12 week old plant in veg

OzbudboY

Well-Known Member
I was wondering what was happening here. There's quite a lot of tips overlapping now. Is it trying to flower?
It's like it has many nodes with no spaces in between
IMG_20160101_140817156.jpg
IMG_20160101_140821449.jpg


This is the whole plant
IMG_20160101_141027721.jpg
 
LOL

What you are describing is the preferred physiology. Closer nodes means more flowers. If you back off the nutes to stop that nute burn you may get a fantastic yield.
 
You know i'm confused on the nutes, I'm following the instructions from the sticky(in the forums) for general hydroponics but end up burning them each time. The instructions on the bottle will probably burn them too. The ppm's is at 1150...I'm done with ppm...What should the ec be? I think I;m at 1.7
 
EC and PPM are just like Fahrenheit and Celsius. They measure the same thing. Well in fact a PPM meter measures EC and converts it to PPM for you.


Nutes are not plant food. Light is plant food and photosynthesis is used to turn light into what the plant needs for growth. Nutes support the the results of photosynthesis and allow the results to be utilized correctly. Just like your vitamin pills are not food. You can take them all day long and if you don't eat food you wont live long.

So the point is the nute concentration is really a function of the level of photosynthesis going on in your grow space. If you have a high level of photosynthesis then you need more nutes. That is why the nutes ramp up as the plant gets bigger...because you have more fan leaves and more photosynthesis.

So the reason all that matters is the label on the bottle is only so big. Some bottles have more than one concentration listed for early, mid and late stage growth. Many have only one concentration listed. Whatever it is it is a concentration for a professional level grow using the best lighting in optimal conditions. They do not have room on the label for every kind of situation and they wont put on there what is good for a 4 ft closet grow with poor ventilation running on CFLs.

So you have to be a bit rational about your grow setup as compared to a pro with the best equipment and experience. You probably have less photosynthesis going on then the bottle is trying to recommend.

The window is very wide so if you are seeing burn you can cut it in half and will be fine. It is always better to ride closer to the bottom of this range. Compensating for a minor deficiency is easy. Burn will stop the growth right there.

savvy?
 
EC and PPM are just like Fahrenheit and Celsius. They measure the same thing. Well in fact a PPM meter measures EC and converts it to PPM for you.


Nutes are not plant food. Light is plant food and photosynthesis is used to turn light into what the plant needs for growth. Nutes support the the results of photosynthesis and allow the results to be utilized correctly. Just like your vitamin pills are not food. You can take them all day long and if you don't eat food you wont live long.

So the point is the nute concentration is really a function of the level of photosynthesis going on in your grow space. If you have a high level of photosynthesis then you need more nutes. That is why the nutes ramp up as the plant gets bigger...because you have more fan leaves and more photosynthesis.

So the reason all that matters is the label on the bottle is only so big. Some bottles have more than one concentration listed for early, mid and late stage growth. Many have only one concentration listed. Whatever it is it is a concentration for a professional level grow using the best lighting in optimal conditions. They do not have room on the label for every kind of situation and they wont put on there what is good for a 4 ft closet grow with poor ventilation running on CFLs.

So you have to be a bit rational about your grow setup as compared to a pro with the best equipment and experience. You probably have less photosynthesis going on then the bottle is trying to recommend.

The window is very wide so if you are seeing burn you can cut it in half and will be fine. It is always better to ride closer to the bottom of this range. Compensating for a minor deficiency is easy. Burn will stop the growth right there.

savvy?

Yes, that makes more sense...I defoliate a lot. So that means less photosynthesis - less nutes required. That also explains why when i dont cut the leaves for a couple of weeks they drink lots more.
 
Yes this is WHY defoliation is an advanced technique not to be done by newbs. Anyone can remove leaves carefully and do just the right amount. The problem is adjusting your grow to manage the stress and not burn things.
 
Yes this is WHY defoliation is an advanced technique not to be done by newbs. Anyone can remove leaves carefully and do just the right amount. The problem is adjusting your grow to manage the stress and not burn things.

Hmmm, interesting. Thanks Villiage, very informative.

I've always been one to learn the hard way.
 
There is a lot of debate about defoliation and this is thee root of it. In the end if done correctly it takes a bit longer to get to harvest when defoliating...like a lot more...in some cases an extra month. So if it takes you 1 month longer to get there you better be increasing your yields by more than 1/3 otherwise it is a waste because you could have done 1 more grow that year. There is no doubt that when done correctly (and it is easy to screw it up) that defoliating can increase yield. The issue is at then end of it you took longer to get the plant to harvest. So did you actually gain anything?

And the only way to get even close to doing it in a way that is going to be worth it is doing it in a way where you keep it from stunting and optimize the photosynthesis of what you do have. That is hard to do without screwing it all up if you keep taking off the fan leaves. IF you are close to burn and then remove 15% of the leaves doing all the work then your ppms are at burn levels immediately. If you in any way slow down or stunt them in the process you have just ruined your chance of it being worth doing. You should have just done a SCROG and tucked.


Now I don't grow perpetually. I grow just a few times a year for myself. So I don't mind taking a few extra weeks to fill in a fat scrog. But if you are running perpetual or running fast turn 3 month grows you may not see a real gain by doing it in the final tally adding up many grows.

Almost everyone does a bit of minor trimming...I aint talking about that. I am talking about the actual technique of "Defoliation" which you appear to not actually be doing.


Increasing yield with defoliation indoors - What's it mean? How to do it?
 
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