Hey everyone, how's it going? What is the best way to get rid of or prevent that powder-like white mold. I'm growing in a 4x4 closet, I have a 600watt hps light, a fan blowing into closet and one fan in closet to blow air around, they get plenty of air flow. Temp range from 68-80 degrees, humidity range 30%-50%. I've tried cleaning room down with chlorine solution and atleast 3 different kinds of organic "mold-killing" sprays, but none of them really did the trick. If someone with experience with this problem could help me I'd really appreciate it. I'm sure this is something a lot of growers deal with. If you guys could share some of the solutions you've learned to deal with this problem let me know. Thanks and Have a good week. Peace!
Best Way To Really Get Rid Of White Powdery Mold?
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Smokin Moose
Fallen Cannabis Warrior & Ex Moderator
Home-made Fungal Disease Preparations for Black Spot and Powdery Mildew
Using Bicarbonate of Soda ( Baking Soda, Sodium bicarbonate ), a spray can be made that will effectively control powdery mildew and black spot.
Powdery Mildew : To one bucket of water add 7 teaspoons (20 grams) of bicarbonate of soda and sufficient laundry soap to make a rich lather. Stir the mixture to dissolve the bicarbonate of soda powder. Spray both sides of the affected leaves.
Using Bicarbonate of Soda ( Baking Soda, Sodium bicarbonate ), a spray can be made that will effectively control powdery mildew and black spot.
Powdery Mildew : To one bucket of water add 7 teaspoons (20 grams) of bicarbonate of soda and sufficient laundry soap to make a rich lather. Stir the mixture to dissolve the bicarbonate of soda powder. Spray both sides of the affected leaves.
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Thanks a lot guys, I'll try that out and let you know how it works. You think Can I use this solution during flowering too? Sounds safe, just wanna be sure. I hate that black mold so much man, you don't know how many nice clones I lost to that crap before I figured out it was from the perlite I was mixing in. DAMN YOU MOLD!!!
Anyways, This site is da Shit, you guys always help a brotha out, thanks again guys. PEACE@
Anyways, This site is da Shit, you guys always help a brotha out, thanks again guys. PEACE@I don't like using it in flower except the first 4 wks.
I've noticed a tingle on the lips, from the smoke at like 2 wks before harvest.
Says you can use it up to day of harvest on the bottle.
On veggies and friuts that is.
Not as bad if you mist/flush foliage
But
that ain't somethin' you want to do till the mildew is cured.
Damned if you do and damned if ya' don't
I've noticed a tingle on the lips, from the smoke at like 2 wks before harvest.
Says you can use it up to day of harvest on the bottle.
On veggies and friuts that is.
Not as bad if you mist/flush foliage
But
that ain't somethin' you want to do till the mildew is cured.
Damned if you do and damned if ya' don't
Got Humboldt?
New Member
Mildew isn't "cured".
Its systemic, which means once your plants have it... they got it for life. You can manage it and keep it from running wild through your garden, but thats about it.
Sulfur burners, Neem oil, high pH'd water sprayed on leaves, or a 10% baking soda solution can help get rid of it or manage it.
Think of Powdery mildew as being like a virus, that rears its ugly head when the plants are stressed or are not healthy.
Its systemic, which means once your plants have it... they got it for life. You can manage it and keep it from running wild through your garden, but thats about it.
Sulfur burners, Neem oil, high pH'd water sprayed on leaves, or a 10% baking soda solution can help get rid of it or manage it.
Think of Powdery mildew as being like a virus, that rears its ugly head when the plants are stressed or are not healthy.
doughboy79
New Member
I have the same problem, i have an enclosed half of a room with a tarp sectioning off a 12X12 space, I have spoken to my local horticulture shop guy, and he sold me a combo attack of a multi-purpose fungus and insecticide, a calcium spray to spray after the first spray. After spraying down my girls the first time with no calcium spray, *due to lack of funds and a desperate attempt to kill the white devil* i noticed a crispyness to the leaves , and when attempted again this time with the calcium spray, *the horticulture guy says the following was due to spraying during daytime* the leaves were almost bleached bright yellow, My question is, A: should i change out my strain? start with new crop? *keeping in mind the advice that was previously given, i understand when the plants get this stuff its like an std, but subsequently, we have been keeping this white shit alive somehow, one theory is because we have been cloning the same clones we got for about 6 months now, and i don't want to bring new girls around these girls with this damn herpes-like mold* B: What can i do now? I have 3 weeks to knock this crap off before harvest, the last girls we harvested, i just cleaned the white stuff off post-modem, but is there a safe *preferably homemade, i drive a car older than me, any less costly remedy that i can kick this shits ass with would be preferable, i am going to save the recipe given earlyer in this thread and use that during the veg cycle when this stuff comes around, but as the member who posted this stated, its not good around harvest time* C.Where would i install a hepa filter? does that go between the snail fan and the flower light? just for further information in the help of solving my problem we basicly just punched through the cealing in the room for the fans intake.........which as comon sense is starting to tingle and tell me that might be where it originated.....anywho....I would really appreitate any kind of further feedback on this subject and on my particulars, lord knows i need all the help i can get,
flyfishinrock
New Member
baking soda is way too messy, use 3%peroxide to 97% h2o spray them no more often than every 4 days, this is control only. Its a disease that is in the plant for a couple weeks befor you ever saw it, you need a new mother.
RooRman
Well-Known Member
The hyphae, or roots of the mold, extend well into the center of the plant matter. What you see on the surface is the product of a much deeper problem. As others have said, theres really no way to kill it, only to control it.
The only absolute way to kill mold is to cut your losses, do a complete tear down and cleaning of the growroom.
The only absolute way to kill mold is to cut your losses, do a complete tear down and cleaning of the growroom.
eBUD
New Member
I used the baking poder solution and kept mine under controll very well. Cleaning your grow area is a must.
Yes, using a mild soultion of Hydrogen Peroxide and H20 to only manage the White Powdery mold on the leaves> This only manages it> it spread like wild fire though to al my plants>
I upped my Hydrated Lime in my beds by 2 lbs per 100 sq ft, this last time and this last harvest a week ago had zero signs of any White Powdery Mold thru the Veg stage and flower stages> Same plants, Different Mothers>
I upped my Hydrated Lime in my beds by 2 lbs per 100 sq ft, this last time and this last harvest a week ago had zero signs of any White Powdery Mold thru the Veg stage and flower stages> Same plants, Different Mothers>
flyfishinrock
New Member
^^^ hmmmm very interesting Cherma, gonna file that away in the old memory banks. Differnt mothers though, curious did you change any environmental factors, or feed less nitrogen?
How do you wash that sh%* off your mylar eBUD? I've been trying for a few months, think I gotta replace it all. If you look at my grow, that nasty white stuff on my mylar is a mild baking soda solution I've been tryin to scrub off.
How do you wash that sh%* off your mylar eBUD? I've been trying for a few months, think I gotta replace it all. If you look at my grow, that nasty white stuff on my mylar is a mild baking soda solution I've been tryin to scrub off.
eBUD
New Member
I usually try to wipe it off while its still a lil wet so it doesnt get caked on. I had the same problem am just rolled out and bought some more mylar and tacked it up. At my work we discard sheets of mylar when some parts come shipped in on the freight trucks. Dont know if its wrapped from heat or light but i can get some free mylar every now and then.
PS i work in a warehouse
PS i work in a warehouse
kickstart
New Member
I too have had a bout of powdery mildew on this run. I have been considering using a product called "Green Cure" but not sure how it works. It has an organic certification. Anyone heard of it?
Racefan
Well-Known Member
That mylar cleaning problem is why I use astrofoil. Better known as mylar covered bubble wrap. it's sturdier and a lot easier to clean as it's next to impossible to tear. Most places sell it as a water heater covering to keep heat in.
kickstart
New Member
I have been using Tyvek for years. Waterproof, durable, and very reflective (flat white). I put the blank side in towards the room. The initial investment is a bit high ($155.87 for a 9'x150' roll, or a generic product called EZ Guard at $94.00 for 9'x150' roll), but one could pitch in with a friend or two and split a roll up. I just staple it to the walls and ceiling. The only time I have had to replace it is when moving or when working on the walls (cutting vents, doors, etc.). Both can be found at a Home Depot or Jerry's, etc. in the insulation department (they are considered house wraps).
Tyvek as a house wrap/ vapor barrier,for all types of construction can be a mold resistant barrier when applied correctly. However, Tyvek does allow in moisture more than another brand called Typar, same size rolls, same price Try the following experiment with it and see which of the 2 house wraps would do you better to repel moisture.
On a flat surface take one 6"x6" piece of each Typar and Tyvek, take 2 8oz glasses of water and pour onto surface of each brand. Wait 1 minute, 2minutes, 5 minutes, or more, and see which brand has allowed all the water to soak thru it.
Jerry's in Eugene?
On a flat surface take one 6"x6" piece of each Typar and Tyvek, take 2 8oz glasses of water and pour onto surface of each brand. Wait 1 minute, 2minutes, 5 minutes, or more, and see which brand has allowed all the water to soak thru it.
Jerry's in Eugene?
kickstart
New Member
Yup, Eugene... LOL! Hi there (former local?). You're right about the barrier, but I am actually talking about using it inside for a reflective material that is a bit more durable than mylar. But true, applied where you are supposed to (under the siding), either product my be used as a moisture barrier and a mold barrier. I suppose in Hawaii you have to worry about that stuff like we do...
NE14AJ
New Member
all i got to say is i have some of the nicest tric covered GC plants that have been trouble free untill this #$%& ^^^^*(( ^%&** mold i am a moth away from some insane meds , these girls smell 20 feet outside my place when i forget to turn on my filter, there has to be some science to deal with this , if there is not somebody needs to figure it out because this is a multi million dollar issue that i would gladly pay 50$-100$ bucks to save a couple 3000$ medical plants , i m going to try the H2o2 it seems to be the best option due to it will leave the least behind , i was sitting here thinking what i havent cleaned , fan blades is what i haven't cleaned , im ending this to go do now
please any mad scientist out there please info on a fix , and if your ever in so call i will bust out my keif and we can crank up my THX sound system and 50 gigs of the best collection of tunes you have ever seen ,
please any mad scientist out there please info on a fix , and if your ever in so call i will bust out my keif and we can crank up my THX sound system and 50 gigs of the best collection of tunes you have ever seen ,
As someone else pointed out you cannot get rid of PM inside the plant you can only treat the outbreak on the outside. A natural product called Serenade works well. It makes the plants smell like yeast for a couple of days but it knocks out the PM. Another non-chemical remedy is to spray the foliage with water containing 10% non-fat milk. It dries leaving no odors and cleans up the PM.
