Does this look normal? Martian Candy OG

I don't do coco so my advice may miss the mark for you, but...
The "finger in the soil" method is not a good way to tell if a plant needs water. In fact, I think it a really bad way to test. Pick up a pot with your soil(less) mix in it that has never been watered. Feel how light it is. That is m/l what your pot should feel like when you water your plant. The water table sits at the very bottom of the pot along with the plant's roots. Dry on the top 1" can still mean drowning in the bottom. Just a thought.
:Namaste:

You're kinda stuck on this. I told you when I transplanted all the plants were bone dry. When I water, I also lift the pots to feel the weight. But my main indicator is the finger test.

If you think its over watered, thats cool and I thank you for your opinion.

Anyone else have other ideas?
 
So changing directions slightly. There could be a root problem. Root rot or possibly you have some gnats that you haven't seen yet (hard to imagine). But whatever it is it is somewhere in the soil.

Gnats can cause that because they lay eggs in the soil and the larvae will feed off the root hairs until they are mature enough to start flying. when they eat the root hairs the root they are on becomes useless. So what happens is the plant starts to look under watered and there is little to do about it but re-pot in a bigger pot and pray it grows more roots. This can be avoided with a ~1 inch layer of Vermiculite on the top because they land on that to lay eggs in soil...find no soil and fly on. Again not likely the issue as you would see at least a few flying around.

You likely have a Ph problem so be sure to double check that and not the run off. Get a probe at home depot for like $14 and find out where you stand. Ph in soil is very robust. You can be fairly all over the place but not too far.

Since the good pics show some discoloration that I would associate with nute deficiency/abundance you could be looking at nute lockout due to Ph being a bit low. That could happen from dead rotting roots.

So if the thing is not over watered then I would recommend a flush. You take it to a bath tube and you run water through it and set the flow so that the pot is not overflowing... but you are filling it as fast as it is emptying. You do that for at least 15 min. Then let it dry for at least 2 days and start with a very low dose general nute nothing special just the base and maybe some cal mag. Then give it at least 3 days with no nutes and let it bounce back before ramping it back up.

Since you are running LEDs which as I understand (I know almost nothing about them) can cause some discoloration I may be wrong here on this but the good pics show discoloration in the leaves. I am seeing what could be Nitrogen or Magnesium or Sulfur deficiencies. Since you are in veg with substantial stretch and you just re-potted a root bound plant I suspect you do not have enough nitrogen in the mix. A very good way to get that quick without causing too much other stuff to get in there is to get some pre-composted steer manure. Take about 2-3 cups and put it in a thin sock and tie off the top. Place it in a bucket of about 5 gallons of water and let it sit overnight. After about 12-18 hours use that water in the plant. That will get you some quick nitrogen right in there.

Keep us posted...:nomo:
 
The soil has several amendments. Kelp meal, Alfalfa meal, Blood meal, bone meal, guano and EWC. I dont normally use liquid ferts. I have "Soul" by Aurora Its a nitrogen supplement I could use the next time I water
 
Yeah but it was clearly root bound when you transferred.

All I am saying is the problem is in the soil. When in doubt Flush it out and start over. If you are lucky it is not decomposing roots from an infection and the problem just washes away.

I also only have one bad plant right now from the same batch of soil :cheertwo:
 
You're kinda stuck on this. I told you when I transplanted all the plants were bone dry. When I water, I also lift the pots to feel the weight. But my main indicator is the finger test.

If you think its over watered, thats cool and I thank you for your opinion.

Anyone else have other ideas?

No worries - just trying to help.
The reason I'm "stuck on this" is because that's what it looks like to me and I know for a fact that bone dry 1" from the top tells you nothing about how wet the bottom is.
Good luck with your grow!
 
I want to just add...the issue with leaf discoloration is something different. What I am saying is unless the LEDs are doing it you have more than one problem.

Now the root cause could all be the same... but your leaves look bad and the the structure is droopy and sad. Those are two different things.

Being root bound can be a sign that you have used up that soil...so even though you have put in good stuff it may all be used up. After repotting it can take up to 2 weeks for a messed up plant to rebound...sometimes they just don't.

I am going to make one more recommendation that you could try. My favorite is Hygrozyme but you want to go get some sort of enzyme treatment. The enzymes will do lots of good things but one of the best is they will eat up the dead roots and they poop out natural good nutes the plant wants. all growers should use it if they are re-potting plants (not recommended to begin with). I grow both soil and hydro and I wont do a hydro run without having a bottle handy. In soil it is fairly easy to avoid root issues but once they happen your best bet is to introduce enzymes. Anything with zyme in the name will do you right. It is not unnatural / chemical. It is just flat out one of the single best additives you can add for a healthy root system.

1/3 of the plant is the roots. Ignoring them is just wishful thinking.

:peace:

:thumb:

:goodluck:
 
No worries - just trying to help.
The reason I'm "stuck on this" is because that's what it looks like to me and I know for a fact that bone dry 1" from the top tells you nothing about how wet the bottom is.
Good luck with your grow!

You're only hearing what you want to hear. I took the entire rootball out of the pot to transplant and it was dry all the way to the bottom.

I dont think you use smart pots either. THere is much less of a "water table" in them. They breathe and drain very efficiently.
 
I grow in coco as well. Have seen something like this twice once was a root problem let the ph get a little to low and kill some roots.
Not going to say its this but the second one was left the water get to low and added water and the PH match was to big a change and the plants went into shock a lot like yours with that funny pattern in the back ground of the leaves. Is a deficinicy caused by ph problem..
Both were a ph lock out problem.
 
After you cut it down take soil and look it over in and out learn your roots its what makes the plant once I found a clump in the soil and half my plant look like something from a toxic waste dump the other half look good one cigarette butt will mess it up also.
 
Any update? I think after trying this that and the other Hygrozyme has fixed the problem in my one bad plant potted at the same time in the same soil.
 
After you cut it down take soil and look it over in and out learn your roots its what makes the plant once I found a clump in the soil and half my plant look like something from a toxic waste dump the other half look good one cigarette butt will mess it up also.

Thanks for the replies, guys.

You found a clump of what?

Update, things are looking better. Only able to take photos under the LED right now but the overall look of the plant is better. leaves arent loking shriveled.
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This is my second crop. The first go around was only one plant and I never tested the PH. The results were outstanding. Have a look at my gallery. Flowering Update! Close up picsBetter pot than any of my so called epert grower friends have produced. They tend to many more plants though so I wont get too full of myself. haha,

I use R/O exclusively so PH hasnt been so much of an issue. Tested the PH of my runoff the other night and it was a bit high if my results were acurate. 6.5-7ish

Problem is the runoff is a little yellow from the fresh soil ammendments (recent transplant) and I dont think I could read an accurate color.
 
Before I start it will take 7 to 10 days to correct your problems not a day or two

This plant need moving air all the time the lights are on enough to move the leaves like a gentle breeze that is some of your problem I think.

Put your hand under the direct light from your light palm down if it feels warm to your hand think of the leaves they are very thin

The PH should be a little higher let that plant set till you get ride of the drooped leaves don't cut and wait for a week and when it dryes out the leaves will pick up and keep flushing till the PH is just a few tenth's difference if go in at 6 out should be 6.2 or 6.3 out. That will tell you what your plant is using if you have ppm do it to keep a log. You are flushing all the unused nutrients out of it also it will help you learn your plant all strains are a bit different. My Grand mother has a saying that fits here if the leaves point up more light they are reaching for it. If droop down they are pointing at the problem. Cutting or trimming now will stress the heck out of your plant. When training your plants be gently and just before they go into darkness.

The ppm meter or EC will tell you when your done flushing

Because your showing the yellow back ground and not tips you should do a PH range flush what ever your start PH say 5.8 which I run in coco and go up .2 till you get to 6.5 then go back down slowly and you will correct a lot of this but them plants need moving air.

One plant takes a few sq ft of space don't crowed when young 4 plants need much more space.

You go out and run around the block till sweating a good bit then go in the shower no water stand for 2 min then go find small fan and you will understand.

The clump was a piece of composted wood killed by chemistry Potting soils with time release anything are not wonderful google potting soils problems and review the side by side grows. The lab at the college took a month and 10 tests to find. The head of chemistry is a Nam buddy of mine the cost went up in smoke

To many edits do me a favor go to utube and watch some about the difference between LED and other lights
Led's are directional meaning the coverage is a straight down deal. The others are a flood process others burn with heat Leds because you have it all aimed in a very small area. Will light burn and cook the leaves faster than others. My Leds are at 40 watts per sq ft at 20" above they move up with plant.
 
This plant need moving air all the time the lights are on enough to move the leaves like a gentle breeze that is some of your problem I think.

Put your hand under the direct light from your light palm down if it feels warm to your hand think of the leaves they are very thin

My Leds are at 40 watts per sq ft at 20" above they move up with plant.



Thanks for taking the time to write the reply.

Other than the small fan, I also have a 4" Hurricane inline and a carbon filter circulating and scrubbing the air inside the closet and exhausting out the side. There is also a large box fan moving air around the room outside the closet briunging fresh air in from the rest of the house

I'm not going to use more than 3 fans for 5 plants.

I realize the leds are lower than ideal but thats only because the plants got so tall so fast and I ran out of room. I will be super cropping and bending them over to a more managable height when I start flowering next week. NOt sure if you read tha whole thread or not.

Also, I'm not gonna flush right now. The problem started before the transplant and I'm not going to wash out the new fertlizers I just mixed into the soil. I dont feed liquid ferts and I dont wish to top dress all through flowering,

I nuked the soil last time with what most growers would assume was an overdose of blood meal and guano. The runoff was literally black for over 2 weeks. After an initial shock (growth slowed for about a week. (Could have been transplant shock in general) it went on to yield better pot than anything my friends have ever grown with complicated hydroponics setups. I appreciate everyones advice. I am mostly hearing remedies that I, for one reason or another, am unable or unwilling to attempt.
 
Overdose is overdose but doing it natural like how you and I do it makes the plants so much happier. They can deal with a too much poop a lot better than straight chems...and the real reason is all the fun stuff that comes in the poop fixes almost everything that can go wrong.
 
Overdose is overdose but doing it natural like how you and I do it makes the plants so much happier. They can deal with a too much poop a lot better than straight chems...and the real reason is all the fun stuff that comes in the poop fixes almost everything that can go wrong.

Absolutely! A guy I used to work with was growing outdoors in Coco and using a liquid fertiliaer. His plants were tiny and the little airy nugs that were struggling to grow were sad, to be kind. I feel like with organic soil the nutes are there whenever the plants needs them. They dont rely on me to give it to them when I get around to it. Not only that, they natural ferts are most likely easier to process for the plants. I'm sure a few would argue that point but my dank nugz beg to differ. :yummy:
 
They can argue all they want but if they care to do the research...well I can tell you I only have chems for just in case or leftovers from Hydro. My soil works entirely through Veg. I make a tea brew that is basically all the fancy stuff in the AN line but I get it all in one bottle from the raw ingredients myself and bam I have an all natural bloom tea the makes them explode. And I do it for cheap!

People like to think because they have done a cool grow that they have figured it out.

Watch this and tell me chemical nutes are the way to go...


You cant beat nature no matter how hard you try.
:thumb:
 
I would add when I started doing this there was Miracle Grow and Scott's Fertilizers. I got lucky and had My hand held by a few scientists and I have a family background in Farming so I was able to understand and pick it up.

When I started back up here recently and saw what is out there I was flabbergasted and just had a real hard time believing that bottling this stuff I learned about in the mid 90's would make it better. It sure is a lot more expensive and the bottles are neat to look at...but the stuff inside is derived from stuff you can just go buy. I like the process of doing it myself because it is so easy and cheap and satisfying to do...but I understand the desire to make it"easy"... however that doesn't mean better.
 
I would add when I started doing this there was Miracle Grow and Scott's Fertilizers. I got lucky and had My hand held by a few scientists and I have a family background in Farming so I was able to understand and pick it up.

When I started back up here recently and saw what is out there I was flabbergasted and just had a real hard time believing that bottling this stuff I learned about in the mid 90's would make it better. It sure is a lot more expensive and the bottles are neat to look at...but the stuff inside is derived from stuff you can just go buy. I like the process of doing it myself because it is so easy and cheap and satisfying to do...but I understand the desire to make it"easy"... however that doesn't mean better.

You are so right. Its more than likely modern greed and marketing. I have many smaples the guys at the shop give me. I use SuperThrive with waterings and "Push" Foliar Spray once a week-2 weeks. Just started using the Push a few weeks ago. My local Hydro shop gives away free Earthworm Tea made from R/O and castings twice a week. I typically water with that


I have CalMag and Roots HPK "just in case" as well as some Tappin Roots liquid for feeding clones. I'm not a hippie, vegan or organic purist. It just seems to make more sense to give them natural food.

I agree on wanting to do it yourself. Its like BBQing hamburgers vs buying them at McDonalds
 
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