Dark versus light green leaves

johnehazeharvester

Well-Known Member
I have three plants which should be the same genetics. Two of them have lighter green leaves and the other slightly darker green leaves. The one with the darker green leaves got one less nutrient feeding. Which is a healthier plant?
I have been feeding the Fox farm trio with half dose of the three Thanks ahead of time for any input
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looks good. some plants (phenos) just feed heavier than others. some clones will even feed a little different from each other, though much closer as they from the same pheno.
 
Thanks. This is my first grow and I'm trying to optimize things. Appreciate your input


i don't even see tipping, which would suggest you could move the feed levels up slightly even. they will be feeding heavier now in flower. if you run a booster now is when to start.
 
I have been diluting wood ash and water and pHing it with pH down which is phospheric acid as a slight flower boost. I don't have a real flower boost other than tiger bloom. I am trying to pop four more seeds. I figure by the time the new seeds are ready these will be cut down and dried and I could use my grow room. If my seats pop I figure I have about 3 to 3 and 1/2 weeks before they are ready for this room. I'll keep my fingers crossed that these seeds will pop. I think I will make it through my first harvest with some decent results
 
I have been diluting wood ash and water and pHing it with pH down which is phospheric acid as a slight flower boost. I don't have a real flower boost other than tiger bloom. I am trying to pop four more seeds. I figure by the time the new seeds are ready these will be cut down and dried and I could use my grow room. If my seats pop I figure I have about 3 to 3 and 1/2 weeks before they are ready for this room. I'll keep my fingers crossed that these seeds will pop. I think I will make it through my first harvest with some decent results


whatever you are doing you are super well balanced right now. they look fantastic. they are on the cusp of looking for more soon though.

i wouldn't mind seeing a couple of other opinions but i'm sure everyone will say they look good. let's give a shout to @Grand Daddy Black, @InTheShed, @Emilya Green, @Pat Puffer, @Jack 420, as i'm not the best on fox farm


edit : you may wanna let them mature a bit before popping the next round. your timing is a tad optimistic.
 
I spotted a touch of fert burn. Some curled up tips, but nothing to be concerned with. They look lovely. I want to shove my face right in the middle of them a take a big ol' whiff!

As mentioned, within a stabilized seed line you still will get variations or phenotype expressions. I think one only has to back breed 4 or 5 times for a so called stable seed. There still will be variations with in that seed line; not much though.
 
whatever you are doing you are super well balanced right now. they look fantastic. they are on the cusp of looking for more soon though.

i wouldn't mind seeing a couple of other opinions but i'm sure everyone will say they look good. let's give a shout to @Grand Daddy Black, @InTheShed, @Emilya Green, @Pat Puffer, @Jack 420, as i'm not the best on fox farm


edit : you may wanna let them mature a bit before popping the next round. your timing is a tad optimistic.
Thanks. Appreciate it. It's a bit late. Worse comes to worse. I could veg stuff in another room for a little bit. Hopefully I will not have a mutiny in the house
 
I spotted a touch of fert burn. Some curled up tips, but nothing to be concerned with. They look lovely. I want to shove my face right in the middle of them a take a big ol' whiff!

As mentioned, within a stabilized seed line you still will get variations or phenotype expressions. I think one only has to back breed 4 or 5 times for a so called stable seed. There still will be variations with in that seed line; not much though.
Thanks. I was away a full 7 days last week and left them alone with water bags to feed them and I noticed a few got slightly burnt from the lights but not bad. I was happy that it all worked out
 
so far so good, but I don't like the lighter color in the upper growth and I would think you could use a bit more of the nutes. I understand that you have been giving 50% of the recommended dosage, and this seems to have been working well for you, so far. I am curious if you have been doing the recommended flushes or if the light nutes has kept the need for this at bay until now.

I am also curious how much light you have them under, because a strong light would require more nutes than a weaker one... again I am trying to figure out how 1/2 nutes has gotten you here, with even a tiny bit of tip burn, because in my mind you should be showing some deficiencies... but you are not. This to me is a bit of a puzzle.

After you give me these additional facts I will feel more confident giving you some advice to move forward with. While we are at it, lets fill in some other gaps too. What sort of grow medium are you in? Are you following the FF feeding schedule per week of the grow, or some other schedule? Lastly, what is the pH of the fluid that you pour on the plants?
 
so far so good, but I don't like the lighter color in the upper growth and I would think you could use a bit more of the nutes. I understand that you have been giving 50% of the recommended dosage, and this seems to have been working well for you, so far. I am curious if you have been doing the recommended flushes or if the light nutes has kept the need for this at bay until now.

I am also curious how much light you have them under, because a strong light would require more nutes than a weaker one... again I am trying to figure out how 1/2 nutes has gotten you here, with even a tiny bit of tip burn, because in my mind you should be showing some deficiencies... but you are not. This to me is a bit of a puzzle.

After you give me these additional facts I will feel more confident giving you some advice to move forward with. While we are at it, lets fill in some other gaps too. What sort of grow medium are you in? Are you following the FF feeding schedule per week of the grow, or some other schedule? Lastly, what is the pH of the fluid that you pour on the plants?
Thanks. I used some old soil from my girlfriend's prior potted flowers. I added perlite and nature's living soil. This may be the reason I am doing okay cuz it is also a natural soil along with the nutrients. I keep the PPFD of the top colas at 1000 but the rest of the plant probably gets 8-900. I use mostly well water which has a PPM of about 130. It has a high pH of about 8.3 IPH down with phospheric acid . I also supplement with wood ash dissolved somewhat in water and pH that as well. I have added CalMag a few times about 2 ml per gallon. I definitely may have slight nutrient deficiencies but bottom leaves are pretty green. Maybe it's some immobile nutrients showing up in top leaves but it doesn't seem too bad. I also have some pretty frosty buds. I will post a picture from a microscope I purchased on Amazon for about 30 bucks that connects to my phone. I took these pictures about 3 days ago.
I have never flushed. I add one teaspoon of grow, big, one teaspoon of tiger bloom and one and a half teaspoons of big bloom to a gallon of water. Sometimes a half a teaspoon of Epsom salt and sometimes 2 ml of cal mag. I have added Epsom salt maybe three times and Cal mag may be three times
Screenshot_20230116-145058.png


Screenshot_20230116-145120.png
 
so far so good, but I don't like the lighter color in the upper growth and I would think you could use a bit more of the nutes. I understand that you have been giving 50% of the recommended dosage, and this seems to have been working well for you, so far. I am curious if you have been doing the recommended flushes or if the light nutes has kept the need for this at bay until now.

I am also curious how much light you have them under, because a strong light would require more nutes than a weaker one... again I am trying to figure out how 1/2 nutes has gotten you here, with even a tiny bit of tip burn, because in my mind you should be showing some deficiencies... but you are not. This to me is a bit of a puzzle.

After you give me these additional facts I will feel more confident giving you some advice to move forward with. While we are at it, lets fill in some other gaps too. What sort of grow medium are you in? Are you following the FF feeding schedule per week of the grow, or some other schedule? Lastly, what is the pH of the fluid that you pour on the plants?
Many of the initial feeds got well water before I learned about pHing so it was getting PH of about 8.3 for most of veg and probably early flower. Now I try to have a pH of around 6.4 -6.8 not too exact.
 
so far so good, but I don't like the lighter color in the upper growth and I would think you could use a bit more of the nutes. I understand that you have been giving 50% of the recommended dosage, and this seems to have been working well for you, so far. I am curious if you have been doing the recommended flushes or if the light nutes has kept the need for this at bay until now.

I am also curious how much light you have them under, because a strong light would require more nutes than a weaker one... again I am trying to figure out how 1/2 nutes has gotten you here, with even a tiny bit of tip burn, because in my mind you should be showing some deficiencies... but you are not. This to me is a bit of a puzzle.

After you give me these additional facts I will feel more confident giving you some advice to move forward with. While we are at it, lets fill in some other gaps too. What sort of grow medium are you in? Are you following the FF feeding schedule per week of the grow, or some other schedule? Lastly, what is the pH of the fluid that you pour on the plants?
The other interesting thing is the plants with the light green leaves actually got more nutrients than the plants with the dark green leaves. When I was away last week for the full week I had 3 water bags set up one of which had nutrients in it and the nutrient bag was almost full when I came home on the plant with the darker green leaves. The other plants got all the nutrients over the week. Each bag was 3 and 1/2 l. I estimate the plants got about 6 to 7 liters overall each for the 7 days. I was away last week. But the dark green plant got almost no nutrients.
 
Thanks. I used some old soil from my girlfriend's prior potted flowers. I added perlite and nature's living soil. This may be the reason I am doing okay cuz it is also a natural soil along with the nutrients. I keep the PPFD of the top colas at 1000 but the rest of the plant probably gets 8-900. I use mostly well water which has a PPM of about 130. It has a high pH of about 8.3 IPH down with phospheric acid . I also supplement with wood ash dissolved somewhat in water and pH that as well. I have added CalMag a few times about 2 ml per gallon. I definitely may have slight nutrient deficiencies but bottom leaves are pretty green. Maybe it's some immobile nutrients showing up in top leaves but it doesn't seem too bad. I also have some pretty frosty buds. I will post a picture from a microscope I purchased on Amazon for about 30 bucks that connects to my phone. I took these pictures about 3 days ago.
I have never flushed. I add one teaspoon of grow, big, one teaspoon of tiger bloom and one and a half teaspoons of big bloom to a gallon of water. Sometimes a half a teaspoon of Epsom salt and sometimes 2 ml of cal mag. I have added Epsom salt maybe three times and Cal mag may be three times
Screenshot_20230116-145058.png


Screenshot_20230116-145120.png
Many of the initial feeds got well water before I learned about pHing so it was getting PH of about 8.3 for most of veg and probably early flower. Now I try to have a pH of around 6.4 -6.8 not too exact.
It is important to know if you are adjusting the pH immediately before pouring it on the soil, with everything mixed in. This pH should be 6.3, every time.

So the difference between the plants is probably your fault, with some getting feed and some not... and things get curiouser with the results of that experiment.

FF is a scientifically designed system that works very well when you follow their extensive instructions. The scientists that designed the feeding chart know that our plant needs different nutrients at different stages of its growth. To this end, the dosage and mix of the trio changes from week to week. This isn't optional with this grow system. For all the things to work well together, you really have to follow the program. I strongly recommend downloading the soil feeding chart and then following it religiously from now on. You are going to find that you are not only giving the wrong combination of these nutes right now, but you are not giving enough. The dosages suggested on the bottles are not for precise indoor work, they are what you go by in an outside garden.

Your biggest problem though is most likely because of a buildup of salt in your soil, and this is blocking some of the nutrients. As FF breaks down, it releases a lot of salt into the soil, and this needs to be flushed out. If you don't flush, you are going to start having some big problems toward the end of the grow. 3x the container size in one watering session is how to do it. Reset the soil and then it will work well for you again.

This also brings to mind another item on the feeding chart. They suggest that you feed your plants up to two times a week. In soil, the common and preferred way of doing this is by following a feed/water/feed/water schedule, providing plain pH adjusted (6.3) water inbetween each feeding. This does several beneficial things, but by feeding every other time you can keep the soil a lot more clean. By following the suggested dosages in the feeding chart, half of the feed that you give is temporarily stored in the soil, so that it can be used on the water only pass. Soil is a great growing system, but you have to use the tool correctly to get maximum benefit.

Here is the feeding chart:
m%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F08%2Fsoilenglish.jpg
 
It is important to know if you are adjusting the pH immediately before pouring it on the soil, with everything mixed in. This pH should be 6.3, every time.

So the difference between the plants is probably your fault, with some getting feed and some not... and things get curiouser with the results of that experiment.

FF is a scientifically designed system that works very well when you follow their extensive instructions. The scientists that designed the feeding chart know that our plant needs different nutrients at different stages of its growth. To this end, the dosage and mix of the trio changes from week to week. This isn't optional with this grow system. For all the things to work well together, you really have to follow the program. I strongly recommend downloading the soil feeding chart and then following it religiously from now on. You are going to find that you are not only giving the wrong combination of these nutes right now, but you are not giving enough. The dosages suggested on the bottles are not for precise indoor work, they are what you go by in an outside garden.

Your biggest problem though is most likely because of a buildup of salt in your soil, and this is blocking some of the nutrients. As FF breaks down, it releases a lot of salt into the soil, and this needs to be flushed out. If you don't flush, you are going to start having some big problems toward the end of the grow. 3x the container size in one watering session is how to do it. Reset the soil and then it will work well for you again.

This also brings to mind another item on the feeding chart. They suggest that you feed your plants up to two times a week. In soil, the common and preferred way of doing this is by following a feed/water/feed/water schedule, providing plain pH adjusted (6.3) water inbetween each feeding. This does several beneficial things, but by feeding every other time you can keep the soil a lot more clean. By following the suggested dosages in the feeding chart, half of the feed that you give is temporarily stored in the soil, so that it can be used on the water only pass. Soil is a great growing system, but you have to use the tool correctly to get maximum benefit.

Here is the feeding chart:
m%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F08%2Fsoilenglish.jpg
This is awesome, thanks for the detailed response. I was using the same soil feeding schedule you posted and if you half everything I was doing one and a half teaspoons of big bloom, one teaspoon of grow big and one teaspoon of tiger bloom. I Don't have any of the other Fox farm trio additives and I thought with half dose maybe I wouldn't have to flush but I might be wrong
 
It is important to know if you are adjusting the pH immediately before pouring it on the soil, with everything mixed in. This pH should be 6.3, every time.

So the difference between the plants is probably your fault, with some getting feed and some not... and things get curiouser with the results of that experiment.

FF is a scientifically designed system that works very well when you follow their extensive instructions. The scientists that designed the feeding chart know that our plant needs different nutrients at different stages of its growth. To this end, the dosage and mix of the trio changes from week to week. This isn't optional with this grow system. For all the things to work well together, you really have to follow the program. I strongly recommend downloading the soil feeding chart and then following it religiously from now on. You are going to find that you are not only giving the wrong combination of these nutes right now, but you are not giving enough. The dosages suggested on the bottles are not for precise indoor work, they are what you go by in an outside garden.

Your biggest problem though is most likely because of a buildup of salt in your soil, and this is blocking some of the nutrients. As FF breaks down, it releases a lot of salt into the soil, and this needs to be flushed out. If you don't flush, you are going to start having some big problems toward the end of the grow. 3x the container size in one watering session is how to do it. Reset the soil and then it will work well for you again.

This also brings to mind another item on the feeding chart. They suggest that you feed your plants up to two times a week. In soil, the common and preferred way of doing this is by following a feed/water/feed/water schedule, providing plain pH adjusted (6.3) water inbetween each feeding. This does several beneficial things, but by feeding every other time you can keep the soil a lot more clean. By following the suggested dosages in the feeding chart, half of the feed that you give is temporarily stored in the soil, so that it can be used on the water only pass. Soil is a great growing system, but you have to use the tool correctly to get maximum benefit.

Here is the feeding chart:
m%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F08%2Fsoilenglish.jpg
I do pH it after I add everything but usually don't get it quite to 6.3. I also noticed my soil is a bit alkaline slightly over seven. I have a cheap pH gauge so can't give an exact number. I did not do a soil slurry test. I figured I would ride this one out and my next batch. I will try to optimize things more
 
It is important to know if you are adjusting the pH immediately before pouring it on the soil, with everything mixed in. This pH should be 6.3, every time.

So the difference between the plants is probably your fault, with some getting feed and some not... and things get curiouser with the results of that experiment.

FF is a scientifically designed system that works very well when you follow their extensive instructions. The scientists that designed the feeding chart know that our plant needs different nutrients at different stages of its growth. To this end, the dosage and mix of the trio changes from week to week. This isn't optional with this grow system. For all the things to work well together, you really have to follow the program. I strongly recommend downloading the soil feeding chart and then following it religiously from now on. You are going to find that you are not only giving the wrong combination of these nutes right now, but you are not giving enough. The dosages suggested on the bottles are not for precise indoor work, they are what you go by in an outside garden.

Your biggest problem though is most likely because of a buildup of salt in your soil, and this is blocking some of the nutrients. As FF breaks down, it releases a lot of salt into the soil, and this needs to be flushed out. If you don't flush, you are going to start having some big problems toward the end of the grow. 3x the container size in one watering session is how to do it. Reset the soil and then it will work well for you again.

This also brings to mind another item on the feeding chart. They suggest that you feed your plants up to two times a week. In soil, the common and preferred way of doing this is by following a feed/water/feed/water schedule, providing plain pH adjusted (6.3) water inbetween each feeding. This does several beneficial things, but by feeding every other time you can keep the soil a lot more clean. By following the suggested dosages in the feeding chart, half of the feed that you give is temporarily stored in the soil, so that it can be used on the water only pass. Soil is a great growing system, but you have to use the tool correctly to get maximum benefit.

Here is the feeding chart:
m%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F08%2Fsoilenglish.jpg
I was doing the water every day or every other day and usually a feed on the third day so it definitely was getting less nutrients than recommended but I am not using coco.. I am using a living soil so I believe it's getting nutrients from the soil as well. I was going by this charge just half nutrients as recommended by some on podcasts I listen to, like grow bud yourself or Mr. Grow it
 
Be careful the knowledge that you're picking up on YouTube because some of it is just flat out wrong. If you pH at 6.3 and your soil is up at the upper end near 6.8 then everything is perfect and the system will work exactly as it was designed to do. There's no need to do a slurry test or adjust the soil pH in almost every case. Adjusting soil pH is a completely different school of thought and if you want to grow that way or the way they are showing you on the videos paying great attention to the soil pH, then go ahead, but you may not be doing this the easiest or even the right way. I have never once even considered doing a slurry test on my soil, it's just not important or necessary. Every once in awhile I add some dolomite lime to my soil just to bring it back up to the upper end of the pH scale. Just because someone has a YouTube channel doesn't mean that they are necessarily an expert. My watering thread has it almost a half a million views yet I cannot necessarily be called an expert just because of that.

There are only just so many nutrients in your living soil and unless you're taking great pains to keep the microbes increasing in population, a lot of that raw nutrition just sits there. Many of us run a super soil or a living soil to fill in the gaps but we rely on the nutrient system that we are using to feed the plants. You should do the same.

Sounds like mostly you were doing things the way you should and just a couple of minor adjustments are going to get you in line with what most growers do. You will now be giving more nutes and I think that was the major part of the problem, but I would seriously consider doing a flush too. I ran Fox farms for a long time and I know how bad the salt lock out can be.
 
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