Bubba Glue - Unknown - SIP & Bottom Feeding With HM Nutes - Knowledge Welcome!

jmrl

Well-Known Member
Strain/s: Jai-L
Genetic Makeup: Hybrid Sativa
Pot/Bucket Size: 5 gallon
Tent Size: 4' x 4'
Grow Space: 10' x 20'
How Many Plants: 2
Environment: Indoor
Stage: Veg

Lights: VSF6500 70% 24"-30" PPFD Under 600 Currently ( yay or nay ?) :slide:
Nutrients: DIY
Room/Tent Temperature: 80°
Relative Humidity: 74%
Media/Res PH: 7
Pests: None
Watering: Every Other or Third day. :dude-knocking:They Tell me :headbanger::tommy:

FIRST OFF
Thanks for the welcome!
I enjoy both tek's . I have done quite a bit of hydro in the past, it was my mother's choice so we set her tent up as I managed it. Mine has always been soil. I create the soil out of compost, leaf mold, urea, ash, sulfur, shell meal, crab meal, horse manure, and red worms. More but I do not recall atm as I have been trying to take better notes, please don't scald me :D

I have some photos of my last winter's small grow and this summer which was attacked by caterpillars and it was my first time dealing with so I harvested and took the lost before a major infestation. It turned out well I got about 3 ounces. For my setup, I believe that was decent.

With a shot of my new tent I just put up with the Grow hub from Viviosun. I have been a proud supporter of them for a while now. As I have purchased 3 setups from them for other setups I helped with. Heck Yeah, and you can edit :D


THIS IS WHY I NEED THE EDIT: LAWL

About my current growth I haven't got much of a shot except for one that I took trying to diagnose a problem, which is the first photo.. The rest are from past summer and winter.




PXL_20220822_195554881.jpg
PXL_20220817_161236588.NIGHT.jpg
PXL_20220821_201738254.jpg
PXL_20230906_130628585~2.jpg
PXL_20230908_003952616.jpg

PXL_20230922_194546615.jpg
PXL_20230922_194603423(1).jpg



AS a Babi Clone

PXL_20231005_162450249.jpg


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

So I have transplanted the bugers to my 5 gals. I finally got them looking healthy. I did go ahead and top both sides. So that will leave me at 4 branches, so One more and I'll have my lucky number.

PXL_20231007_175140053.jpg
PXL_20231007_171645006.MP.jpg


-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Coming ALONG



PXL_20231007_171645006.MP.jpg

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-==-

As of 16th OCT - COPY FROM INTRODUCTION POST

Little Update And Question before I start my Journal.

PXL_20231017_184928872.jpg


Does this look like Powdery Mildew?
The reason I ask it's the 2nd time I've had to remove the infected leaves, I am 85% certain I got the entire bunch this go around. The leaf with the burn was an earlier development as you might remember, this is where I believe the substance carried over.

Would spraying with a water-soluble sulfur be a good route with some neem for other pests?

When I turn the lights off? I have a fan going 24/7.

All of this seems feasible But a little input from the community wouldn't hurt. To get that knowledge sometimes you must ask

PXL_20231017_184315189.jpg


This is the two, one after I scalped the infected.. It was no residuals past from cross-contamination, hopefully. fingers crossed

PXL_20231017_184319207.jpg
PXL_20231017_184335126.jpg




This First post was Generated from a few post I made to Organize the information for record purposes only.




 
Hey JMRL,

This wil be short & sweet cuz I’m working but hopefully will circle back later

Nope please don’t mix sulfur with any kind of oil… read your product labels. If sulfur and oil are used within 2 weeks of each other there is good chance of leaf burn or necrosis

It looks like pressed peat pots, yes they are meant to transplanted but they don’t break down well. Kinda suspecting the roots haven’t penetrated the peat pots. Often times it needs to be peeled off- if the roots have not grown thru…

Scald? Never! Well maybe just little off the ears!! Ha, ha.. Anywho about your soil mix, anyone can mix up amendments but quite often that only compounds the problem. Trust me- it’s called Franken-mix and it costs you time and money. Ask me how I know;)

In most cases the amendments are meant to be cooked in the soil for at least 30 days, if not longer. I see a lot of brown dirt but no mulch or aeration. This is for your next run…. if you are in the US or Canada maybe look for a bag of soil from trusted source like fox farms or stonington coast of Maine, and then for nutrients all you need are 2 bags of Geoflora organic dry mix, there’s 1 formula for veg, another formula for flower cuz the ratios needed by the plant change. This will get you growing solid

It’s all good, just stay right here and we will get ya on track

best of luck - peace out!
 
Hey JMRL,

This wil be short & sweet cuz I’m working but hopefully will circle back later

Nope please don’t mix sulfur with any kind of oil… read your product labels. If sulfur and oil are used within 2 weeks of each other there is good chance of leaf burn or necrosis

It looks like pressed peat pots, yes they are meant to transplanted but they don’t break down well. Kinda suspecting the roots haven’t penetrated the peat pots. Often times it needs to be peeled off- if the roots have not grown thru…

Scald? Never! Well maybe just little off the ears!! Ha, ha.. Anywho about your soil mix, anyone can mix up amendments but quite often that only compounds the problem. Trust me- it’s called Franken-mix and it costs you time and money. Ask me how I know;)

In most cases the amendments are meant to be cooked in the soil for at least 30 days, if not longer. I see a lot of brown dirt but no mulch or aeration. This is for your next run…. if you are in the US or Canada maybe look for a bag of soil from trusted source like fox farms or stonington coast of Maine, and then for nutrients all you need are 2 bags of Geoflora organic dry mix, there’s 1 formula for veg, another formula for flower cuz the ratios needed by the plant change. This will get you growing solid

It’s all good, just stay right here and we will get ya on track

best of luck - peace out!
ThANKS
Very helpful info. I noticed that I did not have enough aeration myself. The perlite is starting to show through a bit more after a few waterings but nowhere nearly as much as I thought I had in it.,lol :D I added maybe 4 qts? I ordered some more perlite and I am going to swap over to 10 gals in another week, or so. Opinions?

I believe the added aeration would be worth the stunt that might happen from the transplant. You think?

I have been wanting to grab some soil from Fox Farm and try it, Thanks so much for the welcomed advice mate. I really want to capitalize on the mother nature aspect of this grow, trying to put my funds into the equipment since i am low on cash, and I knew i wouldn't be able to afford any nutes. I should have just gone ahead and made the switch, it would have saved me time and prob allowed me to have larger nugs.

We live and learn, as I can tell you learned the same way possibly :D

Please give anymore advice you may have. It is much appreciated
 
I mentioned in your other thread that I think it's mites, not mildew. Do you have a loop to scope the undersides of the leaves?
They would have spread to the other plant by now, wouldn't they? I inspected the leaves for them a bit. A spray with the neem will take care of any that may be present, as long as I spray the entire plant or full coverage so no places for them to hide?

Do they stick to one plant before spreading? Its a journey. I have been persistent in checking on them. I have had mites, and aphids both ruin plants before I know its something you gotta take care of quickly. Appreciate any help!


I didnt see your previous post good sir. Thanks for reposting, I have a magnify ill throw to them to check. Wouldnt hurt to do a neem spray still though correct? I did not go with the sulfur, just trying to weigh my options and be patient. Ive messed more up jumping the gun :(
 
A spray with the neem will take care of any that may be present, as long as I spray the entire plant or full coverage so no places for them to hide?
If it is mites, you'll never get them all with a single spray, no matter how thoroughly you think you've soaked the plant. Plus I don't think the neem works on the eggs so you'll get new hatchlings daily for several days.

Best practice is to spray every day for three days or so, then every three days for a couple of weeks to make sure you break the cycle. Then, maybe weekly as a preventative.

Personally I just spray a diluted organic soap spray every few days. The soap penetrates the waxy coating on the bugs' outer shells and dehydrated them from the inside. Good stuff.
 
If it is mites, you'll never get them all with a single spray, no matter how thoroughly you think you've soaked the plant. Plus I don't think the neem works on the eggs so you'll get new hatchlings daily for several days.

Best practice is to spray every day for three days or so, then every three days for a couple of weeks to make sure you break the cycle. Then, maybe weekly as a preventative.

Personally I just spray a diluted organic soap spray every few days. The soap penetrates the waxy coating on the bugs' outer shells and dehydrated them from the inside. Good stuff.
sweet. I have some beard soap-bar- that is organic, can I use this but of course, id create a spray with it. I have no liquid organic on hand.
 
Welcome to the group. It will be an adventure and you should enjoy the ride.

About my current growth I haven't got much of a shot except for one that I took trying to diagnose a problem, which is the first photo..
What I am seeing in that photo is a plant that has a root system problem. The roots have not developed properly for one or more reasons.

Your temperatures and humidity are OK enough and I really think the problems go back to what you are growing in. As @013 pointed out what you are growing in does not look right. To me it seems like a lot of peat moss or shredded coco coir and very little actual compost or Perlite added.

The best thing I can come up with is to go to the store tomorrow and buy a bag or two of Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil and transplant those plants back into the pots of fresh soil. Do not add anything to the store bought soil at this point. Water just enough to the soil moist. That way you have no variables that can cause confusion along the way trying to figure out what might be going wrong.

In your free time do a google search on potting soil mixes or potting soil recipes and read several of them. The base mix is 1/3 Compost which might or might not have worm castings added, 1/3 Peat Moss or something to help keep the compost from compacting but will still hold moisture and finally 1/3 Perlite. That mix is more than enough to grow seedlings, young plants and houseplants or summer flowers for the porch. After reading up on potting mixes you can then add some of the ingredients you mentioned based on how much of the mix you made.

Speaking of which, there is a good chance that the #1 problem in that mix you made is that you added to much and not enough. You wrote....
I create the soil out of compost, leaf mold, urea, ash, sulfur, shell meal, crab meal, horse manure, and red worms.
Sulfur is added to some soils to lower the pH so I wonder why since you have not mention the soil's or water's pH yet. Do not use or add urea to your potting soil mixes. It has an NPK of 46-0-0 which is extremely high Nitrogen for the type of growing you are doing. Plus modern urea is no longer processed from cow urine. It is manufactured from various forms ammonium.The urea along with the horse manure which is good to add in moderation is probably burning the root system and the above ground part of the plant.

It does look like a mite problem based on the tiny dots on the leaves. They are very small insects and most of the time they cannot be seen just by looking at the top or bottom of the leaf which is why so many growers will recommend using a magnifying loupe. Eventually some of them might live long enough that you can see them crawling along on one of their webs but by then they have become a major problem.

By the time I see their damage on one leaf on one plant I know that they have already spread to every other plant in the room.
sweet. I have some beard soap-bar- that is organic, can I use this but of course, id create a spray with it. I have no liquid organic on hand.
Be sure that what ever you are using is a soap and not a detergent. And that it is a soap suited for use on plants. If you already have some Neem Oil then stick with that. Mix according to the instructions. If it says to add some soap as an emulsifier then a couple of drops of dish detergent is OK. At least I have not had a problem with a few drops of dish soap/detergent. @Azimuth has a good spray schedule for mite control with Neem Oil.

Or buy a liquid soap from a gardening store or grow shop that is made for use on plants to control insects. Many of them will list "salts of fatty acids" on the ingredient list. Those have come highly recommended by some of the growers in the group.

THIS IS WHY I NEED THE EDIT: LAWL
If you mean to edit your message then it can be done. After you hit the "Post reply" button the "Edit" button should show up. Tap that and you can edit, add or delete parts of your message. The option to edit is good for 420 minute or 7 hours after which the button disappears. I use it a lot myself:).

Oh, get a Kelp product which should have a higher amount of Potassium than Nitrogen or Phosphorous. It is an important element used by plants to maintain a healthy state and it will do wonders for your plants when they start to recover.

Good luck and have fun.:)
 
Welcome to the group. It will be an adventure and you should enjoy the ride.


What I am seeing in that photo is a plant that has a root system problem. The roots have not developed properly for one or more reasons.

Your temperatures and humidity are OK enough and I really think the problems go back to what you are growing in. As @013 pointed out what you are growing in does not look right. To me it seems like a lot of peat moss or shredded coco coir and very little actual compost or Perlite added.

The best thing I can come up with is to go to the store tomorrow and buy a bag or two of Fox Farms Ocean Forest soil and transplant those plants back into the pots of fresh soil. Do not add anything to the store bought soil at this point. Water just enough to the soil moist. That way you have no variables that can cause confusion along the way trying to figure out what might be going wrong.

In your free time do a google search on potting soil mixes or potting soil recipes and read several of them. The base mix is 1/3 Compost which might or might not have worm castings added, 1/3 Peat Moss or something to help keep the compost from compacting but will still hold moisture and finally 1/3 Perlite. That mix is more than enough to grow seedlings, young plants and houseplants or summer flowers for the porch. After reading up on potting mixes you can then add some of the ingredients you mentioned based on how much of the mix you made.

Speaking of which, there is a good chance that the #1 problem in that mix you made is that you added to much and not enough. You wrote....

Sulfur is added to some soils to lower the pH so I wonder why since you have not mention the soil's or water's pH yet. Do not use or add urea to your potting soil mixes. It has an NPK of 46-0-0 which is extremely high Nitrogen for the type of growing you are doing. Plus modern urea is no longer processed from cow urine. It is manufactured from various forms ammonium.The urea along with the horse manure which is good to add in moderation is probably burning the root system and the above ground part of the plant.

It does look like a mite problem based on the tiny dots on the leaves. They are very small insects and most of the time they cannot be seen just by looking at the top or bottom of the leaf which is why so many growers will recommend using a magnifying loupe. Eventually some of them might live long enough that you can see them crawling along on one of their webs but by then they have become a major problem.

By the time I see their damage on one leaf on one plant I know that they have already spread to every other plant in the room.

Be sure that what ever you are using is a soap and not a detergent. And that it is a soap suited for use on plants. If you already have some Neem Oil then stick with that. Mix according to the instructions. If it says to add some soap as an emulsifier then a couple of drops of dish detergent is OK. At least I have not had a problem with a few drops of dish soap/detergent. @Azimuth has a good spray schedule for mite control with Neem Oil.

Or buy a liquid soap from a gardening store or grow shop that is made for use on plants to control insects. Many of them will list "salts of fatty acids" on the ingredient list. Those have come highly recommended by some of the growers in the group.


If you mean to edit your message then it can be done. After you hit the "Post reply" button the "Edit" button should show up. Tap that and you can edit, add or delete parts of your message. The option to edit is good for 420 minute or 7 hours after which the button disappears. I use it a lot myself:).

Oh, get a Kelp product which should have a higher amount of Potassium than Nitrogen or Phosphorous. It is an important element used by plants to maintain a healthy state and it will do wonders for your plants when they start to recover.

Good luck and have fun.:)

I was very vague when I wrote that and I do apologize it is misleading, I have yet to add urea to this mix, I do not know why I said urea in the actual mix. It was something i planned to add if I saw it needed a boost. Your information is greatly appreciated. The soil information especially. I will do a better job with that. That was rushed and honestly uncalled for. :/

Ill look into the kelp, and other info thanks@!

Yes, just mix it in a container until you get nice sudsing action, spray it on, let it dry and then rinse off with clean water.

Put the glass to the leaves and sure enough was a mite for sure. I sprayed, its drying, and now. You recommend to rinse with clean pH-neutral water afterward, am I reading that correct? Thats new to me :D but interesting.

Also, The PH of my water is always 6.5 - 7 when I add it to the soil. I have yet to test the runoff. Where I use city water, I let my water sit over night, and have yet to exceed a runoff of any magnitude to measure. Am I doing more harm than good? Should I just use enough water no matter what to achieve the runoff to clean the roots? I just watered and It was 2 Gals with no runoff and I stopped and sprayed afterward.
PXL_20231020_012808177.jpg
PXL_20231020_012809923.jpg


You guys have been such needed bliss :D
 
Hey JMRL,

This wil be short & sweet cuz I’m working but hopefully will circle back later

Nope please don’t mix sulfur with any kind of oil… read your product labels. If sulfur and oil are used within 2 weeks of each other there is good chance of leaf burn or necrosis

It looks like pressed peat pots, yes they are meant to transplanted but they don’t break down well. Kinda suspecting the roots haven’t penetrated the peat pots. Often times it needs to be peeled off- if the roots have not grown thru…

Scald? Never! Well maybe just little off the ears!! Ha, ha.. Anywho about your soil mix, anyone can mix up amendments but quite often that only compounds the problem. Trust me- it’s called Franken-mix and it costs you time and money. Ask me how I know;)

In most cases the amendments are meant to be cooked in the soil for at least 30 days, if not longer. I see a lot of brown dirt but no mulch or aeration. This is for your next run…. if you are in the US or Canada maybe look for a bag of soil from trusted source like fox farms or stonington coast of Maine, and then for nutrients all you need are 2 bags of Geoflora organic dry mix, there’s 1 formula for veg, another formula for flower cuz the ratios needed by the plant change. This will get you growing solid

It’s all good, just stay right here and we will get ya on track

best of luck - peace out!
Solid advice. CL🍀 Edit: I always use Myco on the rootball and in the hole when I uppot/ transplant. It really helps with the shock and makes the roots explode with new growth. Happy growing.
 
You recommend to rinse with clean pH-neutral water afterward, am I reading that correct? Thats new to me :D but interesting.
Soap scum or neem residue can stay on the leaves and clog the pores so a good rinse can help reset the leaves for action. Plus the soap spray is only effective when it makes direct contact with the bugs outer shells and allowed to dry. Once it is dry it has no effeunaffected. And even a bug landing on a freshly sprayed leaf will be largely uneffected.

Should I just use enough water no matter what to achieve the runoff to clean the roots? I just watered and It was 2 Gals with no runoff and I stopped and sprayed afterward.
You should be watering when the plant needs it, not on a schedule or using a set amount.
 
The PH of my water is always 6.5 - 7 when I add it to the soil. I have yet to test the runoff.
If you are in a soil which has a good amount of compost then there is a pretty good chance you will never find out the pH of your soil by testing the water that runs through the pot.

You can test and then wait 15 minutes and pour more water and test again only to get a different number. The number will keep changing because of the way the water dissolves some elements of the soil and the way the micro-organisms will be decomposing or ingesting organic and in-organic material. Some of the people in the group call testing "run-off water" to be the same as a dog chasing its tail. You end up going round and round and never getting anywhere.

...I just watered and It was 2 Gals with no runoff...
That does not sound right. Kind of along the lines that something is not right with the soil or the mix in the pots. I would think that based on the size of those pots you should have had some water running through before you poured one gallon per pot.
 
If you are in a soil which has a good amount of compost then there is a pretty good chance you will never find out the pH of your soil by testing the water that runs through the pot.

You can test and then wait 15 minutes and pour more water and test again only to get a different number. The number will keep changing because of the way the water dissolves some elements of the soil and the way the micro-organisms will be decomposing or ingesting organic and in-organic material. Some of the people in the group call testing "run-off water" to be the same as a dog chasing its tail. You end up going round and round and never getting anywhere.


That does not sound right. Kind of along the lines that something is not right with the soil or the mix in the pots. I would think that based on the size of those pots you should have had some water running through before you poured one gallon per pot.


I have started gathering more items to amend to the soil for aeration and drainage. I do allow them to tell me when they need water, it was nearly 3 days before I saw any signs of needing water, this time. I wasnt as prepared for this grow as I should have been. That is another reason why I didn't buy my seeds and Its just a trial run to get things going right. Thanks!

P.S I have started writing a better brief of my soil contents :D
 
Soap scum or neem residue can stay on the leaves and clog the pores so a good rinse can help reset the leaves for action. Plus the soap spray is only effective when it makes direct contact with the bugs outer shells and allowed to dry. Once it is dry it has no effeunaffected. And even a bug landing on a freshly sprayed leaf will be largely uneffected.


You should be watering when the plant needs it, not on a schedule or using a set amount.
Thanks mate! BTW: Can I reuse the soap mixture that I made today, for another spray tomorrow? or is it best to use new? Was thinking I could leave this on hand since its just soap.


This is a shot from today, If im reading her correctly it still may look like she is not getting enough Magnesium. Maybe this is because of the extra Nitrogen I have in the soil making it need more Magnesium. Any input is greatly appreciated of course, thanks in advance.
PXL_20231020_195844774.jpg
 
Can I reuse the soap mixture that I made today, for another spray tomorrow? or is it best to use new? Was thinking I could leave this on hand since its just soap.
Certainly. I have a separate sprayer just for my soap mix and mix up a full container and then use as needed.
 
The ladies have been doing well. I have been keeping an eye on the pest and haven't seen any more signs, of them. I sprayed for 3 days with the soap mixture.
I created a tea to do a foliar spray twice a day for the past two days.
This has been very helpful I believe with the growth.

10-23_am-non_known.png


As you might can tell the one on the right isnt as bushy yet, It has grown a ridiculous amount of arms :o. I believe I'll trim once I see where they all pop out at, trying to get the best coverage with the best space ratio. I figured If i needed to allow them to veg another week it would be worth it to make sure I kept the healthy colas.

Thanks for the help so far.
 
A little update, I have been trying to keep my post to a minimum, so it wouldn't flood my post.

I have transplanted one into my mix that has been cooking for a while now. Which is aerated a lot better, so Im hoping the roots like it much better.

This is a few days before the Transplant. I added some biochar to the top of CLone A01-[which is the one i transplanted]

10-25-non_known.png




The day before the Transplant 26th

10-26-non_known.png






Today [left is transplant] Right is the one I am putting in the 18 Gal TOTE
10-27-non_known_aftertransplant_night_CLONEA01.png





I have setup my SIP Container. What do you guys think about the uses. Styrofoam and Landscape Fabric with a Drink Crate.

PXL_20231027_181240651.jpg
PXL_20231027_181311302.jpg
PXL_20231027_181411371.jpg




PXL_20231027_183540488.MP.jpg
PXL_20231027_183711336.jpg
PXL_20231027_182034124.jpg


I have added the soil already, and im ready to transplant. Just Scared lol :/ Does everything look good for the go ahead. your opinion is greatly appreciated :D
 
Back
Top Bottom