Dwc ph-nute creep

[rdooski3]

Im aware ph creeps up in dwc and account for it but what about the nute level? The only thread I could really find talking about it said the nute level will creep up but they didn't go into detail. In flower I find I need to top off my reservoirs every other day. How much nutes should I be adding to the fluid I top them off with? I use a 3-part setup at 75% strength in RO water to start with. I will probably just end up getting a tds meter and testing it to find out since I need to get one anyways. But I was curious if anyone had any experience with the subject?

 

[BeanTownFan420]

@Stltoed your the DWC mon can you help @rdooski3 on this one?

 

[BeanTownFan420]

@multiVortex any chance you got the answer @rdooski3 needs?

 

[Stltoed]

Im aware ph creeps up in dwc and account for it but what about the nute level? The only thread I could really find talking about it said the nute level will creep up but they didn't go into detail. In flower I find I need to top off my reservoirs every other day. How much nutes should I be adding to the fluid I top them off with? I use a 3-part setup at 75% strength in RO water to start with. I will probably just end up getting a tds meter and testing it to find out since I need to get one anyways. But I was curious if anyone had any experience with the subject?

You will need a meter asap
How much is the pH moving?
I would just replace with nute free water until its time for a nute change then replace it. If you are constantly adding nutrients its easy to get lost regarding how much you've given. If you add an autofil valve you won't have to worry about topping it off

 

[BeanTownFan420]

@Stltoed

 

[rdooski3]

You will need a meter asap
How much is the pH moving?
I would just replace with nute free water until its time for a nute change then replace it. If you are constantly adding nutrients its easy to get lost regarding how much you've given. If you add an autofil valve you won't have to worry about topping it off

The ph isn't moving much. Its little enough that I dont need to adjust it with any ph down. Luckily my RO water comes out at 5.8 too. I use 2 seperate reservoirs (ice chests for temperature purposes) with 1 plant in each and manually top them off. Thanks for the input I will definitely be grabbing a meter so I can be sure exactly whats needed.

 

[Stltoed]

The ph isn't moving much. Its little enough that I dont need to adjust it with any ph down. Luckily my RO water comes out at 5.8 too. I use 2 seperate reservoirs (ice chests for temperature purposes) with 1 plant in each and manually top them off. Thanks for the input I will definitely be grabbing a meter so I can be sure exactly whats needed.

Dude, I want your water 5.8... nice

 

[TorturedSoul]

Seems a little low to me. I realize that pure water absorbs some CO₂ from the atmosphere and its pH drops from the 7 that it starts at (as it is no longer pure), but I would have expected it to be somewhere around 6.5 instead of 5.8.

 

[multiVortex]

You will need a meter asap
How much is the pH moving?
I would just replace with nute free water until its time for a nute change then replace it. If you are constantly adding nutrients its easy to get lost regarding how much you've given. If you add an autofil valve you won't have to worry about topping it off

This is the deal right here.

Auto top off is a cheap, beautiful thing. For less than $30, or thereabouts, you can make your own. It’s dead simple too.

A heavy duty commander tote from lowes, a bulkhead that’s for 1/2” hose, a float valve (with bulkhead that accepts 1/2” hose), and of course, the hose.


Fill that tote with plain, ph’d, RO water. I also add a small airstone just to keep it oxygenated.


Your pH, in general, is ok to drift a bit through the range. Whichever way it’s tending to trend, set it initially at the opposite end of the range. Drifting up? Set it at 5.5 and let it rise through. Drifting down? Set it at 6.5 and let it drift down through.

Letting it drift through allows different elements to be absorbed, etc.


The ppm will also be more stable. I have a small res on one that is about 6-7gal. I have to top it up twice a day in flower as the PPM will rise a but as water gets consumed. I don’t have a top-off on this one, but it’s going away anyway in favor of a different setup.


But the top-off is essentially replacing water the plant(s) drink. So the ppm/tds/ec will instead actually show what the plants are doing. Eating or drinking more, etc.

With RO water, I’ve started adding calmag to it from the start. So any make up water has a little in it. If I’m also running silica, I’ll add that first, then calmag, and let it mix for a day before using it.

 

[Stltoed]

Seems a little low to me. I realize that pure water absorbs some CO₂ from the atmosphere and its pH drops from the 7 that it starts at (as it is no longer pure), but I would have expected it to be somewhere around 6.5 instead of 5.8.

For hydro 5.8 is perfect

 

[rdooski3]

For hydro 5.8 is perfect

I think he was basically saying 5.8 is low for RO water to come out at. I was surprised myself.

 

[Stltoed]

I think he was basically saying 5.8 is low for RO water to come out at. I was surprised myself.

I guess I'm not that surprised.

 

[The Phantom]

I'll agree with @Stltoed that you'll want to monitor your TDS. It sounds like you already monitor your pH.

Have you seen this chart yet?

Sorry if you have seen it and I'm beating a dead horse.

Also can anyone that is familiar with this chart tell me where the hell Note 1 and Note 2 are that it refers to?

 

[Stltoed]

I'll agree with @Stltoed that you'll want to monitor your TDS. It sounds like you already monitor your pH.

Have you seen this chart yet?

Sorry if you have seen it and I'm beating a dead horse.

Also can anyone that is familiar with this chart tell me where the hell Note 1 and Note 2 are that it refers to?

If you use a float valve this chart is basically useless. Dont get me wrong, Its good info, and Phantom makes a strong point by brining it up, but the convenience of not having to carry water to your rig every day is really cool.

But! You CAN buy a flow meter (Hydrologic makes one) to watch how much water your plants are using... not a perfect solution, but you can make it work with practice

 

[TorturedSoul]

I think he was basically saying 5.8 is low for RO water to come out at

Seems a little low to me. I realize that pure water absorbs some CO₂ from the atmosphere and its pH drops from the 7 that it starts at (as it is no longer pure), but I would have expected it to be somewhere around 6.5 instead of 5.8.

I'm curious about the pH of your water before it enters the RO device. Also wondering whether that device "remineralizes" its output or something.

 

[The Phantom]

Good point about the float valve, I missed that.

 

[Stltoed]

Good point about the float valve, I missed that.

Nah dude, you're good. Im just expressing my love for laziness. My float valve is my single favorite piece in my hydro rig. It allows me to leave town for a while, keeps my waterline in place, and keeps me from fetching buckets of water like a slave. The chart is great info.

 

[The Phantom]

It is except where the hell are Notes 1 & 2 at?

 

[Stltoed]

It is except where the hell are Notes 1 & 2 at?

Note 1 is a recipe for plastic explosives and 2 is just the lyrics for Salt N Pepas song Shoup. I can't explain it

 

[rdooski3]

I'll agree with @Stltoed that you'll want to monitor your TDS. It sounds like you already monitor your pH.

Have you seen this chart yet?

Sorry if you have seen it and I'm beating a dead horse.

Also can anyone that is familiar with this chart tell me where the hell Note 1 and Note 2 are that it refers to?

Nice thanks! I haven't seen that chart before and its much appreciated.