12'x13' Flower Room Help?

[slider11111]

I currently have a 600hps and a 1000hps with vented hoods. I will purchase either another 600 or 1000? I will use 3 ebb and flow tables. The room has central air. Outside temps run from 0 in the winter to 100 in the summer. I will run a passive vent from an adjoining hallway and duct through all three hoods and then into the attic. I will also have another fan to exchange the air in the room with a scrubber again venting into the attic.

Questions
1. What size fan for the hoods?
2. What size fan for exchanging the room air?
3. Or can I run filter>hood>hood>hood>fan>exhaust to attic? (Filter in grow to also exchange air,so only one fan.)
4. I am guessing I will need to run 220 into the room also? It will be tough to run wires because its upstairs and in a finished home?
5. Thoughts on wiring? I have Lumatec Digital Ballasts.
6. Can all the hoods be 6 inch?
Thanx

 

[Vapedogg223]

I currently have a 600hps and a 1000hps with vented hoods. I will purchase either another 600 or 1000? I will use 3 ebb and flow tables. The room has central air. Outside temps run from 0 in the winter to 100 in the summer. I will run a passive vent from an adjoining hallway and duct through all three hoods and then into the attic. I will also have another fan to exchange the air in the room with a scrubber again venting into the attic.

Questions
1. What size fan for the hoods?
2. What size fan for exchanging the room air?
3. Or can I run filter>hood>hood>hood>fan>exhaust to attic? (Filter in grow to also exchange air,so only one fan.)
4. I am guessing I will need to run 220 into the room also? It will be tough to run wires because its upstairs and in a finished home?
5. Thoughts on wiring? I have Lumatec Digital Ballasts.
6. Can all the hoods be 6 inch?
Thanx

Hey slider... to 420 Magazine!

The current standard is 6" ducting and fan for cooling up to 2 hoods and 8" ducting and fan for 3 (maybe 4?) hoods. This is also somewhat dependent on the length of of the ducting as well. All your hoods should have an 8" opening so as not to restrict the airflow. Do a little research and purchase the best inline fan you can...you'll be glad you did years from now.

I've been running filter/fan/hood/exhaust...and it seems to work well. You'll always want to push the air through your hood with that setup though, for two reasons. First, if the hoods don't seal completely you can pull unfiltered room air into the air stream, and second you can over heat your fan running it after the lights...most (if not all) fans have a thermal shutoff that will shut down the fan off to protect it if that occurs, but then your girls will roast!

For three ballasts, one 240v 20 amp circuit should suffice, but check the ratings on your ballasts... as long as you stagger the start-up times you should be okay. How difficult it will be to run the electrical is going to depend on a lot of things (age of the house, etc.). Are there any chaseways for the A/C ducting you could use to get the wire from the basement to the attic?

 

[slider11111]

Thanx for the reply. So run only 8 inch hoods x3 and an 8 inch fan blowing into the hoods? around 700cfm? I guess I can use my 6 inch hood for veg. What about exchanging the room air? Will a 6 inch in say 400-500cfm work? Any recommendation on fans?

 

[Vapedogg223]

Thanx for the reply. So run only 8 inch hoods x3 and an 8 inch fan blowing into the hoods? around 700cfm? I guess I can use my 6 inch hood for veg. What about exchanging the room air? Will a 6 inch in say 400-500cfm work? Any recommendation on fans?

If you run filter/fan/hoods/exhaust from within the room all you'll need is a passive vent for fresh air to get into the room...you had said you had central A/C, so between you're register and what comes in under the door etc. That's probably all you'd need, or you could still put in the passive vent through to the hallway, but the one fan should take care of everything.

If you wanted to cool the hoods with air from outside the room then yes, you could add the second fan to change the room air...if you did that a 6" would probably be enough. A room 8'x10' with a 9' ceiling is 720 cubic feet so you would be changing the air every 1 1/2 - 2 hours. Just remember, you aren't going to be able to pull the full rated CFM through a carbon filter, every filter, bend, etc. increases the static pressure in the duct which means you'll move less CFM.

If you plan to cool the hoods with air from outside the room, that would also allow for much easier CO2 enrichment...if you wanted to go that route. You could seal up the room and have your 6" fan and carbon filter scrubbing, and as long as the central air can keep up with the radiant heat from the lights/ballasts you're good to go...you could always add a portable A/C or window unit if not.

If you aren't planning CO2 enrichment I'd seriously consider using the filtered room air to cool the hoods and just cut the extra passive vent if necessary.

Fan recommendations are tough...and not all CFM ratings are accurate...Can-Fans and their Max-Fans seem to be very high quality and beat out many fans rated for the same CFM rating, but they are also more expensive. I use a Vortex right now, and have been happy with it, but there are some examples you can find on the internet of a Valueline fan out performing Vortex...so who really knows which is better?

I'm redoing my room right now, and will probably end up using Max-Fans because they also draw less power and are quieter moving the same amount of air because of their mixed flow design. I was just looking on their website, and I see they just added a new 8" HO Max-Fan rated at 932 CFM and it comes with a 3 speed controller...I don't know too much about it yet, but it might be worth looking at.

 

[slider11111]

Well I guess I could set every thing up filter>fan> hoods. Then turn on the lights and see what the room temps are. It's upstairs but gets pretty good cold air from the register. I thought if I need to I could place a register fan in the register in this room and pull in a little more cold air? Close a few others registers if need be. If it doesn't work cut a hole in the wall out into the hallway. Same with the passive vent. But it would be nice not to cut vent holes if later I did decide to run C02 and have a sealed room. That way I could get away with a little more heat in the room. I have decided to go with your recommendation and use all 8 inch hoods. (Blockbusters) And a Sunleaves WindTunnel 8 inch fan for the hoods. Thanx for the help

8 Inch Wind Tunnel Fan, By SunLeaves- TEST & REVIEW - YouTube

 

[slider11111]

I have been beating my head on the wall about running 240 into this room. (Without running it outside of the house and then into the room.) I checked the outlets in the room and each side is on a 15 amp breaker? Now if I just cut a hole in the closet I can tap into the back bedroom outlet and have 3 separate 15 amp breakers tied into the same room!!! So I can run each light on a separate breaker. (althou it's 120)

 

[Vapedogg223]

I like the Blockbusters...I think they are one of the best air-cooled hoods for a conventional 3x3 or 4x4 footprint. I'm not familiar with that fan...but you'll know quickly if it does the job. I'm betting it will be just fine.

I have been beating my head on the wall about running 240 into this room. (Without running it outside of the house and then into the room.) I checked the outlets in the room and each side is on a 15 amp breaker? Now if I just cut a hole in the closet I can tap into the back bedroom outlet and have 3 separate 15 amp breakers tied into the same room!!! So I can run each light on a separate breaker. (althou it's 120)

You could run it outside the house...just run it in a PVC conduit. But I think if I were going that route I'd install a 50 amp sub panel on the second floor for future projects.

Those outlets/circuits should run the room fine as long as you don't need supplemental heating, A/C, or humidity control...in fact I was just looking, and the info I just found list's the 1k Lumatek draw as 8.33 amps and ~5 amps at the 600w setting. Just remember, the continuous draw on an electrical circuit is supposed to be 80% of what it's rated for...this means no more than 12 amps continuous on a 15 amp circuit and 15 amps continuous on a 20 amp circuit. I know plenty of people push it until the breaker trips...then unplug something...not really recommended if safety is a concern...which it should be. You might also want to change out the outlets or breakers to GFCI models, since you'll be working with water around electrical equipment. If you're using Lumateks they run just just as well on 120v as they do on 240v...not all brands do...

 

[slider11111]

Yea I was giving the 1000's 9 amps and the 600 6 amps to be safe. A Hood cooling fan and an exhaust fan at .5 amps apiece. One or two Oscillating fans, 3 bubblers and 3 400gpm water pumps. Also a small humidifier. Hopefully the central air conditioner will suffice. There will be no issues with the heat.