


Enjoy everyone!!!
 
So as this journal gets started I will begin to explain the process of making seeds and this weekend I will give a brief overview of the process. But for now, here is what is currently going on in the garden.


So right now, I have clones of all the strains mentioned above in soil and waiting for them to grow to about 18-24" tall. Since the purpose of this grow is to make seeds, and not for yield, I don't really need to veg the plants long, just long enough for them to get some good thick stems to support the buds.

I am still waiting for my black diamond OG to root, as the cuttings are right now in a humidity dome. Should be any day now that they root and will get transplanted... and that is where the fun beginss :)


Right now I am giving the plants a feeding about 1x per week, as they are young and are not to a point they are sucking up huge volumes of water and I really want the roots to get big :)

Here are the current photos of the plants, some have been in soil for about 2 to 3 weeks and some are put into soil just as of a few days ago :)

Well not much else right now to report on, so here are some pics... I will explain the creating female seed process this weekend when I get more time :)

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Gazoo said:
Great I have been wanting to learn this so I'm in
Click to expand...

Love your name and Icon!!! I was just thinking about that character the other day for some reason... and how he used to call Fred "Dumdum" lol.

Glad to have you here! I will give more of a description this weekend about the process and how I do it :) thanks for joining in!
 
Ok Here is the process that I have used successfully to make seeds:



Making seeds:


What you will need:
colloidal silver around 50ppm (you can make it or buy it) (I chose to buy mine) (Also referred to as CS)
a female cannabis plant that will be used to make pollen and will grow male parts (Called REVERSING)
a female cannabis plant/plants that you will be pollenating with the female pollen (plants that will grow seeds)
A grow area, away from other flowering plants as pollen spreads very easily.
A small dark blue/brown glass fine misting bottle. (you want to use dark because light degrades colloidal silver)

Bio-Silver-Ultra-Colloidal-Silver-50-ppm-8-oz-0.jpg
bottle_mster.jpg





The steps:

1
First and foremost, you want to veg all of your cannabis plants to the size of choice. I usually tend to veg mine until they reach about 18"-24", and usually I prefer to top them 1-2x to get more main tops that will generate seeds. This includes the plant you will be using to create male pollen, as well as all the female plants.

2
Once your plants are at a desired height and you are ready to start flowering set your light timers to 12/12.

3
On the very first day of flowering, you are going fill up your small sprayer bottle with colloidal silver 50ppm. Take the plant that you will be converting to make pollen (this is called reversing) and remove the plant away from your other plants. Spray the entire plant, both top sides and bottoms of leaves, stems and all with colloidal silver.

****ONLY spray the plant that you want to "reverse" and take extreme care NOT to spray the plants that will be receiving pollen (the females)

******* especially take care to MAKE SURE NOT TO SPRAY ANY PLANTS YOU PLAN ON SMOKING WITH COLLOIDAL SILVER. (I have not found the exact reason why, however, every source I researched said to make sure you don't smoke any plants sprayed with CS).

4
Place the plant you sprayed with colloidal silver, back into your grow area with the other plants you will be pollenating. (Make sure to do this ONLY if you want all the other plants in your grow area to get pollenated. Some people even keep the plant they will be "reversing" in another area, far away from any female plants. Pollen travels and last thing you want to do is get it on plants not intended for getting seeds.


5
For the entire first week of flowering (12/12) you want to spray your "reversed" plant 2x, generally I do this 1 time in the mornings and 1x before lights out. Again, make sure to ONLY spray the plant with CS that you plan to reverse, and do this away from your other plants.


6
For the 2nd week you will continue to spray the plant you are "reversing" with CS, but you only need to now apply the CS 1x per day. Make sure to coat the entire plant, both sides of leaves, nodes, and all green plant material including stems. ***ONLY spray the plant you are "reversing" and be very very careful not to get any on your other plants, especially if you plan on smoking them. YOU DO NOT WANT to smoke any plants sprayed with CS.




7
Around the 2nd to 3rd week you will see all of your other NON sprayed plants start to flower as they normally do. The plant that you have been spraying with CS, may start to develop female flowers, but this is ok, as they will quickly start to convert to male pollen sacks. The pollen sacks look like clusters of oval football shaped pods and you will slowly start to see many many pods form, usually where the flowers would form. AT this point its a good idea to turn off any circulation fans in your grow area as even a slight breeze will knock loose pollen all over. Its much easier to control it before it forms, then to worry about cleanup later.





8
Once you see no more female flowers (white pistils) and see large clusters of pollen sacks on the plant you are reversing, you can stop spraying colloidal silver (CS).

It should look like this:
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9 Around week 3-4 of flowering, you will notice the pollen sacs beginning to open up and this is when you will start to see a fine yellow powder starting to fall out of the pollen sacks, this is generally noticeable on the leaves below the pollen sacks as sometimes it will fall on the leaf and collect. This is Active pollen, and will pollinate any female plants in the area so if you have other plants around in flowering, that you DO NOT want to make seeds, be very very careful with the pollen.

**again a word of caution... do not have your "reversed" plant that is producing pollen anywhere near plants that you DO NOT want to create seeds... IT WILL GET ON THEM.

10
Spreading the pollen:
Now this step there are many ways to spread the pollen to the flowering female plants that you want to produce seeds. Since I do all of the above inside of 1 grow tent, I don't mind if pollen spreads however I still make sure to have all of my circulation fans off, and handle the "reversed" pollen plant very carefully, as even a slight shake or bump will create a cloud of pollen.

Now my personal process is to cut off one of the clusters of pollen sacks from the "reversed plant". Very carefully making sure not to bang it around while cutting it off, I remove it. Then I take this cluster of pollen sacks and slowly move plant to plant (Females flowering) and rub the pollen sacks on each flower of the female plants that I want to seed. Sometimes i will give the pollen sacks a little flick in order to help knock pollen from the sacks, onto the female flowers.

Now many people also at this point will collect the pollen in a sandwhich bag, or some even will wrap the entire "reversed" plant into a black garbage bag to prevent pollen from spreading where they don't want it. Some people will just collect the pollen inside a sandwich bag and use a paintbrush to spread the pollen onto the female flowers. All of these ways will work, as long as somehow the pollen gets onto the female flowers.


11
Within the next day or 2 after you have spread the pollen from the "reversed" plant onto the female plants/flowers, you will know if they received the pollen because all the white hairs (pistils) will turn orange/brown. Make sure to look at each flower set on each plant to see if they have orange hairs/pistils, or if they are still all white. If the flower pistils/hairs have not changed orange, and are still white you will want to go back to step 10 and repeat this. At this point you should not be spraying any colloidal silver.

Your Female plant buds should look like this, once they have received pollen, notice the amber hairs early in flowering.
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12
Once you have finished pollenating all the female plants, and have seen the pistils change from white to orange, you are done with the "reversed" plant and you can carefully discard of it. Again, this pollen will spread very very easily so its best to move very slowly avoiding any bumps, wind or shaking as this will make clouds of pollen very easily, and you may want to wrap the whole plant in a garbage back, tighten the opening around the stem and cut the stalk at the soil level, which should contain any loose pollen. You can decide whether to keep some pollen for future use by collecting it in a small baggie, or you can just get rid of it all together if you don't want to keep it. I haven't tested the methods of storage yet, but a cool dry and dark place from what I read is the best to store pollen.


13
If you happen to make a mistake with your "reversed" plant, and get pollen all over, you can use water to deactivate the pollen. I usually will wait a few days after I have pollenated my plants, the pistils have turned orange and then I will spray the entire tent down, including the walls, floor, plants and soil with just plain water to make sure any loose pollen is deactivated.


14
Now the last part of the process is the waiting period. After all the female plants are pollenated, the "reversed" plant has been removed, all you have to do now is treat your plants with love, just as you would if you were flowering them normally and make sure they stay healthy. As the buds form, you will start to notice that within the buds, the calyx's (place where the hairs attach to the buds, looks like a teardrop shape) will start to swell. This is your seeds forming.

Notice on these photos, you can see the swollen calyx's with the seeds forming inside.
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15
When to harvest... If you have so far followed this process to a T, then everything should work as planned, buds will form, thicken up, mature and you will notice seeds forming in the buds, as the calyx's swell. By now you should be nearing the end of flowering, but you want to make sure that you get those nice brown, tiger stripe seeds. Wait until you start to see the swelling calyx's which contain the seeds actually start to split showing the hard seed coat, which at this point usally will be an offwhite color. Within the next week to 2 weeks at this point you will seed the seeds go from a green/offwhite color to a light brown and then they will turn to a darker brown with black lines.. These are the tiger stripes! When you start to see most of your seeds turn this darker brown color, your plant is ready to harvest. You may even want to pull a few of these seeds/calyx's off, to check them to make sure the seeds are done, which will be all dark brown with black stripes (usually) some strains produce seeds that might not be dark brown but more of a tan, and I've even had some seeds not produce stripes, but its uncommon.

Notice on these photos how the calyx's have split and the seeds are showing through the splits, and most are a darker brown. This is when they are about ready.
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16
How to harvest and gather seeds:

You treat your seeded plants/buds the same as you would harvesting a normal crop. Cut each plant from the soil, hang it for your preferred dry time.. Usually I go for 7-10 days until the buds are fully dry. I generally don't plan on smoking any of the plant material afterwords so personally I don't cure it or anything as I pretty much grind up everything with my fingers to remove the seeds.

How I personally remove the seeds:
Once your plants are dry, buds are dry I usually will take a flat surface with a lip on it, like a mirror or a picture frame and I will lay it flat, but on a slight 10-15 degree tilt. I use this as my work surface. I remove all the dead fan leaves, and most of the leaves I can just pull off, and put this in my compost pile. Then once I have just buds left, I remove 1 bud at a time, roll it between my fingers pulverizing the bud. The seeds at this point will drop out, and most of them will roll down the angled flat surface/mirror and get caught in the "lip" of the surface you are using, where the grinded/pulverized plant material will just fall down directly below my fingers. After a full bud is ground up and in a pile of grinded green, I sift through it with my fingers removing any other seeds that I find that are nice and mature. These get bagged up, labeled and stored for future use. All the immatture seeds, and ground up buds get placed in separate ziplocks and put in my freezer until I am ready to use them for edibles.

17

Seed storage: Now this is something that I have only researched but not tried yet, so take this part with a grain of salt and you may want to do your own research on this part (storing seeds). The rest of the instructions if followed should work perfectly as they worked for me with 100% success.

If you plan on using your newly created seeds right away or in a short amount of time, then you don't need to really store your seeds in any specific way, but its best to keep them cool, dry and out of direct light. If you do plan on storing your seeds for long term, then I have read the best way to do this is to store them with less than 10% oxygen. So for this, if you have a food sealer, or canning jars with vaccum pump then you want to suck out all the air out of the food sealer bag/jar which will remove most of the oxygen. This helps the seeds stay fresh and active because water and oxygen are what allow the seeds to want to sprout, so if you remove both water and oxygen, then they will stay fresh for long storage. You also will want to keep them cool, and in a dark place, like a refrigerator, basement or cool closet.

Well that is the process, and if done right.. you will end up with this::: (seeds from my last project)

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I hope you all follow along with my 2nd feminized seed project, with all new strains, and we are just starting the plants in early veg, so you will see the entire process.

I will update for the first few weeks only about 1x per week until the plants get larger and we are ready to start with the actual process described above. At that point I will do each part step by step so you can see it in action. I also do plan on making a video of each step so that you can see the process in full, in video form... but obviously that will take place while we do this 2nd round, so the video will not be finished until this grow is finished...


If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I am not a pro breeder by any means, and this will only be my 2nd time doing it. I wanted to share my process that worked 100% the 1st time I did it... so all of us can make seeds.

I also am starting to research more and more on breeding, but I am still a Noob at it, so I will try my best to answer questions in regards to breeding, but there are many other people here at 420 magazine who are much more experienced than I am so hopefully we will get some of them in here to follow along as well, and help with the questions that I can't answer :)
 
Icemud said:
I hope you all follow along with my 2nd feminized seed project, with all new strains, and we are just starting the plants in early veg, so you will see the entire process.

I will update for the first few weeks only about 1x per week until the plants get larger and we are ready to start with the actual process described above. At that point I will do each part step by step so you can see it in action. I also do plan on making a video of each step so that you can see the process in full, in video form... but obviously that will take place while we do this 2nd round, so the video will not be finished until this grow is finished...


If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I am not a pro breeder by any means, and this will only be my 2nd time doing it. I wanted to share my process that worked 100% the 1st time I did it... so all of us can make seeds.

I also am starting to research more and more on breeding, but I am still a Noob at it, so I will try my best to answer questions in regards to breeding, but there are many other people here at 420 magazine who are much more experienced than I am so hopefully we will get some of them in here to follow along as well, and help with the questions that I can't answer :)
Click to expand...
Awesome thanks for all the lovely info. So I want to take a feminized photoperiod strain pollen and pollinate an feminized autoflower. The seeds then would be a mixture of photos and autos or all of one or the other. Just wondering any info would be great.

Wubbba Lubbba Dub Dub
 
Thanks for this Icemud! I just purchased a 10 pack of reg seeds Sex bud x No proof purp (krunk kreationz) but don't have space to flower out multiple plants while waiting for sex for show 2x2 grow area. This will be perfect. Do you have a ballpark range of how many seeds you get per plant? I think if I pollinate just one, Ill be good on seeds for quite a while
 
Rick Sanchez said:
Awesome thanks for all the lovely info. So I want to take a feminized photoperiod strain pollen and pollinate an feminized autoflower. The seeds then would be a mixture of photos and autos or all of one or the other. Just wondering any info would be great.

Wubbba Lubbba Dub Dub
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You are welcome for the info :)

sounds like a fun project! Yea I still have to figure out the details of using punnett squares to predict phenotypes, as its been decades since HS biology class, but hopefully over the coming months we will be able to get some details in this journal about it :)
 
mouser said:
Thanks for the tutorial. I am interested in this as a way to help curb my seed addiction :) Does CS or Silver Thiosulfate work better?

:peacetwo:
Click to expand...

Great question, and you are welcome for the tutorial. I honestly don't have an answer for you in regards to if CS is better. I know that I've read people using both, and seed success stories with each, but not sure which is better or what differs between them.
 
Gaffle said:
Oh yeah, we got a group breeding course going now eh? Right on! Follow'd.
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Haha! Hey Gaffle, thanks for joining! Definitely excited about not only making feminized seeds of my favorite keeper genetics, but really excited to be crossing some of my favorites in hopes of creatings something new and exciting too :)
 
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