I may have a small issue with pH - Any opinion would be grand

Mountainman80

Mountainman80

Well-Known Member
I'm seeing a pale look to her leaves I checkd the pH it was over 7.0 so I made w gallon water pH tested 6.0 haven't used it yet she don't need any water today any opions would be helpful this is my fisrt indoor photo period all my others were auto flowers

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Mountainman80 said:
I'm seeing a pale look to her leaves I checkd the pH it was over 7.0 so I made w gallon water pH tested 6.0 haven't used it yet she don't need any water today any opions would be helpful this is my fisrt indoor photo period all my others were auto flowers

20220829_123717.jpg
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Hi @Mountainman80 , you tipped after 2 weeks yeah ? Maybe she’s a bit stressed, or maybe a bit wet, I’m sure others will know :thumb:
 
Please be aware that most commercial soils are pH adjusted, on purpose, to the high end of the 6.2-6.8 pH range. This is done VERY deliberately, so that you are able to adjust your fluids to the lower end of the range, usually 6.3pH, and then enjoy the benefits of strong mobility of your nutrients as the pH of your system drifts through the entire usable range, toward the base pH of the soil. People are always discussing what is the correct pH to adjust your fluids to, 6.3, 6.5 or even higher.... I submit that your goal is not one single number. Proper pH is always expressed as a range. There is reason for that. Use the entire range. Adjust your fluids, NOT the soil.
 
Phytoplankton said:
Couple quick questions. What’s your grow media? When you say you tested the ph, was it of the water or the soil? What nutrients are you using, how often are you feeding/watering?
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I test the soil and my water I use I'm seeing merical grow potting mix and coco core I mixd it 70%potting mix yo 30%,/coco core .only ph meter I have has probs its w three way tester moister ,light,pH readings. I'm just. Seeing her color isn't as green as she should be little light on color
Kaldean said:
Hi @Mountainman80 , you tipped after 2 weeks yeah ? Maybe she’s a bit stressed, or maybe a bit wet, I’m sure others will know :thumb:
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It is possible she could be under little stress I fead her today I'm keeping the light on 24./7 until she recovers then switching to 18/6
 
Emilya Green said:
Please be aware that most commercial soils are pH adjusted, on purpose, to the high end of the 6.2-6.8 pH range. This is done VERY deliberately, so that you are able to adjust your fluids to the lower end of the range, usually 6.3pH, and then enjoy the benefits of strong mobility of your nutrients as the pH of your system drifts through the entire usable range, toward the base pH of the soil. People are always discussing what is the correct pH to adjust your fluids to, 6.3, 6.5 or even higher.... I submit that your goal is not one single number. Proper pH is always expressed as a range. There is reason for that. Use the entire range. Adjust your fluids, NOT the soil.
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That's exactly what I did I.made a gallon of water up pH is at 6.0 she doesn't need any water right now but she drys out some.will add the pH water to her thank you for pointing the pH adjustment out glad you did because my next step was to ajuat the soil.
 
Emilya Green said:
Please be aware that most commercial soils are pH adjusted, on purpose, to the high end of the 6.2-6.8 pH range. This is done VERY deliberately, so that you are able to adjust your fluids to the lower end of the range, usually 6.3pH, and then enjoy the benefits of strong mobility of your nutrients as the pH of your system drifts through the entire usable range, toward the base pH of the soil. People are always discussing what is the correct pH to adjust your fluids to, 6.3, 6.5 or even higher.... I submit that your goal is not one single number. Proper pH is always expressed as a range. There is reason for that. Use the entire range. Adjust your fluids, NOT the soil.
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I checked the pH of the soil.it was over 7 soil.was still moist from last watering I gave her I do have a jug ready the pH of it is 6.0 I hope it will.balence out things 🤞
 
Are you feeding her? I’m not a fan of Miracle Grow soil, if you got the stuff with the feed already in it, you’re kinda at the mercy of the soil, but you still may need to feed. Coco has no nutrients at all in it. Chasing soil ph is a recipe for frustration, those Probe type ph meters are sketchy at best. Certainly you can float the ph between about 6 and 6.8. Add your cal mag, mix. wait 15 minutes, add nutes, mix, wait 15 minutes and then ph the solution.
 
Mountainman80 said:
I checked the pH of the soil.it was over 7 soil.was still moist from last watering I gave her I do have a jug ready the pH of it is 6.0 I hope it will.balence out things 🤞
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6.3 pH is mathematically the perfect pH. At that exact point in the range, more nutrients are more mobile than at any other pH. Adjust the pH of every incoming fluid to this number. It will drift up because of the buffers in the soil toward 6.8 or so, where the soil pH is set. There should be no fear of pH 7 soil... 7 is neutral. You have no need to make ANY attempt to adjust your soil's pH by coming in at a much lower number so as to drive down the pH of the soil. Simply use your soil as the tool it was designed to be... a quick simple way to drift your pH between 2 ends of the scale. There is no balancing to this. What is being balanced? Carefully, deliberately and scientifically "adjust" your pH to the number that keeps your nutes mobile for the longest period of time.

There is a school of thought out there who believe that you should instead adjust your soil, and not care what the pH is of your incoming fluids. Certainly, you can throw acids at your soil and wreck the buffers that were put in there to allow you to drift your pH along the entire range. You can make your soil "flat" at 6.5 if you want, and always be in the range and not drift at all. All that work for the scientists to create your soil, and this crowd wants you to wreck it. This takes lots of work actually to do this, and requires several slurry tests of your soil to see where you are at, when it is a whole lot easier just to pH adjust your fluids to 6.3 pH, as gardeners have been successfully doing for decades.
 
Mountainman80 said:
I test the soil and my water I use I'm seeing merical grow potting mix and coco core I mixd it 70%potting mix yo 30%,/coco core .only ph meter I have has probs its w three way tester moister ,light,pH readings. I'm just. Seeing her color isn't as green as she should be little light on color
It is possible she could be under little stress I fead her today I'm keeping the light on 24./7 until she recovers then switching to 18/6
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Just reading some of the replies from @Phytoplankton and @Emilya Green , it sounds like it’s not a ph problem could it be overwatering or nutes ? I did lose 2 seedlings giving them nutes to early ?
 
Kaldean said:
Just reading some of the replies from @Phytoplankton and @Emilya Green , it sounds like it’s not a ph problem could it be overwatering or nutes ? I did lose 2 seedlings giving them nutes to early ?
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yes, I think the problem is elsewhere and at this point I want to ask some more questions and request a more in focus shot of the problem plant. Are you using a wet/dry cycle, and by that I mean, are you forcing the plant to use all of the water in the container between waterings? Are you using the lift test or the finger in the top method to determine when it is time to water? I fertilize as early as possible, and every nutrient program has a chart showing you the proper feed rate for seedlings... most go on a weekly basis. I don't think it is the nutes. Overwatering by watering too often is very often the problem.
 
Phytoplankton said:
Are you feeding her? I’m not a fan of Miracle Grow soil, if you got the stuff with the feed already in it, you’re kinda at the mercy of the soil, but you still may need to feed. Coco has no nutrients at all in it. Chasing soil ph is a recipe for frustration, those Probe type ph meters are sketchy at best. Certainly you can float the ph between about 6 and 6.8. Add your cal mag, mix. wait 15 minutes, add nutes, mix, wait 15 minutes and then ph the solution.
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Yea I'm feeding her flora grow and micronutes I pH the water today's got it from 7.0,to.6.0 she is bit wet need let her dry out some.before I can water her with pH water she should pull through she isn't to bad is showing signs I figured adress the problem beffor it's to.late
 
You’ve got a plan, that’s good! Watering that soil may be a little tricky, and may take some trial and error. The reason I say that is, MG mix is about 55-65% Canadian moss, with compost and coco, so with the coco you added it’s close to a hydro grow. Not over or under watering/feeding will be key.
 
Phytoplankton said:
You’ve got a plan, that’s good! Watering that soil may be a little tricky, and make take some trial and error. The reason I say that is, MG mix is about 55-65% Canadian moss, with compost and coco, so with the coco you added it’s close to a hydro grow. Not over or under watering/feeding will be key.
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I didn't want to burn her any with merical grow hsveing nutes already in it. then me feeding her on top of that could burn her I have be carful with that as well .ur right about the mix it is tho I'm almost soiless I didn't realize that its new ballgame.like that I'm sure when may need transplanting later on may do that befor flower I'm not sure yet have to wait see were she's at in the next 70 days or so
 
As I understand MG mix it has a quick release nitrogen fertilizer that works for a couple, three weeks, then there’s slow release NPK that lasts for a few months. But, you have mixed in, basically, 30% inert material so the fert in the soil isn’t as strong. At some point in veg you may need to supplement a little nitrogen and then later some flowering nutes (PK). Start at 1/4 or half the recommended amount and see how she reacts when the time comes. However, if she’s growing well, then just let her go!
 
Phytoplankton said:
As I understand MG mix it has a quick release nitrogen fertilizer that works for a couple, three weeks, then there’s slow release NPK that lasts for a few months. But, you have mixed in, basically, 30% inert material so the fert in the soil isn’t as strong. At some point in veg you may need to supplement a little nitrogen and then later some flowering nutes (PK). Start at 1/4 or half the recommended amount and see how she reacts when the time comes. However, if she’s growing well, then just let her go!
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I shouldn't be adding extra to the water don't no why I did gotta be outta habit with auto flowers habeinh to feed them each time now my fem has tiny bit nuts burn on her tips but its fixabable
 
Emilya Green said:
yes, I think the problem is elsewhere and at this point I want to ask some more questions and request a more in focus shot of the problem plant. Are you using a wet/dry cycle, and by that I mean, are you forcing the plant to use all of the water in the container between waterings? Are you using the lift test or the finger in the top method to determine when it is time to water? I fertilize as early as possible, and every nutrient program has a chart showing you the proper feed rate for seedlings... most go on a weekly basis. I don't think it is the nutes. Overwatering by watering too often is very often the problem.
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I lift my pot.every morning when I rotate her if she feels light I water her this time.I'm waiting to water her until she drys out some. Csn check with moister meter first
 
Mountainman80 said:
I lift my pot.every morning when I rotate her if she feels light I water her this time.I'm waiting to water her until she drys out some. Csn check with moister meter first
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Im starting to see light nute. Burn on the tips.I believe to wet to much nutes have something to do with it both in combination me trying to make her grow faster is causing her to get behind
 
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