Ask Me Anything - Autoflowering (Royal Queen Seeds)

Royal Queen Seeds

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Hey there, growmies!

Ever wondered if you can clone your auto-flowering plants? Or if it’s better to grow them outdoors or indoors? What’s the best light cycle? 😵‍💫

Stop searching for answers—we’re here to shed some light! While growing cannabis isn’t exactly rocket science, we’ve spent years studying these plants and can proudly say we’re experts in the field. 😜

So, take advantage of our expertise and ask us any questions or concerns you have about autoflowering!

And if you have answers or opinions on any of these topics, don’t be shy—drop a comment below! 😎

All knowledge is more than welcome!
 
Hey there, growmies!

Ever wondered if you can clone your auto-flowering plants? Or if it’s better to grow them outdoors or indoors? What’s the best light cycle? 😵‍💫

Stop searching for answers—we’re here to shed some light! While growing cannabis isn’t exactly rocket science, we’ve spent years studying these plants and can proudly say we’re experts in the field. 😜

So, take advantage of our expertise and ask us any questions or concerns you have about autoflowering!

And if you have answers or opinions on any of these topics, don’t be shy—drop a comment below! 😎

All knowledge is more than welcome!
I'll start with a couple common questions I get from new members.

1- do autos eat the same volume of nutrients as a photo?
2- does uppotting stunt autos?
3- Is 20/4 the best light cycle for autos?

Let's start with those questions and see what everyone else asks.
Thanks for this @Royal Queen Seeds :thanks:
Love your strains.


Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
I've only grown one auto, it was a so different from what I was used to and didn't have much success. I'd really like to try again for my winter grow. if someone could point to a info thread about autos that b helpful
Check @Jons journals.
He can grow autos better than anyone I've seen.
No word from @Royal Queen Seeds yet on my questions.
They must be busy. :Namaste:
Soon buddy :passitleft:



Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
I'll start with a couple common questions I get from new members.

1- do autos eat the same volume of nutrients as a photo?
2- does uppotting stunt autos?
3- Is 20/4 the best light cycle for autos?

Let's start with those questions and see what everyone else asks.
Thanks for this @Royal Queen Seeds :thanks:
Love your strains.


Stay safe
Bill284 😎
Hello, Bill!

Thank you for your questions, buddy 🙌. Here are my thoughts on them:

1- do autos eat the same volume of nutrients as a photo?

Do we talk about volume or concentration ?

If we talk about volume/quantity used. Non-Photoperiod are supposed to have a shorter cycle than photoperiodic strain, therefore it is supposed to require less nutrient in total.

If we talk about concentration : I don't think all photoperiod strains need the same amount of nutrients.
Therefore, I think it is more strain related (photo and autos) when talking about the concentration (level of EC) for genetics. For exemple our F1 Hybrid (Orion or Medusa) can take very high level (1200umol) of light can take very high level of EC. On the other hand, our Royal Dwarf will not accept as much light and as much nutrients.


2- does uppotting stunt autos?

Uppotting : tranpslant ?
Stunt : Stun --> Stress ?

Of course, it will stun every plant. It creates a shock, a stress and the plant will need to recover before going back to maximum photosyntesis level (Autos and Photos ).

Usually, transplant is done in vegetative stage. So, the plant can recover in this vegetative stage (the plant has more trouble to recover in flowering time)

But the thing is that the autos have 70-100 days for their life cycle, so they tend to produce less as you have removed (recovery time) some of life time that was limited

I usually advice to start the first 14 days in a 1L pot size and transplant or straight in the final pots. It really depends about your skills and your methodology.

3- Is 20/4 the best light cycle for autos?

When talking about "best" it is hard to answer. As the most important aspect of photosynthesis is the DLI : DAILY LIGHT INPUT
Basically DLI is how much light your plant can take in a day (the final quantity).

Therefore, you can reach the same result of DLI with different method:
Less time of exposure but more intensity.
More time of exposure at a lower intensity

For my part I would rather run autos in 20/4 to lower the efforts I am putting on my equipment (more light = more heat = more energy spent to control my climate = cost me more) . The plants will work longer but slower!

Hope this helps!!
 
Hello, Bill!

Thank you for your questions, buddy 🙌. Here are my thoughts on them:

1- do autos eat the same volume of nutrients as a photo?

Do we talk about volume or concentration ?

If we talk about volume/quantity used. Non-Photoperiod are supposed to have a shorter cycle than photoperiodic strain, therefore it is supposed to require less nutrient in total.

If we talk about concentration : I don't think all photoperiod strains need the same amount of nutrients.
Therefore, I think it is more strain related (photo and autos) when talking about the concentration (level of EC) for genetics. For exemple our F1 Hybrid (Orion or Medusa) can take very high level (1200umol) of light can take very high level of EC. On the other hand, our Royal Dwarf will not accept as much light and as much nutrients.


2- does uppotting stunt autos?

Uppotting : tranpslant ?
Stunt : Stun --> Stress ?

Of course, it will stun every plant. It creates a shock, a stress and the plant will need to recover before going back to maximum photosyntesis level (Autos and Photos ).

Usually, transplant is done in vegetative stage. So, the plant can recover in this vegetative stage (the plant has more trouble to recover in flowering time)

But the thing is that the autos have 70-100 days for their life cycle, so they tend to produce less as you have removed (recovery time) some of life time that was limited

I usually advice to start the first 14 days in a 1L pot size and transplant or straight in the final pots. It really depends about your skills and your methodology.

3- Is 20/4 the best light cycle for autos?

When talking about "best" it is hard to answer. As the most important aspect of photosynthesis is the DLI : DAILY LIGHT INPUT
Basically DLI is how much light your plant can take in a day (the final quantity).

Therefore, you can reach the same result of DLI with different method:
Less time of exposure but more intensity.
More time of exposure at a lower intensity

For my part I would rather run autos in 20/4 to lower the efforts I am putting on my equipment (more light = more heat = more energy spent to control my climate = cost me more) . The plants will work longer but slower!

Hope this helps!!
Thanks @Royal Queen Seeds :thanks:
I appreciate you taking the time to help us all.:high-five:
Love your strains. :love:


Stay safe
Bill284 😎
 
Hello, Bill!

Thank you for your questions, buddy 🙌. Here are my thoughts on them:

1- do autos eat the same volume of nutrients as a photo?

Do we talk about volume or concentration ?

If we talk about volume/quantity used. Non-Photoperiod are supposed to have a shorter cycle than photoperiodic strain, therefore it is supposed to require less nutrient in total.

If we talk about concentration : I don't think all photoperiod strains need the same amount of nutrients.
Therefore, I think it is more strain related (photo and autos) when talking about the concentration (level of EC) for genetics. For exemple our F1 Hybrid (Orion or Medusa) can take very high level (1200umol) of light can take very high level of EC. On the other hand, our Royal Dwarf will not accept as much light and as much nutrients.


2- does uppotting stunt autos?

Uppotting : tranpslant ?
Stunt : Stun --> Stress ?

Of course, it will stun every plant. It creates a shock, a stress and the plant will need to recover before going back to maximum photosyntesis level (Autos and Photos ).

Usually, transplant is done in vegetative stage. So, the plant can recover in this vegetative stage (the plant has more trouble to recover in flowering time)

But the thing is that the autos have 70-100 days for their life cycle, so they tend to produce less as you have removed (recovery time) some of life time that was limited

I usually advice to start the first 14 days in a 1L pot size and transplant or straight in the final pots. It really depends about your skills and your methodology.

3- Is 20/4 the best light cycle for autos?

When talking about "best" it is hard to answer. As the most important aspect of photosynthesis is the DLI : DAILY LIGHT INPUT
Basically DLI is how much light your plant can take in a day (the final quantity).

Therefore, you can reach the same result of DLI with different method:
Less time of exposure but more intensity.
More time of exposure at a lower intensity

For my part I would rather run autos in 20/4 to lower the efforts I am putting on my equipment (more light = more heat = more energy spent to control my climate = cost me more) . The plants will work longer but slower!

Hope this helps!!
Can the start of flower be manipulated at all, ie to make it flower sooner or to delay flowering, or is it set in stone whatever you do?
 
Can the start of flower be manipulated at all, ie to make it flower sooner or to delay flowering, or is it set in stone whatever you do?
Hey Roy!

Thank you for your question ;)

For Autos, flowering starts automatically, based on age. It can’t be manipulated. Plants will start developing flowers as soon as they feel. Depending on the cross and the amount of ruderalis in the mix, plants can start flowering after 2 weeks of veg or to almost 5 weeks of veg 🌱
 
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