Daniack

Active Member
Food:
Sensi grow - from advanced nutrients
BIOTONEX DENSO - from CANNABOOM
Growing in soil, feeding about 0,5 gallons (2 liters) of water every 2-3 days
2,5 month in veg. stage

Plant number one:
76607502_2140797919354050_2079071093921939456_n.jpg
76652260_2790565747655342_4892180746162143232_n.jpg

Plant number two:
74617528_2537326126592803_2950605312165412864_n (1).jpg
73472606_2528661490704099_287383825212768256_n (1).jpg
75375593_2193241804114369_8290682986169368576_n (1).jpg

I dont know what any of these signs means... when the first plant started having her spot she was on lowered nutrients amount because of nutrient toxicity she had. So I started giving her full amount of nutrients but it did not help.

Second plant was also on lowered nutrients and this happend day after first feeding where I went back to full amount of Ns.

Please help me expirienced growers. This is my first time and I would be really happy for any help.

(Sorry for the yellow light, I have no other light source in my grow room then my grow lamp.)
 
Plant number one:
76607502_2140797919354050_2079071093921939456_n.jpg
76652260_2790565747655342_4892180746162143232_n.jpg

Plant number two:
74617528_2537326126592803_2950605312165412864_n (1).jpg
73472606_2528661490704099_287383825212768256_n (1).jpg
75375593_2193241804114369_8290682986169368576_n (1).jpg


(Sorry for the yellow light, I have no other light source in my grow room then my grow lamp.)
You could try bringing in a lamp with a regular room style of light bulb. Then turn off the grow light while taking the photos. After you are done turn the grow lights back on. Just suggesting this as something to try.
 
Hello,
What is the PH you have been calibrating at?
Also, when you water are you going by the weight of the pots and ensuring they are getting the proper wet/dry cycle?
Hi, I dont calibrate my water. I am sticking just with the "PH perfect" ability, as the owner of local grow shop told me.

I am not picking them up since I cant get my hands around them anymore(I've been picking them before). Now I am just watching the plant and when I guess it is the right time I would stick my finger about one inch deep into the soil to check if it is dry to touch. If so, then I water the plant.
I am using the tap water. But I let it stay for 24 before I use it.
 
I am not picking them up since I cant get my hands around them anymore(I've been picking them before). Now I am just watching the plant and when I guess it is the right time I would stick my finger about one inch deep into the soil to check if it is dry to touch. If so, then I water the plant.
You cannot get your hands around the pots? How big are they?
 
Pots are not that big, but flowers are(I've been training them a lot to get them bushy). I could get under them to pick them up, but they are in pretty tight space, so I am rather using this technique.
When I grow in 5 gallon containers they weigh so much that I have a hard time moving them around plus the size of the plant which has been trained to be short but wide. It works out if our daughter's boyfriend is over and I get him to move those heavy containers around. Would love to have them be bushy but I just do not have the height in the flowering cabinet which means bending over to move those big pots.

The downside to testing whether they need water by sticking your finger into the soil is that there is the chance that the top is dry and the bottom is still wet. If more water is added it can make the bottom layer of soil to wet, almost soggy. Or, the top is dry and we water but we have no way to tell if the bottom layer of soil is dry. I have had that happen and there was no wet soil after about half way down a 5 gallon container. Kinda getting that figured out so it is not the problem it used to be.
 
When I grow in 5 gallon containers they weigh so much that I have a hard time moving them around plus the size of the plant which has been trained to be short but wide. It works out if our daughter's boyfriend is over and I get him to move those heavy containers around. Would love to have them be bushy but I just do not have the height in the flowering cabinet which means bending over to move those big pots.

The downside to testing whether they need water by sticking your finger into the soil is that there is the chance that the top is dry and the bottom is still wet. If more water is added it can make the bottom layer of soil to wet, almost soggy. Or, the top is dry and we water but we have no way to tell if the bottom layer of soil is dry. I have had that happen and there was no wet soil after about half way down a 5 gallon container. Kinda getting that figured out so it is not the problem it used to be.
I can see the downside, but it's been more then a month since I stated doing it like this and I see no signs of root rot, so I hope everything is ok.
 
I am definitely thinking pH or just a lack of available nutes. I see a potassium deficiency starting up... Did you say you were using the pH Perfect line of nutes @Daniack ? Are you following the full dosage instructions?
First of all thanks for help.
Yea indeed, I am using pH perfect Ns. Here is where it gets interesting: this plant was on lowered nutrient amount because of N toxicity. One watering back I went back to full amount of N and this is what I saw next morning.

Yea, it look like pH problem but I cant see how that could happend with my N, counsidering there was not problem till now.

Edit: only other thing that has changedin past days is that I left mybottles with N open, but I guess that is not a problem right?
 
First of all thanks for help.
Yea indeed, I am using pH perfect Ns. Here is where it gets interesting: this plant was on lowered nutrient amount because of N toxicity. One watering back I went back to full amount of N and this is what I saw next morning.

Yea, it look like pH problem but I cant see how that could happend with my N, counsidering there was not problem till now.

Edit: only other thing that has changedin past days is that I left mybottles with N open, but I guess that is not a problem right?
I am thinking that you misread the N toxicity issue and mistakenly cut back on the needed nutes. Do you have pictures of what you thought was a N toxicity situation? Going back to full nutes did not cause this problem... you are looking at an effect of something that happened in the past... most likely when you cut back on this carefully regulated system PH Perfect has put in place for you. You second guessed the experts, and this was the result. Regarding leaving the bottles open... I can't see it causing a lot of harm.. maybe a little water evaporated. Its not like there isn't air in the empty part of the bottles that they are sitting in.
 
I am thinking that you misread the N toxicity issue and mistakenly cut back on the needed nutes. Do you have pictures of what you thought was a N toxicity situation? Going back to full nutes did not cause this problem... you are looking at an effect of something that happened in the past... most likely when you cut back on this carefully regulated system PH Perfect has put in place for you. You second guessed the experts, and this was the result. Regarding leaving the bottles open... I can't see it causing a lot of harm.. maybe a little water evaporated. Its not like there isn't air in the empty part of the bottles that they are sitting in.
Well, I don't have pictures from that, but I can describe: Claws, really dark green plant, burned tips on some leaves.
She was on that regulated nutes for some time... I hope I did not make a mistake.
Do you have any advice what could I do to help her?
I am was about to transision to flower stage. Should I wait?
Thanks for your help a lot... as a beginner I really appreciate it.
 
I want to know why an AN grow produced such toxicity.... only then can I begin to understand where you are at now.
My advice for now is to follow the directions... exactly... don't second guess. Don't add anything but the AN. Call AN and ask them about the bottles that were left open and if this might be super concentrating the nutes.

I would never transition to flower while I was still battling a nutrition problem. Yes you should wait... the nutrition needs just get more complicated after transition. Fix the problems now while the plants are still in an adaptive phase... once you go to bloom they stop adapting to all of our nonsense and they start reacting instead. In bloom you want a happy plant, not one reacting to some stressor you have introduced into its world.
 
I want to know why an AN grow produced such toxicity.... only then can I begin to understand where you are at now.
My advice for now is to follow the directions... exactly... don't second guess. Don't add anything but the AN. Call AN and ask them about the bottles that were left open and if this might be super concentrating the nutes.

I would never transition to flower while I was still battling a nutrition problem. Yes you should wait... the nutrition needs just get more complicated after transition. Fix the problems now while the plants are still in an adaptive phase... once you go to bloom they stop adapting to all of our nonsense and they start reacting instead. In bloom you want a happy plant, not one reacting to some stressor you have introduced into its world.
I have no idea, only that it might be because I've topped her in young age. She was stressed for few days and did not show any progress. So when she was 3 weeks old, she looked like plant that is bit over 2 weeks but I gave her nute amount for 3 week old pant.
I will not second guess, sorry.
+ fresh pics:
75247457_1181937765339964_7825920696713740288_n.jpg
76688902_435029897433796_1328510608164782080_n.jpg
 
Well in my mind the 1st problem was clay pots - no air to the roots , 2nd over watering , needs longer dry cycle with clay pots , 3rd I have never seen a nute product that didn't need a ph check unless you are growing in a true organic soil , the ph balance nute thing manufactures claim is b.s.The closer your lights to the plant the more it wants to drink , the more it drinks the more nutes it takes in ,now the plant becomes over fed.Get some cloth pots , 5-7 gallon , use distilled water (tap water has to much crap in it unless you have had it tested and know whats in it ) and 1/2 strength nutes , not sure what your lights are at but move them up away for a few days , you don't need growth now you need a recovery period of a week or so.
 
Well in my mind the 1st problem was clay pots - no air to the roots , 2nd over watering , needs longer dry cycle with clay pots , 3rd I have never seen a nute product that didn't need a ph check unless you are growing in a true organic soil , the ph balance nute thing manufactures claim is b.s.The closer your lights to the plant the more it wants to drink , the more it drinks the more nutes it takes in ,now the plant becomes over fed.Get some cloth pots , 5-7 gallon , use distilled water (tap water has to much crap in it unless you have had it tested and know whats in it ) and 1/2 strength nutes , not sure what your lights are at but move them up away for a few days , you don't need growth now you need a recovery period of a week or so.
They are plastic, but I guess that's the same problem. I made them hover over drain plates so there is space between them for air, I'd say rn they have excellent drainage, but roots are getting air only from bottom and top. I'll move my lights up, but I don't know about the nutes, @Emilya just told me that I should stick to nute program I have from Advanced Nutriens specialists. And for which plant is your comment for, please? (I have 2 problems in this thread)
 
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