DrCannaCanadian: MarsHydro & Seedsman, Soil & Coco, 2020

[DrCannaCanadian]

My Growing Experiences

By DrCannaCanadian

How To Water Seedlings In A Solo Cup Of Soil​

I recently had a question on using weight, instead of feel, to water seedlings in solo cups. And since we know how easy it is to overwater seedlings, I put together a few tips from my own experiences to help me out in my future grows.

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1) Establish our dry weight - the point at which we need to water:

2) For a newborn seedling, it is safer to water with only 30 ml (1oz) of water (no nutes & pH of 6.50) down the middle to help drive the primary tap root to the bottom of the cup. For newborns, we can also alternate between watering the middle and watering the edges of the cup. For a 1 week old seedling, we can water slowly & gently, with about 90 ml (3 oz) water only (no nutes & pH of 6.50), or until we see run-off dripping out the bottom. Remember, we want the soil to be moist, not soaking wet.

3) Spritz lightly with water every 12 hours for the next 24 hours - use a humidity dome if you want:

4) Weigh again after 24 hours:

5) Here's where a lot of people can get into trouble! Most of the water is now pooled at the bottom of the solo cup. We need the plant to drink that water over the next 24 hours. So, use a shot glass and slowly water the edges of the soil with 30 ml (1 oz) of water. Then walk away!

6) Spritz lightly with water every 12 hours for the next 24 hours - use a humidity dome if you want:

7) Somewhere between 12 hours and 24 hours later, we should be ready to water again:

7) In summary, for soil in a solo cup, we can see there is approximately a 2 day wet/dry cycle for soil.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


The Importance Of Pistils To Cannabis Growers
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Cannabis growers that understand the cannabis life cycle and can tell the difference between male and female plants before flowering will always enjoy more success than the witless weed grower. Pistils can tell you a whole lot about your cannabis plants. In this blog, we take a closer look at why they are so important.

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WHAT IS A PISTIL?

A pistil is a female cannabis plant sex organ. To the ordinary decent home grower, a pistil is a hair that protrudes from a calyx on a female flower. They are also known as stigmas. When a pistillate hair comes into contact with pollen from a male cannabis plant, it is then pollinated.

Instead of focusing on producing more resinous flowers the female cannabis plant begins to develop seeds. The cannabis will be less potent, and seeds will form in the bracts that contain the ovule. Sensimilla, which means seedless, is entirely dependent on female cannabis plants not getting pollinated.

WHAT CAN A PISTIL TELL YOU ABOUT YOUR YOUNG CANNABIS PLANTS?

Typically male cannabis plants will develop preflowers sooner than their female counterparts in the cannabis garden. 3-6 weeks post germination you should be able to confirm that your feminized photoperiod seeds really are all females even if they are still in vegetative growth. Likewise, if you have regular seeds, you should be able to identify the male plants for removal before flowering.

Pistils tend to poke out from nodes pretty randomly on young cannabis plants. Carefully inspect your cannabis plants and you will spot preflowers sooner or later during vegetative growth. Sometimes they are obvious, close to the top of the plants and easy to spot. But this is not guaranteed so really examine the plants carefully.

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Beside a stipule which is itself a green hair like growth on the stem, you will see the preflowers. You are hoping to see a wispy white hair at the node. If you see any kind of ball and no hair you’ve got a male. Until you can see a white hair emerging from a few nodes you really can’t be sure you’ve got a female cannabis plant.

You may have to wait as long as 8 weeks of vegetative growth with some strains to confirm female cannabis plants. However, after 4-6 weeks most growers can at least weed out the males. And keep an eye on one or two uncertain plants in early bloom if need be.

WHAT CAN A PISTIL TELL YOU ABOUT YOUR MATURE CANNABIS PLANTS?

Autoflowering cannabis plants tend to suddenly erupt with flowers quicker than you would expect. Somewhere between day 15-35 post-germination, your feminized autoflowering cannabis seeds will have multiple white pistils bursting forth from the first flowers. A week or so later and buds are beginning to swell up with calyx’s and sparkling with resin. Pistils will rapidly change colour from white to orange/red in days rather than weeks.

With photoperiod cannabis strains’ flowering has three sub-stages: early bloom, mid-bloom and late bloom. Pistils are a great indicator of how your female cannabis plants are progressing. With the onset of a 12/12 light cycle, the pistils will be completely white. Somewhere around week 4-6, midway through flowering, is when the first orange, red and/or pink colours begin to emerge and proliferate. Not until sometime during weeks 7-10 following a good flush with pure water or a light flushing solution will a majority of the pistils be beautiful ripe shades of red, orange and brown.

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DO ONLY FEMALE CANNABIS PLANTS HAVE PISTILS?

Female plants and intersex plants will display pistils. Unfortunately, intersex plants will also produce pollen and are as great a threat to your females as a rogue male cannabis plant. Moreover, stress can cause any cannabis plant to develop intersex traits. Some varieties of industrial hemp are bred specifically for their hermaphrodite characteristics.

Do you want Sensimilla? Then you need to make sure none of your female plant's pistils get pollinated. This means you must continue to monitor your plants throughout flowering. Disturbances in the dark cycle are perhaps the greatest stress factor that contributes to hermies.

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HOW CAN PISTILS HELP YOU DECIDE WHEN TO HARVEST?

Before the advent of microscopes and zoom lenses, ganja farmers had to rely on their intuition when harvesting cannabis. The good old-fashioned eyeball inspection of cannabis flowers is a tried and trusted pre-harvest practice. When 75% or more of the pistils are full of vibrant colours, most cannabis growers will call time on cultivation. Flowers covered in red, orange, pink and brown hairs are definitely mature.

Without advanced optics, you’ll also be able to see the shimmer of trichomes. Besides, buds will be sticky to the touch — although you shouldn’t handle them excessively unless you’re making charras. Furthermore, the pungent aroma of ripe reefer should be a loud cue your female cannabis plant is finished. All five senses have a role to play. Pistils are a valuable visual aid throughout the cannabis lifecycle.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


Getting To Know The Cannabis Calyx, Resinous To The Top​

Knowing what a calyx is and what parts the calyx is comprised of can provide the cannabis grower with tips and tools to help with a successful and easy harvest.

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WHAT IS A CALYX

The calyx is the first part of the flower that is formed when a young plant enters its flowering stage, if it is indeed a plant that is capable of flowering of course. In a perfect spiraling Fibonacci sequence the plant quickly and in the most efficient way forms a protective platform comprising of small leaves, which are called the sepals. This protective platform for the flower in its entirity is called the calyx.

The calyx is designed to protect the plants reproductive organs in between the sepals and provide the flower with a base of stability. Even though all flowering male and female plants have calyxes, it is when looking at cannabis plants specifically, that only the calyxes of the female plants are of interest to the aspiring cannabis grower.

When cultivating cannabis, the objective is to harvest nice big colas of which the calyxes are a part. Not just any ordinary part, but the most important part, because the calyxes are where you find the reproductive organs of the plant, called the pistils, and the trichomes.

The pistils are where you see the long hairs coming from; these hairs are called stigmas. The stigmas will start out white when the plant is still in its early flowering stage, but will turn amber or yellow, and ultimately brown, as the plant progresses through its flowering stage. The trichomes are the resin glands where the cannabinoids are formed, including the psychoactive and more familiar THC.

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WHAT DOES THE CALYX TELL AN EXPERIENCED GROWER

The pistils are also the best tool a grower to spot the difference between the male and the female plants. It is important to recognize the male plants early on so they can be removed and any risk of pollination can be minimized or even excluded. Female plants can be recognized by their long white hairs, that will begin to form early in the flowering stages of forming the buds or colas. The male plants will have pollen sacks, that will start to dangle in a downward fashion and eventually will burst open to pollinate the female calyxes.

The stigmas or long hairs can help a grower identify when a plant is ready to be harvested. In the first weeks a female cannabis flower or bud is formed, it will have long white hairs coming out if it. After 4 to 5 weeks the stigmas will start to turn yellowish. When about 50 to 80 percent of your plants' buds have stigmas, that have turned yellow or amber, they are ready to be harvested. If you harvest later, the stigmas will turn brown and dry out; do not wait this long to harvest your cannabis plants, as it will have your buds lose potency and taste.

In fact most of the cannabinoids are formed in the pistils and the calyxes of the cannabis plant. This is the flower part of the plant, that will eventually be harvested, dried and cured and ultimately will be ready for consumption.

The consumption part is why you do not want your female plants to be pollinated; they would start to form seeds, which are a real hassle to remove and leave a horrible taste and crackling sound when smoked. Also most of the female plants energy will be diverted into making the seeds, not swelling up the buds and forming cannabinoids.

If you intentionally aim to make your own strain of cannabis by crossing two breeds or strains, watch the calyxes of your developing plants to identify the males and females you want to use for your experiment.

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WHAT IS A CALYX-TO-LEAF RATIO

When harvesting your cannabis plants, you will have to trim off the leaves to expose the buds, which then in turn can be properly dried and cured.

The big leaves, that grow lower on the plant and in between the budding areas, but not in the buds or cola’s themselves, are called fan leaves; these are basically the solar panels of the plant. These leaves provide the plant with the energy it needs to grow and form buds. The few fan leaves that remain after pruning during the flowering stage can be easily trimmed away at harvest when growing indoors. When growing outdoors, most fan leaves will still be attached to the plant at the end of the flowering stage but these can be easily removed at the time of harvesting.

There are also leaves sticking out of the buds themselves; these are called sugar leaves, because they are coated with trichomes, that look sugary white, and these are a lot harder to trim, because the high level of resin makes them very sticky. Sticky leaves mean you will have to clean your equipment more and the tools you are using will get harder to operate due to the moving parts getting stuck together.

The sugar leaves is what the calyx-to-leaf ratio is all about, it tells you how much of a hassle it is going to be to trim when harvested. Plants with a high calyx-to-leaf ratio have fewer sugar leaves, making the buds or colas easier to trim.

Sugar leaves aren’t all bad though; they can be very well used to make edibles or cannabutter, tinctures, extractions, topicals or even hashish. They can even be smoked, but because of the higher combustion temperature of the leaves the taste may be affected.

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The top 5 strains with a high calyx-to-leaf ratio are:

SKUNK XL

Skunk XL is a balanced hybrid cultivar featuring 50% indica genetics and 50% sativa. Her large buds are dense with calyxes and appear snow-capped with glandular trichomes. The strain has a rich ancestry, descending from Colombian, Mexican, and Afghan landraces. She produces a stimulating effect that gradually becomes more stoning and sedating. On average, indoor plants yield 625g/m², whereas outdoor plants produce up to 675g/plant.

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OG KUSH

OG Kush is known far and wide for her stoning indica high and tantalising tastes of fruit and pine. She’s arguably the world’s most popular cultivar. Originating on the West Coast of the US, OG Kush is the progeny of parent strains Chemdawg, Lemon Thai, and Pakistani Kush. She produces large, narrow colas coated in sticky resin and loaded with calyxes. She’s a productive variety that delivers around 450g/m² indoors and 525g/plant outdoors.

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NORTHERN LIGHT

Northern Light is another legendary cultivar that sits firmly upon the pantheon of classics. The award-winning strain possesses 100% indica genetics and provides a deeply stoning effect that immediately renders the body at ease. Her tapered, calyx-loaded colas produce a THC content of 18% and medium levels of CBD. They offer sweet, fruity, and spicy tastes. Indoors, Northern Light will yield around 525g/m². Outdoor plants are capable of pumping out 625g/plant.

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LEMON SHINING SILVER HAZE

Lemon Shining Silver Haze is a stimulating and motivating sativa-dominant strain. Her energising and creative effects make her a popular choice in the coffeeshops of Amsterdam. She was created using parent strains Lemon Skunk and Shining Silver Haze. Her short and compact buds display an abundance of calyxes and emit a strong citrus aroma. She’s a productive variety, producing up to 475g/m² indoors. Outdoor plants offer a maximum harvest of 500g/plant.

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CRITICAL KUSH

Critical Kush was born by crossbreeding legendary strains Critical and OG Kush. The indica-dominant beast boasts a THC level of 20% and exerts a fast-acting body high that stimulates the appetite and promotes restful sleep. Her flowers are small and bulbous, and feature an outrageous calyx-to-leaf ratio. Indoors, Critical Kush yields approximately 525g/m². Outdoors, individual plants can produce up to 550g.

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[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

Royal Queen Seeds


Cannabis Trichomes Importance​

Everything you need to know about what makes your green sticky icky. Trichomes are the frost on your buds and the resin from which all your favourite Hash, BHO, Shatter and Wax are made. We zoom in on the importance of trichomes to cannabis plants, ganja farmers, and both medicinal and recreational users.

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WHAT ARE TRICHOMES?

The word trichome is derived from the Greek word “Tríchōma”, which translates as “growth of hair”. As they are microscopic, you really need to zoom in on the frosty blanket of resin, that coats high-grade cannabis buds to see the fields of trichomes, that resemble masses of stalks with tiny mushroom heads.

But be cautious, a big crowd of trichomes doesn’t guarantee the weed is “loud”. Merriam-Webster’s dictionary defines a trichome as “a filamentous outgrowth; especially: An epidermal hair structure on a plant”.

Botanical comparison of trichomes with hair can lead to confusion with the pistils, that are obviously visible to the naked eye as the hair-like strands protruding from calyxes of flowering female marijuana plants.

Cannabis trichomes deserve a more specific stoner-friendly definition, an explanation of their functions and overall importance.

We shall endeavour to bring you clarity. In our opinion, it’s best to consider trichomes as minuscule biological cannabinoid factories found predominantly on the flowers and sugar leaves of weed. Quite simply it’s the THC-rich trichomes, that get you high and the CBD-rich trichomes that make the best medicine.

The scientists have identified three categories of trichomes found on cannabis plants:

1. Bulbous trichomes
2. Capitate sessile trichomes
3. Capitate-stalked trichomes

It’s number 3, the capitate-stalked variety, that’s of interest to weed lovers because they are the largest at 50-100µm wide and produce the oily medicinal/recreational goodies.

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WHAT’S THE PURPOSE OF TRICHOMES?

In nature, it is believed, that trichomes facilitate quite a few essential to survival functions of the cannabis plant. The gooey surface coating of sticky resin provides a frontline defence against fungus, insects and hungry herbivores.

Some flies and certain fungi cannot penetrate the trichome barrier, while terpenes will foul the flavour of the lettuce for four-legged furry critters.

Furthermore, trichomes may also play a key role for cannabis growing in difficult climatic conditions. A layer of resin offers wild weed protection against damaging winds from the desert sirocco to the Siberian blizzard.

Trichomes even serve as organic sun block for marijuana plants, protecting them from the effects of UV rays from the sun. We shall explore the relationship between UV and trichomes a little further below.

WHY ARE TRICHOMES IMPORTANT TO THE CANNABIS CULTIVATOR?

We absolutely cannot emphasise the importance of trichomes to the cannabis cultivator enough. It’s a fact, the resin really is everything.

Trichomes are the tiny factories dedicated to the manufacture of cannabinoids and terpenes. Potency, flavour and odour are inextricably linked to the process going on in the cells of the mini-mushroom heads.

Cannabinoids are the compounds like THC and CBD, that give marijuana its mind and body effects respectively. Terpenes are “unsaturated hydrocarbons” or flavour makers, that give bud from different strains differing scents and tastes.

Trichomes are the microscopic super structures, that house the essence of the psychoactive properties of cannabis. They can also assist a grower when it comes to judging the optimal time to harvest your weed crop.

By monitoring the change in colour of the resin heads, either with a camera or microscope, the grower can best evaluate the ripeness of flowering female plants. In early to middle flowering, resin heads will be mostly clear.

During the final phase of the bloom cycle, the grower will observe the transitioning of the clear mushroom heads to a milky white colour and eventually to amber.

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Most seasoned growers will shoot for a blend of milky and amber trichomes as the precise moment to harvest. Sure, many other factors play a role when a grower is assessing the maturity of flowers, but we recommend you let the trichomes be your guide to preventing against harvesting too early or too late. Look out for those snow caps.

The relationship between trichomes and light is the key to understanding the immense importance of trichomes. UV light is what gives dank weed the X-factor.

Cannabis plants feed on light and when they receive the optimal spectrum they perform best. Old school outdoor cultivator’s anecdotes about HID cultivated indoor weed lacking sometimes in flavour and in potency have been confirmed by modern science.

Trichomes respond positively to UV rays and it is now believed, that UV light is required for the trichomes to produce certain terpenes and cannabinoids.

Modern LED lighting systems seem to be bridging the gap as they are specifically designed to emit the optimal spectrum of light for cannabis plants and they do it more efficiently than HID lights.

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FUN STUFF TO MAKE WITH TRICHOMES

At this point, you are probably already making the connection between trichomes and extracts and you’re absolutely right. OK, so we have confirmed, that a healthy coat of resin is responsible for the finer attributes of cannabis.

Trichomes are the building blocks of all kinds of wonderfully potent concentrates and hashish. Everything from the hand rubbed Charras of the Indian subcontinent to Colorado’s Charlotte’s Web CBD medicine comes from resin.

The method of extraction may vary from Moroccan sieving of plant material and then pressing, to butane gas derived hash oil, that can be whipped into “budder” on a low heat. The raw material is always trichomes and they can easily be separated from the green material.

Sometimes all too easily and not by intention, so remember to handle buds and colas with care, because resin heads are easily snapped off and dried bud can degrade rapidly if improperly stored. Concentrates have the additional huge benefit of an indefinite shelf life.

Trichomes are not everything when it comes to cannabis, but they definitely are the most important thing. The rise of dabbing amongst millennial stoners and the international legalisation of medicinal CBD products means trichomes have never been so important cannabis culture.

The Green Revolution is no longer tied to smoking sticky green. Knowledge of trichomes opens the doors to cannabis cuisine, awesome concentrates, tinctures, a plethora of medicines and new amazing discoveries yet to be made.

FLUSH YOUR PLANTS WITH ICE WATER TO BOOST TRICHOME PRODUCTION

Growers have reported an unlikely means of increasing trichome production—flushing plants with ice water. The more trichomes, the more terpenes and cannabinoids they’ll produce. This makes ice water a cheap and easy way to increase the potency and flavour of your harvest.

Flushing takes place in the final week or so of the flowering stage. Growers flush their plants to remove nutrient buildup and subsequently improve the taste of their buds. There’s no scientific evidence to prove that flushing with ice water simulates trichome production. However, some of the best growing tips and techniques are purely anecdotal.

One hypothesis suggests that the cold exposes plants to a beneficial form of stress. It’s also thought that lower temperatures prevent volatile terpenes from degrading during the last few days/weeks of flowering. We can’t promise it will work, but it’s surely worth a try!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020


By DrCannaCanadian​

Another great walk again - and this time, to one of my favourite stomping grounds!

We went to the Tiffin "Boat" Launch on a pretty chilly day. It was about -10°C (14°F) with enough of a wind chill to make our parkas and toques a pretty good investment.

The Tiffin "Boat" Launch is located at the South West corner of Kempenfelt Bay - at the boundary of Old Barrie and Old Alliston - right where the train station is. On the top right of the pic, you can see a part of the old train station.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 31, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

The Tiffin "Boat" Launch is located at the South West corner of Kempenfelt Bay - at the boundary...

Here we are looking East across Kempenfelt Bay - and one of these days we're going to need to capture on of our glorious sunrises.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 31, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

Here we are looking East across Kempenfelt Bay - and one of these days we're going to need to...

I like all the little tidbits of information about Barrie's past that are posted all along the trail. A few years ago you could go for 2 hour dinner & dance cruises, but unfortunately the steamboat is now in Toronto.

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 31, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

I like all the little tidbits of information about Barrie's past that are posted all along the...

This is my favourite bench. I love to just sit here sometimes and reflect on life in absolute peace - starry moon filled nights and sunrises are not something to be overlooked in life. The ellipticals are my other favourite - exercising for an hour overlooking the bay is way better than being stuck in a gym!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 31, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

This is my favourite bench. I love to just sit here sometimes and reflect on life in absolute...

And of course - the boat launch. We used to go out from here to the islands to swim and for dinner in Orilla - There's nothing like good memories with family and friends!

Barrie's Hello Winter 2020

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 31, 2020
• barrie's hello winter 2020

And of course - the boat launch. We used to go out from here to the islands to swim and for...

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks

By Royal Queen Seeds


The Perfect pH Value For A Cannabis Plant​

In the world of gardening, pH both affects and is affected by everything. Indeed, the entire process of growing plants is a study in the physical dance of pH balance.

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So, you are on your way to growing great cannabis. Your seeds have sprouted, and a small cannabis plant is now eagerly growing. You have spent good money on quality nutrients, and have made sure to properly water and feed your precious plant baby. But something is wrong; you notice your plant appears sick. The leaves are getting discoloured and growth has come to a standstill. Before you know it, your plant is withering away, and you’re stumped as to how this could’ve possibly happened.

Among fatal flaws like overwatering and overfeeding, pH imbalances are one of the most common issues in the cannabis garden. To understand why pH is so important, let us first understand the concept in and of itself.

WHAT IS PH?

pH is a measure of how acidic or alkaline something is. The pH scale ranges from 1–14, with a pH of 7 being neutral (the pH of pure water). If pH is lower than 7, a substance is considered acidic (think vinegar or lemon juice). If the pH is higher than 7, the substance is alkaline, as is the case with soaps, bleach, and ammonia.

In more scientific terms, pH level has to do with the concentration of hydrogen ions, say in the water you give to your plants. The pH scale is logarithmic to the base 10, which means that water with a pH of 6 is already 10x more acidic than water with a pH of 7.

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WHY IS PH IMPORTANT WHEN GROWING CANNABIS?

As you will already know, all plants require nutrients for healthy growth. They require macronutrients nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, as well as micronutrients and minerals including calcium, magnesium, iron, copper, and a whole lot more. If plants cannot access these nutrients, it will lead to deficiencies and other serious health problems.

The issue with cannabis plants is that they are only able to take up nutrients within a small pH window, which ranges from about 6–7 when growing in soil. If the pH is lower or higher than that, the plant cannot take in nutrients, even if they are present—thus spurring nutrient deficiencies via "nutrient lockout".

In those places where cannabis thrives in the wild, the soil is normally slightly acidic; therefore, homegrown cannabis plants will also prefer a slightly acidic environment. However, the way that you grow cannabis also plays a role in the optimal pH level for your plants. Cannabis grown hydroponically or without soil needs an even lower pH than a soil grow.

WHAT’S THE BEST PH FOR GROWING CANNABIS?SOIL: 6.0–7.0 pH

If you grow in soil, the optimal pH level for the root zone is between 6.0 and 7.0. However, there is no set number within this range that is “best”. Instead, it can be good to allow for some natural fluctuation within this window to support optimal nutrient uptake. So as you adjust, try a slightly different reading each time. You can, for example, adjust your pH to 6.2 for one watering, then 6.6 the next. As long as it stays within 6.0–7.0, you should be fine. Soil is also more forgiving when it comes to pH imbalances, but it can only give so much.

If you grow purely organically—where you do not administer liquid nutrients—pH is less of an issue. If you’re using amended and composted soil with organic matter, the microorganisms within will make the nutrients more available to the roots. However, most growers using standard potting mixes and liquid nutrients will indeed have to reckon with pH.

HYDROPONICS AND SOILLESS: 5.5–6.5 pH

Hydro and soilless grows are a different beast when it comes to pH. If you grow soilless, say in coco, the optimal pH level at the root zone should be somewhat lower than in soil, between 5.5–6.5. The same goes for all methods of hydro.

With these methods, it is just as important that you allow the pH level to fluctuate across the acceptable range to support nutrient uptake. For example, in hydro, calcium and magnesium are mostly absorbed at pH levels above 6, while other nutrients like manganese prefer a slightly lower pH.

Then again, this shouldn't be an issue since pH levels will naturally change slightly with each feeding in a hydroponic setup. You will only need to correct if the pH level exits the optimal 5.5–6.5 pH range.

When growing in coco, perlite, or hydroponically, you are in charge of administering nutrients directly to the root zone via the water, which means that huge pH fluctuations are more of a risk than in soil. The inert media used in hydro and soilless grows merely retains water and provides support for the roots of your plants. So when administering nutrients, be careful that you don’t overload your plants.

HOW TO TEST PH

Managing pH level means testing the water or nutrient solution and adjusting it accordingly. This may sound complicated, but it really isn’t.

To test pH, you can use a digital pH meter, or a pH measurement kit with drops. Opinions here differ as to which method is “best”. Some prefer digital pH meters because they are accurate and easy to read, while others like the drops as they are super simple and don’t require calibration. Try them both and see which you prefer.

Measure the pH after you add any nutrients or amendments as they will change the pH value of your water. After you mix the solution, use the pH meter or drops to test the pH level. If you are growing hydroponically, test a sample from your water reservoir a few minutes after you add your nutrients.

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HOW TO ADJUST PH

If the pH is out of the optimal range for your growing setup, it’s crucial you correct it. This can be done using “pH up” and “pH down” products, which you can obtain at any grow store. If your pH is too high, you will of course need to add some pH down, and vice versa.

Given the alkalinity of most tap water, most of the time you will probably need to lower your pH as opposed to raising it. This means you could potentially get by with just a bottle of pH down. Note that you will normally need very small amounts of these pH-adjusting products to see results. Add the required amount and then test your water with the meter or drops. When everything is in the clear, you can feed your plants.

Also keep in mind that changes in season and other factors affect the pH of your tap water. This means you shouldn’t assume that your nutrient solution is consistent with every feeding; instead, check it occasionally to make sure things are still as they should be.

 

[GardeningGnome]

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update

Vegetation - Day 17
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Hello 420!

Always keep in mind, our ultimate goal is to have "MY harvest be the best I can possibly grow!".

That's right! I want you all to say "MY Harvest is going to be a Maximum Yield Harvest!".

And just remember, there are literally hundreds of things we can check for in the first few weeks of vegetation growth as we begin training our plants.

Dagobah Frost Forest - MY Quick Daily Checklist

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• my quick daily checklist

New Growth is Lime green
Fan Leaves are Verdant green
Lower fan leaves are raised up off of the...

So, here's a quick checklist of some of the items we must check for daily:

• New Growth is Lime green
• Fan Leaves are Verdant green
• Lower fan leaves are raised up off of the soil/medium
• Main Stem is straight
• Wire-to-Stem connections are firm (not pinching)
• Internode spacing is even
• Stem & branch angle at least 15° above horizontal
• Growth nodes exposed to air & light

New Growth is Lime Green
Lime Green for new growth is typically the sign of a healthy plant.

Fan Leaves are Verdant Green
This is very important! Fan leaves give huge clues to the health of our plants because they are major factories! Typically light green means too little nutes and dark green means too much nutes. Adjust your feed strength accordingly.

Lower Fan Leaves are Raised Up Off of the Soil/Medium
A fan leaf touching the soil may begin to rot; and if the fan leaf starts to rot, then it is susceptible to disease which can quickly spread across the entire plant.

Main Stem is Straight
A straight main stem can efficiently transport water up and down the plant. It is also much better at supporting the weight of its side branches.

Wire-to-Stem Connections are Firm
We want the LST connections to hold the branch, and not restrict water transport via pinching or slip. Check connections daily because stems will widen in girth and become pinched off, thereby stunting growth.

Internode Spacing is Even
I will do a Tips & Tricks post on this topic because it so vast and so important. Essentially though, we can control this variable by adjusting the height of our grow light above the plant canopy.

Stem & Branch Angle At Least 15° Above Horizontal
If a branch angle is lowered, then the plant does not send as many growth hormones to that branch, thereby stunting the branch's growth. As a plant grows upwards, and a branch is tied down, then the branch will get fewer and fewer nutrients. Another good reason to check your LST connections daily!

Growth Nodes Exposed to Air & Light
The recipe for successful LST! This is critical!



The LST on Princess Leia & Obi-Wan Kenobi is working well.

Emperor Sidius & Darth Maul were tansplanted into their final 5 gallon (20 litre) fabric pots of coco/perlite. Their LST training will most likely begin tomorrow.

Chewbacca & Han Solo are recovering slowly over in IC (Intensive Care).

The light is now positioned 54" (137 cm) above canopy and the LUX has been checked.



Just a quick update on the weight of the solo cups of soil we watered two days.

Dry Chewbacca Day 0: 190.3g
Wet Chewbacca Day 0: 313.4g
Wet Chewbacca Day 1: 229.7g
Wet Chewbacca Day 2: 194.1g

*** Chewbacca has a 2 day wet/dry cycle.

Dry Han Solo Day 0: 200.6 g
Wet Han Solo Day 0: 358.3g
Wet Han Solo Day 1: 252.8g
Wet Han Solo Day 2: 213.6g

*** Han Solo has a 2 day wet/dry cycle.


And here they are, in sickness and in health - MY Harvest becoming Maximum Yield under the expedient care of Mars Hydro:

Dagobah Frost Forest - Group Photo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Group Photo - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Princess Leia

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Obi-Wan Kenobi

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Emperor Sidious

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Darth Maul

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Rey

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Chewbacca

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman

Chemdawg - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 17

Dagobah Frost Forest - Han Solo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 28, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman

Chemdawg - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 17

I love your attention to details @DrCannaCanadian !!
The pictures of Lea and Obi-Wan, how you utilize the wires and "in coco stronghold" and hook down the leaves are brilliant. And you are doing it at an early stage.... I'll be copying that...

It's nice that someone else is naming their plants. I've settled for goddesses names this time; the first two Gorilla Glue ladies are called "Hera" and "Freja".

I wish you a lovely weekend!!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

I love your attention to details @DrCannaCanadian !!
The pictures of Lea and Obi-Wan, how you utilize the wires and "in coco stronghold" and hook down the leaves are brilliant. And you are doing it at an early stage.... I'll be copying that...

It's nice that someone else is naming their plants. I've settled for goddesses names this time; the first two Gorilla Glue ladies are called "Hera" and "Freja".

I wish you a lovely weekend!!

Hi @GardeningGnome , it's great to see you again!!!

I am doing my best to pay attention to details so I can pass this information on to others - I remember being so confused and overwhelmed in my first grow - especially with LST lol

Oh, yes - I tend to start LST as soon as they have two or three sets of leaves. Actually, that might make for a great tutorial - thanks for the idea!

Gorilla Glue is a strain I really, really want to grow - and Columbian Gold - and, and, and lol

We're going to Barrie's Winterfest this weekend - so it's going to be awesome!

I hope you guys have a great weekend too!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds

How To Use And Calibrate Your Cannabis pH Meter​

Making sure your plants are growing in the optimal environment is a crucial step to achieving optimal bud yield. This starts with maintaining proper pH levels. By correctly using and calibrating a pH meter, you can help set your plants up for success throughout every stage of growth.

​

Growing cannabis is an art form; but first, it is a science. Your growing babies need exactly the right environment to flourish. This starts with the right chemical composition of both the soil and water that surrounds them.

Because of soil contaminants and chemicals added to water for public safety, the basic bedrocks of your cannafarming might not be quite right. Cannabis is very sensitive to such disturbances in composition. As a result, you will have to use pH meters to determine if your growing environment is appropriate. Furthermore, you will continue to test the plant throughout its stages of growth.

The pH level is what you are testing. pH affects a plant’s ability to transport its own nutrients and carbohydrates. Cannabis thrives at a pH of around 6.5 (more on that later). Your job is to keep your grow medium and water within a desirable range.

​

WHY POOR SOIL AND WATER PH CAN AFFECT YOUR PLANTS

Soil and water pH variations can stress the plant. Simple.

And even if your soil pH is on-point, but your water pH is off, the whole operation will be derailed. Water is absorbed into a growing plant, travelling up the stem into the leaves. Here, it evaporates. Water is exchanged for carbon dioxide, where CO₂ works with light to create vital sugars for the plant to grow.

This is the process of photosynthesis.

However, if your soil and/or water is the wrong pH, photosynthesis will be less efficient. This equates to less-than-optimal plant growth and performance. For the cultivator, it also means lower quantities of harvestable bud.

The other important piece to consider is that growing without soil requires a different pH. Therefore, your pH meter will have to be adjusted. Ideal soil pH ranges between 6.0 and 7.0. Using alternative grow mediums (like coco) or hydroponics will change the desired range to 5.5-6.5.

That is why learning to use and calibrate a pH meter is so critical.

USING A PH METER

The quickest way to ensure your soil and water is the correct pH is to use a meter. And most are easy to use. Just swirl them around in the water or stick them in the soil you want to test. The problem is that they often become uncalibrated. You will have to recalibrate your meter frequently.

Here are a few basics on how to calibrate your device. Depending on whether you are using a “pen” or a manual probe, the calibration instructions will be slightly different. Essentially, you are making sure that your device reads the surrounding pH range properly.

1. Read the instructions of the device you are using. This first, most important step, is the main reason that pH testers “fail.”
2. Calibrate frequently.
3. Use gloves at all times when testing and calibrating. Your body chemistry can affect readings.
4. Pour a small amount of calibration solution into separate containers. This solution can either be bought commercially or you can use a substance with a known pH. Commercial solutions will include a range of pH tests. For example, a calibration kit might include a 4pH, 7pH, and a 10pH solution.
5. Clean the probe and always use fresh calibration solution.
6. Submerge the probe into the first pH solution to calibrate.
7. Clean the probe after the first solution and test two more times.
8. With a calibrated meter, now stick the test probe into the medium or water you are testing.
9. Read the meter.
10. Adjust the pH accordingly if out of range.

OTHER TIPS

There are a few tried and true rules for making sure your calibrations are accurate.

1. Use the right pH buffers. pH meters work best when calibrated slightly above and below the range you want to test for.
2. Learn what can quickly adjust the chemical composition up and down. For example, adding garden lime can make water and soil more alkaline. White vinegar can make both more acidic.
3. Flush your plants with corrected water if out of pH range. This will also help correct the pH of the soil itself.
4. Sanitary conditions when testing are critical. Always use fresh buffer test liquid. Your meter must also be clean. Contamination of either will affect readings.
5. Proper storage is essential. All pH meters contain a pH electrode, which is very sensitive. If it is damaged, it will not give you an accurate reading.

 

[GardeningGnome]

Hi @GardeningGnome , it's great to see you again!!!

I am doing my best to pay attention to details so I can pass this information on to others - I remember being so confused and overwhelmed in my first grow - especially with LST lol

Oh, yes - I tend to start LST as soon as they have two or three sets of leaves. Actually, that might make for a great tutorial - thanks for the idea!

Gorilla Glue is a strain I really, really want to grow - and Columbian Gold - and, and, and lol

We're going to Barrie's Winterfest this weekend - so it's going to be awesome!

I hope you guys have a great weekend too!

Nice!! Was a bit worried that I was doing to early. I usually start with LTS as soon as my fingers can get between the leaves and bend.

AND, dear sir; I've actually already implemented your genius LTS idea, but with a twist....
I used a similar contraption to make sure my stem is kept upright. It was tilting after my repotting and needed a helping hand for now. Photo?

 

[nivek]

i like the pics of yer 'hood',, nice to see the country thru others eyes,,

a wee bit o okanagan

and as for your info postings,, tho i do not read them all the way thru,, i do appreciate and peruse them for sure,, have increased my knowledge quite a bit

thanks for the read,,

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Nice!! Was a bit worried that I was doing to early. I usually start with LTS as soon as my fingers can get between the leaves and bend.

AND, dear sir; I've actually already implemented your genius LTS idea, but with a twist....
I used a similar contraption to make sure my stem is kept upright. It was tilting after my repotting and needed a helping hand for now. Photo?

A photo? Yes please! And I'll be sure to give you credit when I'm answering questions over in the FAQ section!

Actually I have one plant, Rey - a Tangie Cookies, growing slower and straighter in soil - she doesn't need any LST yet.

Yet the other plant, Emperor Sidius - a Tangie Cookies, growing quicker and leaning in coco - he needed LST early.

My deciding factor is this: "Am I able to see the growth nodes when looking straight down on the plant."

This is because it is critical to expose growth nodes (new branches) to light and air.

Basic LST

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 25, 2020
• drcannacanadian

We gently pull back the fan leaves using a coated wire. Notice how we are keeping the primary...

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

i like the pics of yer 'hood',, nice to see the country thru others eyes,,

a wee bit o okanagan​

and as for your info postings,, tho i do not read them all the way thru,, i do appreciate and peruse them for sure,, have increased my knowledge quite a bit

thanks for the read,,

Hey @nivek - I love it!

I am interested in cannabis - but I've found that it's the people, places and memories in life that add real value to living!

Nicely landscaped back yard and the rolling hills in the background - simply beautiful!

How are the sunrises and sunsets from your back porch?

Hey! If you're out and about, and post some photos of Okanagan - I'd love to see them - especially the lake!

Read what you can when you can, and always be quick to ask a question on the FAQs!

 

[GardeningGnome]

A photo? Yes please! And I'll be sure to give you credit when I'm answering questions over in the FAQ section!

Actually I have one plant, Rey - a Tangie Cookies, growing slower and straighter in soil - she doesn't need any LST yet.

Yet the other plant, Emperor Sidius - a Tangie Cookies, growing quicker and leaning in coco - he needed LST early.

My deciding factor is this: "Am I able to see the growth nodes when looking straight down on the plant."

This is because it is critical to expose growth nodes (new branches) to light and air.

Basic LST

• DrCannaCanadian
• Jan 25, 2020
• drcannacanadian

We gently pull back the fan leaves using a coated wire. Notice how we are keeping the primary...

So here are some quick photos. Let me snap some better ones tomorrow.

As you can see, the whole top segment is still tilting a bit (looks a bit wonky) since the whole plant has been slouching during the last couple of days before the repotting.
It is now (thanks to the idea you gave me) it has begun to shift back to a straight and upright state.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

My Growing Experiences


By DrCannaCanadian


A Modern Perspective On An Old Practice

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go"

​

All too often we are seeing questions being asked on the old practice of Flushing in the FAQ section here at 420 Magazine. While the reasons for Flushing may have changes, the benefits have not. So, to help our growers, we have come up with the snappy slogan "Flush & Feed - All In One Go".

​

It is very important to understand that Flushing does not remove unwanted chemicals from your buds. The break down of harsh chemicals, like chlorophyll, is done during the drying and curing stage after harvest by aerobic bacteria.

I think a great place to begin is with some definitions:

Flushing a plant means to run at least '3 times the pot size' of non pHed water through your medium. For example, if we have a 10 gallon (40 litres) fabric pot, then we will run at least 30 gallons (120 litres) of non-pHed water through the pot.

Note: For simplicity, we are using 1 gallon = 4 litres.

Feeding means to give your plant a normal EC strength nutrient solution at a pH of 6.5 for soil and a pH of 5.8 for coco. For example, we will mix up a 1.5 gallon (6 litre) nutrient solution having an EC of 1.8 during flower and then pH it to 6.5 for soil and to 5.8 for coco.

​

Note: We are using EC instead of ppm to measure nutrient strength because EC is the accepted universal measurement for nutrient solutions.

​

We choose to Flush with non pHed water for simplicity. We have found it is just too tedious and costly for the home grower to pH 30 gallons (120 litres) of water for a 10 gallon (40 litres) pot.

We then choose to Feed immediately after the Flush. Doing so introduces the correct EC and pH back into the medium.
If we just Flush without doing the Feed, then our medium's osmotic pressure and our medium's pH will be too far from the norm. This will of course lead to problems in the root zone, which is the exact opposite of what we are trying to accomplish.

So, when should we use our "Flush & Feed - All In One Go" strategy?

We can choose to Flush & Feed about every 4 weeks as a preventative measure to eliminate salt build up and accumulated debris in our medium. That is, when using salt based nutrients, we find that these salts will begin to accumulate over time.

This accumulation of unwanted salts and debris then leads to unhealthy osmotic pressure, an unhealthy impact on your microlife, and an unhealthy pH drift (more acidic) of the medium in the root zone.

Note: The more alkaline your water, the quicker the pH drift will be in your medium.

As an aside, if you are feeding in coco multiple times every day with 10% runoff, then you will rarely need to Flush & Feed your plants - because you are effectively doing it every day.

We can also choose to Flush & Feed when we suspect things like "nutrient lockout", "medium pH drift" etc.


Alright, let's put our "Flush & Feed - All In One Go" strategy into practice.

In the following real world example, we suspected our reconditioned 10 gallon (40 litre) pots of soil were 'too hot'. That is, our HSO Chemdawg seedlings were not performing well in the solo cups of the same soil and almost died!

Step 1: We remove the 10 gallon (40 litre) pots of medium, the pot caddy, and the drip tray from our garden. This gives us an excellent opportunity to clean the floor our grow space. We never want a dirty environment attracting pests and allowing unhealthy bacteria, mould and fungus to grow!

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 1

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

We remove the 10 gallon (40 litre) pots of soil, the pot caddy, and the drip tray from our...

Step 2: If we have a 30 gallon (120 litre) bucket, or if want to measure out 10 x 3 gallon (12 litre) buckets of water then fine. Otherwise we can use the tub and a shower head to work our magic. In this case, we elected to calculate the flow rate of water out of our shower head.

We set the water flow at a rate which filled a 1 quart (1 litre) container in 10 seconds. Now the math. We need 30 gallons (120 litres) of water, so we need (120 litres x 10 seconds/litre) ÷ (1 minute/60 seconds) = 20 minutes. Flushing large pots of soil properly can be tedious and time consuming!

Note: Run the water at a flow rate which will not overflow your pot.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 2

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

If we have a 30 gallon (120 litre) bucket, or if want to measure out 10 x 3 gallon (12 litre)...

Step 3: Clean your tub and shower head because there is a lot of unwanted bacteria in the bathroom. Then put the pot of medium on top of a pot caddy in the tub.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 3

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

Clean your tub and shower head because there is a lot of unwanted bacteria in the bathroom...

Step 4: Start Flushing your medium.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 4

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

Start Flushing your medium.

Step 5: We recommend using a quality pH Down product to set the pH of your Feed.

Note: If you use vinegar, it may attract pests.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 5

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

We recommend using a quality pH Down product to set the pH of your Feed.

Step 6: Mix up a regular batch of Feed (nutrient solution) at the correct EC strength for your plant. Use the pH Down product to set your Feed to pH 6.5 for soil or to pH 5.8 for coco.

Note: Do not submerge the pH pen below the dotted line or you will damage it.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 6a

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

Mix up a regular batch of Feed (nutrient solution) at the correct EC strength for your plant.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 6b

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

Use the pH Down product to set your Feed to pH 6.5 for soil or to pH 5.8 for coco.

Step 7: Feed your plant with your nutrient solution set to the correct EC and pH values.

"Flush & Feed - All In One Go" - Step 7

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• flush & feed - all in one go modern cannabis flushing my growing experiences

Feed your plant with your nutrient solution set to the correct EC and pH values.

Step 7: If you have a cat - close the bathroom door or kitty may eat your plants or even use the pot as a litter basket!

Well, we hope our "Flush & Feed - All In One Go" strategy helps you to appreciate a more modern take on the old practice of Flushing and when/why we choose to do it.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds

Cannabis & Water Quality Part 1: pH​

Good quality water is a foundation of a great cannabis grow. Understanding some of the finer points about water, and how it can affect your cannabis can help take things to all new heights.

​

Water quality is an often overlooked aspect of cannabis growing. It can be responsible for so many problems, including those dealing with nutrients. We know how tempting it is to reach for the nutrient troubleshooting sheets and feed your plants more. Put those bottles down, stop scratching your head, don't panic and ask yourself this back to basics question. "Have I checked my water quality lately?"

In part one of our guide on water quality, we look at why water is important, and how pH affects a grow.

WATER & CANNABIS

All life on earth is dependent on it. We are all made mostly of water. Even the surface of the earth is more water than land. Cannabis is ninety percent water and uses it in a number of ways to live and grow.

Water transports nutrients, gives the plant its stiffness and lushness or "turgor," and plays a major part in photosynthesis. During the day, water travels up the stem to the leaves where it evaporates through tiny holes called stomata and is then exchanged for carbon dioxide. This is called transpiration. The exchanged carbon dioxide is then used to in combination with light to create sugars which are the plant’s food; this is called photosynthesis.

​

HOW POOR WATER QUALITY AFFECTS CANNABIS

This little lesson in biology is all well and good, but what does it have to do with poor water quality? Poor water quality means these processes can't function properly and the result is a lot less bud for you. So indoor or outdoor, water quality is very, very important.

Many problems stemming from water inconsistencies can mimic other issues that can affect the cannabis plant. Aside from over or under-watering, this can include symptoms of over or under fertilisation, or even heat stress, and it is usually only the experienced grower that can tell the differences at a glance.

So before you go playing with the intricate witches brew that makes up most nutrients, do one simple thing. Check your water.

PH

The first factor to look at is pH. pH affects a cannabis plant’s ability to transport nutrients and carbohydrates. The symptoms of either too high pH or too low pH are very similar and can be confused with a number of nutrient problems - the solution to which can have you chasing your tail for weeks searching for an answer. It could just be a wonky pH affecting your ladies’ ability to transport nutrients. We have seen plants with several different symptoms simultaneously and the troublemaker turned out to be bad water pH.

Cannabis thrives at a pH that hovers around 6.5. A little higher or a little lower is okay; in fact, some indicas enjoy a low 6.2, but you can’t go wrong keeping it at 6.5. Modern growing techniques will have you flushing your plants often enough to avoid much pH fluctuation in your growing medium due to nutrient build up, so pay good attention to your water and you can't go wrong.

Checking your pH is as easy as swishing a pH metre around in your water runoff sample.

There are as many pH testing products as there are serrations on a sativa leaf. Let your budget decide whether you buy a simple analogue probe or a more expensive digital one - with all the bells and whistles.

These metres don't require any calibration and are ready to go straight out of the box. Just remember to test your runoff water, as this is the correct reading of what your plants are getting at the root system, and adjust at the top end to suit.

If you are doing DWC (hydroponics), regularly check your reservoir or top tanks, as pH can alter as nutrient solution levels fluctuate.

ADJUSTING PH

Altering pH used to be a delicate process, put it has become much easier with the introduction of specific cannabis pH kits to the market. There are even a few kits that adjust pH automatically!

Some old-school hacks we like to use to adjust water pH:

pH up - to make water more alkaline, dissolve garden lime in your water. Take it easy until you find the amount that works for you per litre.

pH down - to make water more acidic, use white vinegar. What? I hear you scream, vinegar! But for real, it works a treat.

While correcting pH, it is a good time to flush your plants out with some of your newly corrected water, helping bring the soil to level.

It is a good idea to do this with oxygenated water prior to the lights going off, giving the plants a night time boost that mimics nature. Taking oxygen in at the roots and creating more root mass.

​

Outdoor growers and indoor soil growers have an advantage when it comes to pH. They have a greater margin of error. The colonies of microorganisms that form in organic growing matter act as buffers and filters and help keep pH between 6.5 and 7 most of the time.

Nutrient build up isn't usually a problem when growing organically outdoors either, as rain is the great neutralizer and thieving cannabis trees tend to gobble so much food you usually end up having to supplement the soil anyway.

This doesn't mean you should be complacent. Although you would need to have some kind of toxic event in your water source to have pH problems outdoors, it can happen. We have seen growers being caught out and suffering as a result.

The moral of the story is always take the time to check on your pH; it is simple to test and easy to rectify when wrong, but it can cause all sorts of havoc if left alone. Don't get lazy. Check your pH.

In our next article on water quality, we will look at the importance of PPM and EC.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds

Cannabis & Water Quality Part 2: PPM & EC​

Getting to grips with water quality is a factor that can distinguish between a novice and a veteran hobby cannabis grower. Here is part two of our guide, focusing on PPM and the EC of your water.

​

Water is a foundation of life. This is no less true for cannabis, which relies on water for a whole array of functions. In our previous blog on water quality, we assessed why water is important, and how pH can affect many aspects of your grow. Today we are going into a bit more detail with ppm and EC. Both are more advanced aspects of cannabis growing that need to be taken into account, and getting your head around it will help push your skills to the max. For the novice, while important, this information is not essential to grow. It is still possible to get great results without it, but it will certainly help!

PPM & EC

Don't be daunted by these technical-sounding terms. Parts Per Million and Electrical Conductivity are two ways of saying the practically same thing. Now, we could get really technical really fast here in comparing ppm and EC, but for the sake of clarity, let's stick to ppm for the moment.

PPM is a way of measuring the amount of minerals already dissolved in your water, and varies from source to source and place to place. For example, if you have a ppm reading of 100 there are 100 milligrammes per litre of minerals already in your water. Although this is a microscopic amount, the canny cannabis grower knows that plants can only absorb a limited amount of nutrients per day and adjusting for ppm helps get the most from your crops.

Knowing your ppm helps you avoid possible burning by letting you know when to adjust the amount of nutrient minerals you add to your water. Cannabis enjoys 500-600 ppm after cloning, 800-900 ppm when vegetating, and 1000-1100 ppm when flowering. So knowing the mineral content of your water before mixing your nutes can avoid stressing you and your plants. For DWC (hydroponic) growers, it is important to know the condition of the reservoir water, as minerals can deplete as the water level drops - it is a heads-up for you to just top things up as required.

There are many probes, devices and metres on the market all able to measure ppm. The most common is a TDS metre (total dissolved solids). What you go for really depends on your budget, and desire to get technical and nerdy with your grow. Most have a range of 3500, which is all you will ever need for cannabis, but if you like the overkill some will read up to 9999.

Once you have calibrated your TDS metre, turn it on, make sure it is reading zero and put it in the water you want to test – hey presto, there's your ppm reading. If you are using reverse osmosis water, the reading will be 0 to 10 ppm as it is completely free of minerals.

If you use tap water, your reading should be between 50 and 300 ppm here in the EU as standard.

If your town’s plumbing is old, or you are using well water from limestone strata, you may get a reading of up to 500 to 700ppm because of the mineral build up.

If your water is reading over 500 ppm, you need to do something about it, as it will compete with and lock out the nutrients you actually want your cannabis to uptake. Either you need to get some nutes designed to be used in hard-water areas, or you need to treat your water at home, either through carbon filters, distillation, or reverse osmosis.

GETTING TECHNICAL WITH EC & PPM

Strap your brains in bitches; this is where things get technical.

EC, or Electrical Conductivity, is a measure of the salinity of a water sample.

The theory being that saline water is charged with sodium ions and this charge can be measured by an EC metre, which tells you the conductivity of your water sample - in microsiemens per centimetre. EC works by assuming an ionic conductivity of sodium as .51 microsiemens per centimetre. This is the base charge off which metres calculate conductivity.

If your water is too saline, it can affect your plants in two ways. It can increase the toxicity of sodium at the root ball and increase osmotic pressure at the roots inhibiting nutrient uptake.

PPM measures the overall mineral content of your water, regardless of what those minerals are.

Accurate ppm readings are obtained by gently evaporating the water sample and analysing the remaining residue. Other than sodium chloride most other minerals are hardly present in nearly all naturally occurring water and are not of any real worry. These minerals are usually trace amounts of calcium carbonate, magnesium and micro traces of several other elements.

If you approach your local water authority, they can usually supply you with a mineral analysis of your local water supply.

There are conversions for microsiemens per centimetre to parts per million and back again but most metres do these conversions for you.

Organic soil and outdoor growers have an advantage again when it comes to ppm and EC. The microorganisms provide a buffer that helps protect the plant from fluctuations in ppm or EC and there is a greater margin for error when watering.

Never be complacent, though. Always check your water quality, even from rivers and creeks. You never know what could be washed in upstream during rain that could make your water toxic.

​

EXTRA WATER QUALITY TIPS

Who thinks rain water is neutral? It is a common misconception and is actually mildly acidic. Carbon dioxide dissolves in rain and makes it into a very mild carbolic acid with a pH of about 5.6. Don't worry, though, once it has sat for a while in a tank or dam or reservoir it releases the carbon dioxide and balances out at 7. Ever noticed how plants grow like mad after rain? That’s why.

When you put your water through a reverse osmosis filter, it makes your water completely mineral free. Never use this water unmodified to flush your plants or as a foliage spray. RO water will strip nutrients from your plants, especially calcium and magnesium. Label your bottles clearly.

Put aerators on your faucets. If filling a container with a hose, make the water froth and bubble to enliven and oxygenate.

In cold climates try and keep your water at 25°C.

There you have it! Things get quite technical, so don’t worry if it takes a while to pick up. Actively working to ensure you have the best water quality you can will help minimise any potential growing problems, as well as give your cannabis what it needs to thrive. The more you know!

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Daily Tips & Tricks


By Royal Queen Seeds

Cannabis And Water Quality Part 3: Choosing A Water Source​

Choosing a water source is a crucial decision when it comes to growing marijuana. Certain water sources like rainwater and water filtration systems can provide pure and uncontaminated water, though at a price. However, feeding cannabis plants distilled or tap water may not be the worst thing for them either.

​

With the complexity of modern growing techniques, the quality of your water is a factor that is easy to overlook. Yet, water is a crucial building block of life, for both plants and humans.

In cannabis plants, clean water is responsible for transporting nutrients, triggering transpiration, and making photosynthesis work. However, choosing the right water source for your plants can be tricky, especially if you are growing on a budget.

WHAT TO CONSIDER WHEN SOURCING WATER

High-quality water is a crucial ingredient in producing high-quality cannabis. Relying on low-quality water could seriously hamper your plant’s health and its ability to produce excellent buds.

Aside from water quality itself, growers must also consider their budget and willingness to spend on this resource. Apart from the upfront costs of setting up and establishing certain kinds of water sources, there are also the long-term costs of keeping the water flowing. Moreover, certain water sources may be more time-consuming and burdensome to operate than others.

The water source you choose will undoubtedly affect the quality of the water being fed to your cannabis plants. While there are numerous ways to obtain water for your plants, some are much more costly or time-consuming than others.

Beginning with the most expensive, here are 4 water sources you should consider using for your cannabis grow.

WATER FILTRATION SYSTEMS

If money is no concern, then water filtration systems are the way to go. There are numerous filtration systems available, however, cannabis growers usually opt for an RO (reverse osmosis) system. These systems work by forcing water molecules through a semipermeable membrane and filtering out contaminants in the process.

The primary advantage of a water filtration system is having an unlimited supply of clean water on hand. Furthermore, RO systems are generally considered to be the safest and purest choice for large-scale water filtration. Despite this, the initial startup cost of establishing such a system tends to scare most growers away. Even the most basic RO system can cost several hundreds of dollars to purchase.

RAINWATER/WATER COLLECTION SYSTEMS

Rainwater is widely considered to be clean and pure, making it especially great for hydroponics. However, thanks to modern pollution, rainwater may not actually be as clean as most people would like to think. Moreover, collecting and using it can be quite a hassle.

Rainwater is typically collected using a water collection system. Raincatchers vary in build, size, and shape. While some may be more costly and difficult to assemble and operate, others can be built at home using commonly available materials. Furthermore, most of these systems can be maintained with very little time and effort.

Some water filtration systems can even be modified to collect recycled and uncontaminated “gray water” from other local sources. However, some jurisdictions have decided to either prohibit or limit the collection of rain or gray water. As such, it is best to make sure that collecting rainwater is actually legal in your jurisdiction before investing in a collection system.

The key to safely growing with rainwater is, like tap water, testing it before use. Adjustments to pH levels and mineral content may be necessary.

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DISTILLED BOTTLED WATER

Distilled water is a great source of pure and uncontaminated water. Especially for small grows. Unlike tap water, you can rest assured that distilled water will not require any extra filtering. Bottles of distilled water can typically be purchased from local grocery stores, or can even be delivered to your home in some areas.

However, while one bottle may seem relatively inexpensive, the cost certainly does add up over time. Additionally, some growers argue that filtered tap water can be just as pure. Therefore, distilled water may not be ideal for large gardens or for growers on a tight budget.

UNFILTERED TAP WATER

Unfiltered tap water is one of the most readily available water sources for marijuana growers. It is relatively inexpensive and very easy to get. And, despite popular opinion, it’s not actually all that bad for your plants.

However, the quality of tap water differs in each municipality. You may find that tap water in some areas contains more contaminants than in others. Chlorine, magnesium, and calcium are all commonly found in tap water, to varying degrees. Too much of these won’t kill your plants, but they can seriously affect its biological activity.

You should always test your tap water before use. Not only will you find out exactly what is inside of it, but you may be able to devise a filtration strategy. For instance, chlorine tends to evaporate naturally if left to sit in water for 24 hours. Meanwhile, chloramines can be filtered out with an activated charcoal filter, and fluoride can be filtered out using an activated alumina filter.

 

[DrCannaCanadian]

Dagobah Frost Forest
Update


Vegetation - Day 21​

Hello 420!

Some good news in the garden today!

The Seedsman Peyote WiFi are definitely going to get cloned - I love how these two phenos are presenting! They are growing quickly with nice even internode spacing and they no longer need any LST. They have six nodes, so I figure in about a week I will start topping them.

The Seedsman website recommends this:

When grown indoors it is recommended to give these plants a vegetative growth period of between 15 - 25 days before switching to a 12/12 lighting schedule to induce flowering which takes a further 75 days.

I don't think so! I think we'll be letting these plants go for at least 3 more weeks. If I need to move them into their own tent to finish - then fine! But pampered they will be lol

The two Tangie Cookies growing in coco are growing quickly, so they need help exposing their growth nodes with a bit of LST.

The Tangie Cookies in soil is doing well and does not need ant LST. We expect our soil plants to grow a bit slower than their coco friends.

Both HSO Chemdawgs have survived!!!

I am hoping our "Flush & Feed - All In One Go" strategy today will really help both HSO Chemdawgs to grow better when I transplant them in a few days.

Note To Self: Remember to use Great White Mycorrhizae when transplanting plants in soil!

Also, the next soil feed will be a cocktail of Advanced Nutrients Root Mass Expanders: Voodoo Juice, Piranha, Tarantula & CarboLoad.

Honestly though, I really want to start using GLN MegaCrop sooner than later! But I still have at least 4 weeks of Veg left before I flip to 12-12.

Oh, and I'll be joining @ProfessorFlora in his "Hang 10" with my "Odd Couple" which is a "Dirty Dozen" I suppose

For our composition today, we went with leaning to left - it's weird and different - and different is okay!

Alright, and here they are - all finally happy and healthy - and getting their 18 hours of Mars Hydro love:

Dagobah Frost Forest - Group Photo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Group Photo - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Princess Leia

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Obi-Wan Kenobi

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• mars hydro peyote wifi royal queen seeds seedsman

Peyote WiFi - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Emperor Sidius

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Darth Maul

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Coco/Perlite - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Rey

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman tangie cookies

Tangie Cookies - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Chewbacca

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman

Chemdawg - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 21

Dagobah Frost Forest - Han Solo

• DrCannaCanadian
• Feb 1, 2020
• chemdawg mars hydro royal queen seeds seedsman

Chemdawg - Fox Farm Ocean Forest Soil - Veg Day 21

 

[ProfessorFlora]

Hey Dr C! I'm loving the work you put into your posts. I love Star Trek!

Will you be using a fabric pot for your 2 Chems in the shared container?

That cat looks like mine! lol