my growing experiences

Our lollipopping strategy begins by dividing the plant horizontally into three even sections. We will then lollipop the bottom third of the plant one week before flipping to Transition.

For the first part of our "Bowling" strategy, we defoliate all the fan leaves on the inside of the plant, but we leave all the fan leaves on the outside of the plant. The second part of our "Bowling" strategy is to top all the nodes of the plant at once.

Since we water by hand in the Dagobah Frost Forest, Lane 3 & Lane 2 side branches are attached to clips instead of bamboo posts. This gives us more room to fertigate with our watering can.

Since Lane 5 & Lane 4 are naturally perpendicular, we place 4 bamboo posts around the edges of the pots, and then attach the Lane 5 & Lane 4 side branches to them. Using more bamboo posts may make it harder to water by hand.

We are currently looking into two strategies for initial topping. That is, we plan to start topping plants high above the 6th node or high above the 7th node. Topping is a very important process that directly relates to the total amount of flower at harvest.

The final pot size is dependent on our desired plant size and our desired fertigation schedule. Larger final pots typically allow for larger plants and an increased number of fetigations per day.

The overall goal of intermediate transplants is to establish a strong & robust root system that is evenly spaced both horizontally and vertically Growing a large even root mass is critical to developing a wide primary trunk which will support large side branches & buds.

Packing all of your pots identically is very key to keeping your room on the same watering schedule. We always properly rinse and prepare our coco & perlite.

Consistent sized clones are key. We want to bury a growth node about 2.5 cm (1.0") deep into the medium because it facilitates faster root growth.

Node 7 side branches are not tied down.

Node 6 side branches are not tied down.

Node 2, Node 3, Node 4 and Node 5 are tied down using equally spaced octants. There are 45 degree angles between the Node 2, Node 3, Node 4 and Node 5 side branches when looking down on the plant.

Currently, we are a few weeks away from flipping to 12-12, so we choose to open the growth nodes to light and air using heavy defoliation of the fan leaves. With defoliation, we are looking down into the plant and removing fan leaves which block lower growth nodes.

We allow our plants at least 1 week recovery time before flipping to 12-12.

A few weeks before flipping to 12-12, we choose to open the growth nodes to light and air using heavy defoliation of the fan leaves. We also choose to top many of the side branches which are in the top third of the plant.

We want to find the sweet spot under our light. Note: We define the sweet spot as the point under our light where the peak of the Peyote WiFi cola will be getting around 45k LUX with temperatures no higher than 25°C (77°F).

When we measure from the "Top of the Soil" in our pot to the "Sweet Spot", we find that the "Maximum Plant Height" for our Peyote WiFis is going to be 120 cm (48"). Recall, that if we exceed this value we will be in an overgrow situation.

We want to find the sweet spot under our light. Note: We define the sweet spot as the point under our light where the peak of the Peyote WiFi cola will be getting around 45k LUX with temperatures no higher than 25°C (77°F).

We begin by raising our Mars Hydro TSL 2000 light to the top of the tent.

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