How much calcium in ground soil is too much?

Phillybonker

Phillybonker

Well-Known Member
I purchased some bio-phos that contains 12.5% Phosphorus and 33% Calcium. The recommended application from the supplier is 25- 50g per m2. The reason I purchased bio-phos is solely for the Phosphorus, I don't need any more calcium but nevertheless bio-phos contains 33% calcium.

My questions are:

#1. Would I be adding too much calcium to ground soil if I applied 50g of bio-phos (containing 16.5g of calcium) per m2?

#2. The supplier stated that bio-phos is pH neutral, but what does that even mean?, Does the supplier mean that bio-phos has a pH of 7, or does the supplier mean that bio-phos will not alter the pH in the soil?
 
Hi - you are growing in soil so the plant will only take up what it needs
Yes, pH neutral means it will not affect the soil pH dramatically, but in very low soil pH, it might raise it slightly
I think so, anyway; @Emilya Green has much more experience in soil and can probably offer better advice
 
Phillybonker said:
I purchased some bio-phos that contains 12.5% Phosphorus and 33% Calcium. The recommended application from the supplier is 25- 50g per m2. The reason I purchased bio-phos is solely for the Phosphorus, I don't need any more calcium but nevertheless bio-phos contains 33% calcium.

My questions are:

#1. Would I be adding too much calcium to ground soil if I applied 50g of bio-phos (containing 16.5g of calcium) per m2?

#2. The supplier stated that bio-phos is pH neutral, but what does that even mean?, Does the supplier mean that bio-phos has a pH of 7, or does the supplier mean that bio-phos will not alter the pH in the soil?
Click to expand...
With our heavy calcium feeding plants, you should be ok at 50g/m2, but I wouldn't go any more than that. This stuff is very powerful and too much will affect many of the other needed elements, causing lockouts. Apply cautiously and also read below for an easy way to avoid P deficiencies.

Phosphorus is hard to get into our plants due to the way this element needs to enter at the end of the roots. The best trick out there to increase the P uptake is by increasing the number of helper fungi in your soil, the Mycorrhizal fungi. I like the very strong product from our sponsor, @DYNOMYCO. These fungi work in symbiosis with the plant's root system by gathering in phosphorus and the microbes that supply this P and then passing this phosphorus to the roots. I tend to see P problems in my plants with several of the nutrient systems I have used when I don't use Dynomyco as I am transplanting and/or building my containers, but with this simple additive applied early in the grow, I never see this particular deficiency.

Regarding pH, this product does not change the soil pH in either direction.
 
Roy Growin said:
Hi - you are growing in soil so the plant will only take up what it needs
Click to expand...

That's a good point, I've read up too much into other types of growing that doesn't involve growing directly in ground soil and it's warped my thinking a little bit, I keep thinking I've got to control my nutrient inputs very, very carefully.


Roy Growin said:
Yes, pH neutral means it will not affect the soil pH dramatically, but in very low soil pH, it might raise it slightly
I think so, anyway; @Emilya Green has much more experience in soil and can probably offer better advice
Click to expand...
I prefer the pH doesn't go up too much so hopefully this is the case.
 
Emilya Green said:
With our heavy calcium feeding plants, you should be ok at 50g/m2, but I wouldn't go any more than that. This stuff is very powerful and too much will affect many of the other needed elements, causing lockouts. Apply cautiously and also read below for an easy way to avoid P deficiencies.

Phosphorus is hard to get into our plants due to the way this element needs to enter at the end of the roots. The best trick out there to increase the P uptake is by increasing the number of helper fungi in your soil, the Mycorrhizal fungi. I like the very strong product from our sponsor, @DYNOMYCO. These fungi work in symbiosis with the plant's root system by gathering in phosphorus and the microbes that supply this P and then passing this phosphorus to the roots. I tend to see P problems in my plants with several of the nutrient systems I have used when I don't use Dynomyco as I am transplanting and/or building my containers, but with this simple additive applied early in the grow, I never see this particular deficiency.

Regarding pH, this product does not change the soil pH in either direction.
Click to expand...
That's good news!! :)

I'll look into getting me some Dynomyco.

It's interesting that Phosphorus is hard to get into our plants due to having to enter at the end of the roots, that's something I didn't know.

Thanks
 
Phillybonker said:
That's good news!! :)

I'll look into getting me some Dynomyco.

It's interesting that Phosphorus is hard to get into our plants due to having to enter at the end of the roots, that's something I didn't know.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Frass will also help
 
Phillybonker said:
Like black soldier fly larvae frass?

Do you mean frass helps to get Phosphorus into the plants somehow?
Click to expand...
Yes, mix it into the myco layer at the bottom, and the back-fill soil
Mine is cricket shit, fek knows how they make bags of that lol
It is a long-term balanced source of NPK Ca Mg Fe etc
 
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