Diagnosing plant problem

[AKFox]

Hey guys, new grower here, so bear with my inexperience. I need your help.

I have 8 plants in veg state at the moment, and everything was going well. I'm growing in a wick system, using peat moss and GH floragrow and micro as nutrient (both mixed @1 tsp. To gal. As per instructions). Last week, things started going awry. Started getting rust brown spots on fan leaves, tips turned brown, now the leaves are starting to dry up, curl up like closed fists, and die. Thought it was a mag deffiency, so added some mag-sulfate to the nute and spray bottle. Nothing changed, plants are only getting worse. Thinking it might be a calcium issue now, but shouldn't they be getting what they need from the nutrients?
I'm starting to panic because me previously healthy little girls are starting to show the same signs. I don't want to lose my babies here, so any info is greatly appreciated. I'll get some pics up as soon as I figure out how. (Doing this via phone, not giving me the option right now)
Thanks,
Fox

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Hi & welcome to

A little guide some days a pic can say a thousand words - Photo Gallery Guide - How to Resize, Upload & Post Photos

You mention peat moss !

Well if that is not PH adjusted with lime/dolomite etc i suspect that it could be a problem as peat moss alone is an acidic in nature pretty low around PH 4 give or take a bit, so that may well alone be causing nutrient lock out problems.

Lime / dolomite are neutral PH buffers used with acidic soils/compost to raise to around PH 7 or some where near depending on soil structure or type etc so correct amounts are needed.

 

[AKFox]

Hope this helps. Thanks.

 

[AKFox]

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Well it don't look to happy about some thing ?

The burning question is that just straight peat moss you used ?

If it is that well be the problem.

Not beyond saving them tho but ya need to get back with more info please

 

[AKFox]

Yeah, straight up shagnum peat. No factory fertilizer added before purchase or use.

 

[AKFox]

Again, nutrient used is GH FloraGro with Micro, no bloom. Nutrients are mixed with water at 1tsp. per gal. as stated on the bottle. Light exposure is 16/8 with blue/white spectrum.

 

[williamreive]

Ok these problems could be many things but to determine specially what it is we need to determine certain factors did you notice the yellowing and wilting started in a specific spot of the plant or that it gradually worked from bottom to top or top to bottom. It can very from many things going from ph chemical burns fungus pests nute deficiencies (doubt it though)


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[williamreive]

My guess is you over does your plants with nutrients it's always good to take the extra percaustiom of dosing them 1\4 what the bottle says and gradually increase over time if there is no strength


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[williamreive]

Did you get all your nutrients in separate bottles or all in the same one because it is possible they can precipitate inside the bottle and then cause Chemical burns


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[Integrum Stultus]

Whats the pH in and out? Give her some straight water feeds and then cut the feed dose in to a 1/4 strength and up the dose as the girls tell you what they want.. You're most likely overfeeding.


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[Fuzzy Duck]

Yeah, straight up shagnum peat. No factory fertilizer added before purchase or use.

Ye well straight peat moss/sphagnum is PH 4 + so you are growing in an acidic medium which is causing nutrient lock out hence we are seeing some various defs here 'n' their.

This little chart shows various nutrients which are absorbed in the range of PH of soils.

I still feel it is the soil PH which is the problem as Mj prefers a mild acidic range some where around PH 6.5 & you can clearly see what nutrients are available around that point.

1. Not seen this done before but a chance of PH correcting nutrient feed to about PH 5.8 may pull you through the grow ?

2. Top dress pots with garden lime or dolomite & water in well, this will slowly alter the PH but a poor method if ya ask me.

3. More work... re pot em in fresh new peat mixed with lime/dolomite, ya need to get them down to a root ball with minimal harm with not so much medium attached then re pot into fresh PH buffered mix.

Growth will be little stunted for a few odd days or so but general health will pick up.

Or just get a bag of decent compost etc which is PH buffered between PH 6 & 7 then re pot with a smallish root ball, because of the two different mediums used & PH value after repotting the PH buffers together over time via leaching... just hortic terms really.

 

[Fuzzy Duck]

Oh ye i forgot if using lime/dolomite it is about 700 grams to a 125 liter bale of peat.