Help please
- Thread starter Jmanzo420
- Start date
I would not give up either but it does not look like any sort of 'lock out' unless you are seeing something else other than those small black spots.
Looks like a lot of dark colored spots on the leaves which are probably "black spot" which is a fungus disease which can be found on a lot of different plants. In those photos it appears to be a mild case, probably because it has not advanced yet. Very possible that you can take care of it in a few weeks by spraying with a mix of horticultural soap or horticultural oil with some bicarbonate of soda added. I have treated similar 'black spot' with a couple of sprays of Neem Oil or maybe it was Nuke'Em. I don't remember which but I do remember the problem went away fast enough that I forget it was there until I see photographs.
Keep the humidity in the room or tent down which means you might have to change your watering schedule from 'watering constantly'.
More info on this 'black spot' can be found by doing a google search using the following keywords:
treatment for black spot on plants
I just now did the search and along with the usual gardening links I noticed 4 or 5 links to message threads that have been posted on 420magazine.com between 2012 and 2018 give or take a year.
Looks like a lot of dark colored spots on the leaves which are probably "black spot" which is a fungus disease which can be found on a lot of different plants. In those photos it appears to be a mild case, probably because it has not advanced yet. Very possible that you can take care of it in a few weeks by spraying with a mix of horticultural soap or horticultural oil with some bicarbonate of soda added. I have treated similar 'black spot' with a couple of sprays of Neem Oil or maybe it was Nuke'Em. I don't remember which but I do remember the problem went away fast enough that I forget it was there until I see photographs.
Keep the humidity in the room or tent down which means you might have to change your watering schedule from 'watering constantly'.
More info on this 'black spot' can be found by doing a google search using the following keywords:
treatment for black spot on plants
I just now did the search and along with the usual gardening links I noticed 4 or 5 links to message threads that have been posted on 420magazine.com between 2012 and 2018 give or take a year.
- Thread starter
- #4
Soil is fox farm ocean, it seems to have started at the top of plant, but seems to be getting worse daily.
- Thread starter
- #5
They are definitely getting direct light, only reason I don’t think it’s a fungus is the spots don’t rub off at all, I did a flush and tested the run off and the ph was 6.8. I have been keeping them in the tent with the lights on 24/7…. Can that cause the issue?
Are the spots Black or Rusty colored ? Not sure if Fungus starts at the Top or just where ever it chooses. Calcium Deficiency Starts at the Top & works it way down.
But with 4 ml. of Cal Mag I doubt it's Calcium. Maybe too much of it ? Not sure. How often are you watering ? It sounds like you are watering too often the way you described it. But the leaves aren't drooping so it must not be as bad as it sounded.... lol. I've had something that looked similar before. When I added too much Terpinator to my feed mix this happened (6 ml. per gal.). I'm thinking this has to do with a P or K issue. I'd recommend asking @Emilya, @bluter & @Nunyabiz about this also.
But with 4 ml. of Cal Mag I doubt it's Calcium. Maybe too much of it ? Not sure. How often are you watering ? It sounds like you are watering too often the way you described it. But the leaves aren't drooping so it must not be as bad as it sounded.... lol. I've had something that looked similar before. When I added too much Terpinator to my feed mix this happened (6 ml. per gal.). I'm thinking this has to do with a P or K issue. I'd recommend asking @Emilya, @bluter & @Nunyabiz about this also.
- Thread starter
- #7
They are definitely rusty color not black at all actually,
If it's rusty colored it's most likely a Calcium issue. @Emilya is great at this stuff. She'll know how to remedy it. I've been taking her advice for 4 years now & with the issues I've had.... She's never been wrong... So Far.... lol.
Are you using Big Boom, too? It's "sort of" an organic compost tea kind of product, I think. But, according to the company, can be used throughout the entire grow.
- Thread starter
- #10
That kinda what I figured from everything I have read. That’s why I think it’s locked out for some reason.
- Thread starter
- #11
No just cal-mag&tiger bloom
Might be. Have you looked at the Pest & Problem section on GWE ? It shows all kinds of issues & solutions.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
Hi @Jmanzo420 ! You just answered the big question... You can not expect a good grow just using tiger bloom all by itself. It must be complimented with Big Bloom and depending on where you are at in the grow, also Grow Big. Second, it looks like there are other problems, and I think it is pH related. Are you pH adjusting your fluids immediately before applying them to the soil, or are you measuring and adjusting your water, and then adding the Tiger Bloom? Are you following the feeding guide when you decide how much nutrient to mix in with your water? Have you ever flushed? Also, are you giving water on one pass and water mixed with the nutes on the next pass? Lastly, @Buds Buddy , why in the world would you recommend anyone to go to GWE, the TMV panic center of the known universe? Let's stay here with the sane people, please.
I heard that GWE was just a little behind, but would get there eventually - and that they're up to 1991 now
.- Thread starter
- #15
I have been adjusting water than adding tiger bloom and cal-mag, I only add the nutes every other watering and only water when top of soil looks like it’s dry. I did a flush with water ph 6.5 and then tested the runoff and it was 6.8. This is only my second time attempting a grow. I definitely follow the feeding rec on the bottle to the T.
- Thread starter
- #16
I have grow big as well as big bloom, but bottle says switch to tiger bloom at first sign of flower. I have also been giving big bloom every other watering.
Emilya Green
Well-Known Member
OK! We are making progress. First thing after reading this is for you to search for the fox farm soil feeding chart and download it. Follow this to the letter from now on, using the suggested nutrient mix for the week of the grow you are in. The instructions on the bottle do not at all tell you the whole story and generally are regarded as the outside grow directions. I would estimate that you are in the 5th week of bloom, looking at your pictures. Start there with whatever the directions tell you to do.
You are doing the pH all wrong. Sorry to be so blunt, but you are. First fill a bucket with water. Then add the nutes in the tsp/gal mix recommended for that week of the grow. Then add your calmag. After all of this is in the water, THEN adjust your pH to 6.3... not 6.5 This is super important in a Fox Farm grow... at 6.5 you will have some deficiencies late in the grow. Forget measuring your runoff, despite all the people telling you to do so. Runoff is like coffee out of a percolator, the more you have, the weaker it gets. Wherever you measure it from, at which strength is the accurate measurement of anything important? It is totally arbitrary what number you come up with here.
Second point about pH, is that you should not care one iota what the pH of your soil is, providing you are using a standard potting soil. Most of our soils are preset by the manufacturer at the high end of the 6.2-6.8 scale and that is right where you want it. All you have to do is water at 6.3 pH, and the soil will take care of everything for you. When you come in every other time with plain water, pH adjust that to 6.3 also. Typically a grower needs pH down for the water pass and pH up to adjust the nute water.
Follow the feeding chart, not the bottle. Fox Farm nutrients is a scientifically designed growing system, it is not just simply fertilizer. If you follow their instructions to the letter, you will end up with spectacular grows. Those who try to wing it, or follow that guys advice that all you need is Tiger Bloom, usually get in trouble thinking that the nutes are no good. If you really want to supercharge your grows and end up with almost organic quality product, also invest in the 3 pack of solubles, and start using them at the proper times as recommended! They have a good system there, designed to pull as many bucks out of your wallet as they can, because each major product of theirs that you add to the lineup, actually does noticeably improve your grow.
- Thread starter
- #18
Thank you so much, you have been unbelievably helpful. And reading this and then getting the chart I actually feel a lot more comfortable.
^THIS. ^ It's pointless to adjust pH, and then add stuff to the solution, because it'll almost certainly change that solution's pH when you do.
Also (unless specifically instructed otherwise by the nutrient manufacturer), I would add the "Ca / Mg" supplement first. Unless you decide to add a Si supplement - in which case, I'd add that first, then the calcium, then everything else.
She's got gardening chops, for sure, and is more helpful than an automatic back scratcher.
Just remember that nutrient feeding recommendations and schedules are sort of "one size fits most" things. You may encounter strains - especially if you grow certain landrace varieties, such as African sativas - that differ somewhat from the accepted norm in this regard. With luck, the breeder's web page for the strain will offer clues. But learning to "read" your plants is an invaluable actually. We have some pictorial threads in the plant Rx section that can help with that. Also, there are a couple versions of a thing called "Mulder's Chart" that can help when trying to figure out why one of your plants appears to be exhibiting a nutrient deficiency (or toxicity) and you cannot understand why, because you feel you have given it the correct amount of that particular element.
