CFL vs LED

Latorre

420 Member
Whats better, cfls, or leds? Im taking about normal household e27 led bulbs, are they better than cfl considering lower heat output and better efficiency?

How many Actual Watts of leds do i need for a small plant? Are 5 20watts ones enough? Whats the yield gonna be like? 0.5g per watt?
 
Have u grown before

At that low watt of lights, yer growing be skills are even more important

.5gr per watt may be a stretch, but if yer a skilled GROWER, it's possible

Which is better,no clue, but guarantee a $100 led grow light will kill those light bulbs
 
Have u grown before

At that low watt of lights, yer growing be skills are even more important

.5gr per watt may be a stretch, but if yer a skilled GROWER, it's possible

Which is better,no clue, but guarantee a $100 led grow light will kill those light bulbs
I aldeady have a growing light. 150w,but that's only goos for one plant, so i wanna grow another with standard lights.
 
Also i have a question, i have 2 plants i dont wanna flower nor grow right now, but I don't wanna kill them, can i keep them alive with just one 20w light?
Probably. There is a group on this message board that grew with just the basic curly-Q CFL style bulb. Do a search and you should be able to find several threads. It just will take a bit of reading through a couple of message threads to see if the thread that you find will help explain what they were doing. If it does not, just go to the next one.

As for the plants you do not want to flower.
What you will be doing is deliberately stunting the growth on your plants. There are several ways to do this and the ones that I have used are for plants in soil. I do not do a coco coir mix or hydro style grow but some of the ways might work.

#1. Lower the temperature in the growing area. Not real cold, but maybe down to 60. This should be enough to slow it down. I have culinary herbs in the back room and the temps there can get down to the mid 30s during the winter. The plants stop growing, literally. No new leaves, nothing. I keep them watered and they stay green. When the temps go up in the spring the plants start new leaves and show signs of growth.

#2. Reduce the watering. Do not let the plant dry out so that it stays wilted, just every so often do not use as much water. The plant will slow down and recover when the extra water comes. This can be dangerous if you go to far since the plant might not recover enough to be at full potential later when it is time to flower it. Avoid wilting with the leaves turning brown. The plant will recover but you killed the leaves and sometimes the plant is never the same again.

#3. Prune some of the top growth. This slows down the plant while it replaces the leaves and stems. Maintain a good watering schedule and keep the plant closer to optimum temperatures until it has recovered.

#4. Root pruning involves taking the plant out of the pot or container. Whack off about 1/4 of the root mass, doing just a small amount from the sides and bottom or about 25% of the total by the time you are done. Then put it back in the pot with some new soil around the sides and bottom. The plant will stop growing while it redevelops the root system. Most plants will tolerate cooler temperatures while replacing all the roots that were removed.

You could do more than one at a time but be very careful if trying the reduced watering and the root pruning together. I am not saying it can't be done but it will be a real stress for the plant if you loose track. Keep some basic notes on what you have done and the day you did it.
 
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