How to make a citric acid spray for bud rot?
- Thread starter jokerlola
- Start date
greenjeans
Well-Known Member
I think it is 5 g per gallon of water - 5 g looks like about a heaping teaspoon. (I hope)
Don't forget about the soap or yuca as a surfactant, to get it to stick to the leaves & not bead up & just roll off
The message in another thread has the recipe that I have been using. Have to give a 'thank you' to @InTheShed for posting that msg earlier in the year.
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/thrips.512473/page-5#post-5519939
The Citric Acid that I found in a local supermarket is not a powder. It is finely ground crystals. I recommend that any new batch of Citric Acid be weighed out since the volume of 1 and 1/4 teaspoon could weigh differently depending on how finely ground it is. Keep the amount in the measuring spoon as level as possible to maintain a consistent method.
If the Bud Rot is already showing then the rotted area should be removed before spraying. If it was me I would then spray the entire plant even the remaining buds. The citric acid would create a hostile environment that reduces the possibility of any surviving mold or mildew from being able to start up again.
https://www.420magazine.com/community/threads/thrips.512473/page-5#post-5519939
5 grams of Citric Acid to 500 ml of water. The 500 ml comes out to close to a pint of water. Use a decent scale that can weigh in metric. I weighed out the Citric Acid by placing 1/4 teaspoons at a time on the scale and after putting 5 of the 1/4 teaspoons on the scale it came out to 5 grams. So, 1 and 1/4 teaspoons.
The Citric Acid that I found in a local supermarket is not a powder. It is finely ground crystals. I recommend that any new batch of Citric Acid be weighed out since the volume of 1 and 1/4 teaspoon could weigh differently depending on how finely ground it is. Keep the amount in the measuring spoon as level as possible to maintain a consistent method.
If the Bud Rot is already showing then the rotted area should be removed before spraying. If it was me I would then spray the entire plant even the remaining buds. The citric acid would create a hostile environment that reduces the possibility of any surviving mold or mildew from being able to start up again.
greenjeans
Well-Known Member
I found citric acid at Bulk Barn - 96 g for about $6.00
As well as unsulfered black strap at B.B. if one uses that
Thanks Wings!
For the record, the 1% recipe is for treating PM rather than bud rot. Folks using it to prevent rot or prevent it from spreading (after you cut out the rot that's already there) are using it experimentally.
Jonny5
Well-Known Member
I use the potassium bicarbonate.. it will keep it at bay for the early onset ...But You can not Eradicate BR..( at least the science is not there ) Keep a very very close eye my friend. A small amount here and there every 2-3 days..and I mean small... any more than that you need to take her down. Trim well and brake it down into singular buds , dried on a screen,, You May save it..And as we all know DO NOT SMOKE MOLDY DOPE ..!!! Very bad
Both of these can also be found in many larger markets.
The Citric Acid is used by many home canners to raise the acidic levels of certain foods that are being canned.
The unsulphured Molasses will usually be found in the section of the store with flour, sugar and baking items. It isused to flavor and supply sugars to some types of cookies, cakes and pies. It would be impossible for my wife make a true Shoofly Pie without Molasses
or to make Gingerbread Cookies for holidays without it.
True but it is a good experiment for those who like experimenting. So far I have not had 'bud rot' show up since I started using your Citric Acid mix. Last year it was about 50 to 70% chance on the outdoor plants and nothing thisyear. Much lower probability on the indoor plants but it has happened in the past.
Great info, thanks SW!
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks. I’m still trying to figure out if it even is bud rot or possible bug damage. I haven’t cut out the damage and it hasn’t spread at all. I have 9 outdoor plants and some with very big, dense colas and only this small Super Lemon Haze has the damage and it has the airiest buds of all my plants. I’m in Colorado where it’s low humidity. I’ve tried to get them under the porch for rain but have had them get wet with a couple of un forecasted light rains and morning mist but I put a fan on them asap and then the sun dried them out the next morning or right after the rain. I’ve never had bud rot in the 5 years I’ve been growing outside and for the first 3 years I never even protected them from rain or even tried to shake or dry them off if the did get wet. Even used to let the lawn sprinkler system get them wet.
- Thread starter
- #13
So it's caterpillar damage not bud rot. I was inspecting the damage and was noticing that the stems inside the dead bud material were still green and healthy looking and then found a green caterpillar (pictured below). How do I handle the bud material that is still not dead? Just dry it as you normally would? Trash it? Trash any bud that has any caterpillar damage? Or trash the whole plant? The plant is ready for harvest , so I could harvest it today
It seems to be the caterpillar crap left in the buds that brings on the rot, so you've certainly have the components all lined up. Not sure you can clean it out effectively.
Cut away any damage and carry on as usual.
- Thread starter
- #16
The
So the bud material not dead from the caterpillar, after cutting out the dead and dying material, is safe to consume? Or should I do a bud wash?
I bud wash everything anyway but washing out the caterpillar poop seems especially prudent!
- Thread starter
- #18
What is your bud wash recipe and how do you do it?
Simplest method is 3/4 cup baking soda and lemon juice each in about 4 gallons of water. Then two buckets of plain rinse water.
Plain tap water at room temps is fine for all.
Dunk and swirl without touching the sides or bottom so you don't knock off any trichomes.
Shake them out and hang them to drip dry in front of a fan for a couple of hours, and then proceed with your normal drying process.
Plain tap water at room temps is fine for all.
Dunk and swirl without touching the sides or bottom so you don't knock off any trichomes.
Shake them out and hang them to drip dry in front of a fan for a couple of hours, and then proceed with your normal drying process.
- Thread starter
- #20
Thanks so much!
