Help required! 3 plants - All came out differently

T

The Arcane

New Member
Hello, first time indoors grower.

Strain - King's kush (indica)
Number of plants - 3
Growth stage - vegetative (seeds sprouted at early December)
Growing tent (Indoors) - secret jardin dark street 120 (120x120x185 cm)
Growing medium - 50% coco + 50% perlites
Watering - using auto-pot system, reservoir size 45L
Pot size - 15L
Growing light - 400W HPS inside an air cooled spudnik reflector. 18/6h light cycle
Average temperature - 20C
Nutrients - GHE according to this feed chart
ghe-florabloom.jpg

(I put about 2/3 of the recommended amount) including bio roots and diamond nectar
RH - ~50%
PH - keeping the water in the reservoir between 5.5 - 6
Pests - No

So I have 3 plants, and they all look different even though they had the same growth conditions. Why is it happening? is it normal?
Now one of the plants is starting to look really sick and I don't know why. I'm aware that the temperature is a bit cold but the other 2 plants seem to handle it pretty well.
His leaves are yellowing by the day and he is thin and sparse.

The grow tent -
DSC_077012.jpg

The short dense one -
DSC_07716.jpg

The handsome one -
DSC_07757.jpg

The sickly one -
DSC_077211.jpg

DSC_07739.jpg


The pics were taken after the dark period so they look tired :P
 
When growing from seed, you WILL get variations of phenotype, because of the way the genes are mixed up in sexual reproduction. As for signs of disease, I hope you haven't tried to fertilize them before the 2 month mark. Soil and the cotyledons have enough nutrients for the growing seedling. This, and over watering are the most common mistakes a grower makes.

1) flush the plants with clear water and don't give any more nutes until new foliage comes in green and healthy.

2) Let the plants dry out some before watering thoroughly to the point of run off. Then let dry out again. Use the weight of the pot to let you know when to water again. There is a distinct difference in weight to a wet pot than a dry pot.

After a few weeks, if your new growth is still sickly, then we can start looking at soil and pest problems.
 
AKgramma said:
When growing from seed, you WILL get variations of phenotype, because of the way the genes are mixed up in sexual reproduction. As for signs of disease, I hope you haven't tried to fertilize them before the 2 month mark. Soil and the cotyledons have enough nutrients for the growing seedling. This, and over watering are the most common mistakes a grower makes.

1) flush the plants with clear water and don't give any more nutes until new foliage comes in green and healthy.

2) Let the plants dry out some before watering thoroughly to the point of run off. Then let dry out again. Use the weight of the pot to let you know when to water again. There is a distinct difference in weight to a wet pot than a dry pot.

After a few weeks, if your new growth is still sickly, then we can start looking at soil and pest problems.
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Thnx for the reply (:

What do you mean "the 2 month mark"? to wait two months before fertilizing? maybe you meant something else?
I started with the nutes when the seedlings had about 2 set of leaves after the cotyledons.

I flushed the plants two times already, then waited like 3-4 days before implementing the auto-pot.
Can you over water with the auto-pot system? the pots got air domes at the bottom and the water in the reservoir are being oxidized as well.

The weird thing is that only 1 plant shows those severe signs of stress. I can see he is well watered so I tend to believe he gets enough nutes and water like the other 2.
 
Arcane: Sorry, missed the part about only 1 plant showing stress.

Since they are all in the same environment, the pics are very tiny, and the lighting all yellow, it is impossible to see what your sickly plant looks like. May we have a closeup under natural lighting? A lot depends on the color and physical condition of the leaves to diagnose it.
 
AKgramma said:
When growing from seed, you WILL get variations of phenotype, because of the way the genes are mixed up in sexual reproduction. As for signs of disease, I hope you haven't tried to fertilize them before the 2 month mark. Soil and the cotyledons have enough nutrients for the growing seedling. This, and over watering are the most common mistakes a grower makes.

1) flush the plants with clear water and don't give any more nutes until new foliage comes in green and healthy.

2) Let the plants dry out some before watering thoroughly to the point of run off. Then let dry out again. Use the weight of the pot to let you know when to water again. There is a distinct difference in weight to a wet pot than a dry pot.

After a few weeks, if your new growth is still sickly, then we can start looking at soil and pest problems.
Click to expand...

That's the worst advice I have ever heard. He is growing in coco/perlite not soil. Personally I would eliminate all of the needless additives and just use the basic nutrients. GH Flora Series is a good nutrient alone.
 
MickFoster said:
That's the worst advice I have ever heard. He is growing in coco/perlite not soil. Personally I would eliminate all of the needless additives and just use the basic nutrients. GH Flora Series is a good nutrient alone.
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Please explain the difference in what I recommended and how it would be different with coco/perlite. :Namaste:
 
I am about to throw out my dud. I got a plant that is horrible. Auto topped from the moment it broke soil looked sick and thin the hole time but never deficient or abused. I did a whole lot of things and finnaly got it healthy looking about the time I wanted to flip to bloom. I assumed the whole time I had some problem in my soil even though I mixed it in a large batch with 2 other plants that were fine.

Almost immediately into bloom it started failing again and again I just attributed it to the soil but it was female so I cloned it to see if I could get something the next round. Well not long after the clones started off they started to do the same thing.

Not saying this is your problem but if you haven't raised a dud seed then you haven't planted very many. They happen. Poor genetics and probably not because of the breeder or the breeds. Just some times tards happen.

The thin one looks to have clawing associated most commonly with the #1 cannabis nute problem...over dosing Nitrogen. That will also cause stunted growth and some other issues.


I don't grow Coco so wouldn't be the one to recommend the proper way to flush that and start it over.


:Namaste:
 
I feel yah, VI! I only got 5 seeds to sprout out of my Bubblelicious seeds, and one of them was a tard with one cotyledon with NO growth tip. They sent me a bunch of undersized seed, and I think they were old, because 2 plump seeds opened, but the insides were dried out. One totally disintegrated, so I don't have any proof of it's condition, and the one I have in water now, has been there for 2 weeks, getting darker, but no sin of opening.

I have two TINY seeds left, and I figure I might as well try to pop those. I'm keeping the failures handy for a final picture to NirvanaSeeds to see if they will replace them. I figure if I can get 6 to grow, I'll be happy, but anything less, then I'll ask for replacements.

I wonder, tho, if that would be rude, seeing as they included 10 free unknowns.
 
AKgramma said:
Please explain the difference in what I recommended and how it would be different with coco/perlite. :Namaste:
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Where do I begin? You said in your post to not fertilize for at least 2 months - coco is completely inert and contains no nutes - feeding is required daily - if you wait two months to feed in coco the plant will be dead. You also said to let it dry out - you never let coco dry out - it is drain to waste hydro - daily watering/feeding replenishes the medium with fresh nutes, pushes out stale oxygen and pulls in fresh oxygen when you water. Coco holds 30% oxygen even when saturated - as long as you have established roots it is impossible to over-water - the only exception to that is a very small seedling in a very large container. Those are just a couple of differences between soil and coco - they are nothing alike and shouldn't be treated the same.

%
 
OEF Vet 11B said:
They say to rotate em around the room so if there is a sweet spot they will all get it. I heard larger plants on the outside of tent and smaller ones in the middle is best as well although I don't follow that one.
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I move my lights around, every couple days or so, to adjust for plant height and after training. This is easy for me as all my lights are on utility lamps that clamp onto the framework of the "tent" or on the pots themselves. One advantage of CFLs - portability. I think I also instinctively arrange the larger plants along the walls and the juveniles in the middle, where i can tend them more often.
 
If you are using the same water with that as the others it is a dud. the symptoms are serious pH fluctuations causing a number of problems. If the pH is actually fine and the others use the same solution and they are fine then this on is intolerant and basically just a wussy.

That said the other ones don't look fantastic either. the leaves are not perk and standing up. Do you have proper temps and humidity? I will post a chart below. It is for a hydro grow so the EC may not be for you but the rest of it should be pretty good to follow.


CCH2O-Recommendations-Graph-1024x743.jpg



I think your overall conditions are not optimal so that means any minor fluctuations are going to hit them hard. If they are not transpiring efficiently and fast then they have to deal with what they have which may not be enough or may be wrong if it is trying to do real photosynthesis.


:goodluck:
 
Weaselcracker said:
It looks, in part, like signs of low ph to me.
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If pH is a real problem, like if your tapwater is very alkaline, you may have to purchase water and mix it with your water, or use purchased water exclusively. This can get expensive, but still less expensive and less time-consuming than using water purifiers. I used to have to mix bottled water 50/50 with tap water when I had a tropical fish hobby. I felt that chemical remediation was not an option.
 
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