Diagnose please! pics

noobie97

New Member
I'm running a 18 x 10 ft. sealed room with 6k watts for medical patients. using a hydrogen propane c02 generator. leaves have recently been curling and yellowing. some are even a rust color.

initially i thought it was heat stress, so we added our bigger fan and brought the temps down from high 80's to high 70's. this still did not seem to fix the problem, as some plants ( about 5 out of 60) are still suffering from the problem. could it be too much co2? we pH the water to 6.5 and haven't used any nutes yet.

in FFOF no nutes yet

co22.jpeg
 
Have you seen this post?


rust explained.

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rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success.
 
Have you seen this post?


rust explained.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

rust, how many of you have had this and been beaten by it? lots i bet!!!
first, rust is a fungi. it is opportunist. it preys on unwell plants. if something is a miss, rust is a sign. rust has been identified to have 7,000 species. it attacks crops of every description. but we're only interested in one variety arn't we?
if rust is present early in a grow, you have problems as it's an indicator something in your room is a miss. usually ventilation. go through your system and double check things are in place and working properly.
rust is an air borne fungi. if given the opportunity, it WILL take hold. it usually does during flower as this is when the plants immune system is at its weakest as its energies are concentrating on re-production, not survival.
depending on what part of the grow you get it, you can cure/minimize it with either chemical or natural remedies.
it enters the leaf via the stomata and then it's off and running.
fungacides used are generally copper based and include; thriram, manzecob, maneb or zineb at 10 day intervills.
organic;
baking soda, 1 tea spoon/ quart of water. spray on.
copper sulphate, read lables.
fungacidal soap sprays;
garlic sprays, 1/2 cup minced garlic, 1 quart of water. let sit 24hrs, strain, spray.
sulphur, one of the best natural sprays. it is low in toxicity.
micro kill, a citric based killer. i use this with great success.

there is very little rust on the plants, it is mostly yellowing of the leaves.
 
yellow leaves green veins indicates mag def...id feed them

That and the twisted leaves indicate a pH problem.

What is your run off pH and how are you testing it?

DD
 
I'm not sure on the run-off. I'll measure next time I water; we always correct the pH to 6.5 before watering. They got fed yesterday and the new growth seems to be great.
 
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