How do you use mycorrhizae with seed growing?

JJ Bones offers great advice. I would say to not worry about mycorrhizae until your first transplantation unless you are starting in the final pot size. Seedlings need not be fussed with too much. They turn into cute little teenagers on their own.

What size and type container are you starting your seeds in? What will be your progression in pot sizing if any?
 
It's just me but I would use the mycorrhizae when you go into the 5 gallon pots. Sprinkle (innoculate) the entire area of soil that you place the solo cup size root plug into. This will begin the colonization and help your roots take off into your final pots.
 
This doesn't really mean that mycorrhizae will colonize the roots. First, they need to come in direct contact with the root. Second, it takes at least 30-60 days for spores to create mycelium and there's always a chance that they won't as variations in susceptibility exist among different species of plants. There is a lot of growers who question if they are even a real benefit for annual plants such as cannabis. Unfortunately, there were no studies on weed, but check this: Ashspublications.org.

To clear one thing, I'm gonna use them this year, but if I don't verify they really help, you can practice positive visualization with the same effect, if you know what I mean :hippy:
 
And I don't question it, just say that experiences might be different for different growers and we need to verify these things.
 
This doesn't really mean that mycorrhizae will colonize the roots. First, they need to come in direct contact with the root. Second, it takes at least 30-60 days for spores to create mycelium and there's always a chance that they won't as variations in susceptibility exist among different species of plants. There is a lot of growers who question if they are even a real benefit for annual plants such as cannabis. Unfortunately, there were no studies on weed, but check this: Ashspublications.org.

To clear one thing, I'm gonna use them this year, but if I don't verify they really help, you can practice positive visualization with the same effect, if you know what I mean :hippy:

This is the key, and means that you should try to get mycos in contact with the roots as early as possible for best effect. Once the fungi colonize a root, the colony stays with that root as it grows, coating its length. So, the soil you plant the seed into should have available mycos. The granular form is meant to mix in with the soil, but you could powder some of it and sprinkle it into the coco starter. Then coat the rootball and new hole with each transplant.

It has no downside and, if your soil is healthy and alive, it has a significant upside.
 
This is the key, and means that you should try to get mycos in contact with the roots as early as possible for best effect. Once the fungi colonize a root, the colony stays with that root as it grows, coating its length.

Do the roots look any different from using mycorrhiza? I'm wondering when I harvest and inspect the roots/soil, should I be looking for something to indicate that the mycorrhiza successfully colonized my ladies roots?
 
I don't know for sure. I know that thin roots are better than thick ones, and my rootballs are nothing but a spongy mass of tiny roots, perfectly molded to the pot. I have to literally tear it apart.

Mycos essentially add function to the root. They grow tiny tendrils themselves, attached to the roots like hairs, and between them they draw more nutrition and moisture from the soil - more surface area.
 
They're supposed to look like fine cotton strands attached to the rootball if they started growing a mycelium, but I've never seen any pulling out annual plants from the soil. I'm planning to examine rootbals of all my ladies after chopping them by the end of this outdoor season just to see if there's any fungal growth visible.
 
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