Circuit Breaker too small... Engineer help?
- Thread starter Thawk
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Steve McStoferson
New Member
not really, unless you want to run another circuit to your room. How much other power are you going to be running with lights, fans, pumps, etc?
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- #3
Steve McStoferson
New Member
with that much wattage you're better off running another 2 circuits in there just to be safe. I wouldn't go past 80% load on a circuit, even then I'd be nervous.
amperage70
New Member
You will need more power/ or if is residential your light circuit (room lighting) should be on a different circuit
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- #6
amperage70
New Member
If you need advice let me know. Sorta use to do that
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- #8
amperage70
New Member
Are all breaker position in the panel filled? Are they full size beakers? take a pic.
In addition to making sure that you have enough capacity in the individual circuits that supply your GR, do NOT forget to make sure that you have enough capacity in the entire system for everything in your home. Old homes - with older electrical systems - almost never have a 200-amp supply, and often only 100-amp. It is not unheard of for them to have even less.
Indiscriminately adding circuits or larger breakers without knowing the total can be dangerous. Obviously, not everyone will max out every circuit, but people tend to use what is available - or what they think is available - and if the load in your home is currently hovering around 80% and you decide to add a GR or add to one, that could be a recipe for disaster.
Keep in mind also that the starting requirements for many electrical devices is heavier than their running requirements; air-conditioners, refrigerators/freezers, lights with magnetic ballasts... And if several such items attempt to start up at the same time you could be attempting to draw more than you are aware of. (Ever have the electricity come back on after a power failure and notice that the lights were dim for a bit as everything in the home came back on at the same time?)
Indiscriminately adding circuits or larger breakers without knowing the total can be dangerous. Obviously, not everyone will max out every circuit, but people tend to use what is available - or what they think is available - and if the load in your home is currently hovering around 80% and you decide to add a GR or add to one, that could be a recipe for disaster.
Keep in mind also that the starting requirements for many electrical devices is heavier than their running requirements; air-conditioners, refrigerators/freezers, lights with magnetic ballasts... And if several such items attempt to start up at the same time you could be attempting to draw more than you are aware of. (Ever have the electricity come back on after a power failure and notice that the lights were dim for a bit as everything in the home came back on at the same time?)
amperage70
New Member
Very well stated. In fact if your house is older it might have 60 amp service. If this is your cup of tea and you are looking at a new residence. Check your service.
Note: If you add a panel to an existing panel it does not increase your service. (amp)
Note: If you add a panel to an existing panel it does not increase your service. (amp)
Bill C
New Member
1500 watts means you'll be pulling about 13.5 amps on a 110V circuit. Since it's a 15A circuit, you're already at 90% capacity on that circuit. 80% capacity is considered maximum for safety reasons, so you are definately in the red zone there and asking for a visit from your local fire department, to be followed up by a visit from your local law enforcement officers. And this doesn't even consider the A/C unit you want to install.
The obvious answer is to run another circuit to your room. But even with that, you'll be maxing out very soon. A 10A AC unit on a 15A circuit will be running at 67% capacity, so you won't want to add anything else to that circuit, and will still be running at 90% on the original circuit.
I would suggest running a sub-panel in your GR. I installed a 60A, 220V breaker in my primary breaker box. From that, I ran #6 guage wire to a small, 8 panel breaker box installed in my GR. That sub-panel box has a couple of dedicated 220V breakers for my HID lights, and a couple of 110V breakers for "seeing" lights, AC, pumps, fans, etc. I still have room in the sub-panel for one more 220V circuit, or two 110V circuits. All wiring from the sub-panel uses 12 guage wire.
If you are not familiar with electrical wiring, then do not attempt on your own!!!
amperage70
New Member
The misconception with this is, that a lot of people think by adding a 60 amp panel to an existing panel is that you ADD another 60amps to your service to obtain 160 amps. Voltages regulate depending on factors. Outlet voltage is @ 115 to 132 volts. So with that being said @1500 watts @120V = 12.5 amps. The deal with the ac is not the unit running, but the initial surge to get the unit turned on. If you are to go to the time and expense of running a sub panel you might as well install time clocks and other helpful devices. If you are gauging wire great! 14/3 romex will work just fine. I use 10 gauge for 480v outdoor lighting systems.
And if you cannot identify the size/rating of your entrance cable or understand any tags that might be attached, you should not be adding anything.
If I mentioned the capacity of my home's entrance cable and electrical system, many of you might not believe me. But I will state that it's older than I am (and I'm older than half the members here). "All original" is not always a good thing, lol.
No growing at my home. Or running a hair-dryer while the microwave (et cetera) is in operation, either.
Anyone remember knob & tube wiring? LMFAO.
If I mentioned the capacity of my home's entrance cable and electrical system, many of you might not believe me. But I will state that it's older than I am (and I'm older than half the members here). "All original" is not always a good thing, lol.
No growing at my home. Or running a hair-dryer while the microwave (et cetera) is in operation, either.
Anyone remember knob & tube wiring? LMFAO.
amperage70
New Member
I do. Your house was probably built prior to 1951.
Off-topic, but +REPs to the first person that guesses the rated capacity of my electrical system, lol.
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- #17
Ok well the A/c I have just been running to an outlet on a different section of the house, the 1500 watts wan an estimate, I am not exactly sure how much wattage each light draws compared to its output. I will take a picture of the box today but more than likely I'm just going to leave the A/C running to another plug. But as far as the load on the 15 Amp circuit, there are two PG 260's, two DIY 300 watt cfl lights, a UFO, two 50 watt plasma inductions, and a 440 cfm fan. It has never given me trouble except When I over loaded the circuit with the a/c. Also I don't own this house, so extreme alterations are out of the question.
The house itself is from '54 but its quite large and has at least if not more than a 200 A capacity in the main box, I saw at least two 60 amp breakers for the major appliances. I have done some wiring work but I'm beginning to think I may should wait and learn some more before trying something like putting in a new breaker box
The house itself is from '54 but its quite large and has at least if not more than a 200 A capacity in the main box, I saw at least two 60 amp breakers for the major appliances. I have done some wiring work but I'm beginning to think I may should wait and learn some more before trying something like putting in a new breaker box
amperage70
New Member
Ok, You need to read the Main ( i.e. if you wanted to kill the power to all of the house. ) This would be your total amperage. The wattage each light draws is on your lamp. To calculate voltage - take wattage / voltage. Your AC would blow your circuit when the compressor starts. I believe the breaker is rated for 125% of load initially. This is what makes power go bye-bye. Your 60amp breakers are for appliances that run on 220v.
amperage70
New Member
Off-topic, but +REPs to the first person that guesses the rated capacity of my electrical system, lol.
Just a guess but
Your electrical system was used until @ 1951. The houses were rated for 60amp service but were often pushed to draw up to 180A. Good thing is they did it right back then.
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- #20
Ok, thanks so much for all the info, but do you guys think I need to be moving some of the lights onto a different circuit? I wouldn't like to have a visit from the fire or police dept too much
