Restricted Grow Space? Learn how to stunt your plant, The Healthy Way!

Restricting growth early on by the use of small pots is widely seen in the Bonsai art of growing. Basically getting a plant mature at a very small size. They also use forms LST and HST to achieve this, BUT the key thing in getting a miniature bonsai tree to stay miniature is pot size. All successful bonsai plants are never really started off in big pots, they are usually small and shallow as roots tend to grow DOWNWARD.

Restricting this downward growth in turn restricts its vertical growth. Now it takes years to achieve this bonsai with regular plants, but with cannabis you can cut corners as it's a weed.

Here is what a traditional Bonsai Plant looks like:

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If you do an internet image search for "bonsai", you will notice that they all have ONE thing in common: a small pot size!

Basically what I am saying is, a smaller pot size won't necessarily prevent growth from happening, it will just slow it down as cannabis is a fighting species, it's a WEED!

For example if you were to start off in solo cups, you could still get a plant that could reach 1-2 feet in height without any form of training. Now growers who start their seedlings in their FINAL pots have the disadvantage of this type of control. Given the available root space , they have the ability exceed whatever the 'height-to-pot size' ratio is.

SAMPLE EXPERIMENT

Once again, I conducted multiple experiments on these lucky bagseeds that I had at my disposal :)

I planned on transplanting all 3 of the bagseed into ½ gallon containers from 1 pint clay pots they were in.

I had planted the weakest (shortest and slowest growth) into a ½ gallon container a couple days before.

The pictures below show the size of the weakest bagseed plant compared to the biggest of the 3 bagseed that was just recently transplanted. NOTE that these plants were transplanted 6 days a part

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This shows nearly 2 inches difference in growth (width-wise) from 1pint to ½ gallon containers in 6 days. Exponentially, the rate of growth of the ‘weakest bagseed’ would have far superseded its mates.

Although I did not record height, the transplanted bagseed was taller, this was all due to more vigorous growing with the available space for roots.

APPLICATION

Now in order to gain the most benefits out of this technique, one should start of in the smallest container viable for growing. But lets not get too ridiculous about this now! Be logical. If you have under less than a square foot of space to work with, I would start off in 1 pint containers, as I did.

Now I would get my hands on multiple size containers that increase in size incrementally. The more variety in size you have at your disposal, the more control you will gain in overall plant size.

As for transplanting, don't worry here as soil is also forgiving about this. The soil holds the root mass together and whatever doesn't make it get decomposed back into the soil. I have ripped roots all the time to no ill affect, they will bounce back.

Now the problems with transplanting start to arise when a grower transplants in the middle of a deficiency or lockout. THIS could be fatal and cause the plant to completely halt growth until equilibrium is reached with available nutrients the plant can uptake.

Which now leads me to my next entry: "Common Deficiencies for the Average Hydro Grower: and how to spot them before they escalate!"

Once again, Good Luck to all ;)

Comments

From reading this site, I see that a few growers also "pinch' choice locations of stems to hinder vertical growth. If I understood correctly, they pinch a stem as if to super crop, but that's it, no bending. Have you tried this?
 
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>>>From reading this site, I see that a few growers also "pinch' choice locations of stems to hinder vertical growth. If I understood correctly, they pinch a stem as if to super crop, but that's it, no bending. Have you tried this?

In fact yes, I did on the Bubb. By 'pinching' the stem of a growing branch, it did slow down its growth for a while, but as soon as it healed (about 2 weeks) it was growing at the same rate as the rest of the plant. The main benefit of 'pinching' the stem, in my eyes, is to create a thicker circumference and a stronger support. As for restricting height, however, 'pinching' and 'bending' (essentially super-cropping) would be necessary to completely make use of a small space.

Here is a pic of a branch I 'pinched' back in vegetative growth. Now it is 2 weeks into flower, and is a main top on the surface of my trellis:

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So in short, pot size is a way to stunt growth for the whole plant and pinching is a way to stunt growth temporarily for a single branch?
 
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Great write ups, AG. + reps for you.

I wish I could show you some flowers I was growing this summer. I planted seeds in those seed starter things and then didn't transplant them up to a bigger pot. I just kept watering them every day. After about a month, they were 18" tall, the nodes were WAY far apart, and they were growing straight up, no branching at all. Super stretchy and lanky.

Your pictures show that starving them of pot size definitely slows them down. Another way to slow plants down in veg is to water them with only tap water. Think about how slow your house plants grow :) So for your theory, if you want to simply keep a certain strain ALIVE, I like it. I don't care about keeping multiple strains around for a rainy day, so I haven't had to use this technique yet.

For situations where you need to control height and delay flowering, I like to prune during vegetative growth. When I say prune, I mean taking 6" cuts off at a time. This keeps the plant short but more healthy. Nodes stay closer together, and the stem keeps getting thicker, creating a superhighway for nutrients. It does increase yield, over a non pruned plant of similar size.

Sure wish I had 10' ceilings to work with.

 
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