Electrical setup

H

Hackk

New Member
So in a month, Im upgrading my setup to run 2-4 1000w in one room (havent decided yet of 2 or 4), and Im trying to figure out my electrical needs. The most important thing, the breaker box is in the room, so it makes things extremely easy if I have to tap into it. The rooms power is also tied in with the other 2 bedrooms, and they trip easily as it it is now, so I can already assume that I cant just run it as is. So I have three options, 1)run from the wall sockets as it is now, but would probably fail. 2) Add another circuit to the breaker, and run off that. 3) install a sub panel, and run off that. Now I will admit, I truly know NOTHING about electrical systems (however, I am very good with dyi projects, so if I learned on what route to travel down, I can handle it from there) I know how electricity works, I know how to wire, I just dont know what I need to do (I know how to drive a car, just not how to build it)

I called some licensed electricians, and they either said they would have to check it out themselves to give me an estimate, or $1200 flat rate. So since I refuse to do either, I want to try this out myself.

So to sum it up, what are your opinions on what I should do? The breaker box is right there, now how do I use it to my advantage?
 
General rule of thumb for residential circuits (U.S.) is don't put more than a thousand watts on a single circuit. Any more would be risking an electrical fire. Check out the Medical Marjuana Grower's Bible By Jorge Cervantes. There's a whole chapter on lights and electricity. I'd go with the subpanel. U should also invest in professional electrical work. Ur return should cover costs. Its just not worth it to burn down a house when it can be prevented.
 
I'm in the same situation. Looking to run 4000w in an apartment but haven't played with the breakers yet. I was able to pull two 600s, plus all the extra equipment, plus all my home needs on a previous project, but i'm not sure if maybe that building had higher electrical ratings than most. My question is this: will plugging the lights into different outlets (i.e. on different breakers) fix the overload problem, or is it the net pull that will blow the circuit? Can i just split the load over a few breakers, or do i really need a sub-panel to act as a 'pre-breaker' for the entire electric box?

Thanks!
 
that's the best thing you can do is split the load across different circuits (as a circuit overload precaution) if ur not goin to have any pro electrical work done. I've effectively grown in this fashion. For a home (unless u have high ceilings, a garage, or good ventilation system), I'd suggest using a 600W instead. They use less power, generated less heat and can be moved closer to plants.
 
er.. when you say you've done it in this fashion previously, what was the wattage of the project? Was it an apartment or residential? New or old building? I'm talking about 4 total, not a single. Are you suggesting using four 600s instead of four 1000s? Need some clarification.

Thanks in advance ;)
 
Chipz said:
er.. when you say you've done it in this fashion previously, what was the wattage of the project? Was it an apartment or residential? New or old building? I'm talking about 4 total, not a single. Are you suggesting using four 600s instead of four 1000s? Need some clarification.
Thanks in advance ;)
Click to expand...

Got a grow goin in an older building. one of the 1st things I did was to inspect the breaker box. Older breakers or fuses it'd be best (imo) to split the load. I spoke with a licensed electrician and took his advice. No fires, no blown anything. no tripped breakers. There's also risk associated in running long distances with extension cords, but u just have to evaluate the pros and cons and make ur decision based on that. I was saying that 2 air cooled 600W would be a better investment because they'll cover a larger area, the load can be split across different circuits, and u can utilize more lumens by being able to position ur hood closer to the plants to get max light penetration. These are my opinions based upon past experience with 120V U.S. residential wiring. With breakers the main concern is amperes or amps. Quite simply put if ur load exceeds the rating on the breaker it will trip or blow. Think about fans, pumps, light movers, etc. It all counts. Hope some of this helps. :peace:
 
Most control panels have room to add new breakers. Add a couple new 25amp breakers in the box and use them. Wiring is actually really easy just do a little reading. Home depot and lowes have good books on wiring jobs.
The math for calculating needs.
Volts X Amps = Watts.
110volts X 25amps = 2750watts
But don't push it anywhere near that high. Electrical motors and hps lights surge when first started and can overload the circuit. To be safe use one 25amp circuit per light(if 1000w) plus a couple fans or carbon scrubber.
 
Thanks for the info guys. Im still a little fuzzy on how exactly I would need to run, but for safety, I think Im gonna make some stops at random electricians and hint I need to run a "420 series computer server" and see if they pick up on it to get opinions.

I took apart the breaker box yesterday, its rated at 125 amps 120v 2stage, or can run 240v 3 stage, and it APPEARS as though I have one slot not being used. The left breakers all have a black wire, while the red breakers switch off between red and black every other one. Looking at it just makes my brain melt...

So let me get some clarification: I know if the slot is available I can add a breaker, but that wont supply me with what I need, so the only other option is (this is where Im still confused) replace the whole box with a higher rated amperage, or connect a second box to the existing box? Would it help if I took pictures?

Thanks!
 
One of the books will show you how to do that too. I too went with the 220v addon box and then from that to one of the "Little Grey Boxes" as the timer. Its rated at 35 amps. They're at home depot or lowes too.
 
Yep but try not to run that high.
40 amps would equal about 4500 watts. I run about 1400 on mine. Its all I need. I just wanted a good reliable setup. Have 5 wall plugins wired to it ans one that bypasses it for fulltime use. Know I can plug into a timer anywhere in the room without a lot of wires strewn all over the place.
 
I wire 220 into the breaker box and 220 into the timer. Then 110 out to my wall sockets. So at some later date if I decide to go 220 all the way it will be easy. 220 ballasts though are pretty much of a waste unless your going to be running a lot of them.
 
Weed420 said:
220 ballasts though are pretty much of a waste unless your going to be running a lot of them.
Click to expand...

The benefit of running ballasts at 220v is that the current draw (amps) is half that of 110v. Amps = (watts ÷ volts)
 
Hi.

Thanks for all the great input! I take it from the previous discussions that we are talking about a 220v 'subpanel' that would be added to the existing breaker box, am i right? I don't think my situation requires a subpanel, but i am inclined to run my ballasts at 220 to help stay under the radar with dwp. How would i set up my existing breaker box (at least 3 open breaker slots) to run 3 1000w hps ballasts/lights at 220v instead of 110v?

Also, am i right in my understanding that running my lights at 220v will cost me exactly half on my electricity bill..?

Thanks in advance, you guys rock!
 
Chipz said:
How would i set up my existing breaker box (at least 3 open breaker slots) to run 3 1000w hps ballasts/lights at 220v instead of 110v?
Click to expand...

Do your c/b's line up vertically in two columns? :hmmmm:


Chipz said:
Also, am i right in my understanding that running my lights at 220v will cost me exactly half on my electricity bill..?
Click to expand...

That would be sweet, but it ain't the case. Your utility provider charges you by watts (kilowatt hours), not amps. 220 uses half the amps, but the same amount of watts. :sorry:
 
Yes there are two columns.

What does it mean that 220 uses half the amps? Can i run two 1000w on a 210 line at the same breaker capacity as a single 1000w on a 110 line? Trying to make sense of this..

Thanks.
 
Chipz said:
What does it mean that 220 uses half the amps? Can i run two 1000w on a 210 line at the same breaker capacity as a single 1000w on a 110 line? Trying to make sense of this..
Thanks.
Click to expand...
As I said earlier, amps = watts/volts. So, for example, if we use your 2 - 1k lites, 2000/110 = 18.18 amps or 2000/220 = 9.09 amps. The benefit here is that your breaker and wiring can be sized for the lower current (amps) value, and that your overall amperage from your service panel is reduced.

Chipz said:
Yes there are two columns.
Click to expand...
Great! You will need to replace two of your breakers with a 220 breaker (breaker levers locked together) of the correct amperage for your project.
 

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