Help with plant diagnosis!

Leafyleafs

420 Member
I'm new growing, but I want to make sure I do everything to help my plants thrive.

My soil consists of a coot mix from buildasoil.com with peatmoss, worm castings, and perlite. I'm watering using distilled water mixed with trace amounts of Terpinator. The two attached images are my Purple Punch clone that I've recently transferred to this mix.

The newest growths have a brownish center and are curling. There are also tan spots and general yellowing throughout. My initial thoughts were deficiencies due to pH, though my soil pH reads about 6.5 after I've watered it with the Terpinator. My friends thinks it's a nitrogen problem. Please help!
 

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was the coots mix purchased pre cooked or did you mix it up? Also be aware that the high K of the terpinator can actually lock out N, but you did say a micro dose, so lets overlook that at the moment.
Since you are using the coots mix you must be wanting to grow organically, so why are you even looking at your pH? The pH of the soil is not even a factor. Besides that, sticking a probe into the soil is not how you measure soil pH.

The damage on your plants says a lot. I also question the leaf that has been sliced at the tips and I assume that was more damage that you thought you needed to remove. What I suspect happened there and the spotting on the leaves tells me you are having a magnesium deficiency, and the ugly coloration of the new top growth really frightens me... not even sure what that is indicating, but it is bad.... very bad.

So let me hear more about the soil. Then tell me about how often you water.
 
Thank you for the reply @Emilya!

This is the exact mix I've used in the soil:

As recommended, I used 1 part Peat Moss, 1 part earthworm castings, and 1 part Aeration (Perlite) while mixing the rockdust/nutrients. I water just before sunrise and just before sunset, sometimes skipping sunset.
 
Ok well maybe that could be the issue then. I planted right after mixing the soil, about 4 days ago - because I didn't know how a mix like that even works until now. Perhaps my plant will do better after the soil develops further?
 
....and the ugly coloration of the new top growth really frightens me... not even sure what that is indicating, but it is bad.... very bad.
I do not know what it is called but, yes, it is bad if it is what I get on occasion. I always suspected it was because of a lack of roots or a root problem

I will sometimes get it on one or two of my clones and rarely have I been able to save them. The new growth comes from the tip and once it gets damaged to the point where no new leaves push through it is about over. That is what I am seeing when I look at the two photographs. One thing that Leafyleafs has going is that there are several other nodes with new growth showing and those might still be OK

The only thing I can think of is to transplant that clone out of there as soon as possible, if not sooner. Into just about any decent mild potting soil. Or, into a container with some soil from the garden. I have never tried emergency transplanting for this problem myself since I had other clones to tend to.

In the meantime put all the supersoil back together, store it and let it cook some more, maybe for a month or so. If all seems OK start to use it if needed.
 
You are also watering all wrong. Weeds need a clear wet/dry cycle, drying out all the way down to the bottom between waterings. Watering soil once a day is certain death by drowning.
And extra water can increase the microbe activity even further increasing the cooking temperature of the supersoil. Similar to how a compost pile will get hotter within a day after a heavy rain or if it is heavily watered, especially if it is still green (green as in it is still in the early stages of breaking down the organics and minerals).
 
hi i stumbled by this post and wanted to say welcome to leafyleaf. also wish you good luck with those plants. I was wondering, does cooking the soil mean mixing soil then leaving in pots for a month before transplanting? not sure I understood correctly, wondering if someone can clarify this method. Thanks!
more like 2-3 months, but yes, that is exactly what it means. You mix the soil, wet it down and let nature take its course.
 
even with fox farms soils? or is this just with the soil leafyleaf is using?
No, a regular commercial organic soil such as fox farm ocean forest, does NOT need to be "cooked" before use. It is only a supersoil that needs this initial treatment, so that the minerals that have been added can start to break down. FFOF could be used as a base soil in a project such as this and after a 3 month cooking process it would turn into what we now call, a supersoil.
 
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