There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult as some "authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days. SPROUTING The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms.
The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75 degrees. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun- tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see thesoil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will needsh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however, the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches.They may be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a cluster of white hairs. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 12 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new flowough a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools
SYMPTOM
PROBLEM
CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow smaller leaves still green.
Nitrogen dificiency
add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibaly with a purple cast.
Phosphorsus dificiency
add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
Magnesium dificiency
add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark grey.
Potassium dificiency
add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue
Boron dificiency
add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yelloish vein systems.
Zinc dificiency
add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibaly yellowing.
Molybedum dificiency
use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it.
GENERAL GROWING INFO
Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances. Marijuana can reach a hight of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature.
Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang aroung, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.
SEEDS
To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shiriveled up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they "CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2" deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days. SPROUTING The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms.
The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting. When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing/transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours befor sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.
OUTDOORS
Contrary to propular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75 degrees. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat.
Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encoun- tered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop.
There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see thesoil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about one week. The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probally a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.
INDOOR GROWING
Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop "found," you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good" plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN! If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will needsh air, so the room must be ventilated. (however, the fresh air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke.)
At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality. The walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or one plant per two feet of flouresent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches.They may be mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "gro lux" types).
HARVESTING AND DRYING
The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a cluster of white hairs. If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick.
In some nefarious Middle Eastren countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leavs. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle sheld of the oven, which is set on "broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out.
TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF
There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants: You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 12 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increse the resin a bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower, right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new flowough a lab of some sort and costs about $35 a gram.)
To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a posion in larger quanities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) bacause of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could recive form smoaking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.
Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficuly to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produve so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.
PLANT PROBLEM CHART
Always check the overall enviromental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil aroung 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools
SYMPTOM
PROBLEM
CURE
Larger leaves turning yellow smaller leaves still green.
Nitrogen dificiency
add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.
Older leaves will curl at edges, turn dark, possibaly with a purple cast.
Phosphorsus dificiency
add commercial phosphate.
Mature leaves develop a yellowish cast to least veinal areas.
Magnesium dificiency
add commercial fertilizer with a magnesium content.
Mature leaves turn yellow and then become spotted with edge areas turning dark grey.
Potassium dificiency
add muriate of potash.
Cracked stems, no healthy support tissue
Boron dificiency
add any plant food containing boron.
Small wrinkled leaves with yelloish vein systems.
Zinc dificiency
add commercial plant food containing zinc.
Young leaves become deformed, possibaly yellowing.
Molybedum dificiency
use any plant food with a bit of molydbenum in it.
